Changing 2010 DB9 to 2013 manual V8V
Discussion
sirmarcus said:
Have finally found a manual V8V that ticked all my spec boxes so have done the deal to p/x my DB9. Counting down the 8 days until I drive (6 hour round trip!) to do the swap over!
Come on then folks - what should be on my to-do list with the V8V?
Depends what you want from the car. It’s a later one so should already have the better brakes and quicker steering..Come on then folks - what should be on my to-do list with the V8V?
Then, in this order:
Transmission/responsiveness
Twin plate clutch and lightened flywheel for lighter clutch and improved gear change
If you want to improve Torque/power/responsiveness
The gold standard is expensive full stainless equal length exhaust manifolds (without pre-cats) (+15), 200cell cats (+10), lighter V12 complete bypass back box (+4)
Modified inlet manifold to add the valve to vary inlet tract length (+5). Finish with an expensive twin throttle inlet manifold (+10hp)
There are of course many variations on that lot, but that’s what you need for the maximum uplift.
It would be expensive, but you would get +45hp from that lot on comparative dyno runs, taking you to approx 465hp.
If it’s possible to add the Vantage S spark strategy allowing the ignition to advance on the knock sensors with the best fuels, then you’d get to 470hp running Esso super unleaded 99 Octane. 100hp/ltr is about as high as is possible from the motor without pressure charging (don’t) or engine dismantling, crank balancing, ‘blueprinting’, higher spec rods and pistons (if you can even find them)..
My V8S runs all of the above minus the twin throttle manifold and dyno’s at 460hp
Noise can be a real issue, either too much or wrong type, so research carefully, make sure you have a device to close/exercise the valves (cabin 2 or 3 way switch or a remote disabling the fuse). It’s a good idea to keep the OEM bits to put it back to standard if required for best resale.
Suspension
You won’t really need anything more than well set up Bilsteins. You can go for the switchable retrofit if feeling flush, an amazing solution that will permit confident track use. If you are unsure, let a good specialist set whatever you have up properly for fast road work, it can make a huge difference.
Losing weight
If you go for the full set up as described above, you can take 25kg out of the exhaust. You can lose another 15kg with a lithium battery, 15-20kg with lightweight forged or high end aftermarket wheels, and a further 30kg with the lightweight seats.
Tyres
Michelin PS4S. Way better in every way than the OEM Bridgestone
Cosmetic upgrades
Assuming the interior is good, and you can sort yourself out with plugging in a compatible device allowing you to bluetooth your phone to the car, or get a specialist to fit car play and reverse camera (though yours may already have that), there still a few bits and pieces, eg good value carbon fibre stuff from EPCS, glass switches are an afternoons fiddling (you have only the lower row which are the more fiddly to swap over, so probably not worth it, they look great on my sportshift as it has the upper row)
Lastly - if you haven’t already learned this with your DB9, keep it on a battery conditioner.
Best of luck with it. I hope you don’t get bored of the V8 when you’ve been used to the V12. If you do, just refer yourself back to this, and prepare to spend a few quid. Remember you have a head start on some others as you already have the faster steering, 6 pot front callipers and 380mm front discs…
What you can get to is a sublime handling analogue car, which, if moving to Vantage from DB9 is what I suspect you may want, hence I take the time to write this out for you.
I’ve had mine 7 years, done all I possibly can to it, and it’s a keeper.
Calinours said:
Depends what you want from the car. It’s a later one so should already have the better brakes and quicker steering..
Then, in this order:
Transmission/responsiveness
Twin plate clutch and lightened flywheel for lighter clutch and improved gear change
If you want to improve Torque/power/responsiveness
The gold standard is expensive full stainless equal length exhaust manifolds (without pre-cats) (+15), 200cell cats (+10), lighter V12 complete bypass back box (+4)
Modified inlet manifold to add the valve to vary inlet tract length (+5). Finish with an expensive twin throttle inlet manifold (+10hp)
There are of course many variations on that lot, but that’s what you need for the maximum uplift.
It would be expensive, but you would get +45hp from that lot on comparative dyno runs, taking you to approx 465hp.
If it’s possible to add the Vantage S spark strategy allowing the ignition to advance on the knock sensors with the best fuels, then you’d get to 470hp running Esso super unleaded 99 Octane. 100hp/ltr is about as high as is possible from the motor without pressure charging (don’t) or engine dismantling, crank balancing, ‘blueprinting’, higher spec rods and pistons (if you can even find them)..
My V8S runs all of the above minus the twin throttle manifold and dyno’s at 460hp
Noise can be a real issue, either too much or wrong type, so research carefully, make sure you have a device to close/exercise the valves (cabin 2 or 3 way switch or a remote disabling the fuse). It’s a good idea to keep the OEM bits to put it back to standard if required for best resale.
Suspension
You won’t really need anything more than well set up Bilsteins. You can go for the switchable retrofit if feeling flush, an amazing solution that will permit confident track use. If you are unsure, let a good specialist set whatever you have up properly for fast road work, it can make a huge difference.
Losing weight
If you go for the full set up as described above, you can take 25kg out of the exhaust. You can lose another 15kg with a lithium battery, 15-20kg with lightweight forged or high end aftermarket wheels, and a further 30kg with the lightweight seats.
Tyres
Michelin PS4S. Way better in every way than the OEM Bridgestone
Cosmetic upgrades
Assuming the interior is good, and you can sort yourself out with plugging in a compatible device allowing you to bluetooth your phone to the car, or get a specialist to fit car play and reverse camera (though yours may already have that), there still a few bits and pieces, eg good value carbon fibre stuff from EPCS, glass switches are an afternoons fiddling (you have only the lower row which are the more fiddly to swap over, so probably not worth it, they look great on my sportshift as it has the upper row)
Lastly - if you haven’t already learned this with your DB9, keep it on a battery conditioner.
Best of luck with it. I hope you don’t get bored of the V8 when you’ve been used to the V12. If you do, just refer yourself back to this, and prepare to spend a few quid. Remember you have a head start on some others as you already have the faster steering, 6 pot front callipers and 380mm front discs…
What you can get to is a sublime handling analogue car, which, if moving to Vantage from DB9 is what I suspect you may want, hence I take the time to write this out for you.
I’ve had mine 7 years, done all I possibly can to it, and it’s a keeper.
That's a helpful list - thank you. Yes - keen to get back into something a bit smaller/sportier after the GT experience.Then, in this order:
Transmission/responsiveness
Twin plate clutch and lightened flywheel for lighter clutch and improved gear change
If you want to improve Torque/power/responsiveness
The gold standard is expensive full stainless equal length exhaust manifolds (without pre-cats) (+15), 200cell cats (+10), lighter V12 complete bypass back box (+4)
Modified inlet manifold to add the valve to vary inlet tract length (+5). Finish with an expensive twin throttle inlet manifold (+10hp)
There are of course many variations on that lot, but that’s what you need for the maximum uplift.
It would be expensive, but you would get +45hp from that lot on comparative dyno runs, taking you to approx 465hp.
If it’s possible to add the Vantage S spark strategy allowing the ignition to advance on the knock sensors with the best fuels, then you’d get to 470hp running Esso super unleaded 99 Octane. 100hp/ltr is about as high as is possible from the motor without pressure charging (don’t) or engine dismantling, crank balancing, ‘blueprinting’, higher spec rods and pistons (if you can even find them)..
My V8S runs all of the above minus the twin throttle manifold and dyno’s at 460hp
Noise can be a real issue, either too much or wrong type, so research carefully, make sure you have a device to close/exercise the valves (cabin 2 or 3 way switch or a remote disabling the fuse). It’s a good idea to keep the OEM bits to put it back to standard if required for best resale.
Suspension
You won’t really need anything more than well set up Bilsteins. You can go for the switchable retrofit if feeling flush, an amazing solution that will permit confident track use. If you are unsure, let a good specialist set whatever you have up properly for fast road work, it can make a huge difference.
Losing weight
If you go for the full set up as described above, you can take 25kg out of the exhaust. You can lose another 15kg with a lithium battery, 15-20kg with lightweight forged or high end aftermarket wheels, and a further 30kg with the lightweight seats.
Tyres
Michelin PS4S. Way better in every way than the OEM Bridgestone
Cosmetic upgrades
Assuming the interior is good, and you can sort yourself out with plugging in a compatible device allowing you to bluetooth your phone to the car, or get a specialist to fit car play and reverse camera (though yours may already have that), there still a few bits and pieces, eg good value carbon fibre stuff from EPCS, glass switches are an afternoons fiddling (you have only the lower row which are the more fiddly to swap over, so probably not worth it, they look great on my sportshift as it has the upper row)
Lastly - if you haven’t already learned this with your DB9, keep it on a battery conditioner.
Best of luck with it. I hope you don’t get bored of the V8 when you’ve been used to the V12. If you do, just refer yourself back to this, and prepare to spend a few quid. Remember you have a head start on some others as you already have the faster steering, 6 pot front callipers and 380mm front discs…
What you can get to is a sublime handling analogue car, which, if moving to Vantage from DB9 is what I suspect you may want, hence I take the time to write this out for you.
I’ve had mine 7 years, done all I possibly can to it, and it’s a keeper.
Have always defaulted to PS4S on previous cars - found them extremely temperature-sensitive on previous M3 and M2 - would regularly lose the back end (in a nice way!) at about 20mph at a nearby roundabout in the cold! They then became super-sticky as they warmed up.
I will definitely check out EPCS as do enjoy throwing carbon at cars that suit it - and I think this one will suit it.
Have my Invery from the DB9 for bluetooth tunes - works surprisingly well with the iPod connector I've always thought.
Battery conditioner already in situ for the DB9 - a lesson I learned v early in ownership!
Every car I buy is always a keeper...then about 18 months ticks by...
sirmarcus said:
I suspect I'll end up in a funky colour one day...but this is not that day! You can't go wrong with black on black and this one was just too good. 2013 manual with only 14k miles and FAMSH.
Pictures are BEFORE detailing and ceramic which is being done next week!
With that mileage and spec no need to be vibrant !Pictures are BEFORE detailing and ceramic which is being done next week!
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