Discussion
Am considering the options for my next car and the RX7 is in the melting pot. I've had an RX8 before so know all about rotary thirst/reliability etc. I thought the RX8 was a fantastic little car but massively underpowered so rather than spend money making an RX8 quicker I thought it natural to consider an RX7.
What are the different RX7 variants? I know that the latest was the FD3 (may be wrong on this). Were there any others? Which one is considered the one to go for? Are there any known issues (not so fussed about engine as I'll have this overhauled)e.g. corrosion etc. Also, from skimming the classifieds I see there are a lot of imports. Would insurance companies take a dim view on these?
I would probably want a bit more power than standard. Anyone know how easy/expensive it is to extract say 450-500bhp relaiably from the engine? I've heard good things about Re-Worx in Portsmouth so I'd most likely get them to carry out the work.
Finally, any RX7 forums out there?
Ta
What are the different RX7 variants? I know that the latest was the FD3 (may be wrong on this). Were there any others? Which one is considered the one to go for? Are there any known issues (not so fussed about engine as I'll have this overhauled)e.g. corrosion etc. Also, from skimming the classifieds I see there are a lot of imports. Would insurance companies take a dim view on these?
I would probably want a bit more power than standard. Anyone know how easy/expensive it is to extract say 450-500bhp relaiably from the engine? I've heard good things about Re-Worx in Portsmouth so I'd most likely get them to carry out the work.
Finally, any RX7 forums out there?
Ta
Ginger goblin said:
Thanks. FDuk looks like a good forum.
What would separate a good example from a shabby one? Just the normal things (bodywork, service history, HPI etc) or are there specifics to the RX7.
That’s quite a difficult question to answer!! The guys over at MRC or FDUK will be able give much you better advice than me but I’ll answer what I can.What would separate a good example from a shabby one? Just the normal things (bodywork, service history, HPI etc) or are there specifics to the RX7.
Be aware that specs differ massively but they'll all left the factory as twin turbos and there aren't any 'slow' models, the Type R, RS and RZ are the higher spec models and can be identified by the twin oil coolers, with the RS and RZ having bigger brakes and uprated shocks, the RZ also has Recaro seats and BBS wheels. If budget allows post 99 spec cars are the ones to go for and do look a bit more modern, the higher spec models also have the uprated 280+bhp engines. If you’re feeling plush the Spirit R is stunning!!
Bodywork is generally okay, they tend to resist rust quite well, but check the usual places, and any rust is generally a sign of accident damage.
Service History from a RX7 or rotary specialist is essential, simple things such as using the wrong oil (synthetic is a no no) can cause issues and most garages won’t know this.
They’re all too old to worry about HPI.
Always go for low mileage or recent rebuild and always get a compression test done, even if it has a claimed rebuild, any specialist will do these and you’ll be looking for readings above 7 which indicates a very healthy engine, anything in the 6’s is okay and below that you’re entering rebuild territory. I see so many cars for sale which say the cars had a rebuild but they’ve lost the paperwork; in my opinion they’re worth no more than cars without!
The champaign test is another worthwhile test, there’s a guide over at MRC but you basically cold start the car with the coolant cap off and look out for bubbles, as these indicate compression issues which will mean the car needs a rebuild.
Another essential when looking is to warm start a car, any issue with this will likely indicate that compression is low and a rebuild isn’t too far away.
If you’re looking for 450-500bhp the only option is single turbo or uprated twins at a push, the standard turbos will struggle to get past 400bhp. If you’re looking for this kind of power I’d defiantly buy one that’s already been tuned (and by a known tuner) unless you have deep very pockets. You can’t really do anything to standard cars without an uprated ECU such as an APEXi, which alone can cost up to 1k new.
There is always lot of scaremongering when it comes to RX7’s but these often come from non-owners, ultimately it’s probably the best sports car money can buy for 5k. It’s a buyers’ market at moment so there’s no better time.
Edited by philwhite on Friday 23 September 09:44
philwhite said:
That’s quite a difficult question to answer!! The guys over at MRC or FDUK will be able give much you better advice than me but I’ll answer what I can.
Be aware that specs differ massively but they'll all left the factory as twin turbos and there aren't any 'slow' models, the Type R, RS and RZ are the higher spec models and can be identified by the twin oil coolers, with the RS and RZ having bigger brakes and uprated shocks, the RZ also has Recaro seats and BBS wheels. If budget allows post 99 spec cars are the ones to go for and do look a bit more modern, the higher spec models also have the uprated 280+bhp engines. If you’re feeling plush the Spirit R is stunning!!
Bodywork is generally okay, they tend to resist rust quite well, but check the usual places, and any rust is generally a sign of accident damage.
Service History from a RX7 or rotary specialist is essential, simple things such as using the wrong oil (synthetic is a no no) can cause issues and most garages won’t know this.
They’re all too old to worry about HPI.
Always go for low mileage or recent rebuild and always get a compression test done, even if it has a claimed rebuild, any specialist will do these and you’ll be looking for readings above 7 which indicates a very healthy engine, anything in the 6’s is okay and below that you’re entering rebuild territory. I see so many cars for sale which say the cars had a rebuild but they’ve lost the paperwork; in my opinion they’re worth no more than cars without!
The champaign test is another worthwhile test, there’s a guide over at MRC but you basically cold start the car with the coolant cap off and look out for bubbles, as these indicate compression issues which will mean the car needs a rebuild.
Another essential when looking is to warm start a car, any issue with this will likely indicate that compression is low and a rebuild isn’t too far away.
If you’re looking for 450-500bhp the only option is single turbo or uprated twins at a push, the standard turbos will struggle to get past 400bhp. If you’re looking for this kind of power I’d defiantly buy one that’s already been tuned (and by a known tuner) unless you have deep very pockets. You can’t really do anything to standard cars without an uprated ECU such as an APEXi, which alone can cost up to 1k new.
There is always lot of scaremongering when it comes to RX7’s but these often come from non-owners, ultimately it’s probably the best sports car money can buy for 5k. It’s a buyers’ market at moment so there’s no better time.
Thanks for this. Very useful stuff. I've budgeted a fair amount on top of the purchase price of the car to get the engine fully rebuilt to the quoted hp. This may not be necessary but it will give me the piece of mind you need with a rotary I guess. I never had any troubles with my RX8 but I heard those rotary tips were of a slightly different design/material to the RX7 rotor tips.Be aware that specs differ massively but they'll all left the factory as twin turbos and there aren't any 'slow' models, the Type R, RS and RZ are the higher spec models and can be identified by the twin oil coolers, with the RS and RZ having bigger brakes and uprated shocks, the RZ also has Recaro seats and BBS wheels. If budget allows post 99 spec cars are the ones to go for and do look a bit more modern, the higher spec models also have the uprated 280+bhp engines. If you’re feeling plush the Spirit R is stunning!!
Bodywork is generally okay, they tend to resist rust quite well, but check the usual places, and any rust is generally a sign of accident damage.
Service History from a RX7 or rotary specialist is essential, simple things such as using the wrong oil (synthetic is a no no) can cause issues and most garages won’t know this.
They’re all too old to worry about HPI.
Always go for low mileage or recent rebuild and always get a compression test done, even if it has a claimed rebuild, any specialist will do these and you’ll be looking for readings above 7 which indicates a very healthy engine, anything in the 6’s is okay and below that you’re entering rebuild territory. I see so many cars for sale which say the cars had a rebuild but they’ve lost the paperwork; in my opinion they’re worth no more than cars without!
The champaign test is another worthwhile test, there’s a guide over at MRC but you basically cold start the car with the coolant cap off and look out for bubbles, as these indicate compression issues which will mean the car needs a rebuild.
Another essential when looking is to warm start a car, any issue with this will likely indicate that compression is low and a rebuild isn’t too far away.
If you’re looking for 450-500bhp the only option is single turbo or uprated twins at a push, the standard turbos will struggle to get past 400bhp. If you’re looking for this kind of power I’d defiantly buy one that’s already been tuned (and by a known tuner) unless you have deep very pockets. You can’t really do anything to standard cars without an uprated ECU such as an APEXi, which alone can cost up to 1k new.
There is always lot of scaremongering when it comes to RX7’s but these often come from non-owners, ultimately it’s probably the best sports car money can buy for 5k. It’s a buyers’ market at moment so there’s no better time.
Edited by philwhite on Friday 23 September 09:44
Sounds like the checks for the RX7 are similar to those needed for the RX8, which makes sense really as they're both rotary powered. Good to get that confirmed though! Will try and go post 99 due to the slightly higher spec/more modern look but I don't mind upgrading things like brakes/tyres/suspension so I suppose it's a matter of seeing what's out there.
I guess it would make sense to get one that's already been fettled with (to a good standard) and then tweak to my preference.
bazza1000 said:
RX7's are such great cars, even after all these years they still look fresh and modern.
Good luck with your search - hold out for a good example and am sure you'll love it.
I agree. Bang for your buck is pretty impressive now the car market has dropped off a cliff!!Good luck with your search - hold out for a good example and am sure you'll love it.
Is the RX7 the best looking Jap car ever made? I'd say so. May be one for another thread though!!
Ginger goblin said:
Will try and go post 99 due to the slightly higher spec/more modern look
The higher spec engine/turbos are on the post-99 R/RS/Spirit models. The RB/RB-S have the standard engine/turbo although many sellers will suggest otherwise. All 99+ cars have cooling system improvements over the pre-99.I managed to find a post-99 RS a few years ago, only seen a handful of the R/RS/Spirit for sale since.
Have a read of the Brian Long RX7 book whilst you are waiting.
Hi, I've sent a pm.
Ginger goblin said:
Am considering the options for my next car and the RX7 is in the melting pot. I've had an RX8 before so know all about rotary thirst/reliability etc. I thought the RX8 was a fantastic little car but massively underpowered so rather than spend money making an RX8 quicker I thought it natural to consider an RX7.
What are the different RX7 variants? I know that the latest was the FD3 (may be wrong on this). Were there any others? Which one is considered the one to go for? Are there any known issues (not so fussed about engine as I'll have this overhauled)e.g. corrosion etc. Also, from skimming the classifieds I see there are a lot of imports. Would insurance companies take a dim view on these?
I would probably want a bit more power than standard. Anyone know how easy/expensive it is to extract say 450-500bhp relaiably from the engine? I've heard good things about Re-Worx in Portsmouth so I'd most likely get them to carry out the work.
Finally, any RX7 forums out there?
Ta
What are the different RX7 variants? I know that the latest was the FD3 (may be wrong on this). Were there any others? Which one is considered the one to go for? Are there any known issues (not so fussed about engine as I'll have this overhauled)e.g. corrosion etc. Also, from skimming the classifieds I see there are a lot of imports. Would insurance companies take a dim view on these?
I would probably want a bit more power than standard. Anyone know how easy/expensive it is to extract say 450-500bhp relaiably from the engine? I've heard good things about Re-Worx in Portsmouth so I'd most likely get them to carry out the work.
Finally, any RX7 forums out there?
Ta
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