05 db9 ac pipe
Discussion
I have had that pipe out a couple of times when pulling the motor.
My recommendation is order all the O-rings for the line, and the other line that attaches to the AC Compressor. Buy some PAG compatible AC o-ring grease (R-134). bought mine on amazon...
Remove the Alternator to get better access to the AC compressor. Unbolt the AC compressor till it can't come down any further without dropping off the bolts. Clean everything on top of the compressor with brake cleaner/wipe it down well... the bolts holding the pipes come out and there is an alignment pin holding the connector in, along with the o-rings. It comes straight out with a little wiggling.
Be patient...
My recommendation is order all the O-rings for the line, and the other line that attaches to the AC Compressor. Buy some PAG compatible AC o-ring grease (R-134). bought mine on amazon...
Remove the Alternator to get better access to the AC compressor. Unbolt the AC compressor till it can't come down any further without dropping off the bolts. Clean everything on top of the compressor with brake cleaner/wipe it down well... the bolts holding the pipes come out and there is an alignment pin holding the connector in, along with the o-rings. It comes straight out with a little wiggling.
Be patient...
You can get anything fixed. I rebuilt my transaxle oil cooler pipes in 1.5mm stainless. Used the existing connections to the oil cooler and then nut and olive to connect to the stainless pipe.
The pic is another set of oil cooler pipes I had re-done, although these were original pipes which were zinc plated to as new. The top pipe in this pic with the red pipe seal, shows how the nut and olive works with the existing connection pipe. Seek out your local Pirtek outfit. They do hydraulic connections and can just replace the crimped bit with a new nut & olive.
https://www.pirtek.co.uk/service-centres
If you want to go down the route of re-doing in stainless, You'll also need to get a length of stainless pipe off eBay in the correct diameter and ask Pirtek to put you in touch with someone who can bend the pipe for you as they don't do pipe bending.
1m of stainless pipe is about £10, bending say £30ish, hose/nuts/olives say £30.
I managed to get both oil cooler pipes remade for £140 all in. New price for AML parts was well over £600 and mine will outlast the car.
You just need to ensure that you're not mixing metals as aluminium/mild steel/stainless don't work well together, so ensure that you have rubber flexi hose between different metal types (mild steel for the original connections, stainless for the long sections) and the correct nut/olive for the metal.
The pic is another set of oil cooler pipes I had re-done, although these were original pipes which were zinc plated to as new. The top pipe in this pic with the red pipe seal, shows how the nut and olive works with the existing connection pipe. Seek out your local Pirtek outfit. They do hydraulic connections and can just replace the crimped bit with a new nut & olive.
https://www.pirtek.co.uk/service-centres
If you want to go down the route of re-doing in stainless, You'll also need to get a length of stainless pipe off eBay in the correct diameter and ask Pirtek to put you in touch with someone who can bend the pipe for you as they don't do pipe bending.
1m of stainless pipe is about £10, bending say £30ish, hose/nuts/olives say £30.
I managed to get both oil cooler pipes remade for £140 all in. New price for AML parts was well over £600 and mine will outlast the car.
You just need to ensure that you're not mixing metals as aluminium/mild steel/stainless don't work well together, so ensure that you have rubber flexi hose between different metal types (mild steel for the original connections, stainless for the long sections) and the correct nut/olive for the metal.
Edited by JonnyCJ on Friday 28th August 14:01
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