V12 Vantage – safe way of getting on axle stands?
Discussion
It’s new tyres and wheel refurb time and I need to get the car on stands. I have searched everywhere but cannot see a clear way of doing this for the V12V.
I believe it's more straightforward on the V8V as you can jack in the middle on the outer rail as per the Redpants video. However, on V12V, there is that plastic sill which restricts access to the outer rail.
It seems possible to jack up the front as the outer rail is exposed near the correct point meaning I can jack up and get an axle stand into the correct spot (I'll be using those fancy rubber pads with the stands). It’s the rear of the car that I am stuck with.
Does anyone have any experience of getting the car on axle stands without using the inner chassis rail? I have read several threads warning not to go near this.
Is it safe to jack up the car in the middle directly against the plastic sill but with a rubber/wooden block to spread the load? If you jack up the front, will the rear of the car come up too so you get a stand into the correct spot at the rear?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I believe it's more straightforward on the V8V as you can jack in the middle on the outer rail as per the Redpants video. However, on V12V, there is that plastic sill which restricts access to the outer rail.
It seems possible to jack up the front as the outer rail is exposed near the correct point meaning I can jack up and get an axle stand into the correct spot (I'll be using those fancy rubber pads with the stands). It’s the rear of the car that I am stuck with.
Does anyone have any experience of getting the car on axle stands without using the inner chassis rail? I have read several threads warning not to go near this.
Is it safe to jack up the car in the middle directly against the plastic sill but with a rubber/wooden block to spread the load? If you jack up the front, will the rear of the car come up too so you get a stand into the correct spot at the rear?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You need kind of 'n' shaped stands with detachable legs. The horizontal goes between the trolley jack and car, following which you jack up the car and attach the legs which go on either side. Then drop the jack until the legs support the car, and pull out the jack. I must get around to making some.
Check out JackPoint jack stands, they are US-based and ship worldwide. I have been very happy with them; I use a low profile jack, the recessed pads offered by JackPoint combined with Jack Pad Adapters from HSM Precision (adapters specific to varying years/models of Aston seem to be somewhat common.)
Not a cheap solution but good achieved height, very solid, low-tech, portable and easy to store. Essentially you are jacking up the car using only the factory approved jacking points, sliding the JackPoint stand into place around the end of the jack, and lowering the car down on to the stand (I have four but can lift any or all wheels off the ground).
JackPoint is designed to work across makes but the HSM adapters are model specific (some people use hockey pucks or wood blocks). I have a 2014 Vantage roadster and can attest to the jigsaw puzzle nature of the jacking points across the model lines.
Not a cheap solution but good achieved height, very solid, low-tech, portable and easy to store. Essentially you are jacking up the car using only the factory approved jacking points, sliding the JackPoint stand into place around the end of the jack, and lowering the car down on to the stand (I have four but can lift any or all wheels off the ground).
JackPoint is designed to work across makes but the HSM adapters are model specific (some people use hockey pucks or wood blocks). I have a 2014 Vantage roadster and can attest to the jigsaw puzzle nature of the jacking points across the model lines.
Edited by Hedged on Friday 18th August 17:32
The JackPoint stands have an opening on one side that you fit around the lifted end of the jack once the car is raised up (utilizing the proper Aston jack points). You then lower the car to the point where the jack is no longer supporting the weight of the car but instead the car now securely rests on the JackPoint stand. There is a video on their website....I'll post some photos when I can.
Thanks for your replies. Whilst the Jackpoint stands look to be a great solution, I am keen to get the wheels off this weekend and also avoid the $850 expense to be honest.
I wonder if I am over thinking all this. I have just checked the AM dealer vehicle health check video from the last service and can see that the pads for the vehicle lift are nowhere near the jacking points on the outer chassis rails. At the rear, they look to be placed on the inner chassis rail and at the front, the pad seems to be inbetween the inner/outer rails just behind the drainage tubes.
I am concluding that the advice in the manual highlighting the 4 x jacking points is for only when the car is "to be raised using a vehicle jack" (emphasis on raising by a jack). In otherwords, if the whole vehicle is raised by a lift system, the pads can be placed elsewhere - presumably because the weight is distributed more evenly.
My thoughts are that I should jack the front on the outer rail near the official spot and then place the stands at the correct jack points. For the rear, jack the car at the correct place on the outer rail, and then place the stands on the inner rail as per the dealer lift system and use a big block of wood to distribute the weight. I'll try to jack both sides at the rear at the same time so that car comes down on both rear stands at the same time.
Would this seem sensible do you think?
Thanks again for any comments.
I wonder if I am over thinking all this. I have just checked the AM dealer vehicle health check video from the last service and can see that the pads for the vehicle lift are nowhere near the jacking points on the outer chassis rails. At the rear, they look to be placed on the inner chassis rail and at the front, the pad seems to be inbetween the inner/outer rails just behind the drainage tubes.
I am concluding that the advice in the manual highlighting the 4 x jacking points is for only when the car is "to be raised using a vehicle jack" (emphasis on raising by a jack). In otherwords, if the whole vehicle is raised by a lift system, the pads can be placed elsewhere - presumably because the weight is distributed more evenly.
My thoughts are that I should jack the front on the outer rail near the official spot and then place the stands at the correct jack points. For the rear, jack the car at the correct place on the outer rail, and then place the stands on the inner rail as per the dealer lift system and use a big block of wood to distribute the weight. I'll try to jack both sides at the rear at the same time so that car comes down on both rear stands at the same time.
Would this seem sensible do you think?
Thanks again for any comments.
You would think a couple of inches away from the jacking point might still be safe, but then we are reminded of the Aston Martin owner, who went to a (presumably back street) tyre fitter. His car became a write-off, following incorrect jacking.
Once those long rails are bent, that is the end. Something to do with crash structure.
It seems all rather awkward.
Hedged said:
Check out JackPoint jack stands, they are US-based and ship worldwide. I have been very happy with them; I use a low profile jack, the recessed pads offered by JackPoint combined with Jack Pad Adapters from HSM Precision (adapters specific to varying years/models of Aston seem to be somewhat common.)
Not a cheap solution but good achieved height, very solid, low-tech, portable and easy to store. Essentially you are jacking up the car using only the factory approved jacking points, sliding the JackPoint stand into place around the end of the jack, and lowering the car down on to the stand (I have four but can lift any or all wheels off the ground).
JackPoint is designed to work across makes but the HSM adapters are model specific (some people use hockey pucks or wood blocks). I have a 2014 Vantage roadster and can attest to the jigsaw puzzle nature of the jacking points across the model lines.
Another thumbs up for JackPoint stands.Not a cheap solution but good achieved height, very solid, low-tech, portable and easy to store. Essentially you are jacking up the car using only the factory approved jacking points, sliding the JackPoint stand into place around the end of the jack, and lowering the car down on to the stand (I have four but can lift any or all wheels off the ground).
JackPoint is designed to work across makes but the HSM adapters are model specific (some people use hockey pucks or wood blocks). I have a 2014 Vantage roadster and can attest to the jigsaw puzzle nature of the jacking points across the model lines.
Edited by Hedged on Friday 18th August 17:32
without trying to be a knob, its fairly simple, any of the hardpoints of the car are fine to lift on with a bit of sympathy (read a chunk of rubber/hockey puck).
As you mention you can get anywhere on the outer sill, generally a good lift on the front will pick up that entire side.. \the front cross member will easily support stands as you can see here:
HTH
At the rear the rear carrier bushings will take the load if needed. do not lift anywhere other than the outer sills in respect of the floorplan, but you can be sensible in terms of using the subframes.
You can clearly see the solid mountings on the rear frame
As you mention you can get anywhere on the outer sill, generally a good lift on the front will pick up that entire side.. \the front cross member will easily support stands as you can see here:
HTH
At the rear the rear carrier bushings will take the load if needed. do not lift anywhere other than the outer sills in respect of the floorplan, but you can be sensible in terms of using the subframes.
You can clearly see the solid mountings on the rear frame
Edited by IainWhy on Monday 21st August 10:30
Thanks all for your further replies.
I aborted any plans of supporting the rear of the car on the inner rail regardless of seeing the dealer's hoist video. Just looking at 'that' photo of the written off car made me feel sick.
I'm still pondering what to do but definitely not touching the inner rail. The wheel refurb guys would probably just stick 4 trolley jacks under each jack point and have done. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and do this......
I aborted any plans of supporting the rear of the car on the inner rail regardless of seeing the dealer's hoist video. Just looking at 'that' photo of the written off car made me feel sick.
I'm still pondering what to do but definitely not touching the inner rail. The wheel refurb guys would probably just stick 4 trolley jacks under each jack point and have done. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and do this......
De-lurk said:
Thanks all for your further replies.
I aborted any plans of supporting the rear of the car on the inner rail regardless of seeing the dealer's hoist video. Just looking at 'that' photo of the written off car made me feel sick.
I'm still pondering what to do but definitely not touching the inner rail. The wheel refurb guys would probably just stick 4 trolley jacks under each jack point and have done. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and do this......
Quickjack is better if you dont mind storing them against a wall. Love mineI aborted any plans of supporting the rear of the car on the inner rail regardless of seeing the dealer's hoist video. Just looking at 'that' photo of the written off car made me feel sick.
I'm still pondering what to do but definitely not touching the inner rail. The wheel refurb guys would probably just stick 4 trolley jacks under each jack point and have done. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and do this......
If, and it’s a big if, I ever do any tinkering again, I’ll certainly be investing in either the Quick jack or Jackpoint solutions.
Well, it’s on its stands….! What are stressful 45mins that was. I ended up jacking on the outer rail just near the front jacking point with a MASSIVE jack which raised the rear too so that I could get the stand under. It felt horrible raising it so high on the jack to do this. Anyway, one side done and then a quick repeat on the other.
Now looking forward to new SC7’s to replace the 10 year old P Zero’s. That’s after reprogramming the Smartire TMPS for the new sensors. Another thing to look forward to….
Thanks again.
Well, it’s on its stands….! What are stressful 45mins that was. I ended up jacking on the outer rail just near the front jacking point with a MASSIVE jack which raised the rear too so that I could get the stand under. It felt horrible raising it so high on the jack to do this. Anyway, one side done and then a quick repeat on the other.
Now looking forward to new SC7’s to replace the 10 year old P Zero’s. That’s after reprogramming the Smartire TMPS for the new sensors. Another thing to look forward to….
Thanks again.
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