MK1 MR2 - what to look for?
Discussion
I'm going to look at one of these tomorrow as a cheap fun summer runabout for the missus, that I can borrow occasionally.
The car belongs to a colleague who's owned it a good few years but it's currently SORN'ed and I'm not sure how long it's been laid up.
Apart from the usual used car checks is there anything in particular to bear in mind with these MK1's? I know they rust a lot but this one has had new sills, front wings, SH doors so I'm hoping it won't be too bad. Thanks for your help.
The car belongs to a colleague who's owned it a good few years but it's currently SORN'ed and I'm not sure how long it's been laid up.
Apart from the usual used car checks is there anything in particular to bear in mind with these MK1's? I know they rust a lot but this one has had new sills, front wings, SH doors so I'm hoping it won't be too bad. Thanks for your help.
Apart from the aforementioned rust, you might want to check that the gearbox doesn't jump out of 5th as that seems to be a common problem. In my old one, if you accelerated hard, the gearlever would move back as if it was about to jump out of gear - never did, but was obviously heading that way.
Good luck with it, great little cars
Good luck with it, great little cars
sniff diesel said:
I'm going to look at one of these tomorrow as a cheap fun summer runabout for the missus, that I can borrow occasionally.
The car belongs to a colleague who's owned it a good few years but it's currently SORN'ed and I'm not sure how long it's been laid up.
Apart from the usual used car checks is there anything in particular to bear in mind with these MK1's? I know they rust a lot but this one has had new sills, front wings, SH doors so I'm hoping it won't be too bad. Thanks for your help.
head over to IMOC or MR2OC The car belongs to a colleague who's owned it a good few years but it's currently SORN'ed and I'm not sure how long it's been laid up.
Apart from the usual used car checks is there anything in particular to bear in mind with these MK1's? I know they rust a lot but this one has had new sills, front wings, SH doors so I'm hoping it won't be too bad. Thanks for your help.
Check the coolant level and quality in the expansion tank and also remove the coolant cap to check for any gunge in there.
Also remove oil filler cap and look for gunge, both of these points are to spot HGF.
Check the dipstick level and the quality of the oil, Mk 1's are oils sensitive and like a change every 6K.
Start her up, look for black smoke, a little white smoke is no problem as condensation builds up in the backbox.
The voltmeter should read about 15 amps (Alternators are prone to burning out) and when warming up the oil pressure should read just over half way.
Once warm take her out, do the usual checks, make sure the clutch is smooth and that the brakes pull up in a straight line, also the fifth gear check above should be done. A little movement (1cm or so)is normal but if excessive then a problem. Tyres should also be checked for unusual wear, rear wheel drive remember.
When you can floor the throttle in 2nd or 3rd and you should physically feel and audibly hear the TVIS kick in (The best bit!!)around 4500 revs, this is where the throttle bodies open up and it is on cam. This should then rev freeely an manically to 7500 revs.
When gunning it the oil pressure should read around the 3/4 mark.
Also worth checking the headlights pop up and the electrics work etc.
When the test drive is finished the oil pressure should drop to around the 1/3 mark.
You say that the bodywork has been treated but still check the undesrsides and hidden bits such as the front boot mounting, this would normally be a little decayed, if it looks as new then maybe a crash repair. also look for panel fit gaps.
Follow this and you should be able to spot any problems.
Good luck!!
They are great cars and I'm sure you'll drive it more than your missus!!!!
Also remove oil filler cap and look for gunge, both of these points are to spot HGF.
Check the dipstick level and the quality of the oil, Mk 1's are oils sensitive and like a change every 6K.
Start her up, look for black smoke, a little white smoke is no problem as condensation builds up in the backbox.
The voltmeter should read about 15 amps (Alternators are prone to burning out) and when warming up the oil pressure should read just over half way.
Once warm take her out, do the usual checks, make sure the clutch is smooth and that the brakes pull up in a straight line, also the fifth gear check above should be done. A little movement (1cm or so)is normal but if excessive then a problem. Tyres should also be checked for unusual wear, rear wheel drive remember.
When you can floor the throttle in 2nd or 3rd and you should physically feel and audibly hear the TVIS kick in (The best bit!!)around 4500 revs, this is where the throttle bodies open up and it is on cam. This should then rev freeely an manically to 7500 revs.
When gunning it the oil pressure should read around the 3/4 mark.
Also worth checking the headlights pop up and the electrics work etc.
When the test drive is finished the oil pressure should drop to around the 1/3 mark.
You say that the bodywork has been treated but still check the undesrsides and hidden bits such as the front boot mounting, this would normally be a little decayed, if it looks as new then maybe a crash repair. also look for panel fit gaps.
Follow this and you should be able to spot any problems.
Good luck!!
They are great cars and I'm sure you'll drive it more than your missus!!!!
Car looks good.
Mica Blue which is a rare and nice colour.
Looks like a T bar as well these nearly always leak and can be semi repaired cheaply with silicon or properly repaired expensively with new seals.
I had a cover on mine when outside (It's garaged now) or alternatively puts a towel on the seats to stop your bum soaking up the water!!
Mica Blue which is a rare and nice colour.
Looks like a T bar as well these nearly always leak and can be semi repaired cheaply with silicon or properly repaired expensively with new seals.
I had a cover on mine when outside (It's garaged now) or alternatively puts a towel on the seats to stop your bum soaking up the water!!
After a quick test drive I was sold. Gearshift feels a bit notchy, will have a look tomorrow if I can lubricate the cables and maybe change the gearbox oil. It could do with a good service, where do you guys recommend getting parts online?
Here's a few pics of it on this thread in readers cars:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Here's a few pics of it on this thread in readers cars:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I used www.fensport.co.uk for some upgrade parts and I believe they do service bits and bobs as well. (Use IE for their website. Opera didn't like it)
Glad your happy.
Engine bay looks good but the arches will need sorting.
Head over to IMOC or the new dedicated Mk 1 site for anything Mk1.
http://www.mr2mk1club.com/_newsite/index.php
Engine bay looks good but the arches will need sorting.
Head over to IMOC or the new dedicated Mk 1 site for anything Mk1.
http://www.mr2mk1club.com/_newsite/index.php
Edited by Uncle John on Sunday 19th April 15:59
sniff diesel said:
After a quick test drive I was sold. Gearshift feels a bit notchy, will have a look tomorrow if I can lubricate the cables and maybe change the gearbox oil.
Defo change the gearbox oil, chances are it's never been done.Check out the bushes on the gear selectors too, they can go oval and cause crap gear changes (driver ability ommited
)sniff diesel said:
After a quick test drive I was sold. Gearshift feels a bit notchy, will have a look tomorrow if I can lubricate the cables and maybe change the gearbox oil. It could do with a good service, where do you guys recommend getting parts online?
Here's a few pics of it on this thread in readers cars:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
www.camskill.co.uk for service parts, they have a Mk1 MR2 section.Here's a few pics of it on this thread in readers cars:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
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