Discussion
I am looking into moving from classic British cars into Jap and an trying to understand the Mazda RX7.
The wife want a 4 seat "Sunday Toy" to replace my MG BGT which i use for auto solos with the Farnborough District Motor Club.
The RX7 fit's that need but if I look in the PH Classifieds the prices vary hugely ... Can anyone give me basic advice for a newcomer to the RX7???
Andrtew
The wife want a 4 seat "Sunday Toy" to replace my MG BGT which i use for auto solos with the Farnborough District Motor Club.
The RX7 fit's that need but if I look in the PH Classifieds the prices vary hugely ... Can anyone give me basic advice for a newcomer to the RX7???
Andrtew
The Rx7 doesn't always have 4 seats unfortunately, and the back seats are tiny, only slightly bigger than the BGT. There are 3 models to chose from really, the FB (1979-1985) the FC (1986-1992) and the FD (1992 onwards) (these dates are a rough guide), the FB is getting rare, the FC is a bit bigger and faster than the FB, the the FD is very, very fast. Fuel consumption can be astonishing, and the rotary engine can be fragile, although many have been rebuilt.
I have an FB, with a V8, the car is for sale if you were interested, it is in the Pistonheads classifieds.
Good luck with your search.
I have an FB, with a V8, the car is for sale if you were interested, it is in the Pistonheads classifieds.
Good luck with your search.
And as hinted to above, one of the reasons for price variation is how close the engine is to needing / having had a rebuild. A recently rebuilt engined car will command a higher price than one with 60k and no rebuild as potential buyers will figure the cost of the rebuild into their valuation.
FB - 1st Gen (12A n/a 2 rotor)
FC - 2nd Gen (13bt n/a and turbo 2 rotor)
FD - 3rd Gen (13b rew twin turbo 2 rotor)
Dates as above.
If you're going for classic status then the FB (12a N/A 2 rotor engine) is the 'classic' RX7.
I've got a '92 FD that's gone from standard (~210rwhp) to somewhere between 350 and 400rwhp and is properly fast.
Even a recently rebuilt FD isn't going to be stupid money - they're annoyingly cheap. I've spent something like £20k on mine over 4 years (including buying but not running) and I'd be very lucky to get £8k for it. It's just had a £5k rebuild!!!
Key thing is to work out what you're going for and research it properly. Your best source of info on all things rotating would be www.mazdarotaryclub.com we're a friendly crowd (and even let v1xpy post there).
FC - 2nd Gen (13bt n/a and turbo 2 rotor)
FD - 3rd Gen (13b rew twin turbo 2 rotor)
Dates as above.
If you're going for classic status then the FB (12a N/A 2 rotor engine) is the 'classic' RX7.
I've got a '92 FD that's gone from standard (~210rwhp) to somewhere between 350 and 400rwhp and is properly fast.
Even a recently rebuilt FD isn't going to be stupid money - they're annoyingly cheap. I've spent something like £20k on mine over 4 years (including buying but not running) and I'd be very lucky to get £8k for it. It's just had a £5k rebuild!!!
Key thing is to work out what you're going for and research it properly. Your best source of info on all things rotating would be www.mazdarotaryclub.com we're a friendly crowd (and even let v1xpy post there).
Thanks all for the comments.... I'll have a look at the club site you suggest Ian and get some more info from there.
In essence I'm looking for a 4 seater as 2 kids are still in child seats that acceptable to the family bu tfun for me to do Auto Solos in.
It looks like there are spec/ models like RS RB is that correct ??
Thanks All.
In essence I'm looking for a 4 seater as 2 kids are still in child seats that acceptable to the family bu tfun for me to do Auto Solos in.
It looks like there are spec/ models like RS RB is that correct ??
Thanks All.
Edited by Grizzly_Law on Monday 9th July 17:51
Mave said:
Absolutely loads of spec models. Take a look at the site, there is a sticky listing the differences. If you want back seats however, there aren't that many variants; Type X, and maybe UK spec (can't remember!)
Happy hunting
It's the rear bins that are rare and no end of us folks with seat waiting to pay to swap Happy hunting
IainT said:
Mave said:
Absolutely loads of spec models. Take a look at the site, there is a sticky listing the differences. If you want back seats however, there aren't that many variants; Type X, and maybe UK spec (can't remember!)
Happy hunting
It's the rear bins that are rare and no end of us folks with seat waiting to pay to swap Happy hunting
RX7's are amazingly well balanced cars. They have a near perfect 50/50 weight distribution which makes them handle very well indeed. They are setup for an ever so small amount of oversteer as standard. Chassis wise i think they are the best (out of the box) jap car you can buy for the money.
The engine is not so much an issue and they are not especily fragile. It's just that the rotary tips in the engine are a consumable item. It's part of the 70,000 mile service that any mazda dealer should do. It's just kinda the way it is. The later models had stronger tips installed to get around this problem somewhat and many aftermarket companies provide uprated versions.
The engine can push out an amazing amout of power and is silky smooth in it's delivery. All in all, it's one of the nicest japanese cars to drive.
Other downsides are the plasticy interiour which is shockingly fragine and has a habit of shattering at a moments notice. And it returns worse fuel consumption than my 3.0ltr petrol shogun. (which is really saying something)
Not really an everyday car unless you have money to burn (if you ask me)
The engine is not so much an issue and they are not especily fragile. It's just that the rotary tips in the engine are a consumable item. It's part of the 70,000 mile service that any mazda dealer should do. It's just kinda the way it is. The later models had stronger tips installed to get around this problem somewhat and many aftermarket companies provide uprated versions.
The engine can push out an amazing amout of power and is silky smooth in it's delivery. All in all, it's one of the nicest japanese cars to drive.
Other downsides are the plasticy interiour which is shockingly fragine and has a habit of shattering at a moments notice. And it returns worse fuel consumption than my 3.0ltr petrol shogun. (which is really saying something)
Not really an everyday car unless you have money to burn (if you ask me)
I would recommend 1994 or later due to improved interior plastics quality and nicer upholstery material. They are all good though and one of the prettiest coupes ever made. I bought a 1995 import from Newera with about 60K on the clock and got to 85K without a cough or splutter. Needed a new clutch hose at one point £80 fitted. Engine still strong but I did the most stupid thing ever and cooked it/boiled it/killed it on Saturday 14th July on M25.
It is now in the queue at a specialist and until they strip the engine I don't know what the damage is. Worst case new rotor housings. Plus a total rebuild obviously. I'm confident that 100,000 miles would have been fine.
I would have had to have a rebuild then whatever as you shouldn't really wait until a rotor tip fails or compression gives noticeable power loss as this might mean you have worn the housings out beyond salvage and maybe even put a few chips of rotor tip through the turbos mucking them up to boot.
It is now in the queue at a specialist and until they strip the engine I don't know what the damage is. Worst case new rotor housings. Plus a total rebuild obviously. I'm confident that 100,000 miles would have been fine.
I would have had to have a rebuild then whatever as you shouldn't really wait until a rotor tip fails or compression gives noticeable power loss as this might mean you have worn the housings out beyond salvage and maybe even put a few chips of rotor tip through the turbos mucking them up to boot.
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