Going to look at a Z3. Tips please?
Discussion
I'm really no expert, but I recently looked at 10 or so cars before chosing my 2001 3 litre Z3. The bodies are galvanised so you don't seem to see rusty ones; if you do then beware. A few things to look/listen for:
Airbag light might be stuck on (check they haven't taken the lamp out
).
Check the seats move forwards, backward and upwards if electric as they can seize.
Check that the seats don't 'rock' when braking/accelarating (bushes under the seat go soft).
Front wishbones have a rear bush that can wear/go soft causing wandering and/or clunks. Could also be the anti rollbar link rod bush.
Some models have a plastic impellor on the water pump, not sure if the 2.0 is one, but if it's been recently replaced then one less worry (mine had).
Slow electric windows may need the runners cleaning and silicon spraying, but non working could be failed motor if runners have been left like this for a long time.
It's quite easy to reset the service lights these days, so if all the green lights are showing, then the 'recent service' should be proven by the history.
Airleaks on the various pipework around the airbox can cause flat spots and poor power more noticed at lower engine speeds. Sometimes it's just a little pin hole and hard to spot.
Check the boot floor for damp as the brake light on the boot lid has a seal that can fail.
Check all the carpets for damp incase the roof isn't watertight and look carefully at the roof for rips or splits: A scruffy one can be reproofed, but splits not so easily.
A stiff gearchange on the six cylinder models could be the clutch needing a bleed, the gearbox oil changing or worst case a selector pin replacement (box out job, clue is that the lever doesn't spring to the centre, rather it goes across to 5th position).
None of the above items are massively expensive in isolation, but if you manage to find one with all of the above, then maybe not a good buy.
They may be useful as bartering tools though. You might not find a car of that age with a BMWFSH, but many seem to have been looked after by BMW specialists, which may not be a bad thing (mine was a mix with later ones by a specialist, with lots of receipts). You can also find out more if you google for Zroadster as there are a couple of Z specific websites/forums.
Hope this helps, good luck with the search.
Airbag light might be stuck on (check they haven't taken the lamp out
).Check the seats move forwards, backward and upwards if electric as they can seize.
Check that the seats don't 'rock' when braking/accelarating (bushes under the seat go soft).
Front wishbones have a rear bush that can wear/go soft causing wandering and/or clunks. Could also be the anti rollbar link rod bush.
Some models have a plastic impellor on the water pump, not sure if the 2.0 is one, but if it's been recently replaced then one less worry (mine had).
Slow electric windows may need the runners cleaning and silicon spraying, but non working could be failed motor if runners have been left like this for a long time.
It's quite easy to reset the service lights these days, so if all the green lights are showing, then the 'recent service' should be proven by the history.
Airleaks on the various pipework around the airbox can cause flat spots and poor power more noticed at lower engine speeds. Sometimes it's just a little pin hole and hard to spot.
Check the boot floor for damp as the brake light on the boot lid has a seal that can fail.
Check all the carpets for damp incase the roof isn't watertight and look carefully at the roof for rips or splits: A scruffy one can be reproofed, but splits not so easily.
A stiff gearchange on the six cylinder models could be the clutch needing a bleed, the gearbox oil changing or worst case a selector pin replacement (box out job, clue is that the lever doesn't spring to the centre, rather it goes across to 5th position).
None of the above items are massively expensive in isolation, but if you manage to find one with all of the above, then maybe not a good buy.
They may be useful as bartering tools though. You might not find a car of that age with a BMWFSH, but many seem to have been looked after by BMW specialists, which may not be a bad thing (mine was a mix with later ones by a specialist, with lots of receipts). You can also find out more if you google for Zroadster as there are a couple of Z specific websites/forums.Hope this helps, good luck with the search.
Just what I've picked up from looking at them and also reading up since I got mine (I have a wishbone bush to change and clutch to bleed ). Really enjoying my purchase, any excuse to go out and drive it, even when I'd just driven my work's car back from Manchester earlier today I had to pop out in the Z3 tonight for a quick blast.
). Really enjoying my purchase, any excuse to go out and drive it, even when I'd just driven my work's car back from Manchester earlier today I had to pop out in the Z3 tonight for a quick blast. Good list there OldSkool.
Bushes are the thing - an example with worn bushes will feel terrible on the road, and the rears can be just as problematical as the front. However, upgrades (Z3M items for the front) are cheap to get , and make a huge difference.
Broken wing mirrors are a costly fix - 260 a side from memory - they seize in place, and then get snapped off very easily.
Seats rocking is a big problem, but a relatively simple fix to do yourself, and only costs a little over a tenner. (Took me a couple of hours last week)
I prefer the widebody versions myself!
Bushes are the thing - an example with worn bushes will feel terrible on the road, and the rears can be just as problematical as the front. However, upgrades (Z3M items for the front) are cheap to get , and make a huge difference.
Broken wing mirrors are a costly fix - 260 a side from memory - they seize in place, and then get snapped off very easily.
Seats rocking is a big problem, but a relatively simple fix to do yourself, and only costs a little over a tenner. (Took me a couple of hours last week)
I prefer the widebody versions myself!
Nice hardtop> Just fitted one to mine tonight to keep it a bit more secure when the car's not in use as it's left outside. I love the widebody version too as when I look in the rear view mirrors I can see those bulging arches, plus the sound of the six cyliner engine is good too.
I thought I'd maybe paid a bit over the odds for mine as I wanted a really tidy one with good history. Of course there is the odd job to do, but it seems to have paid off as so far no nasty post purchase surprises have cropped up. The guy whose hardtop I bought helped me swop over the parts from his car to mine and he was very compementry about my car's appearance/interior and I haven't even had chance to give it a proper polish yet.
Just fitted one to mine tonight to keep it a bit more secure when the car's not in use as it's left outside. I love the widebody version too as when I look in the rear view mirrors I can see those bulging arches, plus the sound of the six cyliner engine is good too.I thought I'd maybe paid a bit over the odds for mine as I wanted a really tidy one with good history. Of course there is the odd job to do, but it seems to have paid off as so far no nasty post purchase surprises have cropped up. The guy whose hardtop I bought helped me swop over the parts from his car to mine and he was very compementry about my car's appearance/interior and I haven't even had chance to give it a proper polish yet.
Cheers.
Damned expensive those hardtops - that one was 700 and not even the right colour!
The Red Zed cost 6K, four years ago. Had done 64K then, and it's up to about 75 now, and still has FBMWSH, though it has had lots of work done outside the network. New clutch and DMF a couple of years ago wasn't cheap, and it's also had new brakes/pads front and rear, as well as new tyres all round. Needs new front TCA bushes, and possibly rear subframe bushes as well at some point in the future.
It's never gone wrong or failed to complete a journey, but it sadly seems to attract idiots - it's been driven into by a bus, had the mirrors knocked off it and been scratched down the near side.
Damned expensive those hardtops - that one was 700 and not even the right colour!
The Red Zed cost 6K, four years ago. Had done 64K then, and it's up to about 75 now, and still has FBMWSH, though it has had lots of work done outside the network. New clutch and DMF a couple of years ago wasn't cheap, and it's also had new brakes/pads front and rear, as well as new tyres all round. Needs new front TCA bushes, and possibly rear subframe bushes as well at some point in the future.
It's never gone wrong or failed to complete a journey, but it sadly seems to attract idiots - it's been driven into by a bus, had the mirrors knocked off it and been scratched down the near side.
Edited by Rollcage on Friday 16th March 00:17
Rollcage said:
Cheers.
Damned expensive those hardtops - that one was 700 and not even the right colour!
The Red Zed cost 6K, four years ago. Had done 64K then, and it's up to about 75 now, and still has FBMWSH, though it has had lots of work done outside the network. New clutch and DMS a couple of years ago wasn't cheap, and it's also had new brakes/pads front and rear, as well as new tyres all round. Needs new front TCA bushes, and possibly rear subframe bushes as well at some point in the future.
It's never gone wrong or failed to complete a journey, but it sadly seems to attract idiots - it's been driven into by a bus, had the mirrors knocked off it and been scratched down the near side.
You guys with the Z3s, see you referring to protecting the cars, and having hardtops. I have found that the simplest way to protect my Convertibles from weather, vandalism, birds, unwanted attention is an outdoor car cover. Very useful for when the hardtop is stored away. Halfords do a fairly cheap fully waterproof cover in 3/4 sizes....though it obviously won't protect the P&J from the attentions of a runaway bus!..Damned expensive those hardtops - that one was 700 and not even the right colour!
The Red Zed cost 6K, four years ago. Had done 64K then, and it's up to about 75 now, and still has FBMWSH, though it has had lots of work done outside the network. New clutch and DMS a couple of years ago wasn't cheap, and it's also had new brakes/pads front and rear, as well as new tyres all round. Needs new front TCA bushes, and possibly rear subframe bushes as well at some point in the future.
It's never gone wrong or failed to complete a journey, but it sadly seems to attract idiots - it's been driven into by a bus, had the mirrors knocked off it and been scratched down the near side.
Bought mine in October last year. 2000X 3 litre with 32k on the clock. Been in the garage twice for new sensors. First instance the fault was picked by the BMW indie that ran a pre -purchase diagnostic test on the car which cost £60 though saved me £265 which I further negotiated off the price. Three months later the crankshaft sensor went costing £180. Otherwise has run perfectly. Indie said that the sensor faults were simply age related.
Mine came with a hardtop. Did not realise how much they sell for. Almost 15% the cost of the car!
Mine came with a hardtop. Did not realise how much they sell for. Almost 15% the cost of the car!
OldSkoolRS said:
The bodies are galvanised so you don't seem to see rusty ones; if you do then beware.
I didn't think any BMWs were galvanised? In my experience most BMWs tend to rust at some point in their lives once they get past a certain age. It's certainly true of the E46/E39/E38 OldSkoolRS said:
or worst case a selector pin replacement (box out job, clue is that the lever doesn't spring to the centre, rather it goes across to 5th position).
The sticky gear lever not centering is a common problem on the 6 cylinder models. Most of the time it just does it when the car is cold and it goes away once the engine is warmed. It wouldn't stop me buying an otherwise good car as long as it was ok once warm. I lived with it on an E46 and an E39 and it never got any worse. Did think about a cover, but It still wouldn't stop someone cutting the roof through it plus I'd be concerned about the straps rubbing against the paintwork.
@ChasW selling a car with a hardtop fitted doesn't seem to increase the price much, so people seem to sell them separately which is what the guy who sold me mine was doing. I'll likely do the same myself in future, so should get the 650 back regardless of how much the car itself has depreciated.
The body panels are galvanised, but there can still be issues with rust where the panels bolt on such as the rear wings (which unusally are bolt on items). I'm going to take out the liners and clean, then treat the seams, etc with Bilt Hamber products.
The gearbox issue with mine is only slight, but it's because I drive my company car which is a brand new 320d, so it tends to make the Z3's shift seem worse by comparison. It does centre fine even when cold, just that the lower gears need a bit of a shove. I've found that pumping the clutch pedal tends to make engaging first or reverse easier, which makes me think that bleeding the system will help (or maybe replacing the flexible pipe).
@ChasW selling a car with a hardtop fitted doesn't seem to increase the price much, so people seem to sell them separately which is what the guy who sold me mine was doing. I'll likely do the same myself in future, so should get the 650 back regardless of how much the car itself has depreciated.
The body panels are galvanised, but there can still be issues with rust where the panels bolt on such as the rear wings (which unusally are bolt on items). I'm going to take out the liners and clean, then treat the seams, etc with Bilt Hamber products.
The gearbox issue with mine is only slight, but it's because I drive my company car which is a brand new 320d, so it tends to make the Z3's shift seem worse by comparison. It does centre fine even when cold, just that the lower gears need a bit of a shove. I've found that pumping the clutch pedal tends to make engaging first or reverse easier, which makes me think that bleeding the system will help (or maybe replacing the flexible pipe).
Agree on hardtop. If I were to sell I would sell car and top separately. I keep my car in the garage so don't really need the top. It is useful if you have to use the car in foul weather or on long motorway journey as it makes a big difference to the noise levels. It also looks good imho.
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