Vantage 05-18 - Door Latch - Volvo Part No
Discussion
Hi
If you have trouble with your doors locking, change the latch first. It's an easier and cheaper take than the locking computer modulr units.
Here's the Aston Part No
Here's the Volvo part, that's printed onto the part itself.
Hope my spending money saves someone money!
If you have trouble with your doors locking, change the latch first. It's an easier and cheaper take than the locking computer modulr units.
Here's the Aston Part No
Here's the Volvo part, that's printed onto the part itself.
Hope my spending money saves someone money!
Edited by rossyl on Wednesday 2nd October 10:17
The characteristic tell-tale indicating that the latch motor is at fault, is a ‘bounce’ back to unlock when pressing lock. However, the bounce can happen when the current supplied from the door module is weak. To diagnose with certainty which component is at fault (when the problem is not mechanical or alignment) is never certain enough in the workshop environment. For this reason we carry workshop slave components to plug and play to uncover the underlying issue.
The whole locking / window operation door module and latch errors on early cars is really infuriating as those components should be for the life of the car. The only upside is that when an older level car is updated to the newer modules, problems don’t seem to reoccur.
The whole locking / window operation door module and latch errors on early cars is really infuriating as those components should be for the life of the car. The only upside is that when an older level car is updated to the newer modules, problems don’t seem to reoccur.
Whilst that is true Mike, a competent DIY'r could attempt a fix of this for £30, by buying and fitting this part.
The door modules are more complicated and require coding. Hence the latch, for a low price, seems a sensible place to start.
Further, a DIY'r would also save your costs of analysis, if they attempted this fix and it worked.
Just trying to keep the costs of ownership down. Rather than put off owners from attempting simple fixes themselves.
Good luck all.
The door modules are more complicated and require coding. Hence the latch, for a low price, seems a sensible place to start.
Further, a DIY'r would also save your costs of analysis, if they attempted this fix and it worked.
Just trying to keep the costs of ownership down. Rather than put off owners from attempting simple fixes themselves.
Good luck all.
Edited by rossyl on Wednesday 2nd October 10:16
rossyl said:
Whilst that is true Mike, a competent DIY'r could attempt a fix of this for £30, by buying and fitting this part.
The door modules are more complicated and require coding. Hence the latch, for a low price, seems a sensible place to start.
Further, a DIY'r would also save your costs of analysis, if they attempted this fix and it worked.
Just trying to keep the costs of ownership down. Rather than put off owners from attempting simple fixes themselves.
Good luck all.
I agree your sentiment and aim, all I’m doing is putting some further data to the diagnosis process to make it a tad more scientific and concur that even in the garage world, correct diagnosis is problematic hence the slave components route.The door modules are more complicated and require coding. Hence the latch, for a low price, seems a sensible place to start.
Further, a DIY'r would also save your costs of analysis, if they attempted this fix and it worked.
Just trying to keep the costs of ownership down. Rather than put off owners from attempting simple fixes themselves.
Good luck all.
Edited by rossyl on Wednesday 2nd October 10:16
The best / easiest at home bit of diagnostics would be to advise disconnecting the fuses to the door modules and then reconnect. If that in any way alters the locking “bounce”, even if it only locked once, the problem is most likely door modules. I think the latch is now a wee bit more expensive than the price you state!!
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