Scooby reliability
Discussion
A few of my mates have Scoobies now, and I must admit they seem good fun. The STi seems the best ( the other 2 are UK cars), but looking at various for sale adds there seem to be loads with rebuilt engines.
My question is are they notoriously unreliable, and I have never noticed?
Also, is there a guide to how much exactly all the various models weigh?
My question is are they notoriously unreliable, and I have never noticed?
Also, is there a guide to how much exactly all the various models weigh?
Cars made around '98-'99 suffer from piston slap (a lot).
There is the clutch judder issue.
Bigend failures not always related to fuel (its usually no.3 that fails) Lots of people run a knock link to warn of det.
Gearboxes not the strongest even when not abused.
My advice would be to spend a bit more and get an Evo V onwards.
There is the clutch judder issue.
Bigend failures not always related to fuel (its usually no.3 that fails) Lots of people run a knock link to warn of det.
Gearboxes not the strongest even when not abused.
My advice would be to spend a bit more and get an Evo V onwards.
Turbo T said:
I thought Evo's suffered box problems too?
Maybe. My overall impression is the Evo is the stronger car mechanically. If you want to use the performance without hearing (real or imagined) funny noises I'd avoid an Impreza.
Do a search on [url]www.scoobynet.com[/url] for bigend failure (there are hundreds). My car had a very easy life for an Impreza and the engine still went pop at 60k.
The exhaust up-pipe also split (which I think is fairly common) and its a bit of a git to replace.
v8owner said:
[quote=trickywoo]There is the clutch judder issue.[quote]
my wifes has started doing this? whats the issue!
my wifes has started doing this? whats the issue!
'They all do that sir'
Its not a reliability issue (its not going to break or break anything else). Its just annoying and even fitting a new clutch flywheel etc. may not fix it.
In the "good old days" I'd have recomended Scoobynet. I find it a little too commercialised now 
Have a look at bbs.22b.com - it's a little calmer.
I've driven a well specc'd Evo 5, and while it was supremely competent, I couldn't live with it day-to-day as it was far too uncomfortable and was hard work to drive in traffic.
As for Impreza clutch judder - a possible cures for this: Full bore start from the lights to re-face the flywheel. If you don't fancy this "kill or cure" approach, then find a straight bit of road and slip the clutch a bit while reving the car at approx 3k for a few seconds. Believe it or not, it does improve matters although it does cause premature clutch & gearbox wear, so don't blame me if you try it!
I clocked up 100k on my UK Impreza and 55k on my JDM spec STi. Neither had any serious engine problems. Just the usual up-pipe, coil packs, split intercooler pipes... I drive them like I stole them too, so the engine thing appears to be luck of the draw
Have a look at bbs.22b.com - it's a little calmer. I've driven a well specc'd Evo 5, and while it was supremely competent, I couldn't live with it day-to-day as it was far too uncomfortable and was hard work to drive in traffic.
As for Impreza clutch judder - a possible cures for this: Full bore start from the lights to re-face the flywheel. If you don't fancy this "kill or cure" approach, then find a straight bit of road and slip the clutch a bit while reving the car at approx 3k for a few seconds. Believe it or not, it does improve matters although it does cause premature clutch & gearbox wear, so don't blame me if you try it!
I clocked up 100k on my UK Impreza and 55k on my JDM spec STi. Neither had any serious engine problems. Just the usual up-pipe, coil packs, split intercooler pipes... I drive them like I stole them too, so the engine thing appears to be luck of the draw
Edited by dnb on Wednesday 10th January 16:40
I'd say that Imprezas are extremely reliable and any reputation for the opposite tends to come about as a result of stock items such as gearboxes being subjected to increases in power and torque, for which they weren't designed.
Until recently, I had a MY02 WRX with an Ecutek remap, exhaust, suspension, wheels and various other items all modified. It completed 99,750 miles in under four years and only needed an exchange gearbox at 96,000 miles - not bad for a car that was putting out around 290bhp.
It obviously depends on how well the vehicle is maintained. Mine was on the original clutch when it was changed alongside the gearbox and had the oil changed every 5k miles so a decent history counts for a lot.
Until recently, I had a MY02 WRX with an Ecutek remap, exhaust, suspension, wheels and various other items all modified. It completed 99,750 miles in under four years and only needed an exchange gearbox at 96,000 miles - not bad for a car that was putting out around 290bhp.
It obviously depends on how well the vehicle is maintained. Mine was on the original clutch when it was changed alongside the gearbox and had the oil changed every 5k miles so a decent history counts for a lot.
Subaru motors seem to be quite sensitive to running in, so that may explain some of the apparently random problems with some cars. Problems much more likely in cars owned by the chav/fast&furious type people they also appeal to these days who consider turning the boost up more important than changing the oil. Its not just Scoobs vulnerable to that though, spent a few days after christmas helping a mate rebuild an RB20DET for his Skyline because the previous owner didn't like putting oil in it.
Weight varies from just under 1200kg(STi2 RA) to almsot 1500kg for the current model. My pick would be an RA V-ltd, lightweight 4-door with 280bhp, close-ratio Gbox (which is significantly stronger than the regular one iirc) but the V-ltd has a longer 5th gear than the regular type-RA for better cruising. The type-R (2-door) and RA models also have DCCD (driver controlled centre diff) which means a 64r/36f static torque split when diff set to open (so less understeer & more fun), and infinitely variable via a dial beside the handbrake to complete centre difflock for snow/gravel etc. Personally having driven them, I wouldn't buy one without DCCD, the more rearward torque bias just transforms the car.
ETA: for checking/comparing spec of different JDM versions, I find www.english.auto.vl.ru a pretty useful website (for any JDM cars not just Subaru)
Weight varies from just under 1200kg(STi2 RA) to almsot 1500kg for the current model. My pick would be an RA V-ltd, lightweight 4-door with 280bhp, close-ratio Gbox (which is significantly stronger than the regular one iirc) but the V-ltd has a longer 5th gear than the regular type-RA for better cruising. The type-R (2-door) and RA models also have DCCD (driver controlled centre diff) which means a 64r/36f static torque split when diff set to open (so less understeer & more fun), and infinitely variable via a dial beside the handbrake to complete centre difflock for snow/gravel etc. Personally having driven them, I wouldn't buy one without DCCD, the more rearward torque bias just transforms the car.
ETA: for checking/comparing spec of different JDM versions, I find www.english.auto.vl.ru a pretty useful website (for any JDM cars not just Subaru)
Edited by GravelBen on Thursday 11th January 00:32
Apart from from the issues allready mentioned, they are very reliable cars.
I am on my second classic, which is approaching 100K miles. They have both had regular oil changed etc ( & good qulaity oil ). However, they have both been driven hard & used as workhorses, and ( touch wood, not wishing to tempt fate ) given very good reliablity. ( seem to have a heavy thirst for tyres & brakes though..... )
I am on my second classic, which is approaching 100K miles. They have both had regular oil changed etc ( & good qulaity oil ). However, they have both been driven hard & used as workhorses, and ( touch wood, not wishing to tempt fate ) given very good reliablity. ( seem to have a heavy thirst for tyres & brakes though..... )
Interesting to see prices not that different between UK and NZ for STi's - I almost bought an STi v2 RA V-ltd for $15k NZ (just over 5k pounds) about this time last year, so that price sounds pretty similiar to what a v5 will be here.
In the end practicality won out and I bought a 2.0 NA Legacy wagon instead, mostly due to fuel/insurance costs and still being a student. One day though...
In the end practicality won out and I bought a 2.0 NA Legacy wagon instead, mostly due to fuel/insurance costs and still being a student. One day though...
dnb said:
I like your choice GravelBen. Totally agree with you 
There's a STi v5 Type RA LTD on an X plate (same model as mine). It's done quite a few miles and could do with a bit of a tidy up (nothing major - a damn good clean should do the trick). Asking price is around £7k IIRC.
There's a STi v5 Type RA LTD on an X plate (same model as mine). It's done quite a few miles and could do with a bit of a tidy up (nothing major - a damn good clean should do the trick). Asking price is around £7k IIRC.
Do you have a link please?
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