E30 316 good temporary snotter?
Discussion
The major concern is rust. Even though it may only be a temporary, it's worth checking it over thoroughly to make sure a hooky MOT isn't the only thing holding the car together.
Check the 'jacking' points, inner sills, floor pan (particularly under the seats and front footwells, front scuttle and the battery tray in the o/s/r of the boot.
The M10 is a lousy engine, but good enough for a winter hack. It's belt driven and can get very tappy on the top-end so dont; be too surprised if that sounds like a skeleton having a w
k in a biscuit tin when you first start it up.
That said, there are decent examples out there but they are very few and far between.
Check the 'jacking' points, inner sills, floor pan (particularly under the seats and front footwells, front scuttle and the battery tray in the o/s/r of the boot.
The M10 is a lousy engine, but good enough for a winter hack. It's belt driven and can get very tappy on the top-end so dont; be too surprised if that sounds like a skeleton having a w
k in a biscuit tin when you first start it up.That said, there are decent examples out there but they are very few and far between.
Frances The Mute said:
The major concern is rust. Even though it may only be a temporary, it's worth checking it over thoroughly to make sure a hooky MOT isn't the only thing holding the car together.
Check the 'jacking' points, inner sills, floor pan (particularly under the seats and front footwells, front scuttle and the battery tray in the o/s/r of the boot.
The M10 is a lousy engine, but good enough for a winter hack. It's belt driven and can get very tappy on the top-end so dont; be too surprised if that sounds like a skeleton having a wk in a biscuit tin when you first start it up.
That said, there are decent examples out there but they are very few and far between.
I agree about the rot, thats the main thing to look out for.Check the 'jacking' points, inner sills, floor pan (particularly under the seats and front footwells, front scuttle and the battery tray in the o/s/r of the boot.
The M10 is a lousy engine, but good enough for a winter hack. It's belt driven and can get very tappy on the top-end so dont; be too surprised if that sounds like a skeleton having a w
k in a biscuit tin when you first start it up.That said, there are decent examples out there but they are very few and far between.
The M10 isn't a lousy engine and much tougher than the M40/42. Its as tough as old boots with a chain driven cam. The tappets are manually adjustable and the rattles you hear are usually from the distributer drive gear but this can be quite loud.
Remember this is the engine that BMW got 1500bhp out of in the 70s with a standard block!
Frances The Mute said:
The M10 is a lousy engine, but good enough for a winter hack. It's belt driven and can get very tappy on the top-end so dont; be too surprised if that sounds like a skeleton having a wk in a biscuit tin when you first start it up.
the M10 is chain driven and is as pretty much as tough as they come. been in a few M10 engined cars, not least my own E21 which i did 30k miles in, sounded fine on cold start up, never smoked or anything and was 29 years old when i sold it.k in a biscuit tin when you first start it up.slow, yes. lousy, no. the M10 can take massive abuse and just keeps coming back for more. just change the oil regularly.
Looking at one example with 9 months MOT. 104k on the clock, looks really decent nick. All electrics work and interior looks good. I just need something to get me to work and back over the next few months. Bit wary of bidding without viewing like! But ad assures drives fine and has no issues.
As someone else has said - it's the body not the mechanics that you need to have a look at.
Parts are cheap (even from BMW) and o/e by bmw is still supplied (how many other firms do this?).
They rust from the inside out.
Check rear-wheel arches, Front scuttle, open the sunroof and use torch to look right to the back, check inside the boot and down the sides, lift front footwell carpets (wet?) - not good, if it's got side skirts - check behind.
As a cheap snotter they are great (i'm biased) but the 1.6 is a little weak and not great on petrol. Depending on budget look for 318i or 318iS or 325i but not the 320. 320 has worse mpg than 318 or 325.
I've had both and over a variety of driving the 325 was consistently better.
Parts are cheap (even from BMW) and o/e by bmw is still supplied (how many other firms do this?).
They rust from the inside out.
Check rear-wheel arches, Front scuttle, open the sunroof and use torch to look right to the back, check inside the boot and down the sides, lift front footwell carpets (wet?) - not good, if it's got side skirts - check behind.
As a cheap snotter they are great (i'm biased) but the 1.6 is a little weak and not great on petrol. Depending on budget look for 318i or 318iS or 325i but not the 320. 320 has worse mpg than 318 or 325.
I've had both and over a variety of driving the 325 was consistently better.
Well I'm in no rush. Budgets 1k maximum, as my insurance is ~400 per year. So ideally do it all for a grand but its a big ask.. but not impossible.
There's also a 1993 525i a few miles from me that's fairly tempting but I don't know if the economy would put me off. I'd appreciate 30 mpg + if do able. If rust is key then I'm best off viewing in person really.
There's also a 1993 525i a few miles from me that's fairly tempting but I don't know if the economy would put me off. I'd appreciate 30 mpg + if do able. If rust is key then I'm best off viewing in person really.
You might be lucky to come across a well specced number.
Leather seats - worth something (£200 for non-marked 'comfort' seats, £300+++++ for Recaro leather sports seats, £300++ for Recaro cloth seats)
Mtec 1 or 2 steering wheels - £35-£50
BBS alloys - 15" (not the 14"'s - drifters like the 14"'s but they aren't universally popular). £100 or more depending on tyres and condition.
BBS hub caps - £15 each.
BBS hub cap removal tool - £30.
Original stereo's are in demand
If you've got OBC, cruise control, AC, Rear mirror with map light, pristine tool kit, Mtec II body kit; all these are sought after.
Leather seats - worth something (£200 for non-marked 'comfort' seats, £300+++++ for Recaro leather sports seats, £300++ for Recaro cloth seats)
Mtec 1 or 2 steering wheels - £35-£50
BBS alloys - 15" (not the 14"'s - drifters like the 14"'s but they aren't universally popular). £100 or more depending on tyres and condition.
BBS hub caps - £15 each.
BBS hub cap removal tool - £30.
Original stereo's are in demand
If you've got OBC, cruise control, AC, Rear mirror with map light, pristine tool kit, Mtec II body kit; all these are sought after.
Jimmy - what sort of journey's are you doing?
I did 50,000 miles in my 325i (and it eventually had 228,000 miles on the clock) and i returned 29.4mpg.
And bear in mind I simply couldn't resist not driving her properly too.
Awesome, awesome engine.
the 1993 525i is very nice car and I think will get you 30mpg; this is the M50 engine. If it's 1993 you're looking at the M50 engine which was 2.5ltr with 192bhp. If you're lucky you'll get an M50TU (which is uprated with VANOS on the intake side which helped flatten the torgue curve and I think upped the mpg by 10%. In my view - definitely worth a look. The engine is a timing chain too.
I did 50,000 miles in my 325i (and it eventually had 228,000 miles on the clock) and i returned 29.4mpg.
And bear in mind I simply couldn't resist not driving her properly too.
Awesome, awesome engine.
the 1993 525i is very nice car and I think will get you 30mpg; this is the M50 engine. If it's 1993 you're looking at the M50 engine which was 2.5ltr with 192bhp. If you're lucky you'll get an M50TU (which is uprated with VANOS on the intake side which helped flatten the torgue curve and I think upped the mpg by 10%. In my view - definitely worth a look. The engine is a timing chain too.
The 525 is only 8 mile away and has been up for sale a while. I reckon I could go with cash and get my Brewer on and get a bit off. Insurance is £430 for it too.
My drive to work is only a 12 mile round trip (couple of A roads) which is the majority of the weekly stuff. Occasional use at weekends too, mostly pleasure. Overall not a great amount. I bet I don't do more than 6-7k a year. I don't flinch from the 28mpg the Z4 returns but I was hoping for maybe a bit more. A chap at work has a purple 525 with some subtle mods and I think it looks brilliant.
My drive to work is only a 12 mile round trip (couple of A roads) which is the majority of the weekly stuff. Occasional use at weekends too, mostly pleasure. Overall not a great amount. I bet I don't do more than 6-7k a year. I don't flinch from the 28mpg the Z4 returns but I was hoping for maybe a bit more. A chap at work has a purple 525 with some subtle mods and I think it looks brilliant.
I've been offered an 88 316 for less than half the budget. MOT till Oct. Supposedly good solid condition and the insurance is only 300. Car looks very very clean. I'll more than likely go this route as its just so cheap if anything goes bang I'll weigh it in and go again. Question, will it be the carbed 1.8 I'll be getting?
Well I'm picking it up tomorrow. Vendor says its the 1.6 but every car check I've used tells me it's the 1766cc one. Presuming they don't really know. It's an '88 316i. They also state it's tax less but is coming up as taxed till April. Does it take a while to update the data base? Obviously I'll check the VIN actually corresponds with the car! Just curious.
The 316 (carb'd) is a 1766cc M10 engine. sub 90bhp! The 316i was a 1600cc m40 engine. If the check is coming back as 1766cc, you've got the M10. '88 was in the transition period between the 2 engines.
ETA: I had a white 316i for a few months, just to drive the mile to work and back. Nice cars, smooth and we tended to use it fairly often as it wofted down the b-roads quite happily.
ETA: I had a white 316i for a few months, just to drive the mile to work and back. Nice cars, smooth and we tended to use it fairly often as it wofted down the b-roads quite happily.
Edited by illmonkey on Thursday 22 December 15:52
I'd be tempted to just take the Z4 out of hibernation? It's a reasonably modern M54 engined BMW not a classic Ferrari, it doesn't need to be garaged over winter. It's reliable, dependable, will start first time every time and is nicer than driving around in a snotter.
I've happily driven to work in a Z4 3.0i when it's -1c outside. I even had the roof down
I've happily driven to work in a Z4 3.0i when it's -1c outside. I even had the roof down
Fox- said:
I'd be tempted to just take the Z4 out of hibernation? It's a reasonably modern M54 engined BMW not a classic Ferrari, it doesn't need to be garaged over winter. It's reliable, dependable, will start first time every time and is nicer than driving around in a snotter.
I've happily driven to work in a Z4 3.0i when it's -1c outside. I even had the roof down
Amen to that! Took the other halfs z3 out last weekend, top down, heating up. Best time for it!I've happily driven to work in a Z4 3.0i when it's -1c outside. I even had the roof down
Although rolling in an E30 is good fun too!
Jimmy No Hands said:
Well I'm picking it up tomorrow. Vendor says its the 1.6 but every car check I've used tells me it's the 1766cc one. Presuming they don't really know. It's an '88 316i. They also state it's tax less but is coming up as taxed till April. Does it take a while to update the data base? Obviously I'll check the VIN actually corresponds with the car! Just curious.
I had a 1.8 M10 `88 car. The main problem with the lack of power is the stty Pierburg carb on it.I ripped mine off, made up a baseplate adaptor and bolted on a Weber DGAS twinchoke from a Capri.
This made a massive difference and changed the car entirely, it had snappy throttle response and heaps more poke!
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