What is an RX8 like to live with?
Discussion
Hi
I have been looking into buying an RX8 (a 190bhp one) recently as a replacement for my current everyday Honda Civic 1.6 Sport. Basically I get around 30mpg on my daily run of all B roads which is about 24 miles round trip. I want to know what an RX8 is like in reality, what is the fuel economy really like and what is likely to be the problem...
Thanks for the help.
Daz
I have been looking into buying an RX8 (a 190bhp one) recently as a replacement for my current everyday Honda Civic 1.6 Sport. Basically I get around 30mpg on my daily run of all B roads which is about 24 miles round trip. I want to know what an RX8 is like in reality, what is the fuel economy really like and what is likely to be the problem...
Thanks for the help.
Daz
Driven a few including the last Bilstein model around the hill course at Millbrook, really good fun and felt bulletproof engine-wise but gear selection was getting a bit difficult towards the end. The urban myth of early model long-term test cars coming with a can of oil in the boot is not a myth btw.
High oil use = Myth. I hardly used any in mine, although it does use it 
Fuel economy is not fantastic, on a full tank I was getting about 275 miles, 300 miles if I drove VERY sedately. Also they are prone to problems if not properly cared for, and don't assume that a full mazda service history means that it has been looked after as often the owners have unknowingly paid for an expensive stamp in the service book.
Those are the bad points, good points are that it's great fun to drive and very practical for a sports coupe Just be very careful when you buy one, as they can end up costing you a lot if you buy wrong!
Would I buy one again? Would love to but probably not, only because a lot of examples out there are poorly maintained and I would not want to risk big bills in the future
Fuel economy is not fantastic, on a full tank I was getting about 275 miles, 300 miles if I drove VERY sedately. Also they are prone to problems if not properly cared for, and don't assume that a full mazda service history means that it has been looked after as often the owners have unknowingly paid for an expensive stamp in the service book.
Those are the bad points, good points are that it's great fun to drive and very practical for a sports coupe
Just be very careful when you buy one, as they can end up costing you a lot if you buy wrong!Would I buy one again? Would love to but probably not, only because a lot of examples out there are poorly maintained and I would not want to risk big bills in the future
hornetrider said:
Think oil use, think sub 20 mpg, think issues with rotor tips killing engines, think top bracket of tax. Lovely car though, for all its mechanical foibles.
This.I've test driven a 230bhp one, it didn't feel quite as potent as the power output suggested (although I did only get it to the rev limiter once on the test drive!
) but the engine 'feels' & sounds fantastic; at low revs it sounds a bit like a washing machine, but wound up it sounded phenomenal (and wanted to rev & rev & rev!), much like a gas turbine engine. If I had the space I would have one in a heartbeat.
The people I know who have had one have suggested that the oil use thing is a myth. It seems they do use a bit initially but that dies down after a few thousand miles. You do still need to check the oil level regularly as running low on oil will kill the engine very quickly but an engine that's fully run in shouldn't use much.
I have one and it's a fairly easy car to live with if you follow the recommended maintenance procedures. Here's a little list of things to know about buying/owning an RX-8.
1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
Fuel consumption is dire no matter which way you look at it, and the 192 and 231 aren't worlds apart in this respect. I've averaged 14mpg but this is urban driving. It's up for sale actually if you're interested.
1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
Fuel consumption is dire no matter which way you look at it, and the 192 and 231 aren't worlds apart in this respect. I've averaged 14mpg but this is urban driving. It's up for sale actually if you're interested.
ensignia said:
fairly easy car to live with
1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
Is it really worth all that? Sure there are cars that are a lot easier to live with and dont have a checklist like that.1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
I had one for nearly 3 years and it was a great car, oil use wasnt bad and I only checked it if I was going on a long journey. MPG was around 18MPG which isnt great for the modest performance on offer. A to B it was fab and cornered well but could be twitchy in the wet (its RWD after all). My kids found it OK in the back but didnt like not being able to see out of it. You also need to rev the nuts off it to get the best out of the engine. oh, and it needs a decent exhaust to make it sound good.
The above does need to be followed to ensure they are kept in good condition and for those non petrol head owners coming from a car that doesnt need so much TLC its easy to see why so many have issues. Thats why there are so many knackered ones out there.
The coils on mine failed the day the new owner brought it. Luckily it had Mazda warranty. I would pay the extra and buy one from Mazda, at least you are covered.
The above does need to be followed to ensure they are kept in good condition and for those non petrol head owners coming from a car that doesnt need so much TLC its easy to see why so many have issues. Thats why there are so many knackered ones out there.
The coils on mine failed the day the new owner brought it. Luckily it had Mazda warranty. I would pay the extra and buy one from Mazda, at least you are covered.
wilbo83 said:
ensignia said:
fairly easy car to live with
1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
Is it really worth all that? Sure there are cars that are a lot easier to live with and dont have a checklist like that.1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
Oh my....once again the scare mongers are at it again!
Yes they do use a bit of oil....this is due to mechanical device called an oil metering pump (omp) squirting oil into the engine to lubricate the tips. The engine uses oil, it is designed to, but it isn't as much as a) people say (uneducated), b) something like an Evo.
They are a very durable engine, one that is extremely responsive, but it does require you to allow it to warm up. But this is good practice in most cars isn't it? The engine has twin butterflies in the throttle body which prevent the secondary inlets from opening until the engine warms up, in a similar vein to that of something like a vTec limits the engine until it is warm.
As for service parts:
Coils £45 each or £160 for all 4
Plugs are around £10 each
Leads are around £50 for a set.
Oil is just a decent mineral
It is wise to change the gearbox and diff oil regularly, but once again I would recommend this on any performance car.
They are extremely balanced, and very easy to move in and out of oversteer without any flailing of arms!! Brakes are a bit pants as standard if you are wanting to go on track....but if not they will cool down sufficiently between bends.
Mazda share the reservoir for brakes and clutch, people often find that this can make it a little awkward to select gears when the brakes become hot! It is simple to get round this though.
Economy isn't great, but this depends on the journeys you are using it on.
So don't be put off....just ensure you get a good one! For the cost of them they are fantastic value for money!
Yes they do use a bit of oil....this is due to mechanical device called an oil metering pump (omp) squirting oil into the engine to lubricate the tips. The engine uses oil, it is designed to, but it isn't as much as a) people say (uneducated), b) something like an Evo.
They are a very durable engine, one that is extremely responsive, but it does require you to allow it to warm up. But this is good practice in most cars isn't it? The engine has twin butterflies in the throttle body which prevent the secondary inlets from opening until the engine warms up, in a similar vein to that of something like a vTec limits the engine until it is warm.
As for service parts:
Coils £45 each or £160 for all 4
Plugs are around £10 each
Leads are around £50 for a set.
Oil is just a decent mineral
It is wise to change the gearbox and diff oil regularly, but once again I would recommend this on any performance car.
They are extremely balanced, and very easy to move in and out of oversteer without any flailing of arms!! Brakes are a bit pants as standard if you are wanting to go on track....but if not they will cool down sufficiently between bends.
Mazda share the reservoir for brakes and clutch, people often find that this can make it a little awkward to select gears when the brakes become hot! It is simple to get round this though.
Economy isn't great, but this depends on the journeys you are using it on.
So don't be put off....just ensure you get a good one! For the cost of them they are fantastic value for money!
Thanks for the help guys, it would appear there are a fair few things to look out for though. I am slightly put off by less than 20mpg as I don't want it to become a burden. I am looking at cars like this one http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2758285.htm
You can get an awful lot of car for the money but I am still considering other things like a DC2 integra which would be much older but would also likely be more reliable, cheaper to fix and get better fuel economy.
Hard decision, heart vs head a bit I think
You can get an awful lot of car for the money but I am still considering other things like a DC2 integra which would be much older but would also likely be more reliable, cheaper to fix and get better fuel economy.
Hard decision, heart vs head a bit I think
Last few tanks of fuel i've been getting 23 mpg, thats with a 50 mile daily commute of urban, A, B and motorway. That includes a trip to the redline every journey.
Tax is £260 ish for the year pre 2006.
IIRC its not the rotor tips thats an issue, its the apex seals on the rotors (that are lurbricated by the injection of oil, hence the use) that can go, causing the lack of compression thats been the reason for engine rebuilds.
It does seem to be a bit of a lottery regarding engines, there's been examples of engine changes/rebuild's at 30,000 miles, but also examples of ones over 200,000 on the original engine.
I love mine - i think it looks great, sounds great, and drives great. Oh, and 9,500 rpm gear changes
Tax is £260 ish for the year pre 2006.
IIRC its not the rotor tips thats an issue, its the apex seals on the rotors (that are lurbricated by the injection of oil, hence the use) that can go, causing the lack of compression thats been the reason for engine rebuilds.
It does seem to be a bit of a lottery regarding engines, there's been examples of engine changes/rebuild's at 30,000 miles, but also examples of ones over 200,000 on the original engine.
I love mine - i think it looks great, sounds great, and drives great. Oh, and 9,500 rpm gear changes
MilleniumFalcon said:
IIRC its not the rotor tips thats an issue, its the apex seals on the rotors (that are lurbricated by the injection of oil, hence the use) that can go, causing the lack of compression thats been the reason for engine rebuilds.
the rotor tips/apex seals are one the same. It isnt the only thing that can cause the engine to go, the wrong sort or plug or even carbon build ups through lack of use can cause det or pre-ignition. Oil seals or water seals can go.So there are plenty of reasons why the engine can go. Having said that, they arent expensive to rebuild or replace.
MilleniumFalcon said:
It does seem to be a bit of a lottery regarding engines, there's been examples of engine changes/rebuild's at 30,000 miles, but also examples of ones over 200,000 on the original engine.
I love mine - i think it looks great, sounds great, and drives great. Oh, and 9,500 rpm gear changes
The 9,500 rpm gear changes are the best! But I wouldnt say it was a lottery with what you get. Get a compression test, and make sure you can see evidence the coils, correct plugs and leads have been changed. Either that....scour ebay and pick up a non runner....then get a new engine put in!I love mine - i think it looks great, sounds great, and drives great. Oh, and 9,500 rpm gear changes
JontyR said:
MilleniumFalcon said:
IIRC its not the rotor tips thats an issue, its the apex seals on the rotors (that are lurbricated by the injection of oil, hence the use) that can go, causing the lack of compression thats been the reason for engine rebuilds.
the rotor tips/apex seals are one the same. It isnt the only thing that can cause the engine to go, the wrong sort or plug or even carbon build ups through lack of use can cause det or pre-ignition. Oil seals or water seals can go.So there are plenty of reasons why the engine can go. Having said that, they arent expensive to rebuild or replace.
MilleniumFalcon said:
It does seem to be a bit of a lottery regarding engines, there's been examples of engine changes/rebuild's at 30,000 miles, but also examples of ones over 200,000 on the original engine.
I love mine - i think it looks great, sounds great, and drives great. Oh, and 9,500 rpm gear changes
The 9,500 rpm gear changes are the best! But I wouldnt say it was a lottery with what you get. Get a compression test, and make sure you can see evidence the coils, correct plugs and leads have been changed. Either that....scour ebay and pick up a non runner....then get a new engine put in!I love mine - i think it looks great, sounds great, and drives great. Oh, and 9,500 rpm gear changes
McSwerve II said:
wilbo83 said:
ensignia said:
fairly easy car to live with
1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
Is it really worth all that? Sure there are cars that are a lot easier to live with and dont have a checklist like that.1) Do not shut it off when cold. These engines warm up very quickly normally so it only takes a few minutes.
2) Check oil regularly. Mine has used 2 litres in 5,000 miles.
3) Do not take the engine higher than 4000 RPM until engine is warm. Hold off from taking it to the beep (redline) until coolant and oil is sufficiently warm.
4) When buying make sure it starts properly from warm. If it doesn't it's likely to have compression problems.
5) Make sure the xenons (231 model) aren't pointing to the floor because of a faulty sensor. It'll cost about £650 to sort properly.
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