Mk1/2 MR2 daily driver and track toy?
Discussion
Hi,
I'm thinking about getting a versatile fun car. Something I can use for just about anything - track days, autotests, long-distance hoons (I'm thinking of the Scumball...) and possibly also as a daily driver.
It doesn't have to be the fastest thing on four wheels, but it does have to be fun and durable. Budget is around £1,000.
Do you think a mk1 or 2 MR2 would fit the bill? Really not too worried about performance as long as it holds together. If the engine drops out half way to the Nurburgring that wouldn't be good!
Any thoughts?
Chris.
I'm thinking about getting a versatile fun car. Something I can use for just about anything - track days, autotests, long-distance hoons (I'm thinking of the Scumball...) and possibly also as a daily driver.
It doesn't have to be the fastest thing on four wheels, but it does have to be fun and durable. Budget is around £1,000.
Do you think a mk1 or 2 MR2 would fit the bill? Really not too worried about performance as long as it holds together. If the engine drops out half way to the Nurburgring that wouldn't be good!
Any thoughts?
Chris.
mk1's are fairly small and good ones (that don't have tin worm) are hard to find. A better "drive" than the mk2. But to me they were always too small and underpowered (a supercharged or an engine swapped one will be costly. There are companies that specialise in putting the mk2 engine in the mk1 - called a mk1.5).
a mk2 has a large boot (I've actually been locked in one, and I'm 6'4") and a lot of room inside and under the front bonnet.
A rev1 Mk2 can be had for a grand now days (NA - 3s-ge). They were about 160bhp out the factory and if you get a T-bar, would be nice to drive for long distances in the summer.
Some early models are suffering rust issues now, but it's usually not terminal. Red ones usually suffer paint fade.
Avoid 3s-FE engined cars and Turbo's (3s-GTE) can suck your wallet dry.
I've currently got about 5/6 mates with various mk2s and with a bit of TLC they seem to be okay. I've owned 2 (an NA, followed by a Turbo) over 6 years. A mate of mine is selling his atm, and I'd love it for a daily driver (30ish mpg) and fun. But I've done the MR2 thing now.
a mk2 has a large boot (I've actually been locked in one, and I'm 6'4") and a lot of room inside and under the front bonnet.
A rev1 Mk2 can be had for a grand now days (NA - 3s-ge). They were about 160bhp out the factory and if you get a T-bar, would be nice to drive for long distances in the summer.
Some early models are suffering rust issues now, but it's usually not terminal. Red ones usually suffer paint fade.
Avoid 3s-FE engined cars and Turbo's (3s-GTE) can suck your wallet dry.
I've currently got about 5/6 mates with various mk2s and with a bit of TLC they seem to be okay. I've owned 2 (an NA, followed by a Turbo) over 6 years. A mate of mine is selling his atm, and I'd love it for a daily driver (30ish mpg) and fun. But I've done the MR2 thing now.
Edited by Bibbs on Tuesday 10th June 10:58
I just got a 1995 UK with 70,000miles for £1780 from ebay, in the 2 months i've had it its taken me to work every day (30mile round trip) and done 2 full trackdays without missing a beat.
A friend also just picked up a 1994 G-LTD (import n/a) car for £1100 and all it needed were new discs and pads £150 and is now perfect, he's happily doing BIG motorway miles in, i.e. Thames Valley to Newcastle etc
I echo avoid any turbo for that price, it'll probably cost double to sort it out and mk1's will be rust buckets at that price, solid ones fetch good money these days.
A friend also just picked up a 1994 G-LTD (import n/a) car for £1100 and all it needed were new discs and pads £150 and is now perfect, he's happily doing BIG motorway miles in, i.e. Thames Valley to Newcastle etc
I echo avoid any turbo for that price, it'll probably cost double to sort it out and mk1's will be rust buckets at that price, solid ones fetch good money these days.
Edited by Herman Toothrot on Tuesday 10th June 12:43
One of my housemates used to have an imported mk2 he got for about £900. That really changed my perception of the car - you kind of get the impression that only the mk1 is worth bothering with, but I reckoned his Mk2 was better than the MX5 I had at the time.
The question is how tough are they? If I could find a rot-free mk1, would the major components hold together for another 10,000 miles or so of trackdays and long distance hoons?
The other thing is track preparation... If you want a safe and durable track car - not something to set any lap records, but just good fun and reliable - would you need any mods from standard? New brake pads and hoses maybe?
The question is how tough are they? If I could find a rot-free mk1, would the major components hold together for another 10,000 miles or so of trackdays and long distance hoons?
The other thing is track preparation... If you want a safe and durable track car - not something to set any lap records, but just good fun and reliable - would you need any mods from standard? New brake pads and hoses maybe?
Chris71 said:
The question is how tough are they? If I could find a rot-free mk1, would the major components hold together for another 10,000 miles or so of trackdays and long distance hoons?
The 4AGE motor is pretty bulletproof and loves to rev, gearboxes have a nice shift and don't break too easily AFAIK. Performance wise a mates tired (220k hard Km) Mk1 MR2 proved to be pretty much dead even with my (205k Km) Mk1 MX5, either of them are good options IMO. Mechanically pretty simple so easy enough to fix if they break, MR2 being mid engined the motor is a bit harder to get at though.Hey Chris. The MR2's are pretty good little cars, both the Mk1 and 2 mechanically. The body is very prone to rot on the Mk1 and as mentioned above the early Mk2's can rust too, but not quite as badly. The engines in both are pretty bulletproof if looked after well. I haven't really known of any really major problems with either in my time and I have been a Toyota techie for nearly 12 years now.
For track use, I would go with the Mk1 if you can get a half decent one. Was looking at getting one myself for the same thing, but can't really afford it at the moment. It is the lighter of the 2 and although not as powerful, the handling is a little better balanced in my opinion.
For track use, I would go with the Mk1 if you can get a half decent one. Was looking at getting one myself for the same thing, but can't really afford it at the moment. It is the lighter of the 2 and although not as powerful, the handling is a little better balanced in my opinion.
Graeme_Gman said:
Hey Chris. The MR2's are pretty good little cars, both the Mk1 and 2 mechanically. The body is very prone to rot on the Mk1 and as mentioned above the early Mk2's can rust too, but not quite as badly. The engines in both are pretty bulletproof if looked after well. I haven't really known of any really major problems with either in my time and I have been a Toyota techie for nearly 12 years now.
For track use, I would go with the Mk1 if you can get a half decent one. Was looking at getting one myself for the same thing, but can't really afford it at the moment. It is the lighter of the 2 and although not as powerful, the handling is a little better balanced in my opinion.
I forgot I knew a Toyota guru. For track use, I would go with the Mk1 if you can get a half decent one. Was looking at getting one myself for the same thing, but can't really afford it at the moment. It is the lighter of the 2 and although not as powerful, the handling is a little better balanced in my opinion.
The thing I've always heard about is the gearbox. Aren't the mk1s prone to losing 5th or something?
Certainly my housemate's mk2 seemed bullet proof though. He bought it for all of £900 on ebay.
The one thing I want to achieve with this car is bullet-proof reliability. I've had a string of commical car failures on the way to events where it's never even made it onto the track. I really want to get more track time (and chances to complete things like the Scumball) and how well the car goes is kind of secondary at the moment. Like Murray Walker used to say - to finish first, first you have to finish!
I don't know whether to just set about modifying my current car, but I can't really afford the fibreglass bills if it was to meet the armco somewhere.
Yep some mk1's have a habit of popping out of 5th gear. The one I had the stick would move so far if you went poeron to power off in 5th I swear it was about to go. Mind you in the end the engine went pop 1st.... And I'm not the only one to blow the engine on a cheap mk1. Rusty coolant?.... Step away from the car! When I took my engine apart the rust had blocked all the waterways to the head.
I have a Rev 1 Mk2 NA that covered 2000 miles during a week's road trip to Le Mans and visiting my mum in France this time last year. Had no issues with it at all considering it's 20 years old! Great fun too. For pure track work a hard top would probably offer better body rigidity however a t-bar offer's more fun in the sun and if your planning some european jaunts would be worth having
I would say stay clear clear from a Turbo if you go the mk2 route if it's rock solid reliability you want. My housemate's turbo was a moneypit, however it was pushing out 330bhp and far from standard.
Mine has basic mod's - exhaust, induction, koni adjustable suspension, alloy's and the handling is superb. The early car's were known of there fondness for hedge's but I haven't had too many scary moments... Luggage room is good, with a large rear boot and some useful space in the front. Only bad point for my car is that the brakes aren't great, not compared with newer cars anyway. IIRC the later revsions improved on this...
I like the mk1's also - and as mentioned earlier - the 4age is a cracker of an engine.
My mr2 will be up for sale for around the 1k mark as soon too...
I would say stay clear clear from a Turbo if you go the mk2 route if it's rock solid reliability you want. My housemate's turbo was a moneypit, however it was pushing out 330bhp and far from standard.
Mine has basic mod's - exhaust, induction, koni adjustable suspension, alloy's and the handling is superb. The early car's were known of there fondness for hedge's but I haven't had too many scary moments... Luggage room is good, with a large rear boot and some useful space in the front. Only bad point for my car is that the brakes aren't great, not compared with newer cars anyway. IIRC the later revsions improved on this...
I like the mk1's also - and as mentioned earlier - the 4age is a cracker of an engine.
My mr2 will be up for sale for around the 1k mark as soon too...
I've had my 1984 Mk1 for a couple of years now, and it's never given me any trouble. I haven't tracked it, but I do drive it 'vigourously'. I'd want to upgrade the brakes for track work though.
It always sails through the WOF (NZ MOT), and the only non-working bit is the passenger leccy window. The 4AGE is a little gem of an engine, and the rest of the mechanicals seem sturdy enough.
Rot can be a problem on them, but then mine has never seen a European winter and doesn't know what salt is
It always sails through the WOF (NZ MOT), and the only non-working bit is the passenger leccy window. The 4AGE is a little gem of an engine, and the rest of the mechanicals seem sturdy enough.
Rot can be a problem on them, but then mine has never seen a European winter and doesn't know what salt is
I bought my second MK1 MR2 a few months ago and so far she's running brilliantly. However, £1000 is at the bottom end of waht you'd pay for a "bulletproof" car, and as they're now 20 years old you have to pick what problems you would prefer to deal with in that price range.
Re the 5th Gear pop out that was a fault that affected the earlier cars (C51 transmission in 84-87 cars) but was solved in the C52 transmission inlate cars. The gear stick still waggles as you accelerate/decelerate, but it's just the engine moving on the mounts. Engine and gearbox is strong but 20 year old suspension components may need replacing for track work.
The real killers are rust, rust and more rust, arches give outward signs but sills, base of A Pillars and C Pillars are the real rust traps and will fail you your MOT. They can be hidden behind welding plate, paint, filler and all manner of things, so you need to know what you're looking at.
Head over to IMOC.com and have a nose around. You get good honest cars going for fair prices. I think you should be able to get a good car for £1000 as long as you're prepared to look at a few, walk away from a few and haggle a bit.
MK2's could also be a good bet and certainly for longer journey would be more pleasant. The Mk1 is boomt, rattly and noisy at 70-80mph (on my own private 300 mile stretch of the M6 obviously).
Perhaps this will sway you:
One owner from new, 110K and history down to every fill up the car has ever had in spredsheet form. £1600 after a bit of haggling. We happy!
Re the 5th Gear pop out that was a fault that affected the earlier cars (C51 transmission in 84-87 cars) but was solved in the C52 transmission inlate cars. The gear stick still waggles as you accelerate/decelerate, but it's just the engine moving on the mounts. Engine and gearbox is strong but 20 year old suspension components may need replacing for track work.
The real killers are rust, rust and more rust, arches give outward signs but sills, base of A Pillars and C Pillars are the real rust traps and will fail you your MOT. They can be hidden behind welding plate, paint, filler and all manner of things, so you need to know what you're looking at.
Head over to IMOC.com and have a nose around. You get good honest cars going for fair prices. I think you should be able to get a good car for £1000 as long as you're prepared to look at a few, walk away from a few and haggle a bit.
MK2's could also be a good bet and certainly for longer journey would be more pleasant. The Mk1 is boomt, rattly and noisy at 70-80mph (on my own private 300 mile stretch of the M6 obviously).
Perhaps this will sway you:
One owner from new, 110K and history down to every fill up the car has ever had in spredsheet form. £1600 after a bit of haggling. We happy!
Chris71 said:
The question is how tough are they? If I could find a rot-free mk1, would the major components hold together for another 10,000 miles or so of trackdays and long distance hoons?
The other thing is track preparation... If you want a safe and durable track car - not something to set any lap records, but just good fun and reliable - would you need any mods from standard? New brake pads and hoses maybe?
My previous mk1 n/a did 30k a year for over two years and I gave up on it when it had 172k on the clock. The body work had got to the point of no repair, however the engine is now being transplanted into another shell.The other thing is track preparation... If you want a safe and durable track car - not something to set any lap records, but just good fun and reliable - would you need any mods from standard? New brake pads and hoses maybe?
They're cheap to repair and relatively easy to get parts.
I think the number of mk1s on track days versus mk2s probably answers which is most fun on track
Wedgepilot said:
I've had my 1984 Mk1 for a couple of years now, and it's never given me any trouble. I haven't tracked it, but I do drive it 'vigourously'. I'd want to upgrade the brakes for track work though.
You should get it out on track first and see how it does. I've done around 10 track days in my SC now and she's on standard brakes with reasonable (not silly expensive) pads.We've only managed to have the brakes smoking once in all that time, you may find that it's unneccesary.
I got a cheap MK1 last year for 550 quid, I took a punt on it as it didn't have any service history with it (apart from a couple of receipts for stuff from the last year or two). I did two track days last year, one at Anglesey and one at Woodbridge airfield having done nothing to it other than oil and filter change. It took the abuse fine, but showed that the suspension was completely worn out and the brakes needed refurbing. So over the winter I've put new suspension (shocks and springs), bigger brakes from a ST185 Celica GT4 on, and some OZ Superleggera wheels with Yokohama Parada tyres.
I've not put it on track yet this year, but the car is so much fun to drive, you can really chuck it about and enjoy the handling without having to reach huge speeds. I think so far I've spent about 1200-1300 on the car (including buying the car and some welding for the MOT). Which I think is a bargain!
I've not put it on track yet this year, but the car is so much fun to drive, you can really chuck it about and enjoy the handling without having to reach huge speeds. I think so far I've spent about 1200-1300 on the car (including buying the car and some welding for the MOT). Which I think is a bargain!
i've got a N/A Mk2 Rev1
no ABS no PAS.
utterly fantastic to drive.
real connection to the road, and the 3gse has *just* enough poke to keep you entertained.
coilovers and a K+N is all you should need.
and you'll have change from a grand
UK cars (GT) are cheap as chips to insure (£250 FC @ 23) and manage mid 30's mpg.
as far as cheap fun goes you cannot get better.
no ABS no PAS.
utterly fantastic to drive.
real connection to the road, and the 3gse has *just* enough poke to keep you entertained.
coilovers and a K+N is all you should need.
and you'll have change from a grand
UK cars (GT) are cheap as chips to insure (£250 FC @ 23) and manage mid 30's mpg.
as far as cheap fun goes you cannot get better.
Chris71 said:
Another thought... well, two:
Mk3 Supra (non-turbo manual)?
Celica-Supra?
Both seem reasonably realistic for the price. Any good?
My other half has tracked his mk3 supra turbo, it's a bit heavy and generally overheats the brakes after a few laps. Reasonably entertaining to drive round track, although that's probably because it's the turbo, but I think I'd always go for something a little lighter and more nimble.Mk3 Supra (non-turbo manual)?
Celica-Supra?
Both seem reasonably realistic for the price. Any good?
Gassing Station | Japanese Chat | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff