BMW 323i buying advice
Discussion
Just to concur with Harleyboy, they are robust if looked after.
I bought mine (328) at 130K as I did few miles, then promptly started contracting in Birmingham, 60K miles in 4 yrs later, generally only serviceable items replaced (pads, discs, etc.), I did replace the waterpump out of caution when the belts where done and a front hose which had gone, plus a few bushes/ball joints along the way but that's about it.
A slight fiddle is that it had a new block at 30K thanks to Nikasil so engine wise you could consider it a 160K car now. It cost me a few hundred to get the arches sorted and I've got rust coming through on the boot lip but it's perfectly presentable and looks like a 3 yr old car until you look closely.
Mine is as multi owner car but despite it's mileage it's got FSH.
So if you want my view - Late 90's engineering/build quality/rust proofing for BMWs is probably some of the best you'll find, cars of this era are still relatively simple to fix but evidence of care and repair is really important. There are plenty out there so worth taking your time to find a good one.
I bought mine (328) at 130K as I did few miles, then promptly started contracting in Birmingham, 60K miles in 4 yrs later, generally only serviceable items replaced (pads, discs, etc.), I did replace the waterpump out of caution when the belts where done and a front hose which had gone, plus a few bushes/ball joints along the way but that's about it.
A slight fiddle is that it had a new block at 30K thanks to Nikasil so engine wise you could consider it a 160K car now. It cost me a few hundred to get the arches sorted and I've got rust coming through on the boot lip but it's perfectly presentable and looks like a 3 yr old car until you look closely.
Mine is as multi owner car but despite it's mileage it's got FSH.
So if you want my view - Late 90's engineering/build quality/rust proofing for BMWs is probably some of the best you'll find, cars of this era are still relatively simple to fix but evidence of care and repair is really important. There are plenty out there so worth taking your time to find a good one.
rust under the bootlid and on rear arches...if it has sill covers, check to see if the sills are OK
rear suspension should feel tight and no knocks or clunks, rear bushes may need doing or broken road springs if there are...
engine should idle smoothly and evenly...no smoke on acceleration (read up on Nikasil). If it is sold as a "sport" check the V5...all sports should say so on there...should have black headlining, too...
rear suspension should feel tight and no knocks or clunks, rear bushes may need doing or broken road springs if there are...
engine should idle smoothly and evenly...no smoke on acceleration (read up on Nikasil). If it is sold as a "sport" check the V5...all sports should say so on there...should have black headlining, too...
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