Detailing and pure water systems
Detailing and pure water systems
Author
Discussion

Gmw76

Original Poster:

104 posts

181 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
I am considering a DI resin water filter for use on final rinse. There are a few on the market but they use the same DI resin bed process. I am particularly interested in one to avoid repeated bright grille water marks and also to maybe avoid use of a drying towel.
My concern is that some say 0 tds water is agressive and so I am not sure how it may be safe for wax finish or on disks/hubs. Would it be any worse than my tap water?

Has anyone got one or tried one?

Also I wonder if Francis has a view on air drying following pure water rinse.


Thanks
Mark

Gettoff

1,434 posts

237 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
DI water or ultrapure water is slightly acidic, typically a pH around 6.0, so, left for a prolonged period on the same area of unprotected metal, corrosion will occur. It's the reason copper isn't used in ringmains for RO or DI water, that said, I wouldn't expect to see a problem with paintwork if the car was dried off with a microfibre towel as normal.

Personally, I think it is a bit OTT, if you manually dry it off before it has chance to naturally do so you'll have no problems. If you have soft water where you are out of the tap, you probably shouldn't worry about it.

All IMHO biggrin

V12woollie

4,363 posts

175 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
I use an Aquagleam 0PPM unit for the final rinse, then use the Airforce Blaster to clear water beads, panel joins, shutlines and brakes and then dab dry with a microfibre towel.

A bit OTT but after paying for a paint correction and film I want it to look good.

paddy328

2,930 posts

215 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
I think for those that live in a hard water area, a water filter is a great idea. I'd get a sidekick air blaster to blow the worst off and of course the door shuts,lights etc including the wheels and then finish off with a drying towel of quick detailer an MF cloth.

Gmw76

Original Poster:

104 posts

181 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks guys

Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater.

I was hoping to maybe avoid completely toweling dry but would probably do windows and really hope the grille would look better. I would polish grille then try and put some protective wax on it to solve water mark problem.

Mark

Gmw76

Original Poster:

104 posts

181 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks guys

Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater.

I was hoping to maybe avoid completely toweling dry but would probably do windows and really hope the grille would look better. I would polish grille then try and put some protective wax on it to solve water mark problem.

Mark

Gettoff

1,434 posts

237 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
Gmw76 said:
Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater?

Mark
You are correct, it would be minimal exposure time, so of negligible concern, you did ask about the aggressive nature of DI water in your OP though, so I thought I would comment. In reality, you would pay extra (how much, I have no idea) for DI resin cartridges and spend a similar amount of time drying as with mains/soft water, a bit unnecessary for me, but, its better than hard water left to dry if softened water is unavailable.

quench

563 posts

176 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
I have used a DI system (CR Spotless) for years and frequently leave the water to dry by itself, with no ill effects. If I want to drive the car immediately after washing, I use a leaf blower to dry it off. I have not towel dried a car in years. The only time my paint is touched is during the actual washing. Any contact with the clear coat will cause some degree of micro marring, no matter how careful your technique. Why touch your paint if you don't have to?

StephenP

1,918 posts

240 months

Thursday 17th July 2014
quotequote all
I've just bought one of these ....

http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-glaze/400-litre-0p...

The unit is refillable and, in my opinion, better than the sealed units that are often sold for the same purpose.

I was a little sceptical before purchase but having used it I am extremely happy. We live in a very hard water area and water staining was the norm. Used this to do a final rinse with the jet wash, left the car to dry on it's own and the results were spotless.

Ed50

2,574 posts

211 months

Friday 18th July 2014
quotequote all
I agree with Steve,

Great Product especially in and around our Area where the waters hard and particularly wet……..scratchchin

Had a word with Mark the boss from the previously mentioned link and he's agreed to bring some along to Burghley for a demo and your closer inspection.

Check them out as they seem to work very well imo.