V8V running issues
Discussion
Morning all. Hope everyone had a great festive break.
I have an issue with my 4.3 57 coupe that has reared its head after the car has been stood for a few weeks.
She runs fine with the only tell tale being a very slight shunting on light throttle until you hit motorways. Once up to around 70 (and a bit) as soon as throttle is feathered at the desired speed you feel engine braking and emissions warning and engine system service urgent warnings appear. Engine management light appears. Limp home mode initiates.
Stop the car, restart and all is ok until same high speed coasting is carried out. Also sounds like she's running lean (pops and bangs on overrun)
Cleared the codes twice and both occasions got
P010a mass or volume air flow B circuit
P010f mass or volume air flow sensor A/B correlation
P2106 throttle actuator control system force limited power
I am happy the last code is generated as a result of self protection by the car and my guess would be one of the MAFS is unhappy but would love some second opinions pls
To reiterate the car runs well around town without problem
Also if it is maf, any help on removing them would be useful
Thanks in advance
Clarky.
I have an issue with my 4.3 57 coupe that has reared its head after the car has been stood for a few weeks.
She runs fine with the only tell tale being a very slight shunting on light throttle until you hit motorways. Once up to around 70 (and a bit) as soon as throttle is feathered at the desired speed you feel engine braking and emissions warning and engine system service urgent warnings appear. Engine management light appears. Limp home mode initiates.
Stop the car, restart and all is ok until same high speed coasting is carried out. Also sounds like she's running lean (pops and bangs on overrun)
Cleared the codes twice and both occasions got
P010a mass or volume air flow B circuit
P010f mass or volume air flow sensor A/B correlation
P2106 throttle actuator control system force limited power
I am happy the last code is generated as a result of self protection by the car and my guess would be one of the MAFS is unhappy but would love some second opinions pls
To reiterate the car runs well around town without problem
Also if it is maf, any help on removing them would be useful
Thanks in advance
Clarky.
Thanks for your concern animal. I probably worded the post a little wrongly. My current fleet consists of a 997S, Cayenne turbo, wife's CLK, Ducati, a fireblade, and obviously the AMV I have stript and restored, rebuilt many TVRs, Porsches and Loti in my time.
My question should have ended (mainly due to it being frosty and not wanting to get under the car) how is the best way to access the MAFS. Not had to do any mechanicals on the V8V yet so thought I would be able to save time and effort of trial and error by tapping into the forums knowledge.
Suspect it is a bad MAF but reassurance before I start stripping pipe work is always nice
Regards,
Clarky.
My question should have ended (mainly due to it being frosty and not wanting to get under the car) how is the best way to access the MAFS. Not had to do any mechanicals on the V8V yet so thought I would be able to save time and effort of trial and error by tapping into the forums knowledge.
Suspect it is a bad MAF but reassurance before I start stripping pipe work is always nice
Regards,
Clarky.
Many thanks to Ikebaddog for sourcing a workshop manual for me. Armed with the right knowledge and knowing which side MAF was reading wrong, removing road wheel and inner arch showed the clip had come off for the engine side of the maf. Total of an hour and a half which included cleaning said maf and a good fettle round the suspension = all good on the running front. No more error codes!
Total spend = £3.50 for brake and clutch cleaner.
Now remind me again how much a read of the codes, labour and replacement of the perfectly good maf as the codes suggested a fault would have cost at the stealers.
Total spend = £3.50 for brake and clutch cleaner.
Now remind me again how much a read of the codes, labour and replacement of the perfectly good maf as the codes suggested a fault would have cost at the stealers.
clarky5150 said:
Many thanks to Ikebaddog for sourcing a workshop manual for me. Armed with the right knowledge and knowing which side MAF was reading wrong, removing road wheel and inner arch showed the clip had come off for the engine side of the maf. Total of an hour and a half which included cleaning said maf and a good fettle round the suspension = all good on the running front. No more error codes!
Total spend = £3.50 for brake and clutch cleaner.
Now remind me again how much a read of the codes, labour and replacement of the perfectly good maf as the codes suggested a fault would have cost at the stealers.
Good for you and really pleased you got it sorted , bet you're feeling pretty good right now ! You'll be on that car insurance advert next feeling 'Epic' :-)Total spend = £3.50 for brake and clutch cleaner.
Now remind me again how much a read of the codes, labour and replacement of the perfectly good maf as the codes suggested a fault would have cost at the stealers.
clarky5150 said:
Many thanks to Ikebaddog for sourcing a workshop manual for me. Armed with the right knowledge and knowing which side MAF was reading wrong, removing road wheel and inner arch showed the clip had come off for the engine side of the maf. Total of an hour and a half which included cleaning said maf and a good fettle round the suspension = all good on the running front. No more error codes!
Total spend = £3.50 for brake and clutch cleaner.
Now remind me again how much a read of the codes, labour and replacement of the perfectly good maf as the codes suggested a fault would have cost at the stealers.
Excellent news, no fear of MAF faults from now on( they all go on the blink now and again), on a similar note, changed my battery this weekend, the original now 7 years old, took me longer than it took to change front discs and pads, battery is huge!!! And fitted in a very small space, thought it was odd that AM charge about £100 to fit a new one, I now know why,Total spend = £3.50 for brake and clutch cleaner.
Now remind me again how much a read of the codes, labour and replacement of the perfectly good maf as the codes suggested a fault would have cost at the stealers.
Aye. I think we have crossed paths before Quinny on a few TVR meets. I used to have a Halcyon Atlantis 4.2 Cerb and was one of Joolz first customers so it was a bit of a test mule for him (and so went like a scalded cat). Also had Joolz old 3000M as a long term rebuild and an ex race prepped 4.3 big valve Griff ? ALL AT THE SAME TIME!!!
I had shares in Aryldite lol.
I had shares in Aryldite lol.
well done Clarky - I also changed a battery this weekend - took about an hour going carefully, but another time could be done in 15 minutes I would think. Pity the quarter panel has to come off to slide out the battery clamps, and to get the qp off, first you must remove the sill plate.
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