Closing the boot, when replacing the battery.....ooops....
Discussion
Changed the battery on my E92 M3 over the weekend.
A really fiddly and aggravating process, with so little space to work in.
So when it started to rain, I thought “Sod it - going inside for some tea and cake”, shut the bootlid, walked about 6 feet and then swore.
The boot release is electrically operated!
Twuntard.
Fortunately my car has the “through load” hatch in the rear seats, otherwise I would have been extremely stuffed, with no other access to the boot, not involving physical force (expensive...)
So after much advanced gymnastics (getting into the back seat was hard enough, as the front seats are electric, and could not be moved forward) I eventually managed to reconnect the battery terminals. Bloody good job I hadn’t removed the fecker at that stage.
But all in all, a PITA of a job. I will let the dealer do it next time.
And I didn’t even get to enjoy the tea and cakes.....
A really fiddly and aggravating process, with so little space to work in.
So when it started to rain, I thought “Sod it - going inside for some tea and cake”, shut the bootlid, walked about 6 feet and then swore.
The boot release is electrically operated!
Twuntard.
Fortunately my car has the “through load” hatch in the rear seats, otherwise I would have been extremely stuffed, with no other access to the boot, not involving physical force (expensive...)
So after much advanced gymnastics (getting into the back seat was hard enough, as the front seats are electric, and could not be moved forward) I eventually managed to reconnect the battery terminals. Bloody good job I hadn’t removed the fecker at that stage.
But all in all, a PITA of a job. I will let the dealer do it next time.
And I didn’t even get to enjoy the tea and cakes.....
You might (for next time) also want to look in the area where your number plate lights are!
There should be a keyhole next to the release handle, so that the boot can be opened manually. (you don’t mention which model year, but as the M3 didn’t really change, I think this applies to all e92).
edit - as Jake says....
There should be a keyhole next to the release handle, so that the boot can be opened manually. (you don’t mention which model year, but as the M3 didn’t really change, I think this applies to all e92).
edit - as Jake says....
t moment when my lock didn’t work. Bit of WD fixed it thankfully.Prinny said:
You might (for next time) also want to look in the area where your number plate lights are!
There should be a keyhole next to the release handle, so that the boot can be opened manually. (you don’t mention which model year, but as the M3 didn’t really change, I think this applies to all e92).
edit - as Jake says....
Unfortunately BMW deleted the physical lock in the boot handle (I did look!) sometime before my car was built (2012 MY). The lock was there on my previous E92, but this was built in 2007.There should be a keyhole next to the release handle, so that the boot can be opened manually. (you don’t mention which model year, but as the M3 didn’t really change, I think this applies to all e92).
edit - as Jake says....
JakeT said:
Even better than that, BMWs have a positive jump point under the bonnnet. Use that to power the car, and then pop the boot that way. Some have a keyhole under the handle of the boot. Not sure if the E92 has this.
The E92 does have this, but once the battery is disconnected (as mine was) the circuit is broken, so no power gets to the boot lid.I tried....
Fastpedeller said:
I guess there's a very large cable from the battery to the starter motor, so could you have connected a +ve to that, and earth to any earthing point and been able to pop the boot with the remote?
All of this stuff was disconnected.The battery was just about ready to be removed, when I had my tea and cakes distraction, as the rain started to come down.
.
bennyboysvuk said:
Incidentally, what were the issues you were seeing prior to changing the battery? Had you done the voltage testing, had the idrive message constantly and had tried charged the battery?
For ever getting the "Increased Battery Discharge" warning, even after driving 60 miles.The comfort access stopped working.
Welcome lights stopped.
Stop/start ceased.
I did the battery recondition thing using my charger, including leaving it for 2 days on charge.
Voltage when switched off was 11.8.
The battery was the original one, from new, so did get 6 years out of it.
Tony B2 said:
For ever getting the "Increased Battery Discharge" warning, even after driving 60 miles.
The comfort access stopped working.
Welcome lights stopped.
Stop/start ceased.
I did the battery recondition thing using my charger, including leaving it for 2 days on charge.
Voltage when switched off was 11.8.
The battery was the original one, from new, so did get 6 years out of it.
Thanks for listing all that. Very interesting to hear. I had that message once and was losing about 10 minutes on the clock per day and the bootlid was mysteriously not closing/locking, but I got a CTEK battery conditioner and all the problems went away....for the time being.The comfort access stopped working.
Welcome lights stopped.
Stop/start ceased.
I did the battery recondition thing using my charger, including leaving it for 2 days on charge.
Voltage when switched off was 11.8.
The battery was the original one, from new, so did get 6 years out of it.
I'll be sure not to close the boot with the battery disconnected when its time comes around.
im needing to have my battery changed. I also have the bmw warranty that i renewed, but i want to do the battery myself, and have my indy code it. Reason being, i do not trust dealers to not break/damage things when they work on my car. Does anyone know if replacing it myself, and having the new one coded by an indy will invalidate my warranty? thanks
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