Crunching 1st to 2nd
Discussion
When first setting off from cold, my v12v always crunches when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. It will only do this once, the first change, all subsequent changes are fine. This also only happens when it is cold ie. first thing in a morning - if I park up a few hours then drive it won't happen.
If I 'change' from 1st to 2nd whilst stationary i.e just move the gear lever between 1st & 2nd before I actually pull away then it won't do it.
I took it back to JCT in december and they changed the gearbox oil but it's not seemed to solve it. I'll follow up with the dealer this week but wondered if anyone else had experienced this.
Thanks
Paul
If I 'change' from 1st to 2nd whilst stationary i.e just move the gear lever between 1st & 2nd before I actually pull away then it won't do it.
I took it back to JCT in december and they changed the gearbox oil but it's not seemed to solve it. I'll follow up with the dealer this week but wondered if anyone else had experienced this.
Thanks
Paul
Yesterday i tried to reverse my DBS out of the garage and could i select reverse could i eck, only by moving the leaver forwards and backwards with in the gears eventually i managed to select reverse.
Tomorrow it happens to be booked in for a few niggles im going to add this to the list.
Grants book mentions changing the oil also changing levers but that would fall under warranty,this problem is well known to AM
Tomorrow it happens to be booked in for a few niggles im going to add this to the list.
Grants book mentions changing the oil also changing levers but that would fall under warranty,this problem is well known to AM
ripley500 said:
If I 'change' from 1st to 2nd whilst stationary i.e just move the gear lever between 1st & 2nd before I actually pull away then it won't do it.
Umm... so how is that not the solution? Just do this every time? I usually do this either before I start the engine or before I move off, 1st to 6th and back again. Just seems to line everything up (gearbox is at the back don't forget, connected by cables) and shears the thixotropic gearbox oil when it's stone cold.
V8 Animal said:
Yesterday i tried to reverse my DBS out of the garage and could i select reverse could i eck, only by moving the leaver forwards and backwards with in the gears eventually i managed to select reverse.
Tomorrow it happens to be booked in for a few niggles im going to add this to the list.
Grants book mentions changing the oil also changing levers but that would fall under warranty,this problem is well known to AM
Did you engage neutral, de-clutch and go after it again? Sometimes the shafts don't quite line up and usually will the second time.Tomorrow it happens to be booked in for a few niggles im going to add this to the list.
Grants book mentions changing the oil also changing levers but that would fall under warranty,this problem is well known to AM
yeti said:
Umm... so how is that not the solution? Just do this every time?
I usually do this either before I start the engine or before I move off, 1st to 6th and back again. Just seems to line everything up (gearbox is at the back don't forget, connected by cables) and shears the thixotropic gearbox oil when it's stone cold.
Yes, it is preventable to do this but wondered if its a case of TADTS I usually do this either before I start the engine or before I move off, 1st to 6th and back again. Just seems to line everything up (gearbox is at the back don't forget, connected by cables) and shears the thixotropic gearbox oil when it's stone cold.
ripley500 said:
Yes, it is preventable to do this but wondered if its a case of TADTS
Very cold and therefore thick oil plus cable operated transaxle layout. Just the action of shearing that oil at the very start of the operation is such a good thing to do. Look up 'thixotropy' if your chemical engineering is rusty.
My 4200GT Maserati... I had to go from 1st to 3rd until it was warm
But I'd forgive that car anything
yeti said:
Did you engage neutral, de-clutch and go after it again? Sometimes the shafts don't quite line up and usually will the second time.
Car was in neutral press the clutch down as it wont start otherwise couldn't get the lever over only by going through 1st and 2nd did it eventually go over.Hopefully thinner oil will fix this.
V8 Animal said:
Car was in neutral press the clutch down as it wont start otherwise couldn't get the lever over only by going through 1st and 2nd did it eventually go over.
Hopefully thinner oil will fix this.
I meant after starting... try a de-clutch and then try for the gear again, it'll go second time, you were just unlucky with the alignment.Hopefully thinner oil will fix this.
My vantage box can feel a little tight, especially on the really cold day. I am going to pop to the Reading dealership and ask to take their demo car out to see if its the same. If so, then I think I'll change the gearbox oil. If not then I'm hoping its not a syncro issue... 99% sure it's just me having Pride Paranoia 
I had the same problem on my old banger, I had the gearbox oil changed to no avail, I found I could get round the problem by taking my time between gears sometimes but it got worse, so I had to bite the bullet and splash out on a new clutch.
It's been fine since and that was over a year ago,
It's been fine since and that was over a year ago,
ds2000 said:
If so, then I think I'll change the gearbox oil.
Are you going to change the oil to oil that is permanently warmer? If changing to thinner oil, then it is too thin once warmed through and won;t cool the gearbox in extrame circumstances. If the dealer demo has been moved at all that day, it won't feel the same as yours does first thing.It's because the oil is cold, veryu viscous and needs shearing, work the gears before you move off when it is cold
Just to confirm, can someone quote or reply to this as no-one seems to be paying a blind bit of notice. Am I on most people's ignore list?
Of course, if it's like this all the time, i.e. when warm as well then it may need an oil change or a cable alignment check.
I can see it loud and clear Lewis
I've got a good friend who's built several gearboxes for race tuned cars and always says people don't change the oil often enough (his other pet hate is people not changing fuel filters), changing viscosity can often mask problems so I'll not be doing that. For me, changing it will be purely down to making sure the gearbox is protected to the best possible standards. If I do (unlikely) have a mechanical issue then it'll be back to AM to be sorted
I've got a good friend who's built several gearboxes for race tuned cars and always says people don't change the oil often enough (his other pet hate is people not changing fuel filters), changing viscosity can often mask problems so I'll not be doing that. For me, changing it will be purely down to making sure the gearbox is protected to the best possible standards. If I do (unlikely) have a mechanical issue then it'll be back to AM to be sorted
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