New car- Fuse pull time!

[m99rac]

Hello all,

Having previously owned a V12 Vantage I decided to pull the pin and come back to the better life once again with a 2014 V12S from the good folk at McGurk’s.
Just looking for a little advice please ref the all important Fuse 22 removal subject. I seem to recall on my other car (2012) it was Fuse 22 but I’ve recently been told that on the 2014 cars and beyond it is infact now Fuse 15? Can anyone shed some light on this please? Many thanks and looking forward to chatting with everyone more…..hopefully not with too many problems!

[TheHoof]

Do you have the owners manual? If so, I'd consult that.

I've got a 2013 Vantage S - I don't have the manual to hand as it's in the car, however a PDF I have that claims to be for a 2013 car lists it Fuse 22 in the boot fuse box.

Or just pull it and see what happens

[m99rac]

Thank you very much for your reply to this! Much appreciated! I did infact look at the manual and it states Fuse 15 for the valves and 22 states unavailable which is strange. I have heard through some YouTube channels that the manual isn’t actually correct but then some contradict this. My car is a Sportshift 3 so I’m wondering if the box is numbered differently to that of a manual as well as the difference in the year models.

[stevenichols]

Easiest way is turn the ignition on and pull the fuse. You will hear a hiss as the vacuum pump dissipates. Put it back in and you'll hear the pump start up.

[andratch]

On the 13-16 DB9, it's Trunk Fuse 15 that disables the exhaust valves. I believe it's the same on the Vantage. You should be able to immediately notice a difference in noise when you pull it at idle, so you can check that way.

The car will also log a fault (internal, NOT a check engine light) that notes the valves aren't functioning, you'll be able to see that to confirm that with an OBDII reader to see you pulled the right fuse too.

[LTP]

andratch said:

The car will also log a fault (internal, NOT a check engine light) that notes the valves aren't functioning, you'll be able to see that to confirm that with an OBDII reader to see you pulled the right fuse too.

Are you sure? The valves are completely "dumb" on the VH Vantage (and DB9), mechanically operated when a vacuum is pulled and with no feedback to the ECU as to whether they closed or not (no vacuum = open).

Different matter on the 2C cars, that use an electrical actuator with feedback that can even cause the car to go into "limp home"

[EVR]

Yeah, can confirm that on my previous 2010 N420 it was fuse 15 and the OBD registered an error every time I used the CC Charger remote. P1488 if I am not mistaken.

[m99rac]

stevenichols said:

Easiest way is turn the ignition on and pull the fuse. You will hear a hiss as the vacuum pump dissipates. Put it back in and you'll hear the pump start up.

Thank you, that is very useful! Will give that a whirl!

[m99rac]

Many thanks for all of your help gents. Much appreciated.
On another note have any of you experienced a key that is falling apart? I believe the plastic key body can be replaced and the internals replaced quite easily without having to recode? It’s the plastic windows of the buttons that are collapsing on mine.

[andratch]

LTP said:

Are you sure? The valves are completely "dumb" on the VH Vantage (and DB9), mechanically operated when a vacuum is pulled and with no feedback to the ECU as to whether they closed or not (no vacuum = open).

Different matter on the 2C cars, that use an electrical actuator with feedback that can even cause the car to go into "limp home"

Yes, I'm sure. Aston1936 noted the same.

I have had Fuse 15 pulled on my car for some time now. If I plug in my OBDII scanner, it will show a soft code, but no CEL. So, it logs it, but it won't impact the lights on your dashboard.

[TheHoof]

m99rac said:

I believe the plastic key body can be replaced and the internals replaced quite easily without having to recode? It s the plastic windows of the buttons that are collapsing on mine.

https://phoenixbespokekeys.com/marques/bespoke-ast... might be a place to look. I’ve not got a problem with the valet key, but am eyeing them up for repairing my glass key.

[p102768]

m99rac said:

Many thanks for all of your help gents. Much appreciated.
On another note have any of you experienced a key that is falling apart? I believe the plastic key body can be replaced and the internals replaced quite easily without having to recode? It s the plastic windows of the buttons that are collapsing on mine.

I don't know if they are still producing them but someone on one of the AML Facebook groups was 3D printing the buttons. I replaced the ones in my platic fob and it looks a lot better.

[geresey]

p102768 said:

m99rac said:

Many thanks for all of your help gents. Much appreciated.
On another note have any of you experienced a key that is falling apart? I believe the plastic key body can be replaced and the internals replaced quite easily without having to recode? It s the plastic windows of the buttons that are collapsing on mine.

I don't know if they are still producing them but someone on one of the AML Facebook groups was 3D printing the buttons. I replaced the ones in my platic fob and it looks a lot better.

Me too. There was a thread on it somewhere. Did mine a couple of years ago and been fine up to recently where the lock button sometimes needs extra pressure to click

I got mine here - https://ebay.us/m/jqyztA

[geresey]

PS - that was just for the buttons. I did see an ad for an end piece too whilst looking for the link to the seller I used.

Edited by geresey on Thursday 30th October 14:40