HID failure V8 Vantage
HID failure V8 Vantage
Author
Discussion

sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Saturday 29th June 2013
quotequote all
Dear Forum Members,

I just bought and V8 vantage roadster and I am new on this forum.
After some weeks the next problems occur:
-Both dipped beam lights(L+R) stopped with burning

I did the next checks:
-Fuses are OK
-The others lights are working well

To all of you I have the next questions:
-Does someone had the same experience and how was it solved?
-Is is possible if the can bus system registrate a (temporary)failure that it will block the power to both light systems?

I really look forward and would sincerely appreciate your reply

Sybrand

X7LDA

940 posts

234 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
When you say dipped beams do you mean the LED strips or the beams/bulbs themselves?

sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
Sorry that my message seems not to be clear enough. With dipped-beam headlamp I mean the bulbs for the normal light.(not the LED strips)
After a suggestion from a forum member I also disconnected and connected the battery to reboot the ECU. Unhappily it didn't help to solve the issue.

Does some of you have had the same experiences and or suggestions that will help me to solve the failure?

Thanks in advance for your reply


X7LDA

940 posts

234 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
The headlights are controlled by circuit boards in each headlamp I believe and therefore the two shouldn't, in theory, be connected to each other.

New bulbs can be bought on astonmartinbits or ebay - unless a local dealer can find a fault (or someone on here has experienced similar) I can only suggest trying to change one.

eoinbenjimancox

154 posts

163 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
i have the same problem. but only with one. the light would flicker but tehn go out. the problem is the ballast that ignites the bulb. this may not be the same problem you have but maybe one to look into.

Fullmel

146 posts

195 months

Monday 1st July 2013
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I would guess it will be the resister pack bolted to the underside of the lamps.

sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
Is the resisterpack the same as the ballast mentioned in the earlier reply?

I will try to check this out. However the strange thing in my opinion is that both lights(L+R) are not functioning.

mikey k

13,074 posts

246 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
sybrandb said:
Is the resisterpack the same as the ballast mentioned in the earlier reply?

I will try to check this out. However the strange thing in my opinion is that both lights(L+R) are not functioning.
Resostor Pack = Ballast
It is strange they have both gone, are the fed the fuse box in the footwell? Did you lift the carpet and check there?

peterr96

2,226 posts

205 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
mikey k said:
sybrandb said:
Is the resisterpack the same as the ballast mentioned in the earlier reply?

I will try to check this out. However the strange thing in my opinion is that both lights(L+R) are not functioning.
Resostor Pack = Ballast
It is strange they have both gone, are the fed the fuse box in the footwell? Did you lift the carpet and check there?
I think a Resistor pack is a rather antiquated thing which they used to have before the days of dual filament lamps. Dipped headlamps fed the lamp through a (big, hot when in use) resistor. High beam shorted the resistor out giving a brighter headlight.
A resistor box bears no resemblance whatsoever to a ballast. The ballast converts 12volts DC up to about 80 volts (IIRC) which maintains the HID arc after it's been struck by the ignitor (which is on the base of the lamp).

Back to the subject in hand, the drawings I have access to do not show any fuses or relays between the control module and the lamps, which I find really hard to believe. It's not impossible that one ballast could be shorted taking the lamp circuit down, but I find it hard to believe that both ballasts or bulbs would give out at the same time.
My gut reaction is it's more likely to be on the control side, ie from the dashboard switch to the control module, but we're not going to make any sane diagnosis by eamil.

OP. Are you CERTAIN that both the dipped beam headlamps worked when you got the car?
You need to get the car to a repairer (AM franchise or not.. it's up to you) as you are unlikely yo resolve this yourself.

sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
Dear Forum members,
Thank you all for the support. I really appreciate your involvement.

-Fuses: I checked the fuses under the foot carpet+alu cover. I checked with a indicator. There was power on both pin's of the fuse.
-When I bought the car the lights were 100% functioning.

If there are no options left anymore, I think I have to visit consult an AM dealer because it seems to be a more complex problem.

But feel free to react with suggestions or advice

Thanks in advance



sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Friday 12th July 2013
quotequote all
Dear forum members,
I solved the issue and share my experiences regarding the subject.
After thorough investigation both headlight units were full of water. The ballast and even the wiring to the LED bulb were damaged by the water. So I replaced these (same parts as Ford Focus '05 with HID) and the problem is solved. I also learned: If one ballast has a failure, both headlights will go out.

I am happy AMV8 driver again......

mikey k

13,074 posts

246 months

Friday 12th July 2013
quotequote all
sybrandb said:
Dear forum members,
I solved the issue and share my experiences regarding the subject.
After thorough investigation both headlight units were full of water. The ballast and even the wiring to the LED bulb were damaged by the water. So I replaced these (same parts as Ford Focus '05 with HID) and the problem is solved. I also learned: If one ballast has a failure, both headlights will go out.

I am happy AMV8 driver again......
Good result and worth knowing they are Ford parts!

yeti

10,688 posts

305 months

Friday 12th July 2013
quotequote all
mikey k said:
Good result and worth knowing they are Ford parts!
Why am I not surprised though biglaugh

sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Saturday 13th July 2013
quotequote all
Dear Forum members,

Because I was very happy with solving the failure. As first reaction I was short with my reply on the solution of the failure. There are still question marks regarding the original cause of the problem which I would share with you as forum members:
-In both head lights there was really a lot of water. After testing with air pressure we could not find any leakage. Does anyone recognize this and has the same experience?
-The problem was their probably a long time. In the headlights were silica bags placed by the foreign owner/dealer to absorb water/condensation. It looks a very practical solution. Is this common?
-The silica bags were now torn. Silica material and water was at the bottom of the headlight. This caused corrosion and shorted circuit at the ballast and wiring. The ballast is positioned on the lowest part of the unit.

Because I cannot found a leakage and I am pretty sure that water/condensation will come back I consider to do next actions:
-Put new silica bags(better tear-resistant bag) in the unit and refresh them now and than
-Make a small hole(8mm) at one of the lowest parts of the unit to drain the water.

Who has experience to share or advise me?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

mikey k

13,074 posts

246 months

Saturday 13th July 2013
quotequote all
Silica will only absorb a small amount of moisture before it needs regenerating
I'd look at the "fix" AM us on the rear light and try that on the fronts!

yeti

10,688 posts

305 months

Saturday 13th July 2013
quotequote all
mikey k said:
Silica will only absorb a small amount of moisture before it needs regenerating
I'd look at the "fix" AM us on the rear light and try that on the fronts!
What's the fix for the rears? Drainage..?

The dealers would occasionally install silica gel packs in DB7 headlights for moisture removal. I think it was just SOMETHING for the owners who would not accept the TADTS excuse.

Can't think of a car with faired in lights that I have ever owned that doesn't have moisture in the headlights. Being full of water is another matter though yes


sybrandb

Original Poster:

24 posts

160 months

Sunday 14th July 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for the reaction guys. I will investigate the "fix" mentioned.

KarlFranz

2,008 posts

300 months

Sunday 14th July 2013
quotequote all
yeti said:
What's the fix for the rears? Drainage..?
The fix involves removing the taillight and drilling a 1/2 inch hole in the top of the unit. You then use compressed air through the hole to blow the moisture out. Finally, you seal the hole again with a patch similar to repairing a bicycle inner tube. When I did this, the compressed air was not enough to remove the moisture completely. I wound up putting the taillight unit in my kitchen oven at very low heat for about 15 minutes to help remove all the moisture.

Unfortunately, 3 weeks after completing the procedure, there was moisture in my lights again. My car had not been in the rain or even been washed during that time, but I suspect the high summer humidity here in Melbourne was enough to cause it to happen.

mikey k

13,074 posts

246 months

Monday 15th July 2013
quotequote all
KarlFranz said:
yeti said:
What's the fix for the rears? Drainage..?
The fix involves removing the taillight and drilling a 1/2 inch hole in the top of the unit. You then use compressed air through the hole to blow the moisture out. Finally, you seal the hole again with a patch similar to repairing a bicycle inner tube. When I did this, the compressed air was not enough to remove the moisture completely. I wound up putting the taillight unit in my kitchen oven at very low heat for about 15 minutes to help remove all the moisture.

Unfortunately, 3 weeks after completing the procedure, there was moisture in my lights again. My car had not been in the rain or even been washed during that time, but I suspect the high summer humidity here in Melbourne was enough to cause it to happen.
Your compressed air needs to have been dried ALL compressors generate wet air with out a dryer.
I'd put a removable grommet in the 1/2" hole, maybe in a position you can do it on the car?

KarlFranz

2,008 posts

300 months

Monday 15th July 2013
quotequote all
mikey k said:
Your compressed air needs to have been dried ALL compressors generate wet air with out a dryer.
I'd put a removable grommet in the 1/2" hole, maybe in a position you can do it on the car?
Yes, I'm aware of that. My air compressor has an air/water separator and dryer for when I use it for spray painting. The problem is that you have to attach a piece of flexible tubing to get to the nooks and crannies inside the light unit (per the service bulletin) but there is all sorts of baffling inside the taillight that keeps you from getting the compressed air into the corners. Also, a rubber grommet would not provide enough of a watertight moisture barrier to make sure it doesn't happen again. The lamps, by design, have a couple of places where moisture can get in, one of them being the electrical connector itself. The second is a small white vent with a gray round cap. I haven't figured out what the purpose of that one is yet.

Edited by KarlFranz on Monday 15th July 13:37