Buying DB7 3.2
Discussion
Many things, but make sure it has a Full Service History and the air con works for starters. I don't agree of going for the V12 Vantage, if you are going to go for a V12,save a bit more and just get a DB9 which is a far better and more modern car than a DB7 (6 cylinder or V12). I think the 7 is a better looking car though!
gillimont said:
I'm looking to buy a 3.2 db7 with around 60 K miles, what should I look out for?
Where to begin?1. A/C evaporator failure. Requiring an entire dashboard removal, heaterbox removal and strip Down to repair. Costs a fortune. If the ac doesn't work shine an led torch up the drain tubes an check for green slime. Walk if there is some...
2. Fuel filler drain blocked. Check under the fuel flap. If it's blocked with leaves/debris it's likely water has found it's way into the fuel tank. Pump failure, Injector failure etc then likely
3. Timing chain rattle. Massively expensive to fix
4. Trailing arm bush failure, mounting point corrosion, six-shooter bushes worn, torn V-mounts. Check ALL the bushes and joints. They can be costly to replace dependant on which one needs it.
5.Water Ingress into car. Check the carpets are dry, including under the seats. As well as the obvious undesirable damp smell, water ingress gets into the electrics wreaking havoc.
6. Whining, or clunking from rear diff. Sometimes caused by wheel bearings or CV joints but also the diff itself, which is a costly overhaul
7. Lack of power on hard acceleration. These have a second fuel pump which kicks in when the supercharger is boosting. A huge flat spot is an indicator that it isn't working. Refer to point 2!
8. Radiator leaking between core and end-tank. It's a pig of a job, (all the rads lift out as a "cooling pack") and very expensive to replace the radiator so make sure there are no coolant stains around it.
9. Corrosion. Look for rust on the front inner wings close to the shock absorber mountings. Also examine the front crossmember, they corrode and it's a huge job (and cost) to repair it correctly.
10. Uneven tyre wear. The suspension is the same design as an ancient jag xjs. It is a very labour intensive job to accurately setup the geometery. The front geo has adjustable Toe, camber and Caster. The camber and caster is set with shims. It can take many labour hours even for someone that knows them well to setup. A poorly setup car will handle like absolute crap...
11. Vibration through steering wheel/car. The multi-spoke wheels are made out of Philadelphia cheese so are often Buckled. Be aware of vibrations, signs of cheapo wheel refurbs. New rims are expensive. The earliest cars came with hooge wheel centre caps. (Known as "soup plate trims") If they are still fitted, they need ditching and the later, smaller cap fitting. The early type block airflow to the front brakes and cause them to overheat.
12. Dash leather shrinkage. Especially around the instrument cluster area. It requires dash out and a skilled trimmer to repair, using a large, top quality hide. Grease yourself up for that one!
13. Wood veneers discoloured/cracked. A specialist job that can be pretty pricy to repair. Watch out for veneers that have been hydro-dipped with wood effect, fake carbon etc to hide damaged original veneers...
That should do you (to start with)! Personally, I'd be getting a proper inspection carried out, it's easy to loose many many thousands of pounds if you buy a dog. And there are plenty of dogs. Personally, I'd try to find a manual. They are a better drive. Also, the early soup-plate cars had the huge clumpy high-back seats which are not exactly pretty, though they don't have the bus-like airbag equipped steering wheel of the later cars.
Cerberaherts said:
gillimont said:
I'm looking to buy a 3.2 db7 with around 60 K miles, what should I look out for?
Where to begin?1. A/C evaporator failure. Requiring an entire dashboard removal, heaterbox removal and strip Down to repair. Costs a fortune. If the ac doesn't work shine an led torch up the drain tubes an check for green slime. Walk if there is some...
2. Fuel filler drain blocked. Check under the fuel flap. If it's blocked with leaves/debris it's likely water has found it's way into the fuel tank. Pump failure, Injector failure etc then likely
3. Timing chain rattle. Massively expensive to fix
4. Trailing arm bush failure, mounting point corrosion, six-shooter bushes worn, torn V-mounts. Check ALL the bushes and joints. They can be costly to replace dependant on which one needs it.
5.Water Ingress into car. Check the carpets are dry, including under the seats. As well as the obvious undesirable damp smell, water ingress gets into the electrics wreaking havoc.
6. Whining, or clunking from rear diff. Sometimes caused by wheel bearings or CV joints but also the diff itself, which is a costly overhaul
7. Lack of power on hard acceleration. These have a second fuel pump which kicks in when the supercharger is boosting. A huge flat spot is an indicator that it isn't working. Refer to point 2!
8. Radiator leaking between core and end-tank. It's a pig of a job, (all the rads lift out as a "cooling pack") and very expensive to replace the radiator so make sure there are no coolant stains around it.
9. Corrosion. Look for rust on the front inner wings close to the shock absorber mountings. Also examine the front crossmember, they corrode and it's a huge job (and cost) to repair it correctly.
10. Uneven tyre wear. The suspension is the same design as an ancient jag xjs. It is a very labour intensive job to accurately setup the geometery. The front geo has adjustable Toe, camber and Caster. The camber and caster is set with shims. It can take many labour hours even for someone that knows them well to setup. A poorly setup car will handle like absolute crap...
11. Vibration through steering wheel/car. The multi-spoke wheels are made out of Philadelphia cheese so are often Buckled. Be aware of vibrations, signs of cheapo wheel refurbs. New rims are expensive. The earliest cars came with hooge wheel centre caps. (Known as "soup plate trims") If they are still fitted, they need ditching and the later, smaller cap fitting. The early type block airflow to the front brakes and cause them to overheat.
12. Dash leather shrinkage. Especially around the instrument cluster area. It requires dash out and a skilled trimmer to repair, using a large, top quality hide. Grease yourself up for that one!
13. Wood veneers discoloured/cracked. A specialist job that can be pretty pricy to repair. Watch out for veneers that have been hydro-dipped with wood effect, fake carbon etc to hide damaged original veneers...
That should do you (to start with)! Personally, I'd be getting a proper inspection carried out, it's easy to loose many many thousands of pounds if you buy a dog. And there are plenty of dogs. Personally, I'd try to find a manual. They are a better drive. Also, the early soup-plate cars had the huge clumpy high-back seats which are not exactly pretty, though they don't have the bus-like airbag equipped steering wheel of the later cars.
Blimey.
I have owned a
DB7 i6
DB7 V12 Vantage
DB9 (present car)
The DB7 i6 can only be described as agricultural compared to the DB9 .......the auto box is awful and bits of car did have a habit of dropping off.....The V12 Vantage was a much better car in terms of driver enjoyment and performance and seemed to be put together far better than the i6
DB9 is a world apart from the other 2 ......it's a totally modern feeling car and a pleasure to drive always
Good luck in whatever you go for
DB7 i6
DB7 V12 Vantage
DB9 (present car)
The DB7 i6 can only be described as agricultural compared to the DB9 .......the auto box is awful and bits of car did have a habit of dropping off.....The V12 Vantage was a much better car in terms of driver enjoyment and performance and seemed to be put together far better than the i6
DB9 is a world apart from the other 2 ......it's a totally modern feeling car and a pleasure to drive always
Good luck in whatever you go for
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