Smartire Autel MX replacement
Discussion
I have a 2010 DBS Volante with the Smartire TPMS system, and thought this info may help others with the same system.
I was having problems with this in that the sensors were failing and given the high cost of replacement decided to invest in Autel MX sensors and an Autel TS401 programmer, which in total were less ££ than the cost of 1 new smartire sensor from AM.
The full process has been covered else where but high level you remove the smartire sensors from the wheels and replace with the mx sensors then you read the decimal code off the sticker on the smartire sensors and programme the mx sensors with the same code and all should work. Lots of other threads on here about doing the same.
So having had my mx sensors fitted to the wheels I was able to successfully programme three of the autel mx sensors with the code from the sticker on the body of the smartire sensors. (note if you have a DBS select DB9 in the TS401 coder, if you select DBS the coding in the programmer seems to be wrong and it wont work.)
My forth sensor however was a problem, as the decimal code printed on the sticker on the body of the sensor was worn off. The sensor was also dead, flat battery and so whilst it is supposed to be feasible to read the sensor code using the autel programmer a flat battery made this impossible.
I then had three options.
1. Try and get the sensor working with a new or external battery
2. Take the car to Aston and get them to put the smartire reciever into learn mode to pickup the new autel sensor
3. Get hold of a display for the smart tire recievier to allow me to put it into learn mode myself.
2 was an option but its a 4 hour round trip to the dealer and a pain, 3 was impossible as you just cannot find these anymore and there were some people on PH that had the display but they were even further from me than the dealer.
So I took the sensor apart and unsoldered the two batteries, these are 3V and soldered in parallel delivering 3V to the board. Replacing these has been covered elsewhere. Instead of replacing them I used two 1.5V AA batteries in series in a holder I had handy and soldered wires to the board. I could detect 3v on the board with my multimeter but unfortunately couldn't get any reading from the sensor.
I tried shaking the sensor to replicate the forces of the wheel spinning as they only wake up when the wheel is in motion, however I couldn't get it to trigger.
I did a little research on the components of the board and found the little cylindrical component (see photo) on the board was the sensor that woke the board up when the wheel spins. I also found that it has two connections (the main body) and the terminal that sticks out the top. From the component info I found online it seemed that when the switch is triggered by the motion of the wheel a connection is made between the two terminals (body and top terminal) which wakes up the sensor chip.
I peeled off the silicon from the bottom of the circuit board and soldered a wire on to the board connection for the body and then soldered the other end of the wire to the terminal that exists the top of the centrifugal switch. This effectively bypassed the switch and with my multi tester I could now see that I had 3V at the top terminal, whereas before there was nothing.
I fired up the Autel programmer again and put it into receive mode to see if I could pickup a signal from the sensor. It did this straight away so the sensor was awake and my centrifugal switch bypass had worked. I was then able to use the code to programme the MX sensor in my wheel. All four sensors are now working.
Hopefully someone else might find this helpful if you are also using the Autel sensors and cannot find the code of your original Smartire sensor.
I was having problems with this in that the sensors were failing and given the high cost of replacement decided to invest in Autel MX sensors and an Autel TS401 programmer, which in total were less ££ than the cost of 1 new smartire sensor from AM.
The full process has been covered else where but high level you remove the smartire sensors from the wheels and replace with the mx sensors then you read the decimal code off the sticker on the smartire sensors and programme the mx sensors with the same code and all should work. Lots of other threads on here about doing the same.
So having had my mx sensors fitted to the wheels I was able to successfully programme three of the autel mx sensors with the code from the sticker on the body of the smartire sensors. (note if you have a DBS select DB9 in the TS401 coder, if you select DBS the coding in the programmer seems to be wrong and it wont work.)
My forth sensor however was a problem, as the decimal code printed on the sticker on the body of the sensor was worn off. The sensor was also dead, flat battery and so whilst it is supposed to be feasible to read the sensor code using the autel programmer a flat battery made this impossible.
I then had three options.
1. Try and get the sensor working with a new or external battery
2. Take the car to Aston and get them to put the smartire reciever into learn mode to pickup the new autel sensor
3. Get hold of a display for the smart tire recievier to allow me to put it into learn mode myself.
2 was an option but its a 4 hour round trip to the dealer and a pain, 3 was impossible as you just cannot find these anymore and there were some people on PH that had the display but they were even further from me than the dealer.
So I took the sensor apart and unsoldered the two batteries, these are 3V and soldered in parallel delivering 3V to the board. Replacing these has been covered elsewhere. Instead of replacing them I used two 1.5V AA batteries in series in a holder I had handy and soldered wires to the board. I could detect 3v on the board with my multimeter but unfortunately couldn't get any reading from the sensor.
I tried shaking the sensor to replicate the forces of the wheel spinning as they only wake up when the wheel is in motion, however I couldn't get it to trigger.
I did a little research on the components of the board and found the little cylindrical component (see photo) on the board was the sensor that woke the board up when the wheel spins. I also found that it has two connections (the main body) and the terminal that sticks out the top. From the component info I found online it seemed that when the switch is triggered by the motion of the wheel a connection is made between the two terminals (body and top terminal) which wakes up the sensor chip.
I peeled off the silicon from the bottom of the circuit board and soldered a wire on to the board connection for the body and then soldered the other end of the wire to the terminal that exists the top of the centrifugal switch. This effectively bypassed the switch and with my multi tester I could now see that I had 3V at the top terminal, whereas before there was nothing.
I fired up the Autel programmer again and put it into receive mode to see if I could pickup a signal from the sensor. It did this straight away so the sensor was awake and my centrifugal switch bypass had worked. I was then able to use the code to programme the MX sensor in my wheel. All four sensors are now working.
Hopefully someone else might find this helpful if you are also using the Autel sensors and cannot find the code of your original Smartire sensor.
Hi,
If I had soldered new batteries on I imagine they would have worked.fine. they are sealed.so you would have to reseal with hot glue or silicone or similar.
I went down the autel method.as the sensors.aee inexpensive. And now I have all the codes if one fails it's.easy to replace.
My advice would probably be to get the autel sensors.and programmer. Hopefully the printed codes wont of worn off your existing sensors so the job should be easy.
Paul
If I had soldered new batteries on I imagine they would have worked.fine. they are sealed.so you would have to reseal with hot glue or silicone or similar.
I went down the autel method.as the sensors.aee inexpensive. And now I have all the codes if one fails it's.easy to replace.
My advice would probably be to get the autel sensors.and programmer. Hopefully the printed codes wont of worn off your existing sensors so the job should be easy.
Paul
Great stuff!!! Ingenious, thank you for posting it up.
@jonny one or with decent soldering iron skills have replaced the batteries successfully, but the new sensor route is ok too :-) Having replaced the batteries in the electric toothbrush (just because.... and the soldering iron sucker is essential!) I feel my tiny electrics skills might be honed enough to have a go. But I already have the other kit....
The batteries last 10 years, so plenty of time to practice!
@jonny one or with decent soldering iron skills have replaced the batteries successfully, but the new sensor route is ok too :-) Having replaced the batteries in the electric toothbrush (just because.... and the soldering iron sucker is essential!) I feel my tiny electrics skills might be honed enough to have a go. But I already have the other kit....
The batteries last 10 years, so plenty of time to practice!
Having just reprogrammed my 2008 Aston Martin Vantage Smartire TPMS system to accept Autel sensors I thought I'd start a separate post to let everyone know that this is a simple process as long as you have the Autel TS508 hand held programming device and Autel MX sensors. These must be bought from a bonafide distributor such as Euro Car Parts as there are an awful lot of counterfeit ones on eBay etc. The TS508 is expensive tool at £479.99 and at the moment comes with four metal valve sensors and four rubber ones.
However for the price of a drink I'm happy to program your Autel MX sensors.
The procedure is very simple and straightforward as long as you have the serial number off your old Smartire Sensors, which can be read off the old sensors once they have been removed from the wheel.
If I can help please send me a PM.
However for the price of a drink I'm happy to program your Autel MX sensors.
The procedure is very simple and straightforward as long as you have the serial number off your old Smartire Sensors, which can be read off the old sensors once they have been removed from the wheel.
If I can help please send me a PM.
When I replaced the SmartTire TPMS sensors on my 2012.5 V12 Vantage with Autel MX sensors I used the Autel TS401 programming tool. I see it has been upgraded to a new model, the TS408. It’s price on Amazon where I bought my TS401 is about $140. I also bought the Autel MX sensors on Amazon. They are currently listed for $120 for a set of 4.
Henry
Henry
Autel UK prices look quite good. TS408 is £249.99+vat. MX sensor £24.99+vat.
https://www.autel.uk/diagnostics/tpms/
https://www.autel.uk/diagnostics/tpms/
Got my sensors back from Baby Driver and marked them up with a Sharpie as to where they go. As the coloured bands are specific to the Smartire valve stems, I’ve had to epoxy them on the top of the new stems so I know which wheel goes where if they ever get taken off all together in future.
Unfortunately missing the blue band - anyone got one knocking around that they don’t need ?
Unfortunately missing the blue band - anyone got one knocking around that they don’t need ?
Incidentally, epoxying the coloured bands onto the collars doesn’t work. They don’t stick sufficiently well to give me comfort that the colours won’t come off and get lost.
I ended up using some clear silicone o rings to retain them. You can also get coloured ones if you’re missing the original coloured bands or want to use them with the Autel sensors.
The coloured bands only come with the original Smartire collars.
I ended up using some clear silicone o rings to retain them. You can also get coloured ones if you’re missing the original coloured bands or want to use them with the Autel sensors.
The coloured bands only come with the original Smartire collars.
Took the V8V for its MOT and pleased to report it passed with flying colours and no advisories (clean sheet which I'd like to keep up).
It was also the first opportunity to check whether the sensors worked, so although the garage is almost at the top of my road, it took me 3 miles to actually get there (avoiding any ANPR cameras I hope). The car is SORN'd at the mo as I'm doing some bodywork detailing, but pleased to report that all works perfectly. The Smartire module went from displaying 4 flashing amber lights to one solid green light.
Happy days and many thanks to Anthony (Baby Driver) for all his help and programming of the sensors.
It was also the first opportunity to check whether the sensors worked, so although the garage is almost at the top of my road, it took me 3 miles to actually get there (avoiding any ANPR cameras I hope). The car is SORN'd at the mo as I'm doing some bodywork detailing, but pleased to report that all works perfectly. The Smartire module went from displaying 4 flashing amber lights to one solid green light.
Happy days and many thanks to Anthony (Baby Driver) for all his help and programming of the sensors.
JonnyCJ said:
Took the V8V for its MOT and pleased to report it passed with flying colours and no advisories (clean sheet which I'd like to keep up).
It was also the first opportunity to check whether the sensors worked, so although the garage is almost at the top of my road, it took me 3 miles to actually get there (avoiding any ANPR cameras I hope). The car is SORN'd at the mo as I'm doing some bodywork detailing, but pleased to report that all works perfectly. The Smartire module went from displaying 4 flashing amber lights to one solid green light.
Happy days and many thanks to Anthony (Baby Driver) for all his help and programming of the sensors.
If you are taking your car for an MOT and its not taxed, simply book it in at the test station and you are lawfully allowed to drive there and back. Remember, you can't get the car taxed without a current MOT. Make sure the test station take down your registration number and your name/address as proof.It was also the first opportunity to check whether the sensors worked, so although the garage is almost at the top of my road, it took me 3 miles to actually get there (avoiding any ANPR cameras I hope). The car is SORN'd at the mo as I'm doing some bodywork detailing, but pleased to report that all works perfectly. The Smartire module went from displaying 4 flashing amber lights to one solid green light.
Happy days and many thanks to Anthony (Baby Driver) for all his help and programming of the sensors.
You should take the most direct route but you can deviate for fuel/comfort break/rest etc and while you could book your car in for a test in Edinburgh when you live in London, it might be frowned upon but it is within the law.
My AM broke down at the test station (they don't do repairs) and having no tools with me was forced to call the AA. They initially refused to attend as the car was not taxed. After a short 'discussion' with a manager they did come out and take me home.
All very good info re the Autel sensors and the possibilities of DIY.
For those of you that would prefer just to buy a sensor at a reasonable price the good news is Aston Installations / James in Tewkesbury now supply the Autel sensors. If you are not that close to them, if you supply the code off the old sensor they will program and put in the post.
Neil
For those of you that would prefer just to buy a sensor at a reasonable price the good news is Aston Installations / James in Tewkesbury now supply the Autel sensors. If you are not that close to them, if you supply the code off the old sensor they will program and put in the post.
Neil
N7GTX said:
If you are taking your car for an MOT and its not taxed, simply book it in at the test station and you are lawfully allowed to drive there and back. Remember, you can't get the car taxed without a current MOT. Make sure the test station take down your registration number and your name/address as proof.
You should take the most direct route but you can deviate for fuel/comfort break/rest etc and while you could book your car in for a test in Edinburgh when you live in London, it might be frowned upon but it is within the law.
It was booked in, however, bearing in mind I live less than a minute drive away from the test station, had come from home and there's one junction, to be caught a couple of miles away, I think I'd have a difficult time justifying it being a direct route !You should take the most direct route but you can deviate for fuel/comfort break/rest etc and while you could book your car in for a test in Edinburgh when you live in London, it might be frowned upon but it is within the law.
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