BMW 320 Coupe, anything i should know?
Discussion
Hey guys, I have put my car up for sale and am on the look out for an E46 BMW 320 coupe. Are there any common faults or problems with these cars? Anything particular to look out for? With my ~£5k budget it will be a high miler but im of the opinion that these things are built to last so should be fine, i'm also a mechanic which is handy! Is the high mileage really an issue? Also are there any particular parts that are ludicrously expensive compared to what they should be? Any help or advice regarding these cars would be greatly appreciated 
In which case i will not list the numerous things that are awful about the "d" and the auto box
Don't know about the 20i motor but it's lighter than the others so it will probably not be susceptible to the various suspension issues of the others, but i would check rear coil springs, front bushes/wishbones/balljoints depending on age as these do go on the e46.
Don't know about the 20i motor but it's lighter than the others so it will probably not be susceptible to the various suspension issues of the others, but i would check rear coil springs, front bushes/wishbones/balljoints depending on age as these do go on the e46.
So all cheap things to replace really considering i'll be doing all work myself. Whats the deal with vanos? I've heard lots of people saying that it causes expensive problems.If you're buying a 2003+, make SURE the clutch isn't juddering... when warm, when cold, after 15 mins in traffic as well. The facelifts are fitted with a DMF clutch... to do properly, £800-£1,000 to get repaired.
Make sure the window upper seals are good, these tend to get crap with age. Common problem on these... ensure the carpets don't look rotten as this would be from this.
Electric window controllers often fail. Make sure all 4 are working.
And of course, the bushes on the suspension.. biggest problem on these, thankfully not too expensive. Worst wear happens on the front wishbones, simply a poor quality rubber / bad design. Coast along a straight road, about 10-20miles an hour. Stab the brake pedal firmly a few times while holding onto the steering wheel softly with both hands. If it rocks, vibrates, shakes, the bushes need replacing. You'll know if this is the case, because it just won't feel right!
Pay more for one with good spec. The market is saturated with them at the moment and it will be even worse when you come to sell. The better the spec, the more chance it will sell easily, at a premium to the boring ones of course. Look for a Sport if possible.
Good luck!
Make sure the window upper seals are good, these tend to get crap with age. Common problem on these... ensure the carpets don't look rotten as this would be from this.
Electric window controllers often fail. Make sure all 4 are working.
And of course, the bushes on the suspension.. biggest problem on these, thankfully not too expensive. Worst wear happens on the front wishbones, simply a poor quality rubber / bad design. Coast along a straight road, about 10-20miles an hour. Stab the brake pedal firmly a few times while holding onto the steering wheel softly with both hands. If it rocks, vibrates, shakes, the bushes need replacing. You'll know if this is the case, because it just won't feel right!
Pay more for one with good spec. The market is saturated with them at the moment and it will be even worse when you come to sell. The better the spec, the more chance it will sell easily, at a premium to the boring ones of course. Look for a Sport if possible.
Good luck!
The most important peice of advice is - dont bother!
The 320Ci is fitted with an M54B22 - a 2.2 litre inline six. A great engine. But it's also available as a 2.5 and a 3.0 litre - and the running costs are identical. There is just 1mpg between them on the combined cycle. Servicing and repair costs are identical.
Put simply if you buy a 320Ci you get the running costs of a 330Ci but without the performance.
So just buy the 330Ci in the first place.
The 320Ci is fitted with an M54B22 - a 2.2 litre inline six. A great engine. But it's also available as a 2.5 and a 3.0 litre - and the running costs are identical. There is just 1mpg between them on the combined cycle. Servicing and repair costs are identical.
Put simply if you buy a 320Ci you get the running costs of a 330Ci but without the performance.
So just buy the 330Ci in the first place.
I've had my E46 320CiSE petrol/manual since new (55 Plate) has 36000 miles on the clock. It has been serviced at the correct intervals and was carefully 'run-in'. That sounds really old fashioned but none of the cars I have owned from new and 'run-in' has ever let me down. Build quality and paint finish is excellent, no rattles. Door seals all good as car is regularly washed and occasionally polished. A couple of irritating supermarket car park 'dings' which haven't broken the paint surface need sorting.
The car's spec is relatively basic with unmarked 16" standard alloys, metallic paint, and Tex trim so it is always comfortable in extremes of temperature unlike leather which looks better but takes a lot more upkeep - and yes leather does add resale value mostly as a benefit for the dealers. Minor problems sorted out under warranty were a faulty parking sensor, parking brake drum seized on, and an early in it's life 'clonk' from rear suspension all before the 20K service. Apart from servicing, a couple of new tyres has been the only real expense and it'll need another two soon. At 214gm CO2 It falls below the expensive tax band and if the trip computer is to be believed it'll return 30-ish mpg on a long run. I keep an eye on the oil consumption between services and top up with a couple of litres.
I have toyed with upgrading the alloys but that will only push my currently very reasonable insurance up. No doubt a future owner would stick different alloys on it and install leather 'chairs' which are usually electrically adjustable so would need wiring in. Unless they've got a partner who drives the car how many drivers actually alter their settings once they've found a comfortable driving position anyway?
328s, 330s and M3s might be more exciting but tend to have led a harder and sometimes track life.
Overall my one careful owner E46 is still worth a decent amount of money and is an enjoyable drive.
The car's spec is relatively basic with unmarked 16" standard alloys, metallic paint, and Tex trim so it is always comfortable in extremes of temperature unlike leather which looks better but takes a lot more upkeep - and yes leather does add resale value mostly as a benefit for the dealers. Minor problems sorted out under warranty were a faulty parking sensor, parking brake drum seized on, and an early in it's life 'clonk' from rear suspension all before the 20K service. Apart from servicing, a couple of new tyres has been the only real expense and it'll need another two soon. At 214gm CO2 It falls below the expensive tax band and if the trip computer is to be believed it'll return 30-ish mpg on a long run. I keep an eye on the oil consumption between services and top up with a couple of litres.
I have toyed with upgrading the alloys but that will only push my currently very reasonable insurance up. No doubt a future owner would stick different alloys on it and install leather 'chairs' which are usually electrically adjustable so would need wiring in. Unless they've got a partner who drives the car how many drivers actually alter their settings once they've found a comfortable driving position anyway?
328s, 330s and M3s might be more exciting but tend to have led a harder and sometimes track life.
Overall my one careful owner E46 is still worth a decent amount of money and is an enjoyable drive.
AOK said:
If you're buying a 2003+, make SURE the clutch isn't juddering... when warm, when cold, after 15 mins in traffic as well. The facelifts are fitted with a DMF clutch... to do properly, £800-£1,000 to get repaired.
Make sure the window upper seals are good, these tend to get crap with age. Common problem on these... ensure the carpets don't look rotten as this would be from this.
Electric window controllers often fail. Make sure all 4 are working.
And of course, the bushes on the suspension.. biggest problem on these, thankfully not too expensive. Worst wear happens on the front wishbones, simply a poor quality rubber / bad design. Coast along a straight road, about 10-20miles an hour. Stab the brake pedal firmly a few times while holding onto the steering wheel softly with both hands. If it rocks, vibrates, shakes, the bushes need replacing. You'll know if this is the case, because it just won't feel right!
Pay more for one with good spec. The market is saturated with them at the moment and it will be even worse when you come to sell. The better the spec, the more chance it will sell easily, at a premium to the boring ones of course. Look for a Sport if possible.
Good luck!
Cheers for all that, didn't know about the horrific price of the clutch/flywheel!Make sure the window upper seals are good, these tend to get crap with age. Common problem on these... ensure the carpets don't look rotten as this would be from this.
Electric window controllers often fail. Make sure all 4 are working.
And of course, the bushes on the suspension.. biggest problem on these, thankfully not too expensive. Worst wear happens on the front wishbones, simply a poor quality rubber / bad design. Coast along a straight road, about 10-20miles an hour. Stab the brake pedal firmly a few times while holding onto the steering wheel softly with both hands. If it rocks, vibrates, shakes, the bushes need replacing. You'll know if this is the case, because it just won't feel right!
Pay more for one with good spec. The market is saturated with them at the moment and it will be even worse when you come to sell. The better the spec, the more chance it will sell easily, at a premium to the boring ones of course. Look for a Sport if possible.
Good luck!
My preferable spec is a black m-sport, with black leather, carbon effect trim, mv2 wheels, manual, xenons and any other goodies i can get my hands on! Picky but it seems there's so much choice i can afford to be.
Insurance - A lot of you have said don't bother with the 320 as the running costs are identical with a bigger engine model and you get much more power for your money. Whilst this is brilliant advice and i would usually think oh great i'll get a 330 then, my insurance quote on the 320 is £1500 fully comp. So whilst it may make £50 difference to your insurance, it will probably make £500 to mine. Therefore i think i'm going to have to stick to the 320, i'll ring the insurers and see what they say anyway as you never know.
Does anyone know the differences between the facelift and non facelift versions?
I know that the facelift has LED rear lights and by the sounds of it a bloody expensive clutch. What other differences are there?
So spend £500 less on the car and put the saving towards insurance. The 320Ci would irritate me every time I put my foot down and realised if it was a 330Ci it wouldnt cost any more.
It'll probably break enough times in the first year that the £500 insurance saving will seem like a triaviality anyway
It'll probably break enough times in the first year that the £500 insurance saving will seem like a triaviality anyway
Fox- said:
So spend £500 less on the car and put the saving towards insurance. The 320Ci would irritate me every time I put my foot down and realised if it was a 330Ci it wouldnt cost any more.
It'll probably break enough times in the first year that the £500 insurance saving will seem like a triaviality anyway
Good thinking batman! Never thought of something as simple as thatIt'll probably break enough times in the first year that the £500 insurance saving will seem like a triaviality anyway
OP, i was in the same situation as you.. I'm somewhat young and the insurance on the 320 was going to be around £1,000. I was searching and searching for the right car, and then one came up which was a 325. Checked the insurance.. £1,300.
2 quick calculations:
Does £25 a month really justify a faster, more fun car? YES
Does an extra £300 justify buying one of the best examples around? YES
So I went and bought it! Never regretted it since!
What is your budget? I didn't buy mine that long ago, but a new job with company car means that I soon have to start thinking about selling, even though I'd rather keep it longer.
Anyway, head line features below, message me if interested:
BMW 325Ci (M) Sport Coupe Manual
2003, 53 - Facelift
42,000 miles
Exterior - black, MV2 alloys, rear parking sensors, model designation delete
Interior - black carpets, 'Blackberry' Individual Nappa leather. Carbon trim. Electric seats with Driver memory function. Auto dim rear view mirror. Climate control. Alarm system
Entertainment - Professional MkIV Satellite Navigation with TV and Intravee iPod connection. 2011 UK & Europe Maps with firmware upgrade (perspective view and speed cameras). 6 CD Changer. Single cassette player. Harman Kardon loudspeaker system with factory fit amplifier in boot, bluetooth
2 quick calculations:
Does £25 a month really justify a faster, more fun car? YES
Does an extra £300 justify buying one of the best examples around? YES
So I went and bought it! Never regretted it since!
What is your budget? I didn't buy mine that long ago, but a new job with company car means that I soon have to start thinking about selling, even though I'd rather keep it longer.
Anyway, head line features below, message me if interested:
BMW 325Ci (M) Sport Coupe Manual
2003, 53 - Facelift
42,000 miles
Exterior - black, MV2 alloys, rear parking sensors, model designation delete
Interior - black carpets, 'Blackberry' Individual Nappa leather. Carbon trim. Electric seats with Driver memory function. Auto dim rear view mirror. Climate control. Alarm system
Entertainment - Professional MkIV Satellite Navigation with TV and Intravee iPod connection. 2011 UK & Europe Maps with firmware upgrade (perspective view and speed cameras). 6 CD Changer. Single cassette player. Harman Kardon loudspeaker system with factory fit amplifier in boot, bluetooth
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