E46 brake line diy
E46 brake line diy
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Discussion

Gooose

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

110 months

Friday 25th May 2018
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Hi guys does anyone have a link to any diy pictures of a rear brake line replacement, or any advice if you have done it yourself?

I’ve just failed an mot so I’ll give this a go over the next week or so. I’ve read about feeding the lines around the fuel tank but I can’t find any pics of this. Or about fixing new clips on.

helix402

7,913 posts

213 months

Friday 25th May 2018
quotequote all
Just lower the fuel tank not fully removed. Remove rear seat and access panels for fuel senders. Feed pipes over tank. No new clips needed, use copper pipe.

Gooose

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

110 months

Saturday 26th May 2018
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Didn’t even know there are access panels under the rear seat lol, is the seat difficult remove?

helix402

7,913 posts

213 months

Saturday 26th May 2018
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Rear seat base just pulls up.

Gooose

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

110 months

Saturday 26th May 2018
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Has any one got a brake line layout, would by good to know where the clips and the run of the pipes go

steveo3002

11,237 posts

205 months

Saturday 26th May 2018
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use kunifer not copper

Gooose

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

110 months

Saturday 26th May 2018
quotequote all
steveo3002 said:
use kunifer not copper
What’s the difference mate, will it last longer or is it better?

E30M3SE

8,493 posts

227 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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Kunifer or Cunifer is a copper nickel alloy.

steveo3002

11,237 posts

205 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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copper work hardens and is banned in several countrys , kunifer does a better job for much the same price

guards red

689 posts

231 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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Morning,

If you're cutting the existing piping and splicing onto it be aware that the existing piping is very thick (and not soft) and will need a "proper" flaring tool - not a cheapo eBay special.

Most are not hand held which is what you'll want. Look for the sort with a hydraulic ram. Lazer do one I believe.

Only use Kunifer as has been suggested.

Good luck, flaring the original pipe is a pain in the butt.

Gooose

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

110 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
quotequote all
I was planning on removing the whole lot rather than joining them, but it’s hard to find a schematic or a layout to know if it will be a bit to awkward for me to do!

I’ve read that copper nickel stuff is quite hard so I’m not sure if it would be easier in copper, so I can bend it in situ?


steveo3002

11,237 posts

205 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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kunifer is no harder to use than copper ...no reason at all to ever use anything else

no doubt someone will be along to boast how their copper is still fine after patching up a cortina in the 70s

helix402

7,913 posts

213 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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The longest existing line you’ll be replacing runs from the engine bay. down the bulkhead. Along the floor, over the fuel tank, then comes out the other side. The fuel tank can be unbolted, left connected and rested on the prop.

guards red

689 posts

231 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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Gooose said:
I was planning on removing the whole lot rather than joining them, but it’s hard to find a schematic or a layout to know if it will be a bit to awkward for me to do!

I’ve read that copper nickel stuff is quite hard so I’m not sure if it would be easier in copper, so I can bend it in situ?
Look on Real Oem it'll show you the brake pipes and where if any the joints are. Chances are they're aren't any from the ABS unit to the flexi pipes. If that is the case you may want to revise the replacing the whole pipe, its a tough job. A good splice is safe and, if done right, neat.

Gooose

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

110 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
quotequote all
Top advice everyone!