Discussion
For £2k, quite a bit.
You can pretty much have your pick of any of those that you mentioned. The only exception being exceedlingly low-mileage examples which seem to be coming out of the woodword in recent months.
A late 525 sport is a wonderful car, well specced and can be had in excellent condition with probably sub-100k for that money.
A 535 sport is also very good, although harder to find. You can get one for similar money to the 525.
540's are cheaper - given they're saddled with the M60 4.0 lump. One killer is fuel consumption, the other is nikasil worries. As a result, people tend to avoid what is an excellent car. Top choice would be a late car with a 6 speed manual - if you can find one.
The touring's are a great all-rounder and they had the 6 speeder, too.
You can pretty much have your pick of any of those that you mentioned. The only exception being exceedlingly low-mileage examples which seem to be coming out of the woodword in recent months.
A late 525 sport is a wonderful car, well specced and can be had in excellent condition with probably sub-100k for that money.
A 535 sport is also very good, although harder to find. You can get one for similar money to the 525.
540's are cheaper - given they're saddled with the M60 4.0 lump. One killer is fuel consumption, the other is nikasil worries. As a result, people tend to avoid what is an excellent car. Top choice would be a late car with a 6 speed manual - if you can find one.
The touring's are a great all-rounder and they had the 6 speeder, too.
Lots of info on buying E34s via a search here.
Typical things to watch for:
- bubbles of rust in the rear arch lips and bottom of doors (though the E34 does not rust badly unless neglected)
- Shimmies in the steering or under brakng typically around 50mph - the front upper arm bushes wear and cause this.
- Play in the (complex) steering mech - usually fixable by replacing parts (U-joint) or tightening adjustable things.
-Vanos noises on late sixes.
Many other little things possible of course, but with that buudget the world is your oyster - hold-out to buy the best you can. They're great cars and almost all niggles are quite easily fixed too. Not that I've had many - I'm 3years into running a 540 as a daily driver - and it's just great; details in garage blog in my profile.
Typical things to watch for:
- bubbles of rust in the rear arch lips and bottom of doors (though the E34 does not rust badly unless neglected)
- Shimmies in the steering or under brakng typically around 50mph - the front upper arm bushes wear and cause this.
- Play in the (complex) steering mech - usually fixable by replacing parts (U-joint) or tightening adjustable things.
-Vanos noises on late sixes.
Many other little things possible of course, but with that buudget the world is your oyster - hold-out to buy the best you can. They're great cars and almost all niggles are quite easily fixed too. Not that I've had many - I'm 3years into running a 540 as a daily driver - and it's just great; details in garage blog in my profile.
I have a really lovely 540 auto touring one of the last with full leather and twin sunroof, concealed tow bar in rear bumper the lot ! They are wonderful to drive a real cruiser I get about 25 mpg, more on a run . The touring is amazingly practical too we took a wardrobe to france in ours . Our local specialist says its the best e34 he has seen in ages.
Go and find one is my advice you wont regret it.
Go and find one is my advice you wont regret it.
if looking at the straight sixes, the M30 just IS better than the 525i in every possible way in terms of driving, just not fuel economy. if fuel economy is of slight concern, 525i every time. the 535i has much better low down torque and is generally a bit smoother, but it's just because it's a big old lump. the 535i is also probably BMWs best ever built model, the M30 lump is pretty blood solid and if serviced routinely will run past 250k miles with ease.
that said, a late 525i isn't bad. don't get an early 525i with the M20 in it, get the revised M50 with vanos.
that said, a late 525i isn't bad. don't get an early 525i with the M20 in it, get the revised M50 with vanos.
Rusting sills, rear number plate light surrounds in boot lid are a weak spot as is the lip in the rear panel just above the bumper. There are drain holes there which rust like a sod around the rubber bungs.
The instrument binnacle lights are piss easy to replace and dirt cheap! But people don't know this
Light control modules are notorious for telling you various bulbs are out when they're actually fine! Both my E34s had this issue. Replacement modules can be sourced but they're not always to blame (have a useful auto electrician to hand).
Air-con systems often struggle due to lack of pollen filter change. It's a bugger to get to but make a huge difference to air-flow through the vents.
The 540 is not bad on fuel. My auto easily gave over 30mpg on a run and touches 20mpg in town (if your'e gentle). It is also effortlessly fast and comfy. VANOS M50 525i is a good motor too. Silky smooth and drinks a little less.
V8 and nikasil issues are rare now. Many had replacement engines (mine at 37k), others would have died by now if they were going to. Allegedly the better ones come from the southern half of the country where the fuel was better quality.
As someone above said, find the very best you can and you'll be rewarded with what I believe to be the best car I've ever owned. To see how well built they are just lift the carpet and check out the insulation. Almost everything is chunky and bolted into place allowing for easy DIY.
Finally, make sure it has had the water pump replaced with a metal one. If not, do it before it falls apart, the engine goes thermonuclear and melts your head(S)
Happy shopping
The instrument binnacle lights are piss easy to replace and dirt cheap! But people don't know this
Light control modules are notorious for telling you various bulbs are out when they're actually fine! Both my E34s had this issue. Replacement modules can be sourced but they're not always to blame (have a useful auto electrician to hand).
Air-con systems often struggle due to lack of pollen filter change. It's a bugger to get to but make a huge difference to air-flow through the vents.
The 540 is not bad on fuel. My auto easily gave over 30mpg on a run and touches 20mpg in town (if your'e gentle). It is also effortlessly fast and comfy. VANOS M50 525i is a good motor too. Silky smooth and drinks a little less.
V8 and nikasil issues are rare now. Many had replacement engines (mine at 37k), others would have died by now if they were going to. Allegedly the better ones come from the southern half of the country where the fuel was better quality.
As someone above said, find the very best you can and you'll be rewarded with what I believe to be the best car I've ever owned. To see how well built they are just lift the carpet and check out the insulation. Almost everything is chunky and bolted into place allowing for easy DIY.
Finally, make sure it has had the water pump replaced with a metal one. If not, do it before it falls apart, the engine goes thermonuclear and melts your head(S)
Happy shopping
Edited by Six Fiend on Monday 11th July 21:52
Six Fiend said:
Light control modules are notorious for telling you various bulbs are out when they're actually fine! Both my E34s had this issue. Replacement modules can be sourced but they're not always to blame (have a useful auto electrician to hand).
Three easy fixes for LKM problems:1) Clean the contacts of the offending bulb (esp the bulb contacts for rear number plate lights)
2) Unplug the headlamp aim motors - cures almost all LKM troubles and no-one knows why!
3) If that doesnt do it - pull the unit and check/resolder any cracks in solder around the relay pins. 15min job.
Huff said:
Six Fiend said:
Light control modules are notorious for telling you various bulbs are out when they're actually fine! Both my E34s had this issue. Replacement modules can be sourced but they're not always to blame (have a useful auto electrician to hand).
Three easy fixes for LKM problems:1) Clean the contacts of the offending bulb (esp the bulb contacts for rear number plate lights)
2) Unplug the headlamp aim motors - cures almost all LKM troubles and no-one knows why!
3) If that doesnt do it - pull the unit and check/resolder any cracks in solder around the relay pins. 15min job.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff