Adjusting rear Toe-in
Discussion
After having an unsuccessful attempt at a local 4-wheel alignment specialist at getting my rear toe in adjusted (T350C) I was wondering if they had attempted it correctly or not ?
They had dropped the toe in wishbone bush out of the chassis, undid the large locknut and attempted to rotate bush/stud into/out of the wishbone but claimed it was seized (even after heat)? is this the correct way? it appeared to be very well greased but this could be just outside not inner threads.
If this is the correct way then it would appear to require adjustment via increments of one 1/2 turn of the bush (ie to allow bolt to chassis fitting) if so what amount of degrees/minutes/mm of toe adjustment does this normally give.
Also if seized is this a lost cause (new wishbone +bush adjuster) (ie due to heat damgage and distortion to wishbone likely due to forces needed) or is it suck and see....
Luckily the amount the toe is out is livable but not ideal.
They had dropped the toe in wishbone bush out of the chassis, undid the large locknut and attempted to rotate bush/stud into/out of the wishbone but claimed it was seized (even after heat)? is this the correct way? it appeared to be very well greased but this could be just outside not inner threads.
If this is the correct way then it would appear to require adjustment via increments of one 1/2 turn of the bush (ie to allow bolt to chassis fitting) if so what amount of degrees/minutes/mm of toe adjustment does this normally give.
Also if seized is this a lost cause (new wishbone +bush adjuster) (ie due to heat damgage and distortion to wishbone likely due to forces needed) or is it suck and see....
Luckily the amount the toe is out is livable but not ideal.
IainMac said:
After having an unsuccessful attempt at a local 4-wheel alignment specialist at getting my rear toe in adjusted (T350C) I was wondering if they had attempted it correctly or not ?
They had dropped the toe in wishbone bush out of the chassis, undid the large locknut and attempted to rotate bush/stud into/out of the wishbone but claimed it was seized (even after heat)? is this the correct way? it appeared to be very well greased but this could be just outside not inner threads.
If this is the correct way then it would appear to require adjustment via increments of one 1/2 turn of the bush (ie to allow bolt to chassis fitting) if so what amount of degrees/minutes/mm of toe adjustment does this normally give.
Also if seized is this a lost cause (new wishbone +bush adjuster) (ie due to heat damgage and distortion to wishbone likely due to forces needed) or is it suck and see....
Luckily the amount the toe is out is livable but not ideal.
They had dropped the toe in wishbone bush out of the chassis, undid the large locknut and attempted to rotate bush/stud into/out of the wishbone but claimed it was seized (even after heat)? is this the correct way? it appeared to be very well greased but this could be just outside not inner threads.
If this is the correct way then it would appear to require adjustment via increments of one 1/2 turn of the bush (ie to allow bolt to chassis fitting) if so what amount of degrees/minutes/mm of toe adjustment does this normally give.
Also if seized is this a lost cause (new wishbone +bush adjuster) (ie due to heat damgage and distortion to wishbone likely due to forces needed) or is it suck and see....
Luckily the amount the toe is out is livable but not ideal.
Toe-out on a T350 gives unpleasantly sharp turn-in! Need at least a little toe-in of 1/2 to 1mm at the wheel rim for road use. After some experimenting & measurements I found that 1/4 turn of the adjuster (about a 22mm size bolt with one flat each side) = 1mm of toe. Not come across a seized adjuster so can't advise on that, mine adjusts ok in situ without removal.
IainMac said:
Latest factory spec for T350 was
Chassis Settings
K.P.I 5°
Castor 4 - 5°
Front Camber 0.5°-0.75° Negative
Front Toe 0-10”(0-1.5mm)IN
Rear Camber 1.25° Negative
Rear Toe 22”(3.0mm)IN
Chassis Settings
K.P.I 5°
Castor 4 - 5°
Front Camber 0.5°-0.75° Negative
Front Toe 0-10”(0-1.5mm)IN
Rear Camber 1.25° Negative
Rear Toe 22”(3.0mm)IN
Interesting - far from optimum!The info coming from factory on suspension settings was at best ...er ... compromised, and at worst just plain ill-informed. Remember that although we love the cars, this is a company that wouldn't spend a few quid allowing the suspension designer to remove bump-steer on the T-cars.
They also caved in to dealer pressure to drastically lower the ride height on the first year's T350's, which totally b
d up the suspension operation with more bump-steer as well as grounding the nose and diffuser? They reverted to the original height. In my experience, after trying many settings on road and track over last 48k miles these suspension setups aren't right either. Even M3 CSL's/GT3's/Exiges don't run as much rear toe-in as that, for the track let alone road.
I have found for road, on 18" wheels, best for grip and safe chassis behaviour under cornering and braking;
Front -1mm
Rear -1.5mm up to -2mm max (any more and the tyres wear quicker, for no gain).
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff