Accord Type-R - Things to look for?
Discussion
Hi guys,
I'm currently selling my RB25 powered Sileighty in order to clear off a credit card etc and get myself financially sound again, obviously it's a pretty 'niche' car and will only appeal to a select few and even fewer of those will have the £5k I'm after for it.
I have been offered a part ex plus some cash my way for a very clean looking Accord Type R, fsh, 115k miles, totally standard, long MOT and tax.
Normally I don't entertain part exchange offers, but in this case it may make sense as I would have thought it would be an easier car to sell on? The current owner has previously owned a 200SX and is wanting another, and has taken a very keen interest in my car.
I'm not going to rush into anything until I've had a look over it, so I was hoping some of you guys might know of specific things to be wary of with these cars? Any specific checks I should do and things to pay particular attention to when looking over it/taking it for a test drive.
I've heard they're pretty much bomb proof if well serviced, but I'm not silly and know EVERY car has a weakness or two.
Any help appreciated
Many thanks
Del
I'm currently selling my RB25 powered Sileighty in order to clear off a credit card etc and get myself financially sound again, obviously it's a pretty 'niche' car and will only appeal to a select few and even fewer of those will have the £5k I'm after for it.
I have been offered a part ex plus some cash my way for a very clean looking Accord Type R, fsh, 115k miles, totally standard, long MOT and tax.
Normally I don't entertain part exchange offers, but in this case it may make sense as I would have thought it would be an easier car to sell on? The current owner has previously owned a 200SX and is wanting another, and has taken a very keen interest in my car.
I'm not going to rush into anything until I've had a look over it, so I was hoping some of you guys might know of specific things to be wary of with these cars? Any specific checks I should do and things to pay particular attention to when looking over it/taking it for a test drive.
I've heard they're pretty much bomb proof if well serviced, but I'm not silly and know EVERY car has a weakness or two.
Any help appreciated

Many thanks
Del
Cheers Batty, I think it's the pre facelift and also had a new box recently, I was concerned about that but if the synchro is a common problem on those that could explain it 
That's about the price I was expecting for it based on looking around the classifieds and Auto Trader, thanks
Wadeski, yep that's the one
I picked her up from Bath. Really wanted to keep it forever and just keep it mint, add a few go faster goodies etc but I've been kidding myself regarding my finances so I need to take a break for a while 
I insured her with Keith Michaels, surprisingly not too bad on the insurance (£695 fully comp, everything declared and with an agreed value of £6k), but then I am over 25 with full no claims and a 6 year history of driving performance rear wheel drive cars

That's about the price I was expecting for it based on looking around the classifieds and Auto Trader, thanks

Wadeski, yep that's the one
I picked her up from Bath. Really wanted to keep it forever and just keep it mint, add a few go faster goodies etc but I've been kidding myself regarding my finances so I need to take a break for a while 
I insured her with Keith Michaels, surprisingly not too bad on the insurance (£695 fully comp, everything declared and with an agreed value of £6k), but then I am over 25 with full no claims and a 6 year history of driving performance rear wheel drive cars

Taken from www.accordr.org
Problems - -
The timing belt tensioner can fail. Usually identified by a diesel like rattle between 2 and 3 thousand RPM. Once it start's to fail, replace it as soon as possible. The cambelt can be replaced on the Honda Happiness scheme for £200, the balancer belt is an extra £20 and the tensioner itself is £79, so all in budget around £300 parts and labour from Honda to have the problem rectified. This problem is present in both pre and facelift models.
Synchromesh problems in fifth and reverse gear- gets progressivly worse over time until fifth/reverse impossible to select or gets stuck in gear. This problem appears unique to pre facelift models only (1998- 2000) as facelift owners have not reported a failure as yet. Budget around £800 if Honda are to supply and fit the parts for you.....
EGR valve can get "sooted" up with carbon- this causes poor running and can illuminate the engine management warning light on the dash. It's an easy 30 minute DIY repair which costs a few pounds for cleaning product.
Automatic headlight levellers can fail, usually identified at MOT time!!
Anti roll bar drop links can snap, causing a knocking or rubbing noise from the car. These can be bought quite cheaply and are not that difficult to replace yourself. (£20 for the part).
It go's without saying: there should be no need to buy an ATR without a full service history! According to Honda, no VTEC engine which has been properly maintained inline with the service schedule, has ever let go! If buying from a Honda dealer, they can search on their computer database and recall all work carried out by Honda UK on a specific car- this happened to mine as the service booklet was lost.
Most cars are classed in insurance group 17, but earlier cars can be 18. Get a quote first, then buy!
Problems - -
The timing belt tensioner can fail. Usually identified by a diesel like rattle between 2 and 3 thousand RPM. Once it start's to fail, replace it as soon as possible. The cambelt can be replaced on the Honda Happiness scheme for £200, the balancer belt is an extra £20 and the tensioner itself is £79, so all in budget around £300 parts and labour from Honda to have the problem rectified. This problem is present in both pre and facelift models.
Synchromesh problems in fifth and reverse gear- gets progressivly worse over time until fifth/reverse impossible to select or gets stuck in gear. This problem appears unique to pre facelift models only (1998- 2000) as facelift owners have not reported a failure as yet. Budget around £800 if Honda are to supply and fit the parts for you.....
EGR valve can get "sooted" up with carbon- this causes poor running and can illuminate the engine management warning light on the dash. It's an easy 30 minute DIY repair which costs a few pounds for cleaning product.
Automatic headlight levellers can fail, usually identified at MOT time!!
Anti roll bar drop links can snap, causing a knocking or rubbing noise from the car. These can be bought quite cheaply and are not that difficult to replace yourself. (£20 for the part).
It go's without saying: there should be no need to buy an ATR without a full service history! According to Honda, no VTEC engine which has been properly maintained inline with the service schedule, has ever let go! If buying from a Honda dealer, they can search on their computer database and recall all work carried out by Honda UK on a specific car- this happened to mine as the service booklet was lost.
Most cars are classed in insurance group 17, but earlier cars can be 18. Get a quote first, then buy!
_Batty_ said:
WildCards said:
no VTEC engine...
not true.theres never been a recorded failure of the V-tec mechanism in the engines

sorry to be pedantic

Edited by WildCards on Friday 9th November 12:23
That's fantastic info Wildcard, really appreciated!
Sounds like even that tensioner problem isn't majorly expensive to sort out then, and everything else is either relatively easy to do myself or already sorted out on this one (the box).
Feel a lot more confident about having a look over it now I'm armed with that lot, cheers
Sounds like even that tensioner problem isn't majorly expensive to sort out then, and everything else is either relatively easy to do myself or already sorted out on this one (the box).
Feel a lot more confident about having a look over it now I'm armed with that lot, cheers

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