N54 Injector Replacement issues
Discussion
Hello all,
I wonder if anyone can feed in on this... I realise there's probably other topics similar to this but I couldn't find one with my specific issue.
So some months ago the Z4 (e89 N54, 35i, DCT) started running a little rough eventually developing an intermittent misfire and sure enough when taken to the dealers, six new injectors went in (paid warranty).
Since then on cold starts the car has felt hesitant and at times D1>D2 and D2>D3 have felt lumpy until perhaps a mile or two has been travelled.
I've run it like this for several weeks hoping it was just a new part run in thing, but it clearly isn't. Googling suggested a possibility of missing injector decouplers when the new injectors went in but that would require me to take the car back to the dealer for what is a change in 'feel' to me rather than something broken.
Has anyone else had injectors replaced and had similar hesitancy at cold start?
I wonder if anyone can feed in on this... I realise there's probably other topics similar to this but I couldn't find one with my specific issue.
So some months ago the Z4 (e89 N54, 35i, DCT) started running a little rough eventually developing an intermittent misfire and sure enough when taken to the dealers, six new injectors went in (paid warranty).
Since then on cold starts the car has felt hesitant and at times D1>D2 and D2>D3 have felt lumpy until perhaps a mile or two has been travelled.
I've run it like this for several weeks hoping it was just a new part run in thing, but it clearly isn't. Googling suggested a possibility of missing injector decouplers when the new injectors went in but that would require me to take the car back to the dealer for what is a change in 'feel' to me rather than something broken.
Has anyone else had injectors replaced and had similar hesitancy at cold start?
Only thing that occurs to me is possible fuel quality issue. What do you put in the tank? I used to get occasional lumpy running/idling when I first used supermarket fuel, but since using Shell V-Power I've not had any issues. Otherwise get yourself a can of BMW's fuel additive every 3-6 months depending on how much mileage you do. Also keeps the fuel pump happy.
However, I don't think I would waste any more time, and just get the car back to the dealer pronto stating the previous work has still not resulted in a satisfactory repair.
However, I don't think I would waste any more time, and just get the car back to the dealer pronto stating the previous work has still not resulted in a satisfactory repair.
sparks were done about 4 months ago as a main service. Its not been walnut blasted yet and I suspect that will be part of the sluggishness when cold given the car is used for mainly very short runs.
The difference is marked since the injector changes. What pulled quite well with a static pedal at cold now just sticks at a specific speed unless more pedal is applied and even then it feels like the mixture is too lean and it starves for a second or so before a lumpy gear change. All used to be very smooth.
After 5 mins driving, its much improved.
The difference is marked since the injector changes. What pulled quite well with a static pedal at cold now just sticks at a specific speed unless more pedal is applied and even then it feels like the mixture is too lean and it starves for a second or so before a lumpy gear change. All used to be very smooth.
After 5 mins driving, its much improved.
I would get it walnut blasted as a starting point and then go from there. It certainly made my N54 a lot smoother when cold, I also had issues caused by the low pressure fuel sensor. It's meant to be changed when you have a new HPFP but most of the time it gets left.
Have you had it read for any codes?
Have you had it read for any codes?
No. I think a visit back to the dealer has to be first. It ran fine before the misfire and the injector replacement. It has to be related to their works.
Hate stuff like this though as it’s hard to demonstrate.
Having said that I set off in sport mode from cold and it’s bunny hop city so that’s probably the best way to demo this.
Really frustrating and makes me want to get rid after all the years of issues and hard work keeping it so.
By far the most problematic car ever and the one I’ve held onto longest. Go figure.
Hate stuff like this though as it’s hard to demonstrate.
Having said that I set off in sport mode from cold and it’s bunny hop city so that’s probably the best way to demo this.
Really frustrating and makes me want to get rid after all the years of issues and hard work keeping it so.
By far the most problematic car ever and the one I’ve held onto longest. Go figure.
These are common N54 issues, but fortunately can be resolved with some patience and a bit of reading (if you don't want to rely on the dealers).
First thing is to throw it back to the dealer and let them spend time on it if it's worse than it was. They should have enough experience with this engine by now.
There are a few weaknesses, but all easily solvable (one of which is the oil ingestion into the intake, due to the direct injection and other factors), but most of these can be cured. I'm going through that process now.
Get the intake cleaned (if you don't upgrade parts to stop it occurring you can expect to have to do this every 30-40k)
I am adding an oil catch can, getting rid of every bit of plastic on the intake/inlet side (replacing with VRSF inlets for example), as any air leaks will cause problems and this will occur as the car gets older and older.
I'm upgrading the FMIC (the OEM also has plastic end caps), adding new intake cones, new vac lines, an upgraded PCV valve, turbosmart to replace the aging diverter valves, and an alloy chargepipe. I'm also changing the sparks to NGK (1 step cooler) and having them gapped to the recommended 0.22".
It is an investment but well worth it (imho). If done smart, you can manage for ~£1500 plus a day to fit everything. Other consumables are coils but that's expected and more than cheap enough to source on ebay or amazon - and super easy to change as they sit on top of the spark plugs.
After this is all done it should run rock solid for years to come (hopefully).
First thing is to throw it back to the dealer and let them spend time on it if it's worse than it was. They should have enough experience with this engine by now.
There are a few weaknesses, but all easily solvable (one of which is the oil ingestion into the intake, due to the direct injection and other factors), but most of these can be cured. I'm going through that process now.
Get the intake cleaned (if you don't upgrade parts to stop it occurring you can expect to have to do this every 30-40k)
I am adding an oil catch can, getting rid of every bit of plastic on the intake/inlet side (replacing with VRSF inlets for example), as any air leaks will cause problems and this will occur as the car gets older and older.
I'm upgrading the FMIC (the OEM also has plastic end caps), adding new intake cones, new vac lines, an upgraded PCV valve, turbosmart to replace the aging diverter valves, and an alloy chargepipe. I'm also changing the sparks to NGK (1 step cooler) and having them gapped to the recommended 0.22".
It is an investment but well worth it (imho). If done smart, you can manage for ~£1500 plus a day to fit everything. Other consumables are coils but that's expected and more than cheap enough to source on ebay or amazon - and super easy to change as they sit on top of the spark plugs.
After this is all done it should run rock solid for years to come (hopefully).
stuart-b said:
These are common N54 issues, but fortunately can be resolved with some patience and a bit of reading (if you don't want to rely on the dealers).
First thing is to throw it back to the dealer and let them spend time on it if it's worse than it was. They should have enough experience with this engine by now.
There are a few weaknesses, but all easily solvable (one of which is the oil ingestion into the intake, due to the direct injection and other factors), but most of these can be cured. I'm going through that process now.
Get the intake cleaned (if you don't upgrade parts to stop it occurring you can expect to have to do this every 30-40k)
I am adding an oil catch can, getting rid of every bit of plastic on the intake/inlet side (replacing with VRSF inlets for example), as any air leaks will cause problems and this will occur as the car gets older and older.
I'm upgrading the FMIC (the OEM also has plastic end caps), adding new intake cones, new vac lines, an upgraded PCV valve, turbosmart to replace the aging diverter valves, and an alloy chargepipe. I'm also changing the sparks to NGK (1 step cooler) and having them gapped to the recommended 0.22".
It is an investment but well worth it (imho). If done smart, you can manage for ~£1500 plus a day to fit everything. Other consumables are coils but that's expected and more than cheap enough to source on ebay or amazon - and super easy to change as they sit on top of the spark plugs.
After this is all done it should run rock solid for years to come (hopefully).
Ah hello Stu! How is life over there? It looks warmer than here!First thing is to throw it back to the dealer and let them spend time on it if it's worse than it was. They should have enough experience with this engine by now.
There are a few weaknesses, but all easily solvable (one of which is the oil ingestion into the intake, due to the direct injection and other factors), but most of these can be cured. I'm going through that process now.
Get the intake cleaned (if you don't upgrade parts to stop it occurring you can expect to have to do this every 30-40k)
I am adding an oil catch can, getting rid of every bit of plastic on the intake/inlet side (replacing with VRSF inlets for example), as any air leaks will cause problems and this will occur as the car gets older and older.
I'm upgrading the FMIC (the OEM also has plastic end caps), adding new intake cones, new vac lines, an upgraded PCV valve, turbosmart to replace the aging diverter valves, and an alloy chargepipe. I'm also changing the sparks to NGK (1 step cooler) and having them gapped to the recommended 0.22".
It is an investment but well worth it (imho). If done smart, you can manage for ~£1500 plus a day to fit everything. Other consumables are coils but that's expected and more than cheap enough to source on ebay or amazon - and super easy to change as they sit on top of the spark plugs.
After this is all done it should run rock solid for years to come (hopefully).
It's interesting to hear you are putting in a catch can. I did think about this for DI engines. Do you plan to have a catch can in line on yout breather or simply open to atmosphere.
I've been having problems with a MINI with the BMW Prince engine (same as F20 1 Series). It's been decoked, timing chain replaced and checked but the thing just ran like a dog. Tipped a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank and it's made a massive improvement - it's gone from being a horrid misfiring heap with dreadful power delivery into a proper car again. I used Forte stuff, about 15 quid.
It'd done 50k btw.
It'd done 50k btw.
Edited by iSore on Thursday 14th December 13:56
Edited by iSore on Thursday 14th December 13:56
iSore said:
I've been having problems with a MINI with the BMW Prince engine (same as F20 1 Series). It's been decoked, timing chain replaced and checked but the thing just ran like a dog. Tipped a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank and it's made a massive improvement - it's gone from being a horrid misfiring heap with dreadful power delivery into a proper car again. I used Forte stuff, about 15 quid.
It'd done 50k btw.
What fuel do you normally use?It'd done 50k btw.
iSore said:
Spoke too soon. The POS pretty much broke down today, EML light on, running on 2 or 3 and juuuuuust about made it 50 yards back home.
Gave it an hour and it's fine again albeit with EML and the other £££££ signs on the dash. Utter shyte.
FWIW both my E36 323i and my E46 M3 ran way better on V-Power. OK they're not DI but I was surprised. In some ways the 323i surprised me. It had a massive flat spot when pulling way which completely went with V-Power.Gave it an hour and it's fine again albeit with EML and the other £££££ signs on the dash. Utter shyte.
As for my M3. That pinked at very low RPM (i.e town work) on 95. There is a caveat to that ; I did fill up at a self owned Texaco in Wales on that tank ; I did it as an method of ensuring I didn't run out. I'm sure I've put 95 in previously or Sainsburys 97 (yes I know....) and it's been fine.
A friend of mine on an N52 engined E89 noticed the same thing ; he previously had an incurable misfire when initially started.
I'd offer INPA to yourself if you were nearby but my lead only works with pre-07 stuff.
SebringMan said:
FWIW both my E36 323i and my E46 M3 ran way better on V-Power. OK they're not DI but I was surprised. In some ways the 323i surprised me. It had a massive flat spot when pulling way which completely went with V-Power.
As for my M3. That pinked at very low RPM (i.e town work) on 95. There is a caveat to that ; I did fill up at a self owned Texaco in Wales on that tank ; I did it as an method of ensuring I didn't run out. I'm sure I've put 95 in previously or Sainsburys 97 (yes I know....) and it's been fine.
A friend of mine on an N52 engined E89 noticed the same thing ; he previously had an incurable misfire when initially started.
I'd offer INPA to yourself if you were nearby but my lead only works with pre-07 stuff.
Cheers - it's going in to be scanned tomorrow and into the garage on Friday to be left - 'ring me when it's fixed'! They're a nasty, nasty engine and whilst it's fashionable to call it a Peugeot unit, in reality it isn't. PSA just use it and suffer the same old BMW four cylinder problems.As for my M3. That pinked at very low RPM (i.e town work) on 95. There is a caveat to that ; I did fill up at a self owned Texaco in Wales on that tank ; I did it as an method of ensuring I didn't run out. I'm sure I've put 95 in previously or Sainsburys 97 (yes I know....) and it's been fine.
A friend of mine on an N52 engined E89 noticed the same thing ; he previously had an incurable misfire when initially started.
I'd offer INPA to yourself if you were nearby but my lead only works with pre-07 stuff.
iSore said:
Cheers - it's going in to be scanned tomorrow and into the garage on Friday to be left - 'ring me when it's fixed'! They're a nasty, nasty engine and whilst it's fashionable to call it a Peugeot unit, in reality it isn't. PSA just use it and suffer the same old BMW four cylinder problems.
Good luck OP! 
That's why I'm glad my E86 has the N52 engine!
It will have the electronic water pump disaster at some point, but no injector or HPFP nonsense to deal with!
See you on the "other" forum.
I hope your problem isn't too painful.
Mr Tidy said:
Good luck OP!
That's why I'm glad my E86 has the N52 engine!
It will have the electronic water pump disaster at some point, but no injector or HPFP nonsense to deal with!
See you on the "other" forum.
I hope your problem isn't too painful.
It's looking like the HPFP to be honest; it ran very rough this morning, cleared quickly but it's never been 'right' and always feels under fuelled. Garage are going to have it hooked up to diags tomorrow morning and try and capture some live data from a cold start. HPFP is a 700 quid part. Could still be injectors but they're 600 quid a set. This D.I stuff is expensive junk - you can keep it.That's why I'm glad my E86 has the N52 engine!
It will have the electronic water pump disaster at some point, but no injector or HPFP nonsense to deal with!
See you on the "other" forum.
I hope your problem isn't too painful.
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