Fuse questions
Discussion
Vantage 2020, I was checking my fuse box while I noted the following discrepancies:
Questions:
1. I think is it not recommended to have a higher amperage fuse if a lower one is needed, right?
2. Can I pick the correct 5A ones from the empty spaces on the list, in orange?
2a. What is the difference from a completely empty space (F5) and one with a recommended fuse amperage (F15)? In other words, do the fuses in empty spaces do anything and should be kept?
Questions:
1. I think is it not recommended to have a higher amperage fuse if a lower one is needed, right?
2. Can I pick the correct 5A ones from the empty spaces on the list, in orange?
2a. What is the difference from a completely empty space (F5) and one with a recommended fuse amperage (F15)? In other words, do the fuses in empty spaces do anything and should be kept?
Having noticed those, I would change them for the recommended fuses. For instance, it seems highly unlikely that one front seat needs a different fuse rating from the other when both are stated as being the same on the chart.
As regards unlabelled fuses I would either leave well alone or check whether there's anything connected. A basic check would involve removing the fuse and using a voltmeter/continuity tester to find out which side of the fuse holder is connected to the red battery lead and whether the other side is connected to the chassis. If there's no continuity with the chassis then probably there's nothing connected to that fuse - but you can't be sure because it might be feeding a relay that's on another circuit. Which brings me back to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
As regards unlabelled fuses I would either leave well alone or check whether there's anything connected. A basic check would involve removing the fuse and using a voltmeter/continuity tester to find out which side of the fuse holder is connected to the red battery lead and whether the other side is connected to the chassis. If there's no continuity with the chassis then probably there's nothing connected to that fuse - but you can't be sure because it might be feeding a relay that's on another circuit. Which brings me back to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Right, so I have been pretty stupid with this but my error might benefit the community so here I am.
Long story short: never mess with the fuses even if they are the wrong position/amperage according to the manual.
After having rectified what I thought was wrong, the car threw an "eDiff fault, module disabled".
Fortunately I kept track of the modified fuses and put everything back as it was and no more errors. But yeah, the fuses shown in the manual are not the absolute truth. Those that I have changed on paper were not even responsible for the eDiff (Multimedia Box & Tailgate Latch) but here we are.
Boredom sometimes is very dangerous!
Long story short: never mess with the fuses even if they are the wrong position/amperage according to the manual.
After having rectified what I thought was wrong, the car threw an "eDiff fault, module disabled".
Fortunately I kept track of the modified fuses and put everything back as it was and no more errors. But yeah, the fuses shown in the manual are not the absolute truth. Those that I have changed on paper were not even responsible for the eDiff (Multimedia Box & Tailgate Latch) but here we are.
Boredom sometimes is very dangerous!
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