06 Vantage - removing wheel arch liner; simple?
Discussion
Hoping for some decent weather over the long weekend so I can spend it happy as pig in s
t fiddling with the Vantage 
Hoping to tackle some front end jobs logically together:
-Change the air filters
-Replace the floppy door struts
-Change the old green side repeaters
-Give the rotor centers a lick of silver paint (will do rears too)
-General proper clean up of both arches, brakes and wheels
All requiring the wheel arch liner to be removed.
Is it a simple job, or is it one of those that should be in theory but ends up a headache? Any pitfalls to look out for and any clips/fixings i'm likely to break and need to find replacements for in advance?
Cheers
t fiddling with the Vantage Hoping to tackle some front end jobs logically together:
-Change the air filters
-Replace the floppy door struts
-Change the old green side repeaters
-Give the rotor centers a lick of silver paint (will do rears too)
-General proper clean up of both arches, brakes and wheels
All requiring the wheel arch liner to be removed.
Is it a simple job, or is it one of those that should be in theory but ends up a headache? Any pitfalls to look out for and any clips/fixings i'm likely to break and need to find replacements for in advance?
Cheers
Hmm, i have removed mine more times than i care to remember and every time i think its a complete dÎck.
There is more than one type of fastener, you have the regular large head torx but there are also some that are screwed into the edge of the front bumper, doing it correctly you should remove the splitter but you can pull it out of the way once the fasteners are out.
Once all the fittings are out it will take some fighting with it to get it out of the wheel arch.
Also the door strut replacement is a knob, my advice on that is just to use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to knock the retaining clips off completely rather than trying to remove them.
Finally if your using transit connect indicators you will need to trim them with a blade ass the composite wings on the aston are much thicker than steel so need a larger gap in the fitting.
Hope this helps.
IainWhy said:
Hmm, i have removed mine more times than i care to remember and every time i think its a complete dÎck.
There is more than one type of fastener, you have the regular large head torx but there are also some that are screwed into the edge of the front bumper, doing it correctly you should remove the splitter but you can pull it out of the way once the fasteners are out.
Once all the fittings are out it will take some fighting with it to get it out of the wheel arch.
Also the door strut replacement is a knob, my advice on that is just to use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to knock the retaining clips off completely rather than trying to remove them.
Finally if your using transit connect indicators you will need to trim them with a blade ass the composite wings on the aston are much thicker than steel so need a larger gap in the fitting.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Iain and all above.There is more than one type of fastener, you have the regular large head torx but there are also some that are screwed into the edge of the front bumper, doing it correctly you should remove the splitter but you can pull it out of the way once the fasteners are out.
Once all the fittings are out it will take some fighting with it to get it out of the wheel arch.
Also the door strut replacement is a knob, my advice on that is just to use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to knock the retaining clips off completely rather than trying to remove them.
Finally if your using transit connect indicators you will need to trim them with a blade ass the composite wings on the aston are much thicker than steel so need a larger gap in the fitting.
Hope this helps.
Got OEM indicators for £20 a pop so hopefully will fit straight in. For the struts my new ones arrive tomorrow, I presume the new ones have new retaining clips?
Also, I haven't actually checked but does the front undertray need to come off also? Will be an added ballache doing it on the drive on axle stands!
Yea the gas strut should come with all new clamps, access is as usual the pain, its just difficult to get your eye and hand on it in a coordinated way, the door sides are easy though.
The undertray doesn't need to come off for any of the jobs you mention, its considerably easier to remove and refit than the wheel arch liners anyway as it doesn't flap about like an escaped bird
The undertray doesn't need to come off for any of the jobs you mention, its considerably easier to remove and refit than the wheel arch liners anyway as it doesn't flap about like an escaped bird
Arghhhh what a pig of a job this is. Can’t get to the two bolts on the inner edge of the air box as under the undertray…. And the screws holding the under tray on in the middle are absolutely seized 
also a Philips screw completely rounded and the bottom of the liner on the door side.
Off to toolstation for some torx Allen keys to get at the two under the tray
Also, is the bumper supposed to have writing in pen on it inside from factory, or have I got a replacement on mine
also a Philips screw completely rounded and the bottom of the liner on the door side. Off to toolstation for some torx Allen keys to get at the two under the tray
Also, is the bumper supposed to have writing in pen on it inside from factory, or have I got a replacement on mine
IainWhy said:
always the way, still, now you know!.
As the the bumper writing, yea, normal, i took my old bumper off to fit one i had chopped holes in and the inside on the drivers side has a number of paint pen codes.
Indeed.... feel guilty for buying BluePrint ones now, even though they’re probably out of the same factory As the the bumper writing, yea, normal, i took my old bumper off to fit one i had chopped holes in and the inside on the drivers side has a number of paint pen codes.
Good to know re: scribbles under panels. Have to say it does somewhat take the shine off (literally) looking under and beyond the ceramic coated glossy polished exterior at 16 years of s
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