To underseal or not to underseal...

[Simpo Two]

I have a 2014 Vanquish in very good condition. I was swapping notes with the previous owner and he recommended that for year round use, as it will be, I should consider getting it undersealed.

Last time I did this was with a TVR Griffith 25 years ago.It went on a ramp, had black waxoyl painted on the chassis and cost about £50. Great.

Now of course we're in Astonland and things get more complicated. Local garages either aren't interested or I don't trust them with it. It's not something I can DIY. Anyway, I ended up swapping e-mails with a helpful chap called Pete Hamber, of Bilt Hamber, who by all accounts seem to make the best underseal. He recommended a chap who can come to my house, jack the car up, take off the wheels (and presumably undertrays though we didn't get to that level of detail) and apply clear or black BH underseal. Sounds ideal.

But with travel it would cost £575, which puts it into the 'Do I really need it that badly?' territory.

What does the panel think?

Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 6th October 13:36

[DB4DM]

What's the car made of?

[Simpo Two]

Topsides are carbon fibre; underneath not sure exactly - much is covered by undertrays - but rear subframes are prone to corrosion and in bad cases have to be refurbished. It's the VH3 platform.

[BlackStang5point0]

After recently viewing a VH platform Aston that had a horribly corroded rear subframe I think it's a must do on these models.

Regarding your quote I'd want to know exactly what prep work they will do before going ahead as like anything it's all in the prep.

[camel_landy]

Simpo Two said:

Topsides are carbon fibre; underneath not sure exactly - much is covered by undertrays - but rear subframes are prone to corrosion and in bad cases have to be refurbished. It's the VH3 platform.

Underneath is a mixture of steel and ally... A perfect recipe for bi-metalic corrosion.

So like TVRs, the fibreglass/carbon will continue to look great on top but can hide a horror story underneath!!

M

[Trevor555]

I'm a car buyer.

If you do it, use the clear underseal.

Black covers up what I'd want to see.

[V8 Minotaur]

I'd say it depends on it being a real keeper.

If so get some quotes for dry ice blasting and then have it ACF50 sprayed soon after - Aston dealers offer this.

https://www.hwmastonmartin.co.uk/service-parts-off...

You can then look to top it up every couple of years as deemed necessary.

[_Rodders_]

Agreed. Or at the very least take before and after pictures to prove you're not hiding anything nasty.

Bilt Hamber is good stuff though.

[RacingSloth69]

I'm looking to give my car a Lanoguard treatment in the next few weeks - similar to the ACF50 solution, clear and doesn't look like you are trying to hide anything

[The V12 Way]

I had this done on my previous V12S vantage, dry ice and lanoguard, where are you located?

V8 Minotaur said:

I'd say it depends on it being a real keeper.

If so get some quotes for dry ice blasting and then have it ACF50 sprayed soon after - Aston dealers offer this.

https://www.hwmastonmartin.co.uk/service-parts-off...

You can then look to top it up every couple of years as deemed necessary.

[V8 Minotaur]

I've watched the dry ice being done at Podium Place, Newbury.

[Simpo Two]

Thanks for the varied replies. I chose Bilt Hamber because it lasts longer than Lanoguard or ACF50. However for more info this is the chap's website - as far as I can tell he seems to have every angle covered: https://mobilerustdoctor.com/

[The V12 Way]

Surley bilthammer is only a surface treatment, lanoguard gets into open end ed cross members etc and protects it all.

Simpo Two said:

Thanks for the varied replies. I chose Bilt Hamber because it lasts longer than Lanoguard or ACF50. However for more info this is the chap's website - as far as I can tell he seems to have every angle covered: https://mobilerustdoctor.com/