Aston Martin Virage 2012 not starting on full battery power
Discussion
I had a similar, but not identical, problem. See my Pistonheads Post: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I was told by the dealer even if you get your car started with a jump battery, it won’t continue to run and be drivable if the battery is dead.
I was told by the dealer even if you get your car started with a jump battery, it won’t continue to run and be drivable if the battery is dead.
Can you measure 12v at the engine bay jump start points?
If not leave your meter connected to the positive and run a wire from battery earth to the earth point in the engine bay until you get 12v.
Then track back with that same wire to see how far back to the battery you can go before it fails. Various chassis/engine points.
This is for measuring purposes only. Probably earth is poor somewhere.
If not leave your meter connected to the positive and run a wire from battery earth to the earth point in the engine bay until you get 12v.
Then track back with that same wire to see how far back to the battery you can go before it fails. Various chassis/engine points.
This is for measuring purposes only. Probably earth is poor somewhere.
Have you checked to see if the Battery Disconnect Switch/Relay functioning? It is the small black box behind the battery connected to the red battery cable. I had a similar problem with my 2012 Virage (though the relay failed while out on the road) which effectively shut down the car, but for a variety of dash warnings and faults. I had tracked down a message on another forum that provided the following diagnostic advice:
Step 1 - Try to reset the Relay: Lock and unlock the car with the remote several times, making sure that the bonnet/boot/doors all closed. If that doesn't work...
Step 2 - Try a hard reset: Disconnect the battery and jump both cables together..WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED. This will force a complete drain on the electrical system. Keep the battery off for 20 minutes..then connect cable. With all doors closed, try and lock, unlock. If that doesn't work...
Step 3 - Jump the disconnect switch. Take the cables off the switch (you might want to disconnect the ground from the battery while doing so, not to short with chassis)..once cables are off switch, use a nut and bolt to secure them all together...Now does the car start and function correctly? If so, the Switch/Relay has failed.
In my case, bypassing the switch allowed the car to start and function normally. I replaced the Battery Disconnect Switch/Relay (it's actually a Ford Motor Company part) and have had no problems since.
Step 1 - Try to reset the Relay: Lock and unlock the car with the remote several times, making sure that the bonnet/boot/doors all closed. If that doesn't work...
Step 2 - Try a hard reset: Disconnect the battery and jump both cables together..WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED. This will force a complete drain on the electrical system. Keep the battery off for 20 minutes..then connect cable. With all doors closed, try and lock, unlock. If that doesn't work...
Step 3 - Jump the disconnect switch. Take the cables off the switch (you might want to disconnect the ground from the battery while doing so, not to short with chassis)..once cables are off switch, use a nut and bolt to secure them all together...Now does the car start and function correctly? If so, the Switch/Relay has failed.
In my case, bypassing the switch allowed the car to start and function normally. I replaced the Battery Disconnect Switch/Relay (it's actually a Ford Motor Company part) and have had no problems since.
Thanks for all your advice everyone
Going to crack back on with this on 28th Dec
I have tried the 20 minutes disconnect and touch wires together on car, this didn’t help
But will try all the comments here and thank you very much I will report how I get on.
And merry Xmas to everyone too.
(Got to keep in mrs good books for 2 days now lol and no cars for a couple of days lol)
Going to crack back on with this on 28th Dec
I have tried the 20 minutes disconnect and touch wires together on car, this didn’t help
But will try all the comments here and thank you very much I will report how I get on.
And merry Xmas to everyone too.
(Got to keep in mrs good books for 2 days now lol and no cars for a couple of days lol)
I guess if you've measured the voltage running and you've measured it at the battery terminals and they are not connected to the engine bay (ongoing theory) then you won't be measuring the alternator output. I think a full battery with goosed alertnator output would still start and run the car but can't say for sure.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Is there a battery reset on the virage?
I've looked at pics and I'm not sure.
Have you checked voltage on both sides of the battery disconnect switch on top of the battery? Big red leads both sides.
Sounds like when you are jumping from under bonnet you are powering the under bonnet fuse box from the other side of the failure.
Check the voltage at jump terminals with ignition on (without jump pack)
Reckon you may have zero volts there.
Pull every fuse and check.
Start under bonnet fuse box,
Then passenger footwell fuse box
The boot fuse box
I only have the db9 circuit diagrams (i know not the same but should be similar)
But they support the above theory (wiring diagram 57/58) they are easily available online
I've looked at pics and I'm not sure.
Have you checked voltage on both sides of the battery disconnect switch on top of the battery? Big red leads both sides.
Sounds like when you are jumping from under bonnet you are powering the under bonnet fuse box from the other side of the failure.
Check the voltage at jump terminals with ignition on (without jump pack)
Reckon you may have zero volts there.
Pull every fuse and check.
Start under bonnet fuse box,
Then passenger footwell fuse box
The boot fuse box
I only have the db9 circuit diagrams (i know not the same but should be similar)
But they support the above theory (wiring diagram 57/58) they are easily available online
I can't speak to the diagram but can say that my Virage does not have a manual battery disconnect or a reset button. The "reset" is apparently done through the lock-unlock cycle (with the doors and trunk closed) with the key fob. The only thing under the load compartment cover (where the battery disconnect would have been in the DB9 and where the diagram seems to suggest it is) is the 12v socket for the battery maintainer.
Norwich77 said:
Got a mate who works at Aston part department and he says screen is showing a battery switch but we cannot find a battery switch anywhere apart from the relay thing on top of the battery,
He sent this screen shot
Have you had a look on the vertical panel in front of the battery and In front of the left hand rear seat vertical panel? He sent this screen shot
I had a quick Google and some have the reset switches there.
The Black box ontop of the battery is the disconnect switch.
Check voltage both sides of that incase its failed.
If you have voltage both sides, discount the disconnect system and keep looking.
On the DB9 there is a 60 amp in line fuse between the battery and the starter/ alternator. Could it be that if you're not getting alternator voltage back at the battery?
Edited by Hutch525 on Tuesday 29th December 09:11
Norwich77 said:
Thanks all for your comments again,
I’ve tested each side of switch and same voltage (battery voltage) it’s battery voltage everywhere including jump point.
Can you tell me where the 60amp fuse is located please as worth checking.
I’ve noticed this post (pic) for a different car but similar issues
Can anyone point me in right direction to find the engine management box so I can check the plugs

Its in the engine fuse boxI’ve tested each side of switch and same voltage (battery voltage) it’s battery voltage everywhere including jump point.
Can you tell me where the 60amp fuse is located please as worth checking.
I’ve noticed this post (pic) for a different car but similar issues
Can anyone point me in right direction to find the engine management box so I can check the plugs
Kestrel68 said:
I can't speak to the diagram but can say that my Virage does not have a manual battery disconnect or a reset button. The "reset" is apparently done through the lock-unlock cycle (with the doors and trunk closed) with the key fob. The only thing under the load compartment cover (where the battery disconnect would have been in the DB9 and where the diagram seems to suggest it is) is the 12v socket for the battery maintainer.
Hi again Kestrel, as an owner of same car can i asked a couple of questions,does your car come with any separate alarm/immobiliser/tracker as mine came with no info or fob,
if there is a tracker company could you give me their tel contact number if there is one so i can ring them and make sure they
have not switched the car off if there is a "they"
also can i ask, the red dot on the dashboard left side that is something to so with immobiliser, does yours come on at ignition sold red for about 4 seconds then go out, is this normal,
thanks in advance
I think your tracker red light is good. I believe it stays on when not happy.
With bad earth's you can measure voltages and all looks good but under load and on demand these fall over. If all systems are working when you under bonnet jump start I would still be looking at earthing.
Measure voltage at battery when you are jump starting and compare to voltage measured at engine jump points whilst jump starting.
If the voltage measured at the battery doesnt drop to the same as the engine bay then it is a big clue.
My Vantage ECUs are near the vents in the wing. Access via wheel arch liner. One each side. 2 of 6 pots.
With bad earth's you can measure voltages and all looks good but under load and on demand these fall over. If all systems are working when you under bonnet jump start I would still be looking at earthing.
Measure voltage at battery when you are jump starting and compare to voltage measured at engine jump points whilst jump starting.
If the voltage measured at the battery doesnt drop to the same as the engine bay then it is a big clue.
My Vantage ECUs are near the vents in the wing. Access via wheel arch liner. One each side. 2 of 6 pots.
Edited by leman600 on Wednesday 30th December 08:31
Next check i would do is check voltage at fuse F15 (starter) in the engine fuse bay.
Check you have zero volts to start with.
Then probe the back of the fuse as you try to start the car ( 2 man job) to see if you get 12v at the fuse from the relay.
(Relay 9 in engine fuse box)
If you don't have voltage at the fuse when turning the car over, see if there is a relay with the same part number in the fuse box you could swap. ( may induce a fault in the other system so be aware)
Check you have zero volts to start with.
Then probe the back of the fuse as you try to start the car ( 2 man job) to see if you get 12v at the fuse from the relay.
(Relay 9 in engine fuse box)
If you don't have voltage at the fuse when turning the car over, see if there is a relay with the same part number in the fuse box you could swap. ( may induce a fault in the other system so be aware)
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