Annoying Scooby
Discussion
I am having an annoying problem.
Ive got a 1995 Subaru impreza wagon and after driving exactly the same distance it keeps cutting out as though the ignition key has been turned off.
Sometimes it bursts back into life, but other times it just dies completly.and is a pig to restart
Ive checked all connections, pipes etc and the seem ok, and battery is giving out roughly 13.66volts on idle.
Ive reset the ECU by connecting the greens n blacks and doing the throttle thing, and its coming up with no faults at all.
im running NGK BKR6eTP plugs the quad core thingys, ive cleaned these also.
Is there anyone that can suggest anthing else i could try or have a possible solution, coz im baffled. THANKS
Ive got a 1995 Subaru impreza wagon and after driving exactly the same distance it keeps cutting out as though the ignition key has been turned off.
Sometimes it bursts back into life, but other times it just dies completly.and is a pig to restart
Ive checked all connections, pipes etc and the seem ok, and battery is giving out roughly 13.66volts on idle.
Ive reset the ECU by connecting the greens n blacks and doing the throttle thing, and its coming up with no faults at all.
im running NGK BKR6eTP plugs the quad core thingys, ive cleaned these also.
Is there anyone that can suggest anthing else i could try or have a possible solution, coz im baffled. THANKS
What's the distance before it dies?
Have you checked the Fuel Pump and relay, the injectors and the fuel rail?
Does it have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser? It could well be this kicking in.
It sounds like the pump may be priming then switching off meaning once the car has emptied the fuel rail it turns off.
Have you checked the Fuel Pump and relay, the injectors and the fuel rail?
Does it have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser? It could well be this kicking in.
It sounds like the pump may be priming then switching off meaning once the car has emptied the fuel rail it turns off.
Took fuel pump out and connected to a battery for a while and it seemed ok...tried wihout the turbo timer connected and it didnt make any difference...
Fanx for tha suggestion tho..
Think im gonna see if someone will lend me a fuel pump to try that to see if it is that!! It seems to be getting worse now.....I cant even go 2 miles now before its cutting out...so im pretty sure that it IS a fuel pump problem..
Im still open to suggestions tho
THANK YOU
Fanx for tha suggestion tho..
Think im gonna see if someone will lend me a fuel pump to try that to see if it is that!! It seems to be getting worse now.....I cant even go 2 miles now before its cutting out...so im pretty sure that it IS a fuel pump problem..
Im still open to suggestions tho
THANK YOU 
i does run ok till it cuts out....A few days before it started cutting ut the boost kept dropping to 0.3-0.5bar when usually its just under one.....then it went back to normal
is there anyway to test the MAF sensor and Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Tiz more annoying coz i used to work at a Japanese car auction and couldve tried different things all day long by "borrowing" bits from other cars lol
is there anyway to test the MAF sensor and Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Tiz more annoying coz i used to work at a Japanese car auction and couldve tried different things all day long by "borrowing" bits from other cars lol
elloooo fanx for advice
Ive just put in a walboro pump on... seemed better was running lovely till i mixed 95 ron unleaded and 99 Ron super unleaded without thinking !!!! just gotta put in my new plugs i just got...took mine out and they look like they have been on the car since it was made !!
Got some NGK iridium ix plugs that im gonna put in 2morrow and reset the ECU Just hope this solves it!!
Ive just put in a walboro pump on... seemed better was running lovely till i mixed 95 ron unleaded and 99 Ron super unleaded without thinking !!!! just gotta put in my new plugs i just got...took mine out and they look like they have been on the car since it was made !!
Got some NGK iridium ix plugs that im gonna put in 2morrow and reset the ECU Just hope this solves it!!
As standard Scooby's run 2.5bar at idle and 3bar upon demand. You can buy a reasonable quality adjustable fuel pressure regulator with std analog gauge for less than £45 or you can just buy a decent liquid filled gauge for about £25 and just plumb that in permanently if you wish.
Personally i would get an adjustable FPR so you have the option of increasing fuel pressure to make sure your injectors aren't quite running 100% duty and your engine doesn't run any leaner than your mapping requires when pressing on and loading up. Now you have a Walbro/Sytec fuel pump you should throw away the std FPR and fit an adjustable FPR.
Just make sure when you buy your AFPR it comes with the correct adapter plate that replaces the std FPR. Don't buy a universal AFPR or you will end up having to go out and buy an adapter plate from the likes of Roger Clark Motorsport, and they aren't cheap for what they are. The bottom of the adapter where it slots into the head looks exactly like the bottom of the std FPR, O ring and all.
Don't set too much pressure at first otherwise your injectors may start leaking and it won't run at all. Start with OEM pressure of 2.5bar at idle with engine at normal operating temp, and if that doesn't help go up by half a bar on idle but no more than that.
Get a new fuel filter as well if you haven't already done that. May as well make sure it's all new and working from day one as it just makes the process of fault finding/elimination a lot easier, and chuck in a botle of injector cleaner to your fuel tank just to make sure your injector jets are as clear as poss and free of any gum and crap.
If that doesn't help then you are potentially looking at electrical probs and for that it really would be a good idea to have a fault code reader hooked up so that when the point of breakdown occurs you have a chance of recording error codes and diagnosing the problem straight away.
Hope this helps
Personally i would get an adjustable FPR so you have the option of increasing fuel pressure to make sure your injectors aren't quite running 100% duty and your engine doesn't run any leaner than your mapping requires when pressing on and loading up. Now you have a Walbro/Sytec fuel pump you should throw away the std FPR and fit an adjustable FPR.
Just make sure when you buy your AFPR it comes with the correct adapter plate that replaces the std FPR. Don't buy a universal AFPR or you will end up having to go out and buy an adapter plate from the likes of Roger Clark Motorsport, and they aren't cheap for what they are. The bottom of the adapter where it slots into the head looks exactly like the bottom of the std FPR, O ring and all.
Don't set too much pressure at first otherwise your injectors may start leaking and it won't run at all. Start with OEM pressure of 2.5bar at idle with engine at normal operating temp, and if that doesn't help go up by half a bar on idle but no more than that.
Get a new fuel filter as well if you haven't already done that. May as well make sure it's all new and working from day one as it just makes the process of fault finding/elimination a lot easier, and chuck in a botle of injector cleaner to your fuel tank just to make sure your injector jets are as clear as poss and free of any gum and crap.
If that doesn't help then you are potentially looking at electrical probs and for that it really would be a good idea to have a fault code reader hooked up so that when the point of breakdown occurs you have a chance of recording error codes and diagnosing the problem straight away.
Hope this helps
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