Buying checklist for a 4.3 vantage
Discussion
Hi guys,
I've tried searching, but haven't hit gold yet.
I plan to buy a early 4.3 vantage this weekend, and will inspect the car myself. Is there a checklist anywhere that people can point me to, or a list of known issues to look out for?
I'm a lot less worried about buying an Aston than my previous TVR, have I false sense of security here? From what I've seen, the cars are pretty reliable save paint issues on the door handles and that's about it!
If someone could point me in the right direction for guidance, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Stu
I've tried searching, but haven't hit gold yet.
I plan to buy a early 4.3 vantage this weekend, and will inspect the car myself. Is there a checklist anywhere that people can point me to, or a list of known issues to look out for?
I'm a lot less worried about buying an Aston than my previous TVR, have I false sense of security here? From what I've seen, the cars are pretty reliable save paint issues on the door handles and that's about it!
If someone could point me in the right direction for guidance, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Stu
All you really need is a pair of red trousers and you are good to go.
That's not very helpful is it? There is a great book available that I would recommend but you won't be able to buy it before the weekend so I can only recommend common sense. These cars are pretty strong mechanically. If in doubt take it to a dealer for a check up before parting with your cash.
That's not very helpful is it? There is a great book available that I would recommend but you won't be able to buy it before the weekend so I can only recommend common sense. These cars are pretty strong mechanically. If in doubt take it to a dealer for a check up before parting with your cash.
No major problems with mine in the time I had it. Servicing and parts are pricey though so well worth few quid on an inspection since if anything is amiss it will hurt. In terms of spec, I think the piano black dash looks so much better than the Matt one. And I gather the Sat Nav is close to useless so not a loss if inot spec'd (I didn't have it). Good luck and enjoy it.
I bought an early vantage in April and it's cost me a fair bit to put it right (I sort of knew what I was getting into with mine) so bear the following in mind:
Brakes. Check how much material is left on the pads and make sure the grooves in the discs are still fairly deep. Discs and pads all round are very pricey (£1500+ even at indy rates, much more at a dealer). If it squeals during slow manoeuvring or when cornering it's probably a sign of worn brakes. Mine was really bad until I got them changed, caused by the handbrake pads rubbing on the knackered discs.
Make sure you start it from cold. I discovered the cats were rattling on mine, but only really noticeable when cold. Unfortunately when I went to test it etc this wasn't really audible as the car was already warm. You'd hear it from warm if you could get under the car and have someone rev it. This isn't a common problem but not unheard of.
Make sure it starts properly first time every time when warm and cold. Mine was difficult to start when warm which turned out to be an injector so cheap fix. Also sit in it when its warm and idling and see if there are any misfires or shaking. These cars should tick over pretty smoothly.
Check the service history thoroughly - even though the book is stamped check invoices if you can. Transaxle oil should be done at 40k, spark plugs at 70k etc (have a look here http://www.astonmartin.com/en/ownership/servicing)
The clutch is a known weak point in these. A rough lifetime seems to be around 40k, although some have got far more, some less. Mine was replaced at 36k. It's now on 64k and shows no signs of excess wear so it really does depend on how you drive it.
Difficulty getting into second gear or a slight crunch when cold is fairly normal. I had my gearbox oil changed recently which made it slightly better but still noticeable.
Check the aircon blows cold, mine had to have a new compressor under warranty as it was leaking. The air con on these isn't brilliant but definitely should work.
Check the engine is getting up to temperature. The temp dial should sit at bang on 9 o clock. if it's sat around 7/8 after around 10 mins of driving and doesn't improve the thermostat needs replacing. Fairly common problem and they only seem to last around 4-5 years.
One of the things you will find is that they are a bit temperamental. Mine can be good as gold one day, the next full of dashboard rattles! I think a lot depends on ambient temperatures and going over a big bump can sometimes set it off. As with mine, there will be things you don't pick up on during the viewing/test drive. Just inspect it as thoroughly as you can or get an indy/dealer to do a pre purchase inspection. Could save you a lot of money in the long run! As said above, parts are expensive, however Indy labour rates are just under £100 an hour, compared to £180-200 at main dealers.
Enjoy!
Brakes. Check how much material is left on the pads and make sure the grooves in the discs are still fairly deep. Discs and pads all round are very pricey (£1500+ even at indy rates, much more at a dealer). If it squeals during slow manoeuvring or when cornering it's probably a sign of worn brakes. Mine was really bad until I got them changed, caused by the handbrake pads rubbing on the knackered discs.
Make sure you start it from cold. I discovered the cats were rattling on mine, but only really noticeable when cold. Unfortunately when I went to test it etc this wasn't really audible as the car was already warm. You'd hear it from warm if you could get under the car and have someone rev it. This isn't a common problem but not unheard of.
Make sure it starts properly first time every time when warm and cold. Mine was difficult to start when warm which turned out to be an injector so cheap fix. Also sit in it when its warm and idling and see if there are any misfires or shaking. These cars should tick over pretty smoothly.
Check the service history thoroughly - even though the book is stamped check invoices if you can. Transaxle oil should be done at 40k, spark plugs at 70k etc (have a look here http://www.astonmartin.com/en/ownership/servicing)
The clutch is a known weak point in these. A rough lifetime seems to be around 40k, although some have got far more, some less. Mine was replaced at 36k. It's now on 64k and shows no signs of excess wear so it really does depend on how you drive it.
Difficulty getting into second gear or a slight crunch when cold is fairly normal. I had my gearbox oil changed recently which made it slightly better but still noticeable.
Check the aircon blows cold, mine had to have a new compressor under warranty as it was leaking. The air con on these isn't brilliant but definitely should work.
Check the engine is getting up to temperature. The temp dial should sit at bang on 9 o clock. if it's sat around 7/8 after around 10 mins of driving and doesn't improve the thermostat needs replacing. Fairly common problem and they only seem to last around 4-5 years.
One of the things you will find is that they are a bit temperamental. Mine can be good as gold one day, the next full of dashboard rattles! I think a lot depends on ambient temperatures and going over a big bump can sometimes set it off. As with mine, there will be things you don't pick up on during the viewing/test drive. Just inspect it as thoroughly as you can or get an indy/dealer to do a pre purchase inspection. Could save you a lot of money in the long run! As said above, parts are expensive, however Indy labour rates are just under £100 an hour, compared to £180-200 at main dealers.
Enjoy!
Thanks all, especially shrimpvende. A very useful post.
Fortunately, the car I'm expecting to collect is covered under AM premium warranty, so I'm assuming that minimises risk to me quite substantially, as fundamentally, if there was anything up with engine/gearbox/suspension, it'd be sorted by the current owner.
Clutch is a Gamble, it will be one of those things if I need a new one Ill have to deal with it. Incidentally, can you fit a twin plate/reduced mass flywheel if still under am warranty? I'd prefer the improved throttle response and a clutch change would be a good excuse to do that.....
Brakes are a good point, I'll take my micrometer with me to ensure the discs arent near end of life.
Best
Stuart
Fortunately, the car I'm expecting to collect is covered under AM premium warranty, so I'm assuming that minimises risk to me quite substantially, as fundamentally, if there was anything up with engine/gearbox/suspension, it'd be sorted by the current owner.
Clutch is a Gamble, it will be one of those things if I need a new one Ill have to deal with it. Incidentally, can you fit a twin plate/reduced mass flywheel if still under am warranty? I'd prefer the improved throttle response and a clutch change would be a good excuse to do that.....
Brakes are a good point, I'll take my micrometer with me to ensure the discs arent near end of life.
Best
Stuart
I don't think they would know if you'd had the clutch changed if you didn't say anything - hardly going to take it apart to find out! There may be a small risk if your car developed a gearbox problem though.
Mine was also covered under the warranty when I bought it but I've found that even the 'premium' cover which I have doesn't cover everything. It doesn't cover anything exhaust related and was difficult to get a couple of bits done - my handbrake cable was literally about to snap and at first they refused the dealer's request. It was only when the dealer persisted on my behalf that it was authorised. It also obviously doesn't cover any consumables, so brakes, suspension etc need a good check over before buying.
PS - it isn't the black one with a cream interior is it?
Mine was also covered under the warranty when I bought it but I've found that even the 'premium' cover which I have doesn't cover everything. It doesn't cover anything exhaust related and was difficult to get a couple of bits done - my handbrake cable was literally about to snap and at first they refused the dealer's request. It was only when the dealer persisted on my behalf that it was authorised. It also obviously doesn't cover any consumables, so brakes, suspension etc need a good check over before buying.
PS - it isn't the black one with a cream interior is it?
Stuart,
just to add to what Shrimpvende has mentioned,
Mine has had a few things come up in servicing over the years, most of which are not serious, so may not have been done by everyone, but will need doing at some point.
If it is a Sportshift, they can leak oil from the ASM sensor assembly. This is about £750 form a dealer, but will be much cheaper if combined with a clutch replacement.
You should also check for the oil separator leaking (inexpensive) and potentially the engine weeping from front cover (expensive).
Also check the brake flexi hoses as these corrode.
lastly, check the lower arm suspension bushes front and rear as these separate from the suspension arms over time and need replacing at about £1300.
Rich.
just to add to what Shrimpvende has mentioned,
Mine has had a few things come up in servicing over the years, most of which are not serious, so may not have been done by everyone, but will need doing at some point.
If it is a Sportshift, they can leak oil from the ASM sensor assembly. This is about £750 form a dealer, but will be much cheaper if combined with a clutch replacement.
You should also check for the oil separator leaking (inexpensive) and potentially the engine weeping from front cover (expensive).
Also check the brake flexi hoses as these corrode.
lastly, check the lower arm suspension bushes front and rear as these separate from the suspension arms over time and need replacing at about £1300.
Rich.
The "warranty" covers major component failures rather than "stuff wearing out". Most of the expense on an earlier Vantage can be when "stuff wears out" ...and at the same time. Once you are on top of the maintenance or start with a well maintained car, you can often get away with "just" a £600 yearly service.
So as per any used car, its check the condition of consumables; tyres, pads, discs....these alone are £2500+ if all need doing at same time
The original clutch lasted 70 odd thousand miles, and was replaced with newer factory part at indy for £2300, which was much lighter to use.
On my 2006 4.3, during 10 years/83k miles the other non consumable failures/changes were;
wheel bearing packs (x3)
thermostat
aux drive belt & pulley
O2 sensors
ABS pressure sensor
air con compressor
coolant tank sensor (x2)
Other than the drive belt/pulley, all the rest needed doing from 40-80k miles.
None of the above issues on their own were more than a few hundred quid to fix. However, with a repair every couple of years, a service and pair of tyres or discs/pads then £2k a year is easy to do in service/maintenance, even at independent rates.
Dealers have fixed price servicing now which is an option, it gets you through their door. Expect to pay full wack for anything else though (£450 per axle for brake pads etc)
Spend £20 on "the book" from Grant here www.astonmartinreview.co.uk for all the knowledge you need on these lovely vehicles......
Good luck, post pics when you get it
So as per any used car, its check the condition of consumables; tyres, pads, discs....these alone are £2500+ if all need doing at same time
The original clutch lasted 70 odd thousand miles, and was replaced with newer factory part at indy for £2300, which was much lighter to use.
On my 2006 4.3, during 10 years/83k miles the other non consumable failures/changes were;
wheel bearing packs (x3)
thermostat
aux drive belt & pulley
O2 sensors
ABS pressure sensor
air con compressor
coolant tank sensor (x2)
Other than the drive belt/pulley, all the rest needed doing from 40-80k miles.
None of the above issues on their own were more than a few hundred quid to fix. However, with a repair every couple of years, a service and pair of tyres or discs/pads then £2k a year is easy to do in service/maintenance, even at independent rates.
Dealers have fixed price servicing now which is an option, it gets you through their door. Expect to pay full wack for anything else though (£450 per axle for brake pads etc)
Spend £20 on "the book" from Grant here www.astonmartinreview.co.uk for all the knowledge you need on these lovely vehicles......
Good luck, post pics when you get it

^ Bang on. Just for info, this is the list of stuff I've had done to mine in the couple of months since buying (mostly maintenance and you can see what has and hasn't been covered by warranty)
new discs and pads all round (including handbrake)
new handbrake cable (warranty)
new purge valve (warranty)
new drivers door strut (warranty)
new air con compressor (warranty)
injector replaced (warranty)
exhaust cats replaced (rattling)
replaced RH side indicator repeater
new aux belt and updated pulley
new spark plugs
new power steering fluid and additive flush
new gearbox oil
engine oil change
That little lot has run me to around £4k so far as I've been very careful with sourcing parts and where the work has been done. If all done at main dealers it would cost far far more. If buying a higher mileage car make sure this sort of stuff has been done or factored into the asking price. Spark plugs should be done at 7 years even if the mileage is <70k.
new discs and pads all round (including handbrake)
new handbrake cable (warranty)
new purge valve (warranty)
new drivers door strut (warranty)
new air con compressor (warranty)
injector replaced (warranty)
exhaust cats replaced (rattling)
replaced RH side indicator repeater
new aux belt and updated pulley
new spark plugs
new power steering fluid and additive flush
new gearbox oil
engine oil change
That little lot has run me to around £4k so far as I've been very careful with sourcing parts and where the work has been done. If all done at main dealers it would cost far far more. If buying a higher mileage car make sure this sort of stuff has been done or factored into the asking price. Spark plugs should be done at 7 years even if the mileage is <70k.
Hi all,
Shrimp - ouch inside 2 months that must sting - hope you knew it was coming in the price you paid for the car.
Roopster - manual this time, although SS was temping (I'd get a V8S if I wanted SS)
Bogie - thanks too. I'm pretty sure some 7-10 years back we conversed on Seloc. thanks for your advice.
I spoke with the supplying and servicing dealer today who confirmed the status of car was as described. Fingers crossed this one works out. I feel like I'm tempting fate, but this seems a lot less scary than buying a Cerebra based on what I'm seeing so far. We shall see how tomorrow goes, hopefully the photos didn't lie, which they sometimes do.
Best,
Stu
Shrimp - ouch inside 2 months that must sting - hope you knew it was coming in the price you paid for the car.
Roopster - manual this time, although SS was temping (I'd get a V8S if I wanted SS)
Bogie - thanks too. I'm pretty sure some 7-10 years back we conversed on Seloc. thanks for your advice.
I spoke with the supplying and servicing dealer today who confirmed the status of car was as described. Fingers crossed this one works out. I feel like I'm tempting fate, but this seems a lot less scary than buying a Cerebra based on what I'm seeing so far. We shall see how tomorrow goes, hopefully the photos didn't lie, which they sometimes do.
Best,
Stu
Stu
I've done 15,000km in mine in 12 months and it has performed faultlessly
A few things being done under warranty
Drivers door strut
Bonnet struts
Steering hydraulic pump - you can hear it when turning steering wheel
Door mirror module
Clutch has been fine ( just don't reverse up a hill ) now at 45,000 km
Good luck and enjoy
Graeme
I've done 15,000km in mine in 12 months and it has performed faultlessly
A few things being done under warranty
Drivers door strut
Bonnet struts
Steering hydraulic pump - you can hear it when turning steering wheel
Door mirror module
Clutch has been fine ( just don't reverse up a hill ) now at 45,000 km
Good luck and enjoy
Graeme
Well that went OK.
I'm now the owner of what, for a 10 year old car, I can only describe as a mint 4.3 vantage!
The seller was an ace chap, the car was exactly as described, I will do my utmost to keep it in the condition it's currently in, but that will be a tall order.
It's a bit of a funny one me buying the vantage. Truth be told I was buying it as much for my dad as me, as I'd have got a cerbera if I wasnt sharing the car based on my vantage test drives to date... But now it's mine..... I LOVE IT.
I don't know why, but this car felt so taught, feedback was much much better than I remembered from other test drives, suspension and chassis really tight, engine amazing. Only criticism is Gearbox action - I'd say it is the worst component of the package so far for me (1st is notchy and I dont find it a 'nice' linkage compared to something like a cerbera, it's far less positive and a long throw), but I'll build muscle memory and it will be fine. Brakes feel like they're going to be stonking, although late last night (after 60 mile) I did get some low speed juddering - felt like sticking pad or pad deposit. May have been after using handbrake at top of a hill whilst brakes hot. I'll keep eye on this.
The lights autoadjust seems to work, but they are aligned very low - only about 20m infront of car - Any way to adjust up?
The noise is just epic. I felt like a Qatari trust fund idiot driving up kings Road, marble Arch, Park lane etc.. Through London In the sun yesterday. Slotted into Park lane underground car park to.meet my girlfriend for A nice evening in Hyde Park listening to the Killers concert over the wind catered, naturally, by the harrods food Hall. Loads of people milling around after the pride event too, so an awesome love filled vibe on a balmy evening.
If Heineken sold cars, yesterday would have been their handover day template.
Now I've got to wash the bugs off.
I'm now the owner of what, for a 10 year old car, I can only describe as a mint 4.3 vantage!
The seller was an ace chap, the car was exactly as described, I will do my utmost to keep it in the condition it's currently in, but that will be a tall order.
It's a bit of a funny one me buying the vantage. Truth be told I was buying it as much for my dad as me, as I'd have got a cerbera if I wasnt sharing the car based on my vantage test drives to date... But now it's mine..... I LOVE IT.
I don't know why, but this car felt so taught, feedback was much much better than I remembered from other test drives, suspension and chassis really tight, engine amazing. Only criticism is Gearbox action - I'd say it is the worst component of the package so far for me (1st is notchy and I dont find it a 'nice' linkage compared to something like a cerbera, it's far less positive and a long throw), but I'll build muscle memory and it will be fine. Brakes feel like they're going to be stonking, although late last night (after 60 mile) I did get some low speed juddering - felt like sticking pad or pad deposit. May have been after using handbrake at top of a hill whilst brakes hot. I'll keep eye on this.
The lights autoadjust seems to work, but they are aligned very low - only about 20m infront of car - Any way to adjust up?
The noise is just epic. I felt like a Qatari trust fund idiot driving up kings Road, marble Arch, Park lane etc.. Through London In the sun yesterday. Slotted into Park lane underground car park to.meet my girlfriend for A nice evening in Hyde Park listening to the Killers concert over the wind catered, naturally, by the harrods food Hall. Loads of people milling around after the pride event too, so an awesome love filled vibe on a balmy evening.
If Heineken sold cars, yesterday would have been their handover day template.
Now I've got to wash the bugs off.
Congrats Stu...I do remember you from Elise and Tuscan days too 
You car may be due a gearbox oil change (every 40k miles) its surprising what difference the later spec oil can do. Recently had the oil changed on my 2012 Roadster and noticed improvement immediately. On the older cars there was a gearbox service item/mod that could be done. Check if yours had it done, it was around 2007/8 time frame.

You car may be due a gearbox oil change (every 40k miles) its surprising what difference the later spec oil can do. Recently had the oil changed on my 2012 Roadster and noticed improvement immediately. On the older cars there was a gearbox service item/mod that could be done. Check if yours had it done, it was around 2007/8 time frame.
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