F10 wheel wobble help
Discussion
Hoping someone may have some ideas to help with an issue I have.
Got an F10 a few weeks ago and although I'm very happy with it, the 18" wheels it came with looked pathetic, so I changed them for some 20's.
I had brand new Falken tyres fitted to the wheels (also brand new) but I have a wobble, not so much through the steering wheel, but more from the back of the car from 50 onwards and it's driving me mad.
Have had them balanced twice, only as recently as yesterday, tyre guy said they'll settle down but I don't believe this to be correct, we just cannot seem to iron out the vibration and it's making for a poor driving experience.
The wheels are 5 x 120 so the correct PCD, the offset of the front is ET33 and rears ET38, 8.5 inch wheel at the front and 9.5 inch wheel at the back, they fit nicely, no rubbing, tyres are 245/35/20 and 275/30/20, anyone have any ideas what the issue may be? it might be glaringly obvious to some (hopefully) really don't want to go back to the 18's
Got an F10 a few weeks ago and although I'm very happy with it, the 18" wheels it came with looked pathetic, so I changed them for some 20's.
I had brand new Falken tyres fitted to the wheels (also brand new) but I have a wobble, not so much through the steering wheel, but more from the back of the car from 50 onwards and it's driving me mad.
Have had them balanced twice, only as recently as yesterday, tyre guy said they'll settle down but I don't believe this to be correct, we just cannot seem to iron out the vibration and it's making for a poor driving experience.
The wheels are 5 x 120 so the correct PCD, the offset of the front is ET33 and rears ET38, 8.5 inch wheel at the front and 9.5 inch wheel at the back, they fit nicely, no rubbing, tyres are 245/35/20 and 275/30/20, anyone have any ideas what the issue may be? it might be glaringly obvious to some (hopefully) really don't want to go back to the 18's

Check the tyre pressures and check the wheels have been fitted properly - the wheel nuts need to be tightened & torqued (properly, not the apprentice with the nut gun set to 11) across the "diagonals" of the star, not sequentially round the circle; so 1 3 5 2 4, not 1 2 3 4 5.
Then get 4 wheel alignment done as the toe in, caster and camber angles will be magnified by the additional wheel diameter and the tyre contact area reduced. Not by much but potentially enough to make a difference.
Then check the rear brake pistons aren't binding on
Then hand a large amount of money to a dealer and enjoy your cappuccino...
Then get 4 wheel alignment done as the toe in, caster and camber angles will be magnified by the additional wheel diameter and the tyre contact area reduced. Not by much but potentially enough to make a difference.
Then check the rear brake pistons aren't binding on
Then hand a large amount of money to a dealer and enjoy your cappuccino...
100% will be wheel balancing, or a poor tyre.
I know people rave about falkens but they really aren't great especially from a manufacturing point of view, more ofthen that not they have "issues" - on smaller wheels will never be felt - larger ones, yes.
Find a place that does hunter road force balancing.
Dont bother with anyone else - youll be wasting your time.
You need the GSP9700
Actually when you say you got 20s - are they new? genuine OEM wheels etc. they can also be the issue.
Assuming before you fitted the 20s you had no issues with the 18s
I know people rave about falkens but they really aren't great especially from a manufacturing point of view, more ofthen that not they have "issues" - on smaller wheels will never be felt - larger ones, yes.
Find a place that does hunter road force balancing.
Dont bother with anyone else - youll be wasting your time.
You need the GSP9700
Actually when you say you got 20s - are they new? genuine OEM wheels etc. they can also be the issue.
Assuming before you fitted the 20s you had no issues with the 18s
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