Clutch Pedal Slow To Return
Discussion
Hi Everyone,
I have a quick question regarding my AM V8 Vantage 2006 plate. I've search the net without any joy so thought I'd see if anyone here might be able to help before heading back to the dealer.
I've been out in the car a few times over the last 2 weeks, only on short journeys and I've noticed that the clutch pedal would sometime take roughly 2 seconds to come all the way back out after I've pushed it down to change gear.
The clutch isn't slipping and it was replaced at Derby Motor services a few years ago and has done less than 10k miles since.
With the car running at 60mph I popped it into neutral and started pressing the clutch down and as soon as it came back up, I pressed it down again. I did this quite a few times and for a while after doing that, it seemed to be "less stiff".
It's not a massive problem as I don't drive the car too heavy, but it is a pain when I'm setting off and wanting a quick 1st to 2nd gear change.
This is probably completely unrelated but I'll mention it anyway just in case it isn't. A few months ago, the engine warning light came on stating that a "CO2 Emissions Service" was required. Having read on the forums here and a lot of people stating that warning can appear due to a change in driving style, I'm putting that down to the handful of times the Mrs drove the car
I've recently purchased an ODC2 reader and will reset the warning and see if it comes back. This is probably unrelated to the clutch issue but I thought I'd just mention it.
Just want to say that this forum is a fantastic source of information and is a continuing help when ttrying to diagnose problems with my cars as well as my friend's and family's!
Thanks in advance.
Chris
I have a quick question regarding my AM V8 Vantage 2006 plate. I've search the net without any joy so thought I'd see if anyone here might be able to help before heading back to the dealer.
I've been out in the car a few times over the last 2 weeks, only on short journeys and I've noticed that the clutch pedal would sometime take roughly 2 seconds to come all the way back out after I've pushed it down to change gear.
The clutch isn't slipping and it was replaced at Derby Motor services a few years ago and has done less than 10k miles since.
With the car running at 60mph I popped it into neutral and started pressing the clutch down and as soon as it came back up, I pressed it down again. I did this quite a few times and for a while after doing that, it seemed to be "less stiff".
It's not a massive problem as I don't drive the car too heavy, but it is a pain when I'm setting off and wanting a quick 1st to 2nd gear change.
This is probably completely unrelated but I'll mention it anyway just in case it isn't. A few months ago, the engine warning light came on stating that a "CO2 Emissions Service" was required. Having read on the forums here and a lot of people stating that warning can appear due to a change in driving style, I'm putting that down to the handful of times the Mrs drove the car
I've recently purchased an ODC2 reader and will reset the warning and see if it comes back. This is probably unrelated to the clutch issue but I thought I'd just mention it.Just want to say that this forum is a fantastic source of information and is a continuing help when ttrying to diagnose problems with my cars as well as my friend's and family's!
Thanks in advance.
Chris
Hi Chris,
The boys that know will be back from work soon and will offer some more sensible advice I'm sure.....
The caption and clutch won't be related, so don't worry about that. Very common warning and is often spurious or indicates a duff O2 sensor.
As for the clutch, tricky one. I'm guessing that there is a spring element that returns the pedal to its normal position, so that may be on its way out, otherwise......silly question....but have you looked at the carpet/matting around the pedal? It might be getting caught on there and preventing it from coming back. Your exercising of it may then have freed it. Just a thought. As I said, somebody who actually knows what they are talking about will be along soon, or failing that you could always ask BamfordMike on the sticky at the top of the page. HTH, Mark.
The boys that know will be back from work soon and will offer some more sensible advice I'm sure.....
The caption and clutch won't be related, so don't worry about that. Very common warning and is often spurious or indicates a duff O2 sensor.
As for the clutch, tricky one. I'm guessing that there is a spring element that returns the pedal to its normal position, so that may be on its way out, otherwise......silly question....but have you looked at the carpet/matting around the pedal? It might be getting caught on there and preventing it from coming back. Your exercising of it may then have freed it. Just a thought. As I said, somebody who actually knows what they are talking about will be along soon, or failing that you could always ask BamfordMike on the sticky at the top of the page. HTH, Mark.
PiloteAM said:
Bincenzo said:
The boys that know will be back from lunch soon and will offer some off-topic drivel.....
There, fixed it for you I would think a bad spring wouldn't do that... stuck carpet is a good thought, or a dodgy master cylinder.
te 
Vaguely recall someone else reporting this a few months ago.
IIRC squirt of lube up where the clutch pedal pivots resolved the issue, but don't hold me to that!
In fact here it is:-
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&a...
IIRC squirt of lube up where the clutch pedal pivots resolved the issue, but don't hold me to that!
In fact here it is:-
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&a...
Morning guys,
Massive thanks for all the responses, I wasn't expecting a single response if I'm honest!
You've provided some really useful pieces of information on what could be the cause/resolution to the problem:
1. Stuck Carpet
2. Spray Lube Up Where The Clutch Pedal Pivots
3. Bleed System
4. Replace Master Cylinder
Points 1 and 2 are extremely straight forward so I'll do them first (assuming that if I just spray WD40 up where the clutch pedal disappears into the front of the car it will be OK). I would also like to have a look into bleeding the system as I think this would be an interesting read and if points 1 and 2 don't fix the problem I'll at least have a bit of knowledge to be dangerous
I'll have a look on here for "bleeding the system" but if you can recommend a post/article that would be great.
Thanks again for all your help guys, it's greatly appreciated.
Chris
Massive thanks for all the responses, I wasn't expecting a single response if I'm honest!
You've provided some really useful pieces of information on what could be the cause/resolution to the problem:
1. Stuck Carpet
2. Spray Lube Up Where The Clutch Pedal Pivots
3. Bleed System
4. Replace Master Cylinder
Points 1 and 2 are extremely straight forward so I'll do them first (assuming that if I just spray WD40 up where the clutch pedal disappears into the front of the car it will be OK). I would also like to have a look into bleeding the system as I think this would be an interesting read and if points 1 and 2 don't fix the problem I'll at least have a bit of knowledge to be dangerous
I'll have a look on here for "bleeding the system" but if you can recommend a post/article that would be great.
Thanks again for all your help guys, it's greatly appreciated.
Chris
It's fairly easy to bleed with a couple of helpers, the slave cylinder bleed nipple is at the bottom of the bell houising. Just put on a bleed tube into a jam jar, open the nipple, have helper 1 slowly press the clutch pedal in a out, helper 2 make sure the reservoir level is kept topped up, after a few strokes tighten the nipple and try it. I you are any way mechanically competent, an easy 10 minute job.
If the car is used infrequently, the master cylinder or slave cylinder might be sticky with a bit of light corrosion on the cylinder bore, if so a bit of regular use might fix it.
If the car is used infrequently, the master cylinder or slave cylinder might be sticky with a bit of light corrosion on the cylinder bore, if so a bit of regular use might fix it.
ChrisKitchen said:
Would WD40 be OK to prove the point and if it works, then get a proper lube? Without this hopefully not sounding too strange, any lube recommendations?
Absolutely - if it works, then get some PTFE spray (Halfrauds do it with a straw spray attachment a la WD)FWIW, I wouldn't have thought air in the system - if it was, then surely if clutch pedal held down while in gear it will eventually start to re-engage the clutch?
'FWIW, I wouldn't have thought air in the system - if it was, then surely if clutch pedal held down while in gear it will eventually start to re-engage the clutch?'
I doubt it. Air is trapped in the clutch release line, and cannot escape. However because air is compressible, the release movement for the clutch will be reduced, so the usual symptom is failure to release the driven plate - ie a dragging clutch with difficulty engaging 1st & reverse.
Sounds like a sticky return spring on the pedal to me, if not carpet.
I doubt it. Air is trapped in the clutch release line, and cannot escape. However because air is compressible, the release movement for the clutch will be reduced, so the usual symptom is failure to release the driven plate - ie a dragging clutch with difficulty engaging 1st & reverse.
Sounds like a sticky return spring on the pedal to me, if not carpet.
Thanks again for your comments guys. I'm driving the 200 miles back home to try out the suggestions a day early, so I'll have an update tomorrow morning.
Completely agree with you DRMW when you say "Halfrauds". Last week I took my Range Rover in to their auto centre (purely for the advice) as the car was shaking under braking and it wasn't the discs. After 10 minutes on the ramp they said it was the lower bush arms and offered to replace them for £550. I can get a pair of official bush arms from Range Rover parts for £90, so they wanted £460 for labour (and that's not taking into account the fact that Halfrauds will pay a lower trade price for the parts)!!
Anyway
Thanks again guys, massively appreciate the help!
Chris
Completely agree with you DRMW when you say "Halfrauds". Last week I took my Range Rover in to their auto centre (purely for the advice) as the car was shaking under braking and it wasn't the discs. After 10 minutes on the ramp they said it was the lower bush arms and offered to replace them for £550. I can get a pair of official bush arms from Range Rover parts for £90, so they wanted £460 for labour (and that's not taking into account the fact that Halfrauds will pay a lower trade price for the parts)!!
Anyway
Thanks again guys, massively appreciate the help!
Chris
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