How risky is a high mileage DB9?
Discussion
Have been seeking a DB9 for a while now, I need an Aston in my life at some point and with the rise of the EV’s and all the legislation coming in, I’m more determined to get one.
Prices are all over the place with the recent increases so keeping an eye on the market without a burning need to purchase.
The car will be my daily, but probably only doing around 6k a year - so looking for a useable car I can enjoy rather than a garage queen. Looking at the 2005-06 models and must be an auto for my wife to drive, so discounting the Vantage sport shift as the reviews don’t seem great. I’ve noticed that a lot of cars appear to be on the market for quite a while, guess they are not your average purchase.
Through all my searches I keep coming back to this relatively high miler on car and classic - 88k with fsh it says, but it’s pretty cheap considering at £24k before any haggling. I think I have a handle on the ongoing possible running costs, but part of me is thinking that buying a car that has been used may be better than one left for long periods of time. It was certainly the case with my previous Porsche, used cars tend to fair better.
So is this just madness? Is there impending doom at 100k that I should be aware of? Or is it a case of use it and love it? I’m not worried about resale value, I buy my cars to enjoy for myself, not what the next buyer may like and I’m expecting the DB9 to be a long term keeper
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1151863
Alternatively, there is a volante on ebay for £28k with 79k on it, but ridiculously I don’t like the wheel design - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324762174926?hash=item4...
Prices are all over the place with the recent increases so keeping an eye on the market without a burning need to purchase.
The car will be my daily, but probably only doing around 6k a year - so looking for a useable car I can enjoy rather than a garage queen. Looking at the 2005-06 models and must be an auto for my wife to drive, so discounting the Vantage sport shift as the reviews don’t seem great. I’ve noticed that a lot of cars appear to be on the market for quite a while, guess they are not your average purchase.
Through all my searches I keep coming back to this relatively high miler on car and classic - 88k with fsh it says, but it’s pretty cheap considering at £24k before any haggling. I think I have a handle on the ongoing possible running costs, but part of me is thinking that buying a car that has been used may be better than one left for long periods of time. It was certainly the case with my previous Porsche, used cars tend to fair better.
So is this just madness? Is there impending doom at 100k that I should be aware of? Or is it a case of use it and love it? I’m not worried about resale value, I buy my cars to enjoy for myself, not what the next buyer may like and I’m expecting the DB9 to be a long term keeper
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1151863
Alternatively, there is a volante on ebay for £28k with 79k on it, but ridiculously I don’t like the wheel design - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324762174926?hash=item4...
Well that's only 5000ish miles a year. So long as the condition is good and the coil packs have been done....
Early DB9s seem to be dipping below late DB7s now.
I notice a few thousand more gets you a 29,000 mile car.
Choices, choices.
Also consider when you come to sell it the mileage will probably be at or over the psychological 100,000 mile mark.
Early DB9s seem to be dipping below late DB7s now.
I notice a few thousand more gets you a 29,000 mile car.
Choices, choices.
Also consider when you come to sell it the mileage will probably be at or over the psychological 100,000 mile mark.
Edited by Agent57 on Sunday 19th September 13:30
Edited by Agent57 on Sunday 19th September 13:31
mattman said:
That’s my thoughts, 80-90k isn’t considered that much in Porsche land, but they typically need a full suspension refresh around that age and mileage, along with new AC condensers, coolant pipe replacement and other pricey jobs - would that be the same for the DB9?
Ive had three Porsches that I took from new to all over that mileage and didnt need any of those pricey jobs. Where are you getting this typical information from? if its forums like this then its a fragment of reality. Regardless you are looking at a 16 year old car so you will have to spend something sometimecraigjm said:
Ive had three Porsches that I took from new to all over that mileage and didnt need any of those pricey jobs. Where are you getting this typical information from? if its forums like this then its a fragment of reality
My previous 987.2 S Pdk - coming up to 10yrs old and 78k - needed all of that doing and the usual pdk service etc on top of routine servicing You are looking for a long term keeper and not worried about re-sale value. In that case I would not be concerned with a high miler as long as it has FSH.
I sold my 2005 DB9 earlier this year. 45,000 miles. It was not showing any signs of age mechanically, the engines are very reliable.
Make sure any model you look at has had the coils/plugs replaced. A 88k car should be on its third set. Allow for a couple of grand if not.
The one you linked too looks lovely.....tbh they all do !
I sold my 2005 DB9 earlier this year. 45,000 miles. It was not showing any signs of age mechanically, the engines are very reliable.
Make sure any model you look at has had the coils/plugs replaced. A 88k car should be on its third set. Allow for a couple of grand if not.
The one you linked too looks lovely.....tbh they all do !
mattman said:
craigjm said:
Ive had three Porsches that I took from new to all over that mileage and didnt need any of those pricey jobs. Where are you getting this typical information from? if its forums like this then its a fragment of reality
My previous 987.2 S Pdk - coming up to 10yrs old and 78k - needed all of that doing and the usual pdk service etc on top of routine servicing mattman said:
That’s my thoughts, 80-90k isn’t considered that much in Porsche land, but they typically need a full suspension refresh around that age and mileage, along with new AC condensers, coolant pipe replacement and other pricey jobs - would that be the same for the DB9?
16 years and possibly at 88,000 miles, it might have been driven in all kinds of weather.
Although the chassis is alloy, there is a steel rear subframe. The factory paint protection of that subframe should have been much better, so it is likely to be rusty. Worth checking, although obviously not visible unless up on a car lift.
If it does need attention, it is not a disaster because they can be repaired (or presumably replaced with a new one), but obviously a lengthy job. Even a new one could do with protective treatment before fitting.
Hi Matt,
Ex TVR and Porsche owner here.
As a previous poster has said, if you are buying to use and keep. I would not be worried about high mileage at all.
I would:
Buy on condition, history and not mileage.
Get an inspection on some ramps if you are not too DB9 savvy, it may point out some areas of future work which may help with ‘buying negotiations’
They are generally reliable but as others have said consumables are more (a powerful heavy car will use pads / discs / tyres more than a small hatchback).
They are getting older but regular use and maintenance helps.
Look at my profile, garage for running costs of mine over the last 6 years.
Enjoy the chase(search).
Sean
Ex TVR and Porsche owner here.
As a previous poster has said, if you are buying to use and keep. I would not be worried about high mileage at all.
I would:
Buy on condition, history and not mileage.
Get an inspection on some ramps if you are not too DB9 savvy, it may point out some areas of future work which may help with ‘buying negotiations’
They are generally reliable but as others have said consumables are more (a powerful heavy car will use pads / discs / tyres more than a small hatchback).
They are getting older but regular use and maintenance helps.
Look at my profile, garage for running costs of mine over the last 6 years.
Enjoy the chase(search).
Sean
That’s not a lot of miles on that motor
Inspect it. I’d be more concerned about a low mileage car personally as they too come with problems and are often never run up properly when they are run.
My good friend is a lambo owner and the thing rarely moves. Looks great on paper but when it does it’s on the limiter down to the shops. Not good.
Another friend has a gt3 that came from a reputable dealer. It was totally showroom condition that had very low miles and was always babied. He got hold of it and used it and it needed a lot of work very quickly as the thing had just sat for years on end with the odd run out.
Inspect it. I’d be more concerned about a low mileage car personally as they too come with problems and are often never run up properly when they are run.
My good friend is a lambo owner and the thing rarely moves. Looks great on paper but when it does it’s on the limiter down to the shops. Not good.
Another friend has a gt3 that came from a reputable dealer. It was totally showroom condition that had very low miles and was always babied. He got hold of it and used it and it needed a lot of work very quickly as the thing had just sat for years on end with the odd run out.
Edited by Finding Neutral on Sunday 19th September 19:55
These cars can handle the mileage, I've got an early DB9 and it's great.
The things I would do when you get it -
1 - Disconnect Tracker & replace the batttery. (keep it on a trickle charger)
2 - Replace the old radiator if it's warped and bent.
3 - Remove and recondition the rear subframe
4 - Remove the Primary cats
5 - Replace the sparkplugs and coilpacks
6 - Renew the ZF gearbox oil
7 - Renew the power steering fluid
The lights might get condensation, common fault but might make the LED's fail so be careful.
Plus ensure it is serviced at the correct intervals and you should be ok.
The things I would do when you get it -
1 - Disconnect Tracker & replace the batttery. (keep it on a trickle charger)
2 - Replace the old radiator if it's warped and bent.
3 - Remove and recondition the rear subframe
4 - Remove the Primary cats
5 - Replace the sparkplugs and coilpacks
6 - Renew the ZF gearbox oil
7 - Renew the power steering fluid
The lights might get condensation, common fault but might make the LED's fail so be careful.
Plus ensure it is serviced at the correct intervals and you should be ok.
Rappa said:
Hi Matt,
Ex TVR and Porsche owner here.
As a previous poster has said, if you are buying to use and keep. I would not be worried about high mileage at all.
I would:
Buy on condition, history and not mileage.
Get an inspection on some ramps if you are not too DB9 savvy, it may point out some areas of future work which may help with ‘buying negotiations’
They are generally reliable but as others have said consumables are more (a powerful heavy car will use pads / discs / tyres more than a small hatchback).
They are getting older but regular use and maintenance helps.
Look at my profile, garage for running costs of mine over the last 6 years.
Enjoy the chase(search).
Sean
Thanks Sean - just have the feeling I need to scratch the Aston itch while I still can Ex TVR and Porsche owner here.
As a previous poster has said, if you are buying to use and keep. I would not be worried about high mileage at all.
I would:
Buy on condition, history and not mileage.
Get an inspection on some ramps if you are not too DB9 savvy, it may point out some areas of future work which may help with ‘buying negotiations’
They are generally reliable but as others have said consumables are more (a powerful heavy car will use pads / discs / tyres more than a small hatchback).
They are getting older but regular use and maintenance helps.
Look at my profile, garage for running costs of mine over the last 6 years.
Enjoy the chase(search).
Sean
paulrog1 said:
These cars can handle the mileage, I've got an early DB9 and it's great.
The things I would do when you get it -
1 - Disconnect Tracker & replace the batttery. (keep it on a trickle charger)
2 - Replace the old radiator if it's warped and bent.
3 - Remove and recondition the rear subframe
4 - Remove the Primary cats
5 - Replace the sparkplugs and coilpacks
6 - Renew the ZF gearbox oil
7 - Renew the power steering fluid
The lights might get condensation, common fault but might make the LED's fail so be careful.
Plus ensure it is serviced at the correct intervals and you should be ok.
Thanks for the info - not seen anything on the radiator issue before, another one for me to add to the check listThe things I would do when you get it -
1 - Disconnect Tracker & replace the batttery. (keep it on a trickle charger)
2 - Replace the old radiator if it's warped and bent.
3 - Remove and recondition the rear subframe
4 - Remove the Primary cats
5 - Replace the sparkplugs and coilpacks
6 - Renew the ZF gearbox oil
7 - Renew the power steering fluid
The lights might get condensation, common fault but might make the LED's fail so be careful.
Plus ensure it is serviced at the correct intervals and you should be ok.
Rappa (Sean) said it above, buy on condition and history, not mileage to avoid disappointment. A car thats been used and looked after is usually better than one thats not been regularly driven
Check out Bamford Rose's latest video on their Facebook page about buying entry level 2005 DB9's, and do your research.
https://fb.watch/87iZV8RQQ1/
Get a good one, and yopui won't be disappointed, get a bad one and you'll spend another 10k getting it sorted.
Check out Bamford Rose's latest video on their Facebook page about buying entry level 2005 DB9's, and do your research.
https://fb.watch/87iZV8RQQ1/
Get a good one, and yopui won't be disappointed, get a bad one and you'll spend another 10k getting it sorted.
OP - Matt,
If you have not already come across this resource, a quick way to learn more about buying, maintaining and improving Aston Martin cars, are the YouTube videos provided by Bamford Rose. Numerous topics are covered.
The presenter has a background, from which he gained very detailed engineering knowledge about Aston Martins and their engines in particular. Not everyone on here is a fan, but will leave that aspect for you to decide.
Jon39 said:
Rappa said:
Look at my profile, garage for running costs of mine over the last 6 years.
You show tax £269 yearly to date, Sean.
Is that because you SORN each winter?
I have SORN it in the past (not every year) if I’ve been away for a while. Also as an 05 it has the cheaper annual road fund licence.
Sean
+1 to the idea of browsing the Bamford Rose YouTube videos.
Redpants.lol is run by Richard Seidlitz who is American who runs Vantages and maintains them himself, as well as selling spares and accessories. Very knowledgeable. Richard posts on here occasionally as "telum01"
Another site worth a visit is https://aston1936.com/ run by another American who self-maintains a 2006 DB9.
If you're not aware all Astons of this era were engineered to the Ford engineering standards, as Aston Martin was part of the Premier Automotive Group (PAG) at the time, along with Jaguar, Land Rover and Volvo. Occasionally Aston were used as a low-volume "test bed" for technologies Ford was interested in (which is how the DB9 and Vantage door inners are large magnesium castings - not usually something a low-volume manufacturer would consider). It also explains why many parts are badged as Ford, JRL or Volvo as Aston could raid their parts bins.
Accordingly the cars, including the running gear, etc. were developed and tested to a major OEM's standards (opinions on Ford will differ) with something like a 100,000 mile or 12-year target, and they tend to be far more robust than, say, the Ferrari's of the time (opinions on Ferraris will differ).
I'm not really in a position to make comment on DB9, as I ruled one out when I started my Aston search on the basis of size, I just prefer the look of the V8V and I could get a newer car for the same money. However, as well as the points above (some of which are optional rather then compulsory imho) make sure it isn't misfiring: that may seem obvious, but apparently with 11 other cylinders running fine you can't necessarily detect a bad misfire on one, but it can have severe consequences. Buy on condition, especially trim and bodywork; mechanically they are quite simple cars (but expect an "Aston Tax" on parts) so home wrenching is eminently do-able if you have the facilities and inclination (but a lift makes some jobs so much easier). I'd also advise an independent inspection by an expert (not your mate from the pub); even if it costs it could save you a fortune in the long run.
Remember that they are cars - an incredibly complex machine. Plus they are hand-built. There will be good ones, and there will be a few lemons. There are good owners who look after their cars and there are a few who are...lemons. So buying second-hand is always a bit of a lottery. Astons tend to thrive more on being driven regularly and often, serviced correctly and being given a little bit of TLC rather than sitting in a garage doing 600 miles per year.
Enjoy your Aston when you get it.
edited for typos and to add stuff I forgot
Redpants.lol is run by Richard Seidlitz who is American who runs Vantages and maintains them himself, as well as selling spares and accessories. Very knowledgeable. Richard posts on here occasionally as "telum01"
Another site worth a visit is https://aston1936.com/ run by another American who self-maintains a 2006 DB9.
If you're not aware all Astons of this era were engineered to the Ford engineering standards, as Aston Martin was part of the Premier Automotive Group (PAG) at the time, along with Jaguar, Land Rover and Volvo. Occasionally Aston were used as a low-volume "test bed" for technologies Ford was interested in (which is how the DB9 and Vantage door inners are large magnesium castings - not usually something a low-volume manufacturer would consider). It also explains why many parts are badged as Ford, JRL or Volvo as Aston could raid their parts bins.
Accordingly the cars, including the running gear, etc. were developed and tested to a major OEM's standards (opinions on Ford will differ) with something like a 100,000 mile or 12-year target, and they tend to be far more robust than, say, the Ferrari's of the time (opinions on Ferraris will differ).
I'm not really in a position to make comment on DB9, as I ruled one out when I started my Aston search on the basis of size, I just prefer the look of the V8V and I could get a newer car for the same money. However, as well as the points above (some of which are optional rather then compulsory imho) make sure it isn't misfiring: that may seem obvious, but apparently with 11 other cylinders running fine you can't necessarily detect a bad misfire on one, but it can have severe consequences. Buy on condition, especially trim and bodywork; mechanically they are quite simple cars (but expect an "Aston Tax" on parts) so home wrenching is eminently do-able if you have the facilities and inclination (but a lift makes some jobs so much easier). I'd also advise an independent inspection by an expert (not your mate from the pub); even if it costs it could save you a fortune in the long run.
Remember that they are cars - an incredibly complex machine. Plus they are hand-built. There will be good ones, and there will be a few lemons. There are good owners who look after their cars and there are a few who are...lemons. So buying second-hand is always a bit of a lottery. Astons tend to thrive more on being driven regularly and often, serviced correctly and being given a little bit of TLC rather than sitting in a garage doing 600 miles per year.
Enjoy your Aston when you get it.
edited for typos and to add stuff I forgot
Edited by LTP on Monday 20th September 16:33
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff