2008 E90 Brake Judder
Discussion
Hi,
I've noticed a brake judder on my E90. I mainly notice it coming off a slip road so braking from 70 to 10. It is speed related in that below 20 I can feel that the judder is less often if that makes sense.
Front pads and discs were changed a month ago and I still seem to get it. Going from my memory I feel the judder/vibration via the brake pedal and not the steering wheel like many have reported on here when I searched. The rear discs I reckon are 18 months old but I do about 22k miles a year on the motorway.
Is there anything else I should be looking at? Not mechanically minded so would be taking this to a local garage but it's nice to have a little info if possible before I walk in.
TIA
I've noticed a brake judder on my E90. I mainly notice it coming off a slip road so braking from 70 to 10. It is speed related in that below 20 I can feel that the judder is less often if that makes sense.
Front pads and discs were changed a month ago and I still seem to get it. Going from my memory I feel the judder/vibration via the brake pedal and not the steering wheel like many have reported on here when I searched. The rear discs I reckon are 18 months old but I do about 22k miles a year on the motorway.
Is there anything else I should be looking at? Not mechanically minded so would be taking this to a local garage but it's nice to have a little info if possible before I walk in.
TIA
Thanks, I had a seized rear calliper fixed 12 months ago and I had the issue before the front pads and discs were changed.
Those who found the calliper seized on the rear completed the front disc and pad change and didn't spot it.
MOT in a months time when they will see the car again. Wondered if it could be suspension or something, maybe bushes.
Those who found the calliper seized on the rear completed the front disc and pad change and didn't spot it.
MOT in a months time when they will see the car again. Wondered if it could be suspension or something, maybe bushes.
Agree with slippydiff.
Next time, after a drive, feel each of the wheels to see if one of them is hotter than the others. That's the the sure sign of a caliper binding, causing the brake on that corner to heat up even if you aren't using it.
I had front pads and rotors replaced on mine without any issues reported and still had a seized caliper a few months later. So then had to replace them all over again
Makes sense if you have one to do at least both on the same axle at the same time.
Also, MOT may not show it up if braking is still effective.
Next time, after a drive, feel each of the wheels to see if one of them is hotter than the others. That's the the sure sign of a caliper binding, causing the brake on that corner to heat up even if you aren't using it.
I had front pads and rotors replaced on mine without any issues reported and still had a seized caliper a few months later. So then had to replace them all over again
Makes sense if you have one to do at least both on the same axle at the same time.
Also, MOT may not show it up if braking is still effective.
Edited by FurtiveFreddy on Thursday 2nd February 14:43
No the whole wheel rim will be warmer if it's seizing like mine was.
Brake rotor heats up while car is moving and transfers heat to rim.
Depends on how badly it's seized of course, so it's not a definitive test.
You could also try parking on a very slight incline and see if the car rolls easily with the brakes off, or just see if you can push it on the flat without much effort. Or jack it up and try spinning each wheel.
Brake rotor heats up while car is moving and transfers heat to rim.
Depends on how badly it's seized of course, so it's not a definitive test.
You could also try parking on a very slight incline and see if the car rolls easily with the brakes off, or just see if you can push it on the flat without much effort. Or jack it up and try spinning each wheel.
Retracting the partially seized caliper piston back into its bore whilst fitting new pads/discs is sometimes the catalyst for for it to seize altogether. It'll be obvious if it is seized, as FF said, one wheel will be hotter than the others (and in this weather that often manifests as one dry wheel and three wet ones). It's a quick easy thing to establish before going down the worn suspension bush route.
Seized caloip[ers are caused by running the pads down to the minimum. The piston is too far out, moisture corrodes it and it's buggered. Sometimes a shot of WD40 behind the dust boot and some exercise with gas pliers and the brake pedal gets them going again, but replacing the pads when they're down to 10mm prevents that.
iSore said:
Seized calipers are caused by running the pads down to the minimum. The piston is too far out, moisture corrodes it and it's buggered. Sometimes a shot of WD40 behind the dust boot and some exercise with gas pliers and the brake pedal gets them going again, but replacing the pads when they're down to 10mm prevents that.
Seized calipers are frequently caused by split dust seals allowing water and contaminates into the piston/caliper bore. The damaged dust seal is often the result of some monkey with a gas pliers trying to exercise the piston to get it back into the caliper, rather than using the proper tool ..... 
iSore said:
Seized caloip[ers are caused by running the pads down to the minimum. The piston is too far out, moisture corrodes it and it's buggered. Sometimes a shot of WD40 behind the dust boot and some exercise with gas pliers and the brake pedal gets them going again, but replacing the pads when they're down to 10mm prevents that.
Replace the pads at 10mm when they're probably only about 1/2 worn? I don't think so.
t pads/discs have been fitted.Thanks for the replies. 40mins motorway journey last night and this morning. At the end of both journeys all 4 wheels were the same temp.
On the journey this morning I was paying more attention to when it occurs and can now confirm it's not occurring at start up, I didn't start to notice it for about 10 miles. Weirdly 20mins later after some braking in slowish (50mph) moving motorway traffic it went away again.
Not sure if I can hear metal on metal which is different to the norm.
Don't think it's caused by poor pads or discs because I've had this before and now after a front disc and pad change.
On the journey this morning I was paying more attention to when it occurs and can now confirm it's not occurring at start up, I didn't start to notice it for about 10 miles. Weirdly 20mins later after some braking in slowish (50mph) moving motorway traffic it went away again.
Not sure if I can hear metal on metal which is different to the norm.
Don't think it's caused by poor pads or discs because I've had this before and now after a front disc and pad change.
That still sounds like it could be a seizing caliper. It could just be good some of the time and bad other times. If it is that it will only get worse though.
If discs were warped or there was some pickup from the pads on them, you would feel it all the time.
If it's caused by loose or worn suspension components, the MOT should find it.
If discs were warped or there was some pickup from the pads on them, you would feel it all the time.
If it's caused by loose or worn suspension components, the MOT should find it.
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