Independent garage in Kent areas to fix rear light moisture
Discussion
Morning all, my rear lights have started showing condensation every time it rains and I'd like to try to get them fixed, if possible, rather than simply replaced at great cost at my local official dealer where I imagine this is the only option.
Does anyone know of an independent dealer in Kent or Surrey/Kent borders who would look at this? Otherwise I'll have to do it myself but can't be ar*ed.
Does anyone know of an independent dealer in Kent or Surrey/Kent borders who would look at this? Otherwise I'll have to do it myself but can't be ar*ed.
If my experience is anything to go by, a dealer, indy or otherwise, will just tell you you need a new unit.
I know of two people on eBay who offer a repair service. One tried to repair my light twice and failed twice, so I will neither mention nor recommend him. The other, who I have not tried but may be worth a go, is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304057287263
I know of two people on eBay who offer a repair service. One tried to repair my light twice and failed twice, so I will neither mention nor recommend him. The other, who I have not tried but may be worth a go, is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304057287263
Thanks a lot. Worth a call to both of these firms.
In my case the lights are still working fine so at least for now I'm just looking to reseal them. There is a helpful video on YouTube on how to remove and repair them which is an option and doesn't look beyond the wit of man but always best to leave to experts.
In my case the lights are still working fine so at least for now I'm just looking to reseal them. There is a helpful video on YouTube on how to remove and repair them which is an option and doesn't look beyond the wit of man but always best to leave to experts.
Since I’ve been too scared to try to prise apart the light and risk damaging it I’ve fixed this problem on a couple of rear lights on other makes by simply running a bead of silicone sealant along the seam where the clear lens meets the body of the unit. I haven’t seen the Aston rear lights up close but wonder if this method might be possible here?
Caslad said:
Since I’ve been too scared to try to prise apart the light and risk damaging it I’ve fixed this problem on a couple of rear lights on other makes by simply running a bead of silicone sealant along the seam where the clear lens meets the body of the unit. I haven’t seen the Aston rear lights up close but wonder if this method might be possible here?
You have to get the water out first, otherwise it can go on to confuse/knacker the electrics/LEDs and throw up various warnings on the dash. I tried fixing mine with a few days in the airing cupboard and then sealing, but to no avail.I remember when light covers just undid with two screws and you could swap bulbs in seconds. But that would be too simple!
Sorry but if you ‘ can’t be arsed’ then you’ll have to pay the money.
Its quite an easy fix.
Remove the unit (10min), drill a 10mm hole in the bottom, use air line to blow dry air through (or just leave it somewhere dry for a few days)
When dry, goretex patch on the hole, find and seal up the crack/leak where the water gets in (if you don’t want the moisture to come back) and refit the unit.
Don’t over tighten when you refit or you will crack the plastic light unit.
Its quite an easy fix.
Remove the unit (10min), drill a 10mm hole in the bottom, use air line to blow dry air through (or just leave it somewhere dry for a few days)
When dry, goretex patch on the hole, find and seal up the crack/leak where the water gets in (if you don’t want the moisture to come back) and refit the unit.
Don’t over tighten when you refit or you will crack the plastic light unit.
There isn’t anywhere in Kent that I’d recommend. The closest specialists are east London (P&L) or Sussex/Surrey (VE).
Assuming the lights still work and you don’t need to split the case (the tricky oven thing), then a fix is easy, it’s just as described, and there are videos on you tube (redpants) and guides in the ‘common problems/fixes’ sticky.
Some drill two holes, one to put the dry air line in and one to let the air escape (taking the moisture with it). I didn’t have an airline handy in the kitchen when I did mine a winter or two ago so jerry-rigged something with the mrs’s hair dryer. The warm air worked a treat.
Another tip to make sure the water doesn’t get in is to find the crack letting it in, this can be done by creating a slight positive pressure using the airline in low flow and jamming a rag or something into the holes (be careful, you have to still allow the air to bleed out, you don’t want to blow the thing apart).
With the slight positive pressure the air will also leak from the cracks, or where the seal has failed. You can find it using a mix of water and washing up liquid (soap test), just like we used to find the puncture in our push bike inner tubes.
When you’ve found and marked the leaks (much more important to fix them if they are on the top of the unit where the water helpfully is funnelled onto it by the boot channel…. you can apply some sealant to seal it. Test again (gently) with the soap test to confirm a seal and you are good. Remember, it’s only really important to seal the leaks if they are on the top or sides of the light assembly. Gravity will prevent water from leaping up and in to any seal failures or cracks at the bottom.
Goretex patches on the two holes once dry and you are good to refit. Alignment can be a faff, but it’s no more than 15-30 min of fiddling dependent on how fussy you are.
If you absolutely determined to find someone else to do it all for you, and don’t want to pay the £1k per side for new units fitted and guaranteed by a FD or specialist, then it’s possible a specialists or a ‘have a go’ garage will be prepared to ‘have a go’. Problem is, due to all the ‘waiting time’ and different stages and tests you could end up with a labour (plus VAT) bill not far off the cost of buying new units, and still have absolutely no guarantee of success.
It’s the same old story, the extreme cost of labour and the complexity and fragility of modern stuff means that the vast majority of repair shops of any type increasingly shy away from attempting any kind of real fix or repair. If a garage can’t guarantee success, and the faffing around and eventual bill could be the same as a new component, then it’s easy to see that supply and fit of new parts is always the default solution.
Assuming the lights still work and you don’t need to split the case (the tricky oven thing), then a fix is easy, it’s just as described, and there are videos on you tube (redpants) and guides in the ‘common problems/fixes’ sticky.
Some drill two holes, one to put the dry air line in and one to let the air escape (taking the moisture with it). I didn’t have an airline handy in the kitchen when I did mine a winter or two ago so jerry-rigged something with the mrs’s hair dryer. The warm air worked a treat.
Another tip to make sure the water doesn’t get in is to find the crack letting it in, this can be done by creating a slight positive pressure using the airline in low flow and jamming a rag or something into the holes (be careful, you have to still allow the air to bleed out, you don’t want to blow the thing apart).
With the slight positive pressure the air will also leak from the cracks, or where the seal has failed. You can find it using a mix of water and washing up liquid (soap test), just like we used to find the puncture in our push bike inner tubes.
When you’ve found and marked the leaks (much more important to fix them if they are on the top of the unit where the water helpfully is funnelled onto it by the boot channel…. you can apply some sealant to seal it. Test again (gently) with the soap test to confirm a seal and you are good. Remember, it’s only really important to seal the leaks if they are on the top or sides of the light assembly. Gravity will prevent water from leaping up and in to any seal failures or cracks at the bottom.
Goretex patches on the two holes once dry and you are good to refit. Alignment can be a faff, but it’s no more than 15-30 min of fiddling dependent on how fussy you are.
If you absolutely determined to find someone else to do it all for you, and don’t want to pay the £1k per side for new units fitted and guaranteed by a FD or specialist, then it’s possible a specialists or a ‘have a go’ garage will be prepared to ‘have a go’. Problem is, due to all the ‘waiting time’ and different stages and tests you could end up with a labour (plus VAT) bill not far off the cost of buying new units, and still have absolutely no guarantee of success.
It’s the same old story, the extreme cost of labour and the complexity and fragility of modern stuff means that the vast majority of repair shops of any type increasingly shy away from attempting any kind of real fix or repair. If a garage can’t guarantee success, and the faffing around and eventual bill could be the same as a new component, then it’s easy to see that supply and fit of new parts is always the default solution.
Edited by Calinours on Tuesday 15th August 14:10
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