Engine mountings,

[samantha]

Been trying to change the engine mountings today, After 5 hours of struggling I have changed one the easy side, The exahust side is so dificult to try & put the new mounting into I need to know if there is a easy way of doing this?

Also how often do the mounts fall to bits on the exahust side ?


Thanks

[Barry Ashcroft]

Yep remove the other side with mount so you can tilt the engine over.

[duff-man]

Lots of swearing!

Remove the lower lamda sensor & catalyst then jack the engine till the top lamda sensor touches the top rail, fit it thru the gap with the threads of the mounting facing the floor

Just did mine tonight, pig of a job!

[shep1001]

samantha said:

Been trying to change the engine mountings today, After 5 hours of struggling I have changed one the easy side, The exahust side is so dificult to try & put the new mounting into I need to know if there is a easy way of doing this?

Also how often do the mounts fall to bits on the exahust side ?


Thanks

(1) Pay a garage

(2) Quite often, last one went in 3000 miles

[samantha]

Sorted Both changed, Yes a pig of a job indeed,

Yes a garage would be easier, But at an average of £50 per hour .

Either way I prefer to do everything myself,


Need to get some nimbus heat shielding to try & eliminate the heat melting the manifold side although some was installed on the car I will add some more,


Would not want to keep changing the mounts if a remedy can be found, Heat risistance rubber mounts would be better,


Thanks for your advise,

[duff-man]

de-cats help

[fredd1e]

Support engine on jack etc
Remove Airbox
Remove Drivers side engine mount
Jack engine up as high as it will go and shove it across to Drivers side.
Shorten the studs on the engine mount so that they are only long enough for nuts and washers (plus a few mm for error)
Remove lambda from bottom cat. Wiggle the bugger in fit the bolts to engine bracket fit nuts refit lamba (tighten)
juggle engine back over and refit drivers mount
check sump clearance on chassis juggle engine mounts on bolts until it looks right then tighten all the bilts and nuts (skinning lots of flesh on the way....)
Refit chassis stiffener and recheck clearance (at this point I should have said test fit before tightening it all as it may need more tweaking...

[dvs_dave]

samantha said:

Sorted Both changed, Yes a pig of a job indeed,

Yes a garage would be easier, But at an average of £50 per hour .

Either way I prefer to do everything myself,


Need to get some nimbus heat shielding to try & eliminate the heat melting the manifold side although some was installed on the car I will add some more,


Would not want to keep changing the mounts if a remedy can be found, Heat risistance rubber mounts would be better,


Thanks for your advise,

It's the heat soak from the manifolds/cats through the mount arm that kills them, not so much the direct radiated heat from the exhausts. Ceramic coating the manifolds and the arm seems to stop the problem.

As said, a cheaper option is to de-cat although they do still fail, just not as regularly.

[samantha]

Minght consider taking the cats out, But noise will increase? Lambarda will be effected, ? any counter measures?

Also I want to run on the race tracks & dont want noise to be an issue.

High flow cats? any one fitted these?

Do the cats just knock out?

[dvs_dave]

Lambdas aren't affected as they're before the cats. With the standard back box the noise isn't really any louder. Just a bit deeper and more pops and bangs.

[Don1]

Search on Youtube for TVR Powers Sag on the rollers. The exhausts have been coated, glow blue (how cool?), and keep temps down. Cost was under £200 IIRC.

[Don1]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRscxjrMYPY

[tail slide]

samantha said:

Minght consider taking the cats out, But noise will increase? Lambarda will be effected, ? any counter measures?

Also I want to run on the race tracks & dont want noise to be an issue.

High flow cats? any one fitted these?

Do the cats just knock out?

To give you a guide, mine lasted 15k miles this time inc quite a bit on track, once decatted with high-flow Quick decats but without ceramic coating on manifolds.