2JZ single turbo RX7 FD project :-)
Discussion
Hi just looking for any infomation I can get on the 2JZ RX7 i'm starting to build! Couple of questions I have at the moment are really about what turbo to go for, as I may have to use a cast manifold instead of a tubular one to actually fit in the engine bay!
I am seriously considering the GT35R for fast spool up, but have been told I will have to run quite high boost to run just under 600hp? Does anyone have any experience of using this turbo on a 2JZ?
I have also been recommended to look at a Precision 6765 as I can achieve around 580hp at quite low boost (1.3 bar) (I am also using the mkivsupra forum for any info on this) I am only planning on using one in-tank bosch 044 fuel pump and 850cc injectors on a standard fuel rail. I don't know much about this turbo but don't want one that is too big or laggy for the power i'm looking at running through an R154 box (550-600hp) Any info or advice would really be appreciated!
I am seriously considering the GT35R for fast spool up, but have been told I will have to run quite high boost to run just under 600hp? Does anyone have any experience of using this turbo on a 2JZ?
I have also been recommended to look at a Precision 6765 as I can achieve around 580hp at quite low boost (1.3 bar) (I am also using the mkivsupra forum for any info on this) I am only planning on using one in-tank bosch 044 fuel pump and 850cc injectors on a standard fuel rail. I don't know much about this turbo but don't want one that is too big or laggy for the power i'm looking at running through an R154 box (550-600hp) Any info or advice would really be appreciated!
rwd.wiganer said:
I can't seem to find anything anwhere about what is a 'safe' amount of power to run through a 5 speed R154 box... Cheers!
Its not the power that breaks more the way you change gear, they dont like swift changes. I've run 550 through them with no bother for years. Marlin Crawler do some uprgrades which are worth doing to address the weak links (centre bearing plate etc) Otherwise 6-700 does not seem to break them. A jz will fit into an RZ7 like its supposed to be there, I've ssen a few done, popular conversion in Poland as of late.
I've been running the presision/Garret turbo's since 2006 on my supra. The gt35 is a good choice by spool and power figures but on the mkiv.net forums a few people had catastophic failures with them. They diddn't think it stood up to the high temps very well.
I'm currently running a t67 dual ball bearing model with .68 non-divided housing on a divided manifold. For a number of years this turbo was the one to have, powerful enough for a 10second drag race and, depending on your choice of exhaust housing, smooth enough for track racing.
Basically it's great all-rounder! I've been running this one for 3 years at 26psi on pump fuel without issue. The new T67/65 unit has billet cut blades and a new core design. Mine uses a water and an oil drip feed to cool it but the new ones are air cooled. Having had both a dual ball bearing (DBB) and a journal bearing core t67 I'd opt for dbb if you can spare the money it costs.
The new designs come with didvided exhaust housings so your sizeing will depend on your power & spool goals.
Sound performace and Boostlogic in the U.S are my choice for one of these.
The new one I was recommened was a t67/65 with a .81 non divided housing or a .96 divided.
I hope this helps
Rob
I'm currently running a t67 dual ball bearing model with .68 non-divided housing on a divided manifold. For a number of years this turbo was the one to have, powerful enough for a 10second drag race and, depending on your choice of exhaust housing, smooth enough for track racing.
Basically it's great all-rounder! I've been running this one for 3 years at 26psi on pump fuel without issue. The new T67/65 unit has billet cut blades and a new core design. Mine uses a water and an oil drip feed to cool it but the new ones are air cooled. Having had both a dual ball bearing (DBB) and a journal bearing core t67 I'd opt for dbb if you can spare the money it costs.
The new designs come with didvided exhaust housings so your sizeing will depend on your power & spool goals.
Sound performace and Boostlogic in the U.S are my choice for one of these.
The new one I was recommened was a t67/65 with a .81 non divided housing or a .96 divided.
I hope this helps
Rob
cptsideways said:
Its not the power that breaks more the way you change gear, they dont like swift changes. I've run 550 through them with no bother for years. Marlin Crawler do some uprgrades which are worth doing to address the weak links (centre bearing plate etc) Otherwise 6-700 does not seem to break them.
A jz will fit into an RZ7 like its supposed to be there, I've ssen a few done, popular conversion in Poland as of late.
Thanks for the info! I don't suppose you know what manifolds they are using? (with the JZs in RX7s) I have had a few people advise me that I may have to use a cast manifold as a tubular one may not fit? I know i'm going off topic a bit here but as I know you have a lot of experience with JZ engines :-)... I'm considering uprating the standard head gasket and fitting ARP bolts, but from your experience do you think this is really necessary for up to say 1.6 bar? A jz will fit into an RZ7 like its supposed to be there, I've ssen a few done, popular conversion in Poland as of late.
Bob M said:
I've been running the presision/Garret turbo's since 2006 on my supra. The gt35 is a good choice by spool and power figures but on the mkiv.net forums a few people had catastophic failures with them. They diddn't think it stood up to the high temps very well.
I'm currently running a t67 dual ball bearing model with .68 non-divided housing on a divided manifold. For a number of years this turbo was the one to have, powerful enough for a 10second drag race and, depending on your choice of exhaust housing, smooth enough for track racing.
Basically it's great all-rounder! I've been running this one for 3 years at 26psi on pump fuel without issue. The new T67/65 unit has billet cut blades and a new core design. Mine uses a water and an oil drip feed to cool it but the new ones are air cooled. Having had both a dual ball bearing (DBB) and a journal bearing core t67 I'd opt for dbb if you can spare the money it costs.
The new designs come with didvided exhaust housings so your sizeing will depend on your power & spool goals.
Sound performace and Boostlogic in the U.S are my choice for one of these.
The new one I was recommened was a t67/65 with a .81 non divided housing or a .96 divided.
I hope this helps
Rob
Thanks Rob, I will look more into this before rushing in and just buying a GT35! Could I ask do you have different cams fitted? I'm only asking as i'm looking for a relatively fast spooling turbo to achieve around 600hp atf (or just under) at around 1.6 bar to keep things reliable (touch wood!)...I'm currently running a t67 dual ball bearing model with .68 non-divided housing on a divided manifold. For a number of years this turbo was the one to have, powerful enough for a 10second drag race and, depending on your choice of exhaust housing, smooth enough for track racing.
Basically it's great all-rounder! I've been running this one for 3 years at 26psi on pump fuel without issue. The new T67/65 unit has billet cut blades and a new core design. Mine uses a water and an oil drip feed to cool it but the new ones are air cooled. Having had both a dual ball bearing (DBB) and a journal bearing core t67 I'd opt for dbb if you can spare the money it costs.
The new designs come with didvided exhaust housings so your sizeing will depend on your power & spool goals.
Sound performace and Boostlogic in the U.S are my choice for one of these.
The new one I was recommened was a t67/65 with a .81 non divided housing or a .96 divided.
I hope this helps
Rob
I'm not aiming for anything over this so to not compromise reliability of the box or engine. I think fitting different cams could be a bit over the budget i'm looking to spend, so i'm trying my hardest to find the 'best' turbo to achieve this on a standard engine (hopefully!) I'm only looking to build a fast but reliable road car. I'm hoping the weight I save using the FD body I have might help things a bit!
You will not need to change anything internally to run 550bhp with the right turbo, cams/inlet manifold is the restriction beyond 550bhp. So long as you keep egt's sensible pistons dont give up either.
Stock headgaskets simply dont go wrong, they are steel to start with. The only issue I've seen are caused when you go beyond the stock rpm limts (beyond 7400 ish) which are usually oil related on no 6 bearing.
Give me the width of an RX7 engine bay between the turrets & I'll measure my single turbo up to compare.
If your are doing a rebuild on an engine or sticking a stocker in, I'd at stick all new crank oil seals in, its about the only thing I see failing (they are 15 year old engines!)
Stock headgaskets simply dont go wrong, they are steel to start with. The only issue I've seen are caused when you go beyond the stock rpm limts (beyond 7400 ish) which are usually oil related on no 6 bearing.
Give me the width of an RX7 engine bay between the turrets & I'll measure my single turbo up to compare.
If your are doing a rebuild on an engine or sticking a stocker in, I'd at stick all new crank oil seals in, its about the only thing I see failing (they are 15 year old engines!)
No knowledge to add but have you seen
http://www.tech2motorsports.com/ and
http://www.2jzswap.com/vbulletin/
http://www.tech2motorsports.com/ and
http://www.2jzswap.com/vbulletin/
cptsideways said:
You will not need to change anything internally to run 550bhp with the right turbo, cams/inlet manifold is the restriction beyond 550bhp. So long as you keep egt's sensible pistons dont give up either.
Stock headgaskets simply dont go wrong, they are steel to start with. The only issue I've seen are caused when you go beyond the stock rpm limts (beyond 7400 ish) which are usually oil related on no 6 bearing.
Give me the width of an RX7 engine bay between the turrets & I'll measure my single turbo up to compare.
If your are doing a rebuild on an engine or sticking a stocker in, I'd at stick all new crank oil seals in, its about the only thing I see failing (they are 15 year old engines!)
Thanks for that, I will post the measurements on here as soon as I can. I was advised that the head bolts could be the weak point, but as you have tried and tested the standard gasket and bolts on track, i'm sure it will be fine for the light use I will be using it for on the road... It will be a 2jz I will be using so could you advise me what boost you think would be safe to run on the set up I will be using, and what boost I should be looking at running for hopefully over 550hp? I was planning on leaving the headgasket and bolts standard and won't be changing the cams due to cost. Will be using possibly a gt35r turbo or gtx35r new model that provides better flow?... Bosch 044 700hp in-tank pump, 850cc injectors but standard fuel rail, sard fuel regulator and a mappable ECU, but not sure which yet. I'm still looking to get all the parts together including the R154 box, bellhousing, stage 3 clutch... I believe driftworks do one for a 1jz Soarer that is a straight fit but will look into this unless you know otherwise? Thanks for your help so far! I know there will be a lot more things to do but just trying to get the main parts of my shopping list sorted out for the swap. I will be changing the basics, oil pump, water pump and cambelt, the engine I will be using will be stock so will also look into changing the crank oil seals now you come to mention it... Stock headgaskets simply dont go wrong, they are steel to start with. The only issue I've seen are caused when you go beyond the stock rpm limts (beyond 7400 ish) which are usually oil related on no 6 bearing.
Give me the width of an RX7 engine bay between the turrets & I'll measure my single turbo up to compare.
If your are doing a rebuild on an engine or sticking a stocker in, I'd at stick all new crank oil seals in, its about the only thing I see failing (they are 15 year old engines!)
markCSC said:
No knowledge to add but have you seen
http://www.tech2motorsports.com/ and
http://www.2jzswap.com/vbulletin/
Yep cheers i've seen the US sites before, quite an expensive conversion using their kit!http://www.tech2motorsports.com/ and
http://www.2jzswap.com/vbulletin/
Hi there. My setup is completely std , no cams, std j-spec cams at that. The euro/Uk version has marginally longer duration cams.
I run a direct port water meth injection and a different throttle body. The exhaust setup is a 3" system with a re-circulated wastegate It's twin silencer system thats quite restrictive over 550-600hp. The upside is its only 95db at 4000 rpm .For power I'd go with a 4" system, but it's never going to be trackday friendly.
I run a direct port water meth injection and a different throttle body. The exhaust setup is a 3" system with a re-circulated wastegate It's twin silencer system thats quite restrictive over 550-600hp. The upside is its only 95db at 4000 rpm .For power I'd go with a 4" system, but it's never going to be trackday friendly.
Think I will be going for a 4 inch system. No easy job deciding which turbo to go for, think I will leave that now until I have the engine in place to determine for sure how much room I have for the exhaust and manifold to fit. Will have more time to decide on which turbo to go for too! Something I don't have to order from the US preferably! Will be a 61 or 67mm turbo for sure when I know which will actually fit in the engine bay and suit the standard engine better. I have seen dynographs for a standard engine like yours with a precision dbbt67 showing faster spool up than other t61 turbos on the market! Pretty sure they aren't available off the shelf in the UK but I may be wrong! I could always see if whifbitz do one to suit my needs off the shelf... Just need to find the best deal I can now on r154 box, 1jz flywheel and bellhousing!
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