Fault - ASM Fluid & Pipes
Fault - ASM Fluid & Pipes
Author
Discussion

SunnyUK

Original Poster:

2 posts

4 months

Wednesday 21st January
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Hi Everyone

I've got a 65' plate V8V Sportshift II.

I had the "Fault - No Gear Change Possible" error flash up a few times and, after some googling, suspect it's the hoses that have failed for the ASM Fluid, which seems to be a common occurrence with these.

Has anybody in the UK had the ASM Fluid & Hoses replaced recently? If so would you mind sharing approx how much it cost? I've had quotes from 2 different AM garages and there was quite a bit of difference.

Thanks in advance...

JA.Aston

31 posts

63 months

Wednesday 21st January
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£250.00 + vat for upgraded pipes plus £400 + vat fitting is what DAE charge

tom-4hcey

158 posts

106 months

Wednesday 21st January
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I used the DAE pipes on my sportshift 2 vantage s as my existing ones had perished they seem much better quality than the original ones. From memory I think they were about £300 to supply then I had to buy the castrol asm fluid.

BlackTails

2,978 posts

80 months

Thursday 22nd January
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Don’t know about the V8, but for the V12 an Aston main dealer wanted a hefty sum for labour because the gearbox had to come out to replace the pipes. An Indy managed to do it for a lot less without dropping the gear box.

And yes: the DAE option, which I believe is sourced from Velocity AP, is the way to go.

JA.Aston

31 posts

63 months

Thursday 22nd January
quotequote all
BlackTails said:
Don t know about the V8, but for the V12 an Aston main dealer wanted a hefty sum for labour because the gearbox had to come out to replace the pipes. An Indy managed to do it for a lot less without dropping the gear box.

And yes: the DAE option, which I believe is sourced from Velocity AP, is the way to go.
Other way round, VelocityAP sell the DAE ones!

SHIFTY

994 posts

261 months

Thursday 22nd January
quotequote all
Mine were changed under the AM Timeless warranty and dealer did not drop gearbox on a V12 Vantage.

Import

362 posts

55 months

SunnyUK

Original Poster:

2 posts

4 months

Thursday 22nd January
quotequote all
JA.Aston said:
£250.00 + vat for upgraded pipes plus £400 + vat fitting is what DAE charge
Got quoted about £1200 inc vat by Aston Workshop up North.

AM Brentwood - £1600 inc vat
AM Sevenoaks - £2389 inc vat

Waiting for a quote from Hilton & Moss in Bishops Stortford (as that's the closest to where the car currently is)

Does any one have any recommendations around this area/North Essex area?

It seems quite pricey compared to what you guys have mentioned.

ZT260SE

180 posts

47 months

Saturday 11th April
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Can t help with recommendations in Essex area, but sharing pricing intel.

I’ve just had mine done by Aston Keeper (Indy in Staines I’ve used previously): £625 + VAT for labour and DAE pipes which they supplied (they keep them in stock as they do about two a month).

AM main dealer wanted £1,830 including VAT, labour and original parts (which many suggest aren’t t as good as the DAE pipes).

Edited by ZT260SE on Saturday 11th April 21:05


Edited by ZT260SE on Saturday 11th April 21:06

AnonSA

40 posts

31 months

Wednesday 29th April
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DAE silicone parts are far superior to the original Aston parts. It’s about 3 hours labour to change the pipes. Should come in less than £1000 fitted.

ragingfool

176 posts

262 months

Thursday 30th April
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i too purchased the sequparts hoses but have not installed yet. someone recently documented how to change them without removing anything from another post. not sure how to attach it here?
ok just pasted below from Sep 2024 if you want to search on Pistonheads or 6speedonline i think there might have been a couple of pictures

Edited by ragingfool on Thursday 30th April 00:19


Tools/Supplies:
11-inch side cutters (Snap-On)
Shop lamp (Harbor freight)
Drain pan (Amazon)
Brake clean (BMW)
4 ramps (Harbor freight)
2 jacks (Harbor freight - Daytona Rapid pump)
3/8 Sockets (Milwaukee)
1/4 inch sockets (Milwaukee)
1/4 inch hex impact driver with 3/8 adapter (Milwaukee)
New hoses and clamps (https://www.sequparts.com/product-ca...ge-sportshift/)
4 wheel chocks (Amazon)
Harbor freight hand pump (Orange set)
3 bottles of CHF 11S Long-Life Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid (Amazon)
Scan tool optional (Foxwell diag)


3. Remove rear under shield (recommended: clean the bolts on a wire wheel before reinstalling if they appear crusty)I used my impact to save time but I'm sure the neighbors didn't enjoy that at 1am

4. Locate all 4 ends of the hoses and begin on the bottom line (the most straight hose) Place your drain pan under the hose you are about the work on. Cut both clamps off with sharp side cutters. I used a new Snap-On set. Remove hose and set aside. Most of the fluid will drain out.

5. Use the 11 inch side cutters to carefully reach up to the top most clamp and cut it (It takes longer if you have dull cutters or weak fingers because with how far up the clamp is, you don't have much handle length left on the cutters to squeeze.

6. Place new hoses in place for a dry fit, then begin tightening the clamps, I did the hard to reach ones first to get them out of the way. (Do not over tighten them, these are metal clamps tightening on plastic, you can crack the reservoir which will cost over $300 in the part alone.

7. Fill the reservoir with CHF 11S until full and replace cap, then either start the car or use a scan tool to initiate a bleed procedure. If using the car running method, only open the bleed screw for a second and close it then check the reservoir, it drains quickly using this method. Fill as needed and bleed it again then check the level and replace the cap.

8. Clean everything with brake clean that got dirty and wipe dirt as necessary.

9. Reinstall rear under shield.

10. Lower the back of the car first and put the wheel chocks back behind the rear wheels.

11. Lower the front of the car, Done. If your car leaks like mine did, you filled the reservoir too much. Just clean the mess, check the level and don't stress.


Notes:
Do not remove the exhaust
Do not lower the transmission
Do not remove the rear subframe support bar, just work around it

Yes there is just enough room to get the cutters up top, but make sure you have new if not almost new cutters. The exhaust was annoying but I worked around it. You can fit both arms around it (like a bear hug). I used 2 bottles but it's always good to have an extra since my local stores don't carry any. I could not get my scan tool to actually bleed it. I heard the pump activate but nothing came out so I just started the car instead and bled it for a split second at a time.

Edited by ragingfool on Thursday 30th April 00:20


Edited by ragingfool on Thursday 30th April 00:24