E39 530i cutting out
Discussion
Hi All,
Hoping someone can help and this might be embarrassingly simple, better for my bank balance.
E39 530i auto cut out and stopped yesterday.
Turned a left hand corner, car lost power and stopped. No spluttering, no muss, no fuss, I didn't even notice at first as the car is so quiet.
Initial symptoms after stopping were:
1) Car would start with handbrake on, in park. Put in D and it would creep forward and cut out. No drama, just revs dropped and car stalled. Engine management light yellow illuminated. Called recovery company as didn't want to try driving home.
2) Engine management light went out and car would run in park with handbrake on, moved to the side of the road but stopped engine as didn't want to leave running. Recovery company checked battery with booster pack, battery was showing as low, and moved on it's own with booster pack and shortly showed full, disconnected battery booster and shortly after went to drive on to recovery vehicle and cut out spluttering and sounding rough, used winch to pull onto car. Up until this point car didn't sound rough.
Car recovered to home
Now showing low fuel and range of 26 miles and needle near the bottom once back on the ground. Was previously showing a quarter of a tank. Possibly fuel and sensors might be out if car has been winched on an incline and not yet settled?
Upon starting the car the engine management light still illuminated yellow and car is hunting and after nearly cutting out it picks up revs again and sounds better and then sounds rough ( I was thinking air/fuel problem) Couldn't see any split hoses, but limited light to see. Thinking it might have been low fuel and needle and range was now showing correct I put fuel in from jerry can and car now starts with no hunting but yellow engine management light is still showing.
Is this sensor/fuel pump related? Or as simple as running out of petrol and need to be careful now with gauge? Don't want to just top up with fuel and it cut out again? My under standing is that the car would start hunting and spluttering if low on fuel, or is there a sensor to just stop the car in this case? I've read about a 'transfer pump' in the fuel tank that keeps the fuel level correct?
Thanks in advance.
Hoping someone can help and this might be embarrassingly simple, better for my bank balance.
E39 530i auto cut out and stopped yesterday.
Turned a left hand corner, car lost power and stopped. No spluttering, no muss, no fuss, I didn't even notice at first as the car is so quiet.
Initial symptoms after stopping were:
1) Car would start with handbrake on, in park. Put in D and it would creep forward and cut out. No drama, just revs dropped and car stalled. Engine management light yellow illuminated. Called recovery company as didn't want to try driving home.
2) Engine management light went out and car would run in park with handbrake on, moved to the side of the road but stopped engine as didn't want to leave running. Recovery company checked battery with booster pack, battery was showing as low, and moved on it's own with booster pack and shortly showed full, disconnected battery booster and shortly after went to drive on to recovery vehicle and cut out spluttering and sounding rough, used winch to pull onto car. Up until this point car didn't sound rough.
Car recovered to home
Now showing low fuel and range of 26 miles and needle near the bottom once back on the ground. Was previously showing a quarter of a tank. Possibly fuel and sensors might be out if car has been winched on an incline and not yet settled?
Upon starting the car the engine management light still illuminated yellow and car is hunting and after nearly cutting out it picks up revs again and sounds better and then sounds rough ( I was thinking air/fuel problem) Couldn't see any split hoses, but limited light to see. Thinking it might have been low fuel and needle and range was now showing correct I put fuel in from jerry can and car now starts with no hunting but yellow engine management light is still showing.
Is this sensor/fuel pump related? Or as simple as running out of petrol and need to be careful now with gauge? Don't want to just top up with fuel and it cut out again? My under standing is that the car would start hunting and spluttering if low on fuel, or is there a sensor to just stop the car in this case? I've read about a 'transfer pump' in the fuel tank that keeps the fuel level correct?
Thanks in advance.
Birdster said:
Hi All,
Hoping someone can help and this might be embarrassingly simple, better for my bank balance.
E39 530i auto cut out and stopped yesterday.
Turned a left hand corner, car lost power and stopped. No spluttering, no muss, no fuss, I didn't even notice at first as the car is so quiet.
Initial symptoms after stopping were:
1) Car would start with handbrake on, in park. Put in D and it would creep forward and cut out. No drama, just revs dropped and car stalled. Engine management light yellow illuminated. Called recovery company as didn't want to try driving home.
2) Engine management light went out and car would run in park with handbrake on, moved to the side of the road but stopped engine as didn't want to leave running. Recovery company checked battery with booster pack, battery was showing as low, and moved on it's own with booster pack and shortly showed full, disconnected battery booster and shortly after went to drive on to recovery vehicle and cut out spluttering and sounding rough, used winch to pull onto car. Up until this point car didn't sound rough.
Car recovered to home
Now showing low fuel and range of 26 miles and needle near the bottom once back on the ground. Was previously showing a quarter of a tank. Possibly fuel and sensors might be out if car has been winched on an incline and not yet settled?
Upon starting the car the engine management light still illuminated yellow and car is hunting and after nearly cutting out it picks up revs again and sounds better and then sounds rough ( I was thinking air/fuel problem) Couldn't see any split hoses, but limited light to see. Thinking it might have been low fuel and needle and range was now showing correct I put fuel in from jerry can and car now starts with no hunting but yellow engine management light is still showing.
Is this sensor/fuel pump related? Or as simple as running out of petrol and need to be careful now with gauge? Don't want to just top up with fuel and it cut out again? My under standing is that the car would start hunting and spluttering if low on fuel, or is there a sensor to just stop the car in this case? I've read about a 'transfer pump' in the fuel tank that keeps the fuel level correct?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry to hear of your issuesHoping someone can help and this might be embarrassingly simple, better for my bank balance.
E39 530i auto cut out and stopped yesterday.
Turned a left hand corner, car lost power and stopped. No spluttering, no muss, no fuss, I didn't even notice at first as the car is so quiet.
Initial symptoms after stopping were:
1) Car would start with handbrake on, in park. Put in D and it would creep forward and cut out. No drama, just revs dropped and car stalled. Engine management light yellow illuminated. Called recovery company as didn't want to try driving home.
2) Engine management light went out and car would run in park with handbrake on, moved to the side of the road but stopped engine as didn't want to leave running. Recovery company checked battery with booster pack, battery was showing as low, and moved on it's own with booster pack and shortly showed full, disconnected battery booster and shortly after went to drive on to recovery vehicle and cut out spluttering and sounding rough, used winch to pull onto car. Up until this point car didn't sound rough.
Car recovered to home
Now showing low fuel and range of 26 miles and needle near the bottom once back on the ground. Was previously showing a quarter of a tank. Possibly fuel and sensors might be out if car has been winched on an incline and not yet settled?
Upon starting the car the engine management light still illuminated yellow and car is hunting and after nearly cutting out it picks up revs again and sounds better and then sounds rough ( I was thinking air/fuel problem) Couldn't see any split hoses, but limited light to see. Thinking it might have been low fuel and needle and range was now showing correct I put fuel in from jerry can and car now starts with no hunting but yellow engine management light is still showing.
Is this sensor/fuel pump related? Or as simple as running out of petrol and need to be careful now with gauge? Don't want to just top up with fuel and it cut out again? My under standing is that the car would start hunting and spluttering if low on fuel, or is there a sensor to just stop the car in this case? I've read about a 'transfer pump' in the fuel tank that keeps the fuel level correct?
Thanks in advance.
First port of call really is to get the codes read; that's if any error codes have been cached in the ECU
Secondly; join here: https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/
There's a wealth of info over on the 5 forums and more so the E39; so you'd get detailed answers there
These cars do not like low battery; so if the battery is of an age, the first thing I'd suggest is that you replace it and go for something like the big 19 Yuasa battery that Halfords sell for around £130; it's perfect for the E39:
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-bat...
It could be that it was a low fuel issue and that the fuel filter is full of cack; that's around £30, so well worth changing and very much a DIY if you've a trolley jack/axle stands and a few basic tools. It's under the passenger side front seat, under the car behind the NS sill; it's covered with one of the undertrays
As you've already tried too; check the air intake boot from the MAF back to the throttle body, check all the ribbed areas as these do perish and split and if they let in extra air there, after the MAF, the car won't run well at all. Easy to replace and not that expensive, best to go for the Febi Bilstein parts off eBay; c£15and £25 for the 2 main sections.
You can find your correct part numbers on the RealOEM website; just add the last 7 digits of the cars VIN to the box at the top of the page and it'll bring up your exact car:
www.realoem.com
Parts I've suggested:
Fuel filter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mahle-KL96-OE-Fuel-Filt...
Front section of air intake boot: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E39-530i-Air-Intake...
Rear section of air intake boot: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Genuine-Mass-Air-Fl...
mwAAOSwEYBaitwaHope this helps
Make sure you have fuel. If yes then hook up INPA or arm yourself with an OBD2 reader off eBay, coupled with a free smartphone app. Let the car tell you what's disturbing it as opposed to second-guessing. It looks failing a crankshaft or a camshaft sensor - but this is a 10k feet view... If you need a new sensor go for Febi as they are repackaging the OE one from Siemens.
Was having a google and see cable-shack mentioned https://cable-shack.co.uk/products.php
Do I need the K Line Diagnostic set £34.99 as that states from 1997-2007. Not sure if my car has the connector under the bonnet, but assume if it doesn't then the K Line for £24.99 will do to read the OBDII inside the car?
Do I need the K Line Diagnostic set £34.99 as that states from 1997-2007. Not sure if my car has the connector under the bonnet, but assume if it doesn't then the K Line for £24.99 will do to read the OBDII inside the car?
Birdster said:
Was having a google and see cable-shack mentioned https://cable-shack.co.uk/products.php
Do I need the K Line Diagnostic set £34.99 as that states from 1997-2007. Not sure if my car has the connector under the bonnet, but assume if it doesn't then the K Line for £24.99 will do to read the OBDII inside the car?
Yours should have the OBD port in the small cubby by the steering wheel; look into it and you'll see a flap covering it, just pull that downDo I need the K Line Diagnostic set £34.99 as that states from 1997-2007. Not sure if my car has the connector under the bonnet, but assume if it doesn't then the K Line for £24.99 will do to read the OBDII inside the car?
If you have the pin connections under the bonnet; you'll need to use those.
But, IIRC, all 530i E39s have the active OBD port. Best to make sure before you order though
I guess this should do if you have an android phone:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...
I use this app with it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com....
It is not as detailed, nor features rich as INPA but good enough for basic troubleshooting.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...
I use this app with it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com....
It is not as detailed, nor features rich as INPA but good enough for basic troubleshooting.
Just to add, the "transfer pump" or "sucking jet pump" as BMW call it in the fuel tank isn't a electric pump, it's a venturi type thing driven by the fuel returning to the tank IIRC. So it's unlikely that's the issue.
Fuel level senders can be dodgy on these, there are 2 and the car adds the values together. Could be as simple as running out of fuel. as above I'd add fuel and see how it behaves. There is a "secret menu" on the dashboard that lets you view the fuel levels in each half of the tank without plugging a computer in, have a search on youtube.
Fuel level senders can be dodgy on these, there are 2 and the car adds the values together. Could be as simple as running out of fuel. as above I'd add fuel and see how it behaves. There is a "secret menu" on the dashboard that lets you view the fuel levels in each half of the tank without plugging a computer in, have a search on youtube.
I borrowed one of those ELM327 and just plugged it in and connected to an Android phone.
Following codes logged
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1345 - Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-off
P1343 - Misfire Cylinder 1 with Fuel Cut-off
P0174 - System too lean (Bank 2)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 - System too Lean (Bank 2)
Pending Fault codes
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
First port of call now I'm at home today is
Reset codes
Get some more fuel in there. Short walk to garage.
Start car and move down the road, conscious of going too far and damaging a CAT (if not done so already)
Then read codes again.
I'm very much what I'd say amateur DIY, as in can replace brake pads, broken windows, broken mirrors, service - oil/filters, changed coolant pipes on my MX5. This seems like it might be a little more involved, but probably worth giving a go.
For < £40 I'll buy the Cable Shack cable, as I think it seems false economy not to have more detailed information before I start replacing parts.
The system too lean on both banks, the cylinders are 1-3 bank 1 and cylinders 4-6 bank 2 I believe.
As mentioned above could be vacuum leak causing this, but also MAF/O2 sensor?
Misfire I'm hoping is just the low on fuel, but could be the injectors?
This seems like it might be a bit more complicated, but whilst I'm waiting this at least gives me a head start.
I'll also post on the 5forum as suggested. Two bits of knowledge better than one.
Also going to have the engine cover off as noticed a ticking sound, and see if any oil in the plug wells.
Thanks again all busy weekend coming up.
Following codes logged
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1345 - Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-off
P1343 - Misfire Cylinder 1 with Fuel Cut-off
P0174 - System too lean (Bank 2)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 - System too Lean (Bank 2)
Pending Fault codes
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
First port of call now I'm at home today is
Reset codes
Get some more fuel in there. Short walk to garage.
Start car and move down the road, conscious of going too far and damaging a CAT (if not done so already)
Then read codes again.
I'm very much what I'd say amateur DIY, as in can replace brake pads, broken windows, broken mirrors, service - oil/filters, changed coolant pipes on my MX5. This seems like it might be a little more involved, but probably worth giving a go.
For < £40 I'll buy the Cable Shack cable, as I think it seems false economy not to have more detailed information before I start replacing parts.
The system too lean on both banks, the cylinders are 1-3 bank 1 and cylinders 4-6 bank 2 I believe.
As mentioned above could be vacuum leak causing this, but also MAF/O2 sensor?
Misfire I'm hoping is just the low on fuel, but could be the injectors?
This seems like it might be a bit more complicated, but whilst I'm waiting this at least gives me a head start.
I'll also post on the 5forum as suggested. Two bits of knowledge better than one.
Also going to have the engine cover off as noticed a ticking sound, and see if any oil in the plug wells.
Thanks again all busy weekend coming up.
Birdster said:
I borrowed one of those ELM327 and just plugged it in and connected to an Android phone.
Following codes logged
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1345 - Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-off
P1343 - Misfire Cylinder 1 with Fuel Cut-off
P0174 - System too lean (Bank 2)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 - System too Lean (Bank 2)
Pending Fault codes
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
First port of call now I'm at home today is
Reset codes
Get some more fuel in there. Short walk to garage.
Start car and move down the road, conscious of going too far and damaging a CAT (if not done so already)
Then read codes again.
I'm very much what I'd say amateur DIY, as in can replace brake pads, broken windows, broken mirrors, service - oil/filters, changed coolant pipes on my MX5. This seems like it might be a little more involved, but probably worth giving a go.
For < £40 I'll buy the Cable Shack cable, as I think it seems false economy not to have more detailed information before I start replacing parts.
The system too lean on both banks, the cylinders are 1-3 bank 1 and cylinders 4-6 bank 2 I believe.
As mentioned above could be vacuum leak causing this, but also MAF/O2 sensor?
Misfire I'm hoping is just the low on fuel, but could be the injectors?
This seems like it might be a bit more complicated, but whilst I'm waiting this at least gives me a head start.
I'll also post on the 5forum as suggested. Two bits of knowledge better than one.
Also going to have the engine cover off as noticed a ticking sound, and see if any oil in the plug wells.
Thanks again all busy weekend coming up.
Have you put fuel in it?Following codes logged
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1345 - Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-off
P1343 - Misfire Cylinder 1 with Fuel Cut-off
P0174 - System too lean (Bank 2)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 - System too Lean (Bank 2)
Pending Fault codes
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
First port of call now I'm at home today is
Reset codes
Get some more fuel in there. Short walk to garage.
Start car and move down the road, conscious of going too far and damaging a CAT (if not done so already)
Then read codes again.
I'm very much what I'd say amateur DIY, as in can replace brake pads, broken windows, broken mirrors, service - oil/filters, changed coolant pipes on my MX5. This seems like it might be a little more involved, but probably worth giving a go.
For < £40 I'll buy the Cable Shack cable, as I think it seems false economy not to have more detailed information before I start replacing parts.
The system too lean on both banks, the cylinders are 1-3 bank 1 and cylinders 4-6 bank 2 I believe.
As mentioned above could be vacuum leak causing this, but also MAF/O2 sensor?
Misfire I'm hoping is just the low on fuel, but could be the injectors?
This seems like it might be a bit more complicated, but whilst I'm waiting this at least gives me a head start.
I'll also post on the 5forum as suggested. Two bits of knowledge better than one.
Also going to have the engine cover off as noticed a ticking sound, and see if any oil in the plug wells.
Thanks again all busy weekend coming up.
Okay, half tank of fuel, cleared fault codes and EML is out. Seems the fuel tank sensor is off. So won't let drop below half a tank for now. Part one solved. Honest it wasn't showing low when car stopped.
Noticed a rattle from the car on increasing or holding revs whilst stationary, tracked this down to the DISA making noise. Unplug DISA vale rattle stops.
Took this off and all seems intact, but when opening and closing it's clicking and opening when holding like so. Noticed some oil residue also. Shouldn't that stay completely closed? Also no o ring where this connects to manifold. So need one of those
Rebuild kit here: https://x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-disa-valve-inta...
From looking at the below it shouldn't open that much.
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60...
Trying to find replacement online, is it BMW only?
Noticed a rattle from the car on increasing or holding revs whilst stationary, tracked this down to the DISA making noise. Unplug DISA vale rattle stops.
Took this off and all seems intact, but when opening and closing it's clicking and opening when holding like so. Noticed some oil residue also. Shouldn't that stay completely closed? Also no o ring where this connects to manifold. So need one of those
Rebuild kit here: https://x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-disa-valve-inta...
From looking at the below it shouldn't open that much.
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60...
Trying to find replacement online, is it BMW only?
Edited by Birdster on Thursday 8th August 13:40
Birdster said:
Okay, half tank of fuel, cleared fault codes and EML is out. Seems the fuel tank sensor is off. So won't let drop below half a tank for now. Part one solved. Honest it wasn't showing low when car stopped.
Noticed a rattle from the car on increasing or holding revs whilst stationary, tracked this down to the DISA making noise. Unplug DISA vale rattle stops.
Took this off and all seems intact, but when opening and closing it's clicking and opening when holding like so. Noticed some oil residue also. Shouldn't that stay completely closed? Also no o ring where this connects to manifold. So need one of those
Rebuild kit here: https://x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-disa-valve-inta...
From looking at the below it shouldn't open that much.
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60...
Trying to find replacement online, is it BMW only?
Use the X8R rebuild kit, comes with everything you need and they have a great 'how to' on Youtube. Takes about 30mins all in, removal, refurb, refit Noticed a rattle from the car on increasing or holding revs whilst stationary, tracked this down to the DISA making noise. Unplug DISA vale rattle stops.
Took this off and all seems intact, but when opening and closing it's clicking and opening when holding like so. Noticed some oil residue also. Shouldn't that stay completely closed? Also no o ring where this connects to manifold. So need one of those
Rebuild kit here: https://x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-disa-valve-inta...
From looking at the below it shouldn't open that much.
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60...
Trying to find replacement online, is it BMW only?
Edited by Birdster on Thursday 8th August 13:40
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