Engine will not start/turn over after 2 months laid up.
Discussion
My T350c has been laid up for the past two month with the battery disconnected.
I reconnected a new battery and went to start it up yesterday but would not turn over.
After the fuel pump primed I got very erratic dash pod behavior and ticking noise along with a power supply fault reading on the dash pod.
Consulted Graham Varley excellent manual, were upon I removed checked and cleaned up all battery power cable terminals along with all the earthing terminals, replaced the 3 main power fuses with new, and tried again but still the same problem.
The only other thing I can think of is the immobilizer needs resetting but cannot find how to do this.
I reconnected a new battery and went to start it up yesterday but would not turn over.
After the fuel pump primed I got very erratic dash pod behavior and ticking noise along with a power supply fault reading on the dash pod.
Consulted Graham Varley excellent manual, were upon I removed checked and cleaned up all battery power cable terminals along with all the earthing terminals, replaced the 3 main power fuses with new, and tried again but still the same problem.
The only other thing I can think of is the immobilizer needs resetting but cannot find how to do this.
[quote=shep1001]
YHM regarding the immob. IMO its not this (fuel pump would not prime) its the battery or the starter. Do the needles 'stick' when they sweep when the ignition is switched on? mine does this if the battery is too discharged to start the car. Also check the battery voltage on the menu, less than 12.1v showing and its unlikely to crank over when you turn the key.
Shep
YHM regarding the immob. IMO its not this (fuel pump would not prime) its the battery or the starter. Do the needles 'stick' when they sweep when the ignition is switched on? mine does this if the battery is too discharged to start the car. Also check the battery voltage on the menu, less than 12.1v showing and its unlikely to crank over when you turn the key.
Shep
Ok Guys i have got 12.49 volts at the battery terminals (not connected) and only 8.7 volts on dash pod reading.
The pod needle do not stick they complete their sweep then return to start position.
Think I am going to remove starter motor and test it on bench next.
Update
With battery terminals connected and ignition off
10.46 volts at battery
10.25 volts at starter motor
10.25 volts at main fuse between start and alternator
10.25 at alternator
The pod needle do not stick they complete their sweep then return to start position.
Think I am going to remove starter motor and test it on bench next.
Update
With battery terminals connected and ignition off
10.46 volts at battery
10.25 volts at starter motor
10.25 volts at main fuse between start and alternator
10.25 at alternator
Edited by zooooom on Thursday 17th February 12:34
I think it might be your battery - mine went a few weeks back - all normal but lots of clicking noises from the dash when trying to turn it over. Spoke to the guys at TrackvRoad and they said that the dash should be reading about 13v and anything less might not be able to start the car. They fitted a new battery and it started straight away
duff-man said:
What voltage do you get on the dash when cranking?
The engine will not turn over,I have taken the start motor out and bench tested it, its dead new one on order so hope this is the problem.
Still puzzling that the dash voltage reading is only 8.7
Edited by zooooom on Thursday 17th February 14:17
zooooom said:
The engine will not turn over,
I have taken the start motor out and bench tested it, its dead new one on order so hope this is the problem.
Still puzzling that the dash voltage reading is only 8.7
Is the solenoid engaging?? I believe if it doesn’t engage it doesn't spin the starter motor.I have taken the start motor out and bench tested it, its dead new one on order so hope this is the problem.
Still puzzling that the dash voltage reading is only 8.7
Edited by zooooom on Thursday 17th February 14:17
Another suggestion to check battery cranking ability is if you have jump leads to the Anderson connector, try slaving from another battery or from a running car that should be pushing 13 volts. If you do this with your battery in situ and it turns but stalls or won't start on disconnecting the slave then its battery related.
New batteries can also suffer with internal dry breaks between cells that only show under load.
New batteries can also suffer with internal dry breaks between cells that only show under load.
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