DB9 brake pin removal issues.
Discussion
sorry to start a separate thread.
but i wanted to share this issue with any future DIY’ers.
so after many attempts to remove pin with no success i took it to a friends garage.
used a lump hammer, the lower pin moved but the upper pin is corroded solid at the collar.
the pin is totally bent.
this will mean removing the caliper, cutting the pin out, and drilling out the corroded part.
this has happened to both my rear calipers.
pins cost about 35 pounds for a pair.
but i wanted to share this issue with any future DIY’ers.
so after many attempts to remove pin with no success i took it to a friends garage.
used a lump hammer, the lower pin moved but the upper pin is corroded solid at the collar.
the pin is totally bent.
this will mean removing the caliper, cutting the pin out, and drilling out the corroded part.
this has happened to both my rear calipers.
pins cost about 35 pounds for a pair.
These calipers are notorious for seized pins, I tackled some on an Alfa Brera, my usual penetrating concoction of 50/50 atf and thinners didn't work so it was down to heating and brute force, took up most of a day to complete.
I removed the pistons before using heat, a couple were stuck as well, these calipers seem unsuited for an everyday road car but I suspect tfr and pressure washing helps the corrosion along.
The pins need taking out and regreasing regularly as I suspect the holes will eventually corrode oversize if left to seize repeatedly. Anyhow even if you pay for this it will work out less than removing the calipers and buying new pins every time you need pads.
I removed the pistons before using heat, a couple were stuck as well, these calipers seem unsuited for an everyday road car but I suspect tfr and pressure washing helps the corrosion along.
The pins need taking out and regreasing regularly as I suspect the holes will eventually corrode oversize if left to seize repeatedly. Anyhow even if you pay for this it will work out less than removing the calipers and buying new pins every time you need pads.
Doing this job on rears soon. I have already sourced the correct pin punches and will be getting Porterfield R4S's as there is no way I'm paying £550 for some rear pads fitted - surely a typo!!! 
What do you recommend to put on the pins going back in to prevent them corroding? Can't say I have ever put any substance on pins in the past. Do the pins themselves corrode so is it worth putting a new set in on a keeper who's next pad change will be in 5+ years (although my Rapide may have different pins/callipers to a DB9?)
What do you recommend to put on the pins going back in to prevent them corroding? Can't say I have ever put any substance on pins in the past. Do the pins themselves corrode so is it worth putting a new set in on a keeper who's next pad change will be in 5+ years (although my Rapide may have different pins/callipers to a DB9?)
Ken Figenus said:
Doing this job on rears soon. I have already sourced the correct pin punches and will be getting Porterfield R4S's as there is no way I'm paying £550 for some rear pads fitted - surely a typo!!!
What do you recommend to put on the pins going back in to prevent them corroding? Can't say I have ever put any substance on pins in the past. Do the pins themselves corrode so is it worth putting a new set in on a keeper who's next pad change will be in 5+ years (although my Rapide may have different pins/callipers to a DB9?)
I gave my pins a little sanding just to take off any rust/high spots and smeared them in some Mintex Ceratec (anti brake squeal lube). Seemed to do the trick and not had any problems so far. I believe the Mintex Ceratec is a better solution than copper seize. What do you recommend to put on the pins going back in to prevent them corroding? Can't say I have ever put any substance on pins in the past. Do the pins themselves corrode so is it worth putting a new set in on a keeper who's next pad change will be in 5+ years (although my Rapide may have different pins/callipers to a DB9?)
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