Restoring an E39.
Discussion
Hi
We've had an old E39 528i SE for about 14 years now in the family and are hoping to restore it sometime in the future. Possibly no expense spared here, want it in meticulous working order.
It ran well till the last few years. It was running without a speedometer for too long. Had many cooling system overhauls. ABS light has been on for a very long time. Quite a few scuffs and some rust so a potential full respray. Engine had a slight leak and also smoked a bit. Lumpy idle too. 18" style 42's would need to be done. New exterior trim and headlights. Basically want it to be as new and drive as new. Currently on 160,000 but should be showing 190,000 to 210,000 (not sure!).
It has been standing for about 6-8 months now as a new car is in the household.
How much would this be?
We've had an old E39 528i SE for about 14 years now in the family and are hoping to restore it sometime in the future. Possibly no expense spared here, want it in meticulous working order.
It ran well till the last few years. It was running without a speedometer for too long. Had many cooling system overhauls. ABS light has been on for a very long time. Quite a few scuffs and some rust so a potential full respray. Engine had a slight leak and also smoked a bit. Lumpy idle too. 18" style 42's would need to be done. New exterior trim and headlights. Basically want it to be as new and drive as new. Currently on 160,000 but should be showing 190,000 to 210,000 (not sure!).
It has been standing for about 6-8 months now as a new car is in the household.
How much would this be?
I'm bringing life back into a 528i Sport myself!
Bodywork:
- I am having both side sills resprayed - one side needs welding
- Boot lid resprayed and spoiler refitted - previous owner removed
- New front bumper fitted and sprayed along with passenger wings being painted
All of this is coming to the region of £1700 ish
Engine:
- New CCV (usually fail) £400
- New cooling system £400 ish
- ABS module repair - speedo stopped working £200
Chassis:
- Rear corroded brake pipes and rear pads - £450 ish
Other areas of note would be:
- auto box fluid renewed (cost me £400)
Those are the only costs I have so far - you'd probably need some of the work doing to yours; so a rough idea (using independent specialist)
Total so far: Approx £3500
Bodywork:
- I am having both side sills resprayed - one side needs welding
- Boot lid resprayed and spoiler refitted - previous owner removed
- New front bumper fitted and sprayed along with passenger wings being painted
All of this is coming to the region of £1700 ish
Engine:
- New CCV (usually fail) £400
- New cooling system £400 ish
- ABS module repair - speedo stopped working £200
Chassis:
- Rear corroded brake pipes and rear pads - £450 ish
Other areas of note would be:
- auto box fluid renewed (cost me £400)
Those are the only costs I have so far - you'd probably need some of the work doing to yours; so a rough idea (using independent specialist)
Total so far: Approx £3500
Speedo not working and abs light on = wheel speed sensor...or more likely an ABS ecu failure.
I lightly restored an m-sport e39, the bills went on and on and on...
One day it was perfect - so I cut my losses and sold it, making back all the money i'd spent on it..
Rot was the one thing which concerned me, mechanically and electrically they are pretty simple - but rot can make an e39 an uneconomical proposition so I would get that checked out first prior to committing.
Look for rot in :-
Jacking points (remove the covers and look inside the sill)
rear valance
boot lid
sills
rear arches
I lightly restored an m-sport e39, the bills went on and on and on...
One day it was perfect - so I cut my losses and sold it, making back all the money i'd spent on it..
Rot was the one thing which concerned me, mechanically and electrically they are pretty simple - but rot can make an e39 an uneconomical proposition so I would get that checked out first prior to committing.
Look for rot in :-
Jacking points (remove the covers and look inside the sill)
rear valance
boot lid
sills
rear arches
We really like the car and have had it for a very long time so would possibly keep it for much longer, so no expense will be spared here. It will cost a lot, but it doesn't matter, as its such a great car.
There is the possibility of it being an OEM+ restoration where we would put in fully electric seats, heated seats, other options that can be retrofitted. It will be perfect, hopefully.
There is the possibility of it being an OEM+ restoration where we would put in fully electric seats, heated seats, other options that can be retrofitted. It will be perfect, hopefully.
rayyan171 said:
Would you not want to do suspension bushings, replace all things rubber etc so that the car drives as it should have, or should it be ok? I'm not sure how the suspension has fared after all those years of potholes and I would like it to drive as new.
At that mileage - and if it's not already been done - then all the dampers, top mounts, arms and bushes will definitely need replacing. Add to that list sub-frame bushes, propshaft guibo etc. etc. It's hard to know where to stop. Look back through the car's history to see if there's evidence of recent work in the above areas, because if there isn't you could easily spunk £2k on it. That's a very conservative estimate using non-BMW but good OE parts from Lemforder and Sachs etc, and a cheap indy garage to do the work.Also, if it's an auto then you really need to consider seriously the condition of the gearbox. A manual car would be a far better proposition for a complete rebuild since an auto box on an E39 at that mileage will be on borrowed time.
Great cars (I've got two) but they can unleash a savage assault on your wallet in a short space of time, and then 'nickel & dime' you to death in the long term.
Think carefully about the viability of this project. 'Man maths' can seriously lead you astray!
Hi,
Good points so far !
I'd also suggest to carefully evaluate the overall project as every now and again an original standard early E39 will come up and of those, 528i's are ones which show up quite often. Here's one, with just 16,000 miles
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...
In late 1996, I helped a friend of the family out and test drove a demo 528i from the Reading Dealership. A couple hours later the car was purchased. It's still with the family today and I 'think' it's around 50-60K miles now. It'd need an overhaul for sure body and mechanically, but it drives well and is only perhaps 15-20% body damaged. Underneath, where rust can attack is the concerning aspect really for all E39's.
If it will turn into a comprehensive restoration project due to sentiment with the car, then as already mentioned, it'll cost substantial amounts to do properly and well. Of course, mates rates will help if you know anyone willing to provide those to you, lots of searching on ebay for potential part bargains etc as well. For the potential layout of money;
1. Do that manual gearbox conversion - if you keep the Auto, then when it does fail, it's around £1600-2500 to recondition it.
2. Check for underbody rust and rot and treat that accordingly.
3. Lightly uprate the engine - I know there's a few things you can do with the 528i engine - searches over the forums will help here.
4. Modernise various aspects - better brake disks/pads, new high quality aftermarket suspension (H&R, Eibach etc), better full system exhaust, facelift headlights and rear lamp clusters, audio/multimedia setup etc.
5. Do those OEM+ type retrofits - heated E38 Sport Contour seats, black Sport headliner, M5 leather interior/full or extended leather, double glazing etc etc
6. Choice to make the bodywork look like a later facelift E39 Sport model or give it the Alpina look that's based on the SE spec/looks, or just keep it totally early SE looks only.
Personally, if I was doing this, I'd go quite a bit further with modifications such as 19/20 inch wheels, sports brakes/BBK, put in the later facelift 3 litre engine and either lightly modify it or go Supercharger and a whole host of mods I've done to my current E39 but I do know many BMW owners don't like going to this kind of level. With each aspect of the car, there's plenty of choices, for instance a mid term future project for me is to do a Bi Xenon conversion for the headlamps using replacement F10 spec Xenon projector units and coilover suspension.
I think money wise, you'd be looking very close to if not more than the asking price of £9K for that ultra low miler I posted above. I think the actual selling price of it will be lower so maybe give the guy a call and see if you can strike a deal?
Will be interesting to see the direction you go so good luck with everything and keep this updated! Also take a look over on the excellent UK centric 5 series forum http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/ where there's a lot of very knowledgeable members indeed!
Cheers, Dennis!
Good points so far !
I'd also suggest to carefully evaluate the overall project as every now and again an original standard early E39 will come up and of those, 528i's are ones which show up quite often. Here's one, with just 16,000 miles
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...
In late 1996, I helped a friend of the family out and test drove a demo 528i from the Reading Dealership. A couple hours later the car was purchased. It's still with the family today and I 'think' it's around 50-60K miles now. It'd need an overhaul for sure body and mechanically, but it drives well and is only perhaps 15-20% body damaged. Underneath, where rust can attack is the concerning aspect really for all E39's.
If it will turn into a comprehensive restoration project due to sentiment with the car, then as already mentioned, it'll cost substantial amounts to do properly and well. Of course, mates rates will help if you know anyone willing to provide those to you, lots of searching on ebay for potential part bargains etc as well. For the potential layout of money;
1. Do that manual gearbox conversion - if you keep the Auto, then when it does fail, it's around £1600-2500 to recondition it.
2. Check for underbody rust and rot and treat that accordingly.
3. Lightly uprate the engine - I know there's a few things you can do with the 528i engine - searches over the forums will help here.
4. Modernise various aspects - better brake disks/pads, new high quality aftermarket suspension (H&R, Eibach etc), better full system exhaust, facelift headlights and rear lamp clusters, audio/multimedia setup etc.
5. Do those OEM+ type retrofits - heated E38 Sport Contour seats, black Sport headliner, M5 leather interior/full or extended leather, double glazing etc etc
6. Choice to make the bodywork look like a later facelift E39 Sport model or give it the Alpina look that's based on the SE spec/looks, or just keep it totally early SE looks only.
Personally, if I was doing this, I'd go quite a bit further with modifications such as 19/20 inch wheels, sports brakes/BBK, put in the later facelift 3 litre engine and either lightly modify it or go Supercharger and a whole host of mods I've done to my current E39 but I do know many BMW owners don't like going to this kind of level. With each aspect of the car, there's plenty of choices, for instance a mid term future project for me is to do a Bi Xenon conversion for the headlamps using replacement F10 spec Xenon projector units and coilover suspension.
I think money wise, you'd be looking very close to if not more than the asking price of £9K for that ultra low miler I posted above. I think the actual selling price of it will be lower so maybe give the guy a call and see if you can strike a deal?
Will be interesting to see the direction you go so good luck with everything and keep this updated! Also take a look over on the excellent UK centric 5 series forum http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/ where there's a lot of very knowledgeable members indeed!
Cheers, Dennis!
Depthhoar said:
rayyan171 said:
Would you not want to do suspension bushings, replace all things rubber etc so that the car drives as it should have, or should it be ok? I'm not sure how the suspension has fared after all those years of potholes and I would like it to drive as new.
At that mileage - and if it's not already been done - then all the dampers, top mounts, arms and bushes will definitely need replacing. Add to that list sub-frame bushes, propshaft guibo etc. etc. It's hard to know where to stop. Look back through the car's history to see if there's evidence of recent work in the above areas, because if there isn't you could easily spunk £2k on it. That's a very conservative estimate using non-BMW but good OE parts from Lemforder and Sachs etc, and a cheap indy garage to do the work.Also, if it's an auto then you really need to consider seriously the condition of the gearbox. A manual car would be a far better proposition for a complete rebuild since an auto box on an E39 at that mileage will be on borrowed time.
Great cars (I've got two) but they can unleash a savage assault on your wallet in a short space of time, and then 'nickel & dime' you to death in the long term.
Think carefully about the viability of this project. 'Man maths' can seriously lead you astray!
Basically, the car was 3 years old when bought so all the service history is with us - guaranteed! Especially as it was an ex lease car, bought then from BMW.
It's got a reasonable spec - SE, style 42 18" and most importantly a manual so it seems that it should be restored.
I basically want to bring it back up to how it would have left the showroom and how it would have driven then. This car means a lot as it's the reason I like cars myself, it made me like them.
DennisCooper said:
Hi,
Good points so far !
I'd also suggest to carefully evaluate the overall project as every now and again an original standard early E39 will come up and of those, 528i's are ones which show up quite often. Here's one, with just 16,000 miles
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...
In late 1996, I helped a friend of the family out and test drove a demo 528i from the Reading Dealership. A couple hours later the car was purchased. It's still with the family today and I 'think' it's around 50-60K miles now. It'd need an overhaul for sure body and mechanically, but it drives well and is only perhaps 15-20% body damaged. Underneath, where rust can attack is the concerning aspect really for all E39's.
If it will turn into a comprehensive restoration project due to sentiment with the car, then as already mentioned, it'll cost substantial amounts to do properly and well. Of course, mates rates will help if you know anyone willing to provide those to you, lots of searching on ebay for potential part bargains etc as well. For the potential layout of money;
1. Do that manual gearbox conversion - if you keep the Auto, then when it does fail, it's around £1600-2500 to recondition it.
2. Check for underbody rust and rot and treat that accordingly.
3. Lightly uprate the engine - I know there's a few things you can do with the 528i engine - searches over the forums will help here.
4. Modernise various aspects - better brake disks/pads, new high quality aftermarket suspension (H&R, Eibach etc), better full system exhaust, facelift headlights and rear lamp clusters, audio/multimedia setup etc.
5. Do those OEM+ type retrofits - heated E38 Sport Contour seats, black Sport headliner, M5 leather interior/full or extended leather, double glazing etc etc
6. Choice to make the bodywork look like a later facelift E39 Sport model or give it the Alpina look that's based on the SE spec/looks, or just keep it totally early SE looks only.
Personally, if I was doing this, I'd go quite a bit further with modifications such as 19/20 inch wheels, sports brakes/BBK, put in the later facelift 3 litre engine and either lightly modify it or go Supercharger and a whole host of mods I've done to my current E39 but I do know many BMW owners don't like going to this kind of level. With each aspect of the car, there's plenty of choices, for instance a mid term future project for me is to do a Bi Xenon conversion for the headlamps using replacement F10 spec Xenon projector units and coilover suspension.
I think money wise, you'd be looking very close to if not more than the asking price of £9K for that ultra low miler I posted above. I think the actual selling price of it will be lower so maybe give the guy a call and see if you can strike a deal?
Will be interesting to see the direction you go so good luck with everything and keep this updated! Also take a look over on the excellent UK centric 5 series forum http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/ where there's a lot of very knowledgeable members indeed!
Cheers, Dennis!
Thanks for those points, it's very interesting what further things can be done with this car. Good points so far !
I'd also suggest to carefully evaluate the overall project as every now and again an original standard early E39 will come up and of those, 528i's are ones which show up quite often. Here's one, with just 16,000 miles
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...
In late 1996, I helped a friend of the family out and test drove a demo 528i from the Reading Dealership. A couple hours later the car was purchased. It's still with the family today and I 'think' it's around 50-60K miles now. It'd need an overhaul for sure body and mechanically, but it drives well and is only perhaps 15-20% body damaged. Underneath, where rust can attack is the concerning aspect really for all E39's.
If it will turn into a comprehensive restoration project due to sentiment with the car, then as already mentioned, it'll cost substantial amounts to do properly and well. Of course, mates rates will help if you know anyone willing to provide those to you, lots of searching on ebay for potential part bargains etc as well. For the potential layout of money;
1. Do that manual gearbox conversion - if you keep the Auto, then when it does fail, it's around £1600-2500 to recondition it.
2. Check for underbody rust and rot and treat that accordingly.
3. Lightly uprate the engine - I know there's a few things you can do with the 528i engine - searches over the forums will help here.
4. Modernise various aspects - better brake disks/pads, new high quality aftermarket suspension (H&R, Eibach etc), better full system exhaust, facelift headlights and rear lamp clusters, audio/multimedia setup etc.
5. Do those OEM+ type retrofits - heated E38 Sport Contour seats, black Sport headliner, M5 leather interior/full or extended leather, double glazing etc etc
6. Choice to make the bodywork look like a later facelift E39 Sport model or give it the Alpina look that's based on the SE spec/looks, or just keep it totally early SE looks only.
Personally, if I was doing this, I'd go quite a bit further with modifications such as 19/20 inch wheels, sports brakes/BBK, put in the later facelift 3 litre engine and either lightly modify it or go Supercharger and a whole host of mods I've done to my current E39 but I do know many BMW owners don't like going to this kind of level. With each aspect of the car, there's plenty of choices, for instance a mid term future project for me is to do a Bi Xenon conversion for the headlamps using replacement F10 spec Xenon projector units and coilover suspension.
I think money wise, you'd be looking very close to if not more than the asking price of £9K for that ultra low miler I posted above. I think the actual selling price of it will be lower so maybe give the guy a call and see if you can strike a deal?
Will be interesting to see the direction you go so good luck with everything and keep this updated! Also take a look over on the excellent UK centric 5 series forum http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/ where there's a lot of very knowledgeable members indeed!
Cheers, Dennis!
Just to answer some things you raised, the car is a manual and so will be kept that way. There's a reservoir for atf fluid in the engine bay but I believe the gearbox is oiled by a different way as it's manual? Or am I wrong...
I like the idea of modernising. Great idea for doing it to suspension, exhaust, brakes etc but the car is pre facelift so would it be better to keep it pre facelift? (Original lights, orange rear lights etc). I may keep it SE look however the headlights have a dreadful beam and would be tempting to change to facelift lights front and back which had LED's and halo lights in the front as well as Xenon's.
The wheels are rare being style 42 18" and so would be a good idea to refurbish them and keep them in good nick.
The sound system is dreadful so that may be done too so that it's higher quality at the very least.
You raised some very good points, thanks for this advice. This will be a very long project if it goes ahead as I have lots of other life commitments but I'll have to see what happens.
Cheers.
Ah, a manual! Certainly makes more sense as a full restoration prospect than an auto.
Well worth overhauling the bushes etc on the gear change linkage, too. Although the gear change on these manuals isn't the swiftest, snickiest you can improve the precision of it quite a lot by refreshing the wear-prone parts of the linkage. Best done when the exhaust, heat shields etc are off. Basically, in the diagram below, change parts 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13 & 17
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Makes a noticeable improvement.
Also, there's a shaft seal where the linkage enters/exits the gearbox casing that's worth swapping out: #8 in the diagram below.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Well worth overhauling the bushes etc on the gear change linkage, too. Although the gear change on these manuals isn't the swiftest, snickiest you can improve the precision of it quite a lot by refreshing the wear-prone parts of the linkage. Best done when the exhaust, heat shields etc are off. Basically, in the diagram below, change parts 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13 & 17
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Makes a noticeable improvement.
Also, there's a shaft seal where the linkage enters/exits the gearbox casing that's worth swapping out: #8 in the diagram below.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Depthhoar said:
Ah, a manual! Certainly makes more sense as a full restoration prospect than an auto.
Well worth overhauling the bushes etc on the gear change linkage, too. Although the gear change on these manuals isn't the swiftest, snickiest you can improve the precision of it quite a lot by refreshing the wear-prone parts of the linkage. Best done when the exhaust, heat shields etc are off. Basically, in the diagram below, change parts 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13 & 17
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Makes a noticeable improvement.
Also, there's a shaft seal where the linkage enters/exits the gearbox casing that's worth swapping out: #8 in the diagram below.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Cheers for that, quite helpful actually. I've only just discovered RealOEM, don't know why I don't use it enough!Well worth overhauling the bushes etc on the gear change linkage, too. Although the gear change on these manuals isn't the swiftest, snickiest you can improve the precision of it quite a lot by refreshing the wear-prone parts of the linkage. Best done when the exhaust, heat shields etc are off. Basically, in the diagram below, change parts 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13 & 17
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
Makes a noticeable improvement.
Also, there's a shaft seal where the linkage enters/exits the gearbox casing that's worth swapping out: #8 in the diagram below.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-...
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