2006 DB9 for sale with Tappet noise
Discussion
I have been looking at a 2006 DB9 with almost 90k miles. It's described as having "occasional tappet noise, which is believed to be a common fault with valves in the hydraulic lifters losing pressure - and is understood to cost around £1,500 to fix."
It's for sale for £18.5k
Anyone had this issue and is this estimate accurate?
Many thanks
Belfry
It's for sale for £18.5k
Anyone had this issue and is this estimate accurate?
Many thanks
Belfry
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2006-aston-mar...
I’m not even sure if it’s the tappet noise that would put me off. It is ‘cheap’ though - nothing on AutoTrader has dropped below the £20k mark.
I’m not even sure if it’s the tappet noise that would put me off. It is ‘cheap’ though - nothing on AutoTrader has dropped below the £20k mark.
I asked the vendor about the "dreaded DB9 engine tick", and referred him to the videos from Bamford Rose.
However, I understand that there is a difference between the engine tick (as described and shown in the BR vids) and tappet noise.
Have any owners on here had the tappet noise, and what did it cost to fix please?
However, I understand that there is a difference between the engine tick (as described and shown in the BR vids) and tappet noise.
Have any owners on here had the tappet noise, and what did it cost to fix please?
belfry said:
That is the car!
What else would put you off? You might save me making an idiot of myself.
“ Other imperfections are presented honestly and shown in the gallery, including some minor bubbling at the bottom of the nearside door, the A-pillar, wheel arch, and a couple of spots around the door handles.”What else would put you off? You might save me making an idiot of myself.
It may be down to my first car being an MG Midget and constantly battling rust bubbles - but it’s always put me off as rectifying it to a good standard is so hard, as this photo shows -
belfry said:
I asked the vendor about the "dreaded DB9 engine tick", and referred him to the videos from Bamford Rose.
However, I understand that there is a difference between the engine tick (as described and shown in the BR vids) and tappet noise.
Have any owners on here had the tappet noise, and what did it cost to fix please?
Most of the niggly things are fixable by a semi competent home mechanic, however, the tappet noise is one I would want clarity on before parting with my money. BR are probably the best placed to advise/do that given their recent video. Might be worth getting a video of the engine running/revving and emailing it to Mike at BR for an opinion ?However, I understand that there is a difference between the engine tick (as described and shown in the BR vids) and tappet noise.
Have any owners on here had the tappet noise, and what did it cost to fix please?
Someone clear this up for me please.....I've watched the video (the first BR one) and I'm a bit confused! He says it's predominantly in cars affected 'from chassis number something like 1800 onwards...' because that's the swap from Cosworth to AMEP engines and explains the engine codes AM04/0... and AM04/1... but then kind of says the Cosworth engines are more likely to have it. My car is approx. chassis number 3500 (obviously well after 1800) but has an AM04/1 (AMEP?) engine. Am Imissing something?
Edited by Wilky7 on Tuesday 3rd November 18:49
Years ago, there was a DB9 owner who amazed us with his descriptions and photographs of him dismantling the engine, to cure a ticking sound.
Each time he became stuck with the project and posted here seeking help, we were perhaps somewhat unkind by hinting that he might have taken on too much.
As soon as the engine was reassembled, he immediately set off in the DB9 to Norway, for some ice driving.
I believe there was a second dismantling, but even then, I don't think the engine noise was cured, but we never really heard the end of the story.
Wilky7 said:
Someone clear this up for me please.....I've watched the video (the first BR one) and I'm a bit confused! He says it's predominantly in cars affected 'from chassis number something like 1800 onwards...' because that's the swap from Cosworth to AMEP engines and explains the engine codes AM04/0... and AM04/1... but then kind of says the Cosworth engines are more likely to have it. My car is approx. chassis number 3500 (obviously well after 1800) but has an AM04/1 (AMEP?) engine. Am Imissing something?
Yeah, I thought that when I saw that video, he must of mean't cars upto VIN 1800 (ish) as that was the changeover to AMEP engines.Edited by Wilky7 on Tuesday 3rd November 18:49
Your engine is an AMEP engine
Jon39 said:
Years ago, there was a DB9 owner who amazed us with his descriptions and photographs of him dismantling the engine, to cure a ticking sound.
Each time he became stuck with the project and posted here seeking help, we were perhaps somewhat unkind by hinting that he might have taken on too much.
As soon as the engine was reassembled, he immediately set off in the DB9 to Norway, for some ice driving.
I believe there was a second dismantling, but even then, I don't think the engine noise was cured, but we never really heard the end of the story.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=12...
paulrog1 said:
Yeah, I thought that when I saw that video, he must of mean't cars upto VIN 1800 (ish) as that was the changeover to AMEP engines.
Your engine is an AMEP engine
Thanks Paul, I haven't lost the plot then! I watched it several times and replayed it with my V5 in hand checking numbers!! Your engine is an AMEP engine
Belfry, while you can get great advice here, you can’t get definitive answers on that car remotely, so get the car professionally inspected for peace of mind and if that’s not an option walk away. A cheap car can be a bargain but it can also prove to be very expensive indeed, so why take the risk for a few hundred pounds inspecting the car 
I must admit - the description - whilst honest - suggest a car which has been used (obvious from the miles), and little things have been allowed to sit broken or damaged - suggesting the car was not loved - corrosion, broken ski slope, etc.
I would be thinking caveat emptor here and would probably try to find some extra cash and wait until the new year - when DDD will most likely mean a few more cars hit the market.
I would be thinking caveat emptor here and would probably try to find some extra cash and wait until the new year - when DDD will most likely mean a few more cars hit the market.
Ford Duratec heads are known to have tappet rattle/noise (google duratec valve tappet rattle 
. The V-12 shares a similar design/history & parts.
They also suffer from the same insufficient oil return flow, as the oil returns are identical - this can cause oil starvation in sustained side load (think long sweeping turn off the freeway as you amaze yourself and Miss Moneypenny). They also share the same connecting rod/plain bearings, and thus can suffer the same insufficient lubrication.
Having rebuilt a DB-9 V12, I can't imagine what job can be done for 1500 Sterling at a dealer. Isn't that what an oil / air filter change + alignment costs?
Unless you are a mechanic, or dating a mechanic, I recommend getting a serious consult on the car, or running away, or factoring in an engine swap into the purchase price. That is what I did when I bought mine - I knew going in that I was going to need to rebuild the motor and the seller and I factored that into the sale price. Now, if I had known the windshield was cracked, I'd have been completely satisfied!
As always, YMMV,
Larry
. The V-12 shares a similar design/history & parts.They also suffer from the same insufficient oil return flow, as the oil returns are identical - this can cause oil starvation in sustained side load (think long sweeping turn off the freeway as you amaze yourself and Miss Moneypenny). They also share the same connecting rod/plain bearings, and thus can suffer the same insufficient lubrication.
Having rebuilt a DB-9 V12, I can't imagine what job can be done for 1500 Sterling at a dealer. Isn't that what an oil / air filter change + alignment costs?
Unless you are a mechanic, or dating a mechanic, I recommend getting a serious consult on the car, or running away, or factoring in an engine swap into the purchase price. That is what I did when I bought mine - I knew going in that I was going to need to rebuild the motor and the seller and I factored that into the sale price. Now, if I had known the windshield was cracked, I'd have been completely satisfied!
As always, YMMV,
Larry
A couple of days ago I asked the ‘auction’ company to ask the vendor to provide some commentary from his specialist about the noise coming from the tappets.
I would be straight on to my AM specialist if my DB9 started making strange engine noises!!
I haven’t heard back from him/them....
I would be straight on to my AM specialist if my DB9 started making strange engine noises!!
I haven’t heard back from him/them....
Both rear lights have been drilled to solve the condensation problem. Only it doesn't solve it. And sooner or later the LED bars inside will fail and then you either need a new set of rear lights (£1500-£2000) or you need to do the DIY repair which is moderately tricky and not guaranteed to work (it involves popping your lights in the oven for a bit...!).
Not an issue if relfected in the price of course but drilling the lights is highly unlikely to be a long term fix to that particular issue.
Not an issue if relfected in the price of course but drilling the lights is highly unlikely to be a long term fix to that particular issue.
Manners79 said:
Both rear lights have been drilled to solve the condensation problem. Only it doesn't solve it. And sooner or later the LED bars inside will fail and then you either need a new set of rear lights (£1500-£2000) or you need to do the DIY repair which is moderately tricky and not guaranteed to work (it involves popping your lights in the oven for a bit...!).
Not an issue if relfected in the price of course but drilling the lights is highly unlikely to be a long term fix to that particular issue.
Drilling the rear lights to let out water that shouldn't be getting in sounds like a bit of a bodge to me. If that's typical of the approach that has been taken to looking after this car then it might be an indication of what may lie in store for any future owner.Not an issue if relfected in the price of course but drilling the lights is highly unlikely to be a long term fix to that particular issue.
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