E60/E61 Parts and suspension advice
Discussion
Good Evening PH
Some advice please
In my quest to sort out the knocking suspension and brake judder, I've taken it to a new garage that has advised me that one of my struts has leaked all its fluid and that the tie rod arm and track rod end also need replacing. I've had the tie rod arm and track rod end replaced on the passenger side 6 months ago, so this makes sense, the question is, which bits do I buy?
This maybe? https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/meyle-2121534
Also, is it wise to replace both struts and top mounts at the same time? I've heard conflicting advice about this...the garage seems to think it will be OK just to replace the knackered one. I'm planning to go with some Sachs struts.
Thanks in advance!
Some advice please
In my quest to sort out the knocking suspension and brake judder, I've taken it to a new garage that has advised me that one of my struts has leaked all its fluid and that the tie rod arm and track rod end also need replacing. I've had the tie rod arm and track rod end replaced on the passenger side 6 months ago, so this makes sense, the question is, which bits do I buy?
This maybe? https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/meyle-2121534
Also, is it wise to replace both struts and top mounts at the same time? I've heard conflicting advice about this...the garage seems to think it will be OK just to replace the knackered one. I'm planning to go with some Sachs struts.
Thanks in advance!
RanchoGrande said:
Good Evening PH
Some advice please
In my quest to sort out the knocking suspension and brake judder, I've taken it to a new garage that has advised me that one of my struts has leaked all its fluid and that the tie rod arm and track rod end also need replacing. I've had the tie rod arm and track rod end replaced on the passenger side 6 months ago, so this makes sense, the question is, which bits do I buy?
This maybe? https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/meyle-2121534
Also, is it wise to replace both struts and top mounts at the same time? I've heard conflicting advice about this...the garage seems to think it will be OK just to replace the knackered one. I'm planning to go with some Sachs struts.
Thanks in advance!
Yes, you can just replace singles. But for me, that gives you one new side and one old side...Some advice please
In my quest to sort out the knocking suspension and brake judder, I've taken it to a new garage that has advised me that one of my struts has leaked all its fluid and that the tie rod arm and track rod end also need replacing. I've had the tie rod arm and track rod end replaced on the passenger side 6 months ago, so this makes sense, the question is, which bits do I buy?
This maybe? https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/meyle-2121534
Also, is it wise to replace both struts and top mounts at the same time? I've heard conflicting advice about this...the garage seems to think it will be OK just to replace the knackered one. I'm planning to go with some Sachs struts.
Thanks in advance!
Personally I always replace suspension components in pairs, it makes more sense to me to keep them on an even keel and keep the wear rates the same.
When I rebuilt my current touring suspension, I replaced everything in pairs, even though some parts looked fairly new.
I source all my parts via BMWmotormec and C3BMW on eBay, but for Sachs shocks, I sourced them via RTGroup on eBay.
However for top mounts, I went OEM BMW for peace of mind, I’ve had issues with Meyle and Lemforder top mounts before
Get your part numbers from www.realoem.com (input the last 7 digits of your vin into the top box and it’ll bring up your exact car). All suspension parts are in the diagrams ‘front axle’ and ‘rear axle’
It’s your car and your £££. Some folk will say it’s fine to replace singles, others will argue against along with my train of thought. So you’ve to decide what you feel is best for you
d_a_n1979 said:
Yes, you can just replace singles. But for me, that gives you one new side and one old side...
Personally I always replace suspension components in pairs, it makes more sense to me to keep them on an even keel and keep the wear rates the same.
When I rebuilt my current touring suspension, I replaced everything in pairs, even though some parts looked fairly new.
I source all my parts via BMWmotormec and C3BMW on eBay, but for Sachs shocks, I sourced them via RTGroup on eBay.
However for top mounts, I went OEM BMW for peace of mind, I’ve had issues with Meyle and Lemforder top mounts before
Get your part numbers from www.realoem.com (input the last 7 digits of your vin into the top box and it’ll bring up your exact car). All suspension parts are in the diagrams ‘front axle’ and ‘rear axle’
It’s your car and your £££. Some folk will say it’s fine to replace singles, others will argue against along with my train of thought. So you’ve to decide what you feel is best for you
Thanks Dan, I've been on Real OEM but can't figure out which bits are the tie rod arm and the track rod end. Was planning to get some sachs top mounts. I think I will just replace both struts, makes sense.Personally I always replace suspension components in pairs, it makes more sense to me to keep them on an even keel and keep the wear rates the same.
When I rebuilt my current touring suspension, I replaced everything in pairs, even though some parts looked fairly new.
I source all my parts via BMWmotormec and C3BMW on eBay, but for Sachs shocks, I sourced them via RTGroup on eBay.
However for top mounts, I went OEM BMW for peace of mind, I’ve had issues with Meyle and Lemforder top mounts before
Get your part numbers from www.realoem.com (input the last 7 digits of your vin into the top box and it’ll bring up your exact car). All suspension parts are in the diagrams ‘front axle’ and ‘rear axle’
It’s your car and your £££. Some folk will say it’s fine to replace singles, others will argue against along with my train of thought. So you’ve to decide what you feel is best for you
OK, I think I have figured it out:
The tie rod arm and track rod end make up this whole assembly:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-track-rod-...
The tie rod arm and track rod end make up this whole assembly:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-track-rod-...
RanchoGrande said:
OK, I think I have figured it out:
The tie rod arm and track rod end make up this whole assembly:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-track-rod-...
Yup, sometimes known as then inner CV joint. If it’s got play or seized then yes, needs replacingThe tie rod arm and track rod end make up this whole assembly:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-track-rod-...
However, please don’t buy from ECP
Get all your parts from BMWmotormec, as per I and a lot of others over on the 5 forums use. A long standing and trusted reseller of Meyle HD and Lemforder parts
But, speak to Cotswolds BMW on the 5 forums and get a quote for the OEM BMW top mounts. Personally I’d go with them
RanchoGrande said:
Thanks Dan, planning to buy Lemforder top mounts and track rod assembly. Don't Lemforder make the "genuine BMW" top mounts anyway?
I try and avoid ECP if I can, although it's a good place to look at images and find the right bits.
They may do, but you don’t get the BMW warranty (which I’ve found out the hard way), but horses for courses.I try and avoid ECP if I can, although it's a good place to look at images and find the right bits.
RealOEMs diagrams are very good, as are the pics on eBay

Find your part numbers and search ‘BMW - part number’ and go from there & try to buy from the resellers mentioned.
Jonnyboy on eBay is a good reseller too FYI
Also, Moog are very good parts; you’ll usually find them via your local motorfactors or on eBay also. They offer 2-5 years warranty too!
Finally got round to sorting this - ended up with Sachs struts, lemforder top mounts and tie rod assembly. Car feels a lot better at the front now and no longer has any knocks or wobbles. One of the louder knocks ended up being a screw driver that was left somewhere inside the wheel arch (seriously WTF). One of the old struts was pretty knackered and had leaked most of the oil out.
Still have brake wobble though! Had hoped replacing all these bits would have cured it.
Still have brake wobble though! Had hoped replacing all these bits would have cured it.
RanchoGrande said:
Still have brake wobble though! Had hoped replacing all these bits would have cured it.
Check your brake discs then.I had some brake wobble, changed the discs/pads and that cured it for a while but it came back after 2000 miles. In an unrelated repair, I changed all the suspension arms and the judder was still there. Eventually it was diagnosed as a warped disc (I didn't do any harsh braking or sit on hot brakes in that short period of time), but BMW did them under warranty and now it's cured.
Yep, thread revival etc.
Just want to say thanks for the reference about bmw motor mec parts.
I had been conteplating ecp for either starline, moog or trw parts.
Yet bmw motor mec had meyle branded parts cheaper than all of them...
Have to wait a couple of days, but if was quite surprised to be honest.
Will have to remember that site in future.
Ian
Just want to say thanks for the reference about bmw motor mec parts.
I had been conteplating ecp for either starline, moog or trw parts.
Yet bmw motor mec had meyle branded parts cheaper than all of them...
Have to wait a couple of days, but if was quite surprised to be honest.
Will have to remember that site in future.
Ian
d_a_n1979 said:
Yup, sometimes known as then inner CV joint. If it s got play or seized then yes, needs replacing
However, please don t buy from ECP
Get all your parts from BMWmotormec, as per I and a lot of others over on the 5 forums use. A long standing and trusted reseller of Meyle HD and Lemforder parts
But, speak to Cotswolds BMW on the 5 forums and get a quote for the OEM BMW top mounts. Personally I d go with them
However, please don t buy from ECP
Get all your parts from BMWmotormec, as per I and a lot of others over on the 5 forums use. A long standing and trusted reseller of Meyle HD and Lemforder parts
But, speak to Cotswolds BMW on the 5 forums and get a quote for the OEM BMW top mounts. Personally I d go with them
Ian Geary said:
Yep, thread revival etc.
Just want to say thanks for the reference about bmw motor mec parts.
I had been conteplating ecp for either starline, moog or trw parts.
Yet bmw motor mec had meyle branded parts cheaper than all of them...
Have to wait a couple of days, but if was quite surprised to be honest.
Will have to remember that site in future.
Ian
BMWMotormec and C3BMW are my general go-to'sJust want to say thanks for the reference about bmw motor mec parts.
I had been conteplating ecp for either starline, moog or trw parts.
Yet bmw motor mec had meyle branded parts cheaper than all of them...
Have to wait a couple of days, but if was quite surprised to be honest.
Will have to remember that site in future.
Ian
d_a_n1979 said:
Yup, sometimes known as then inner CV joint. If it s got play or seized then yes, needs replacing
However, please don t buy from ECP
Get all your parts from BMWmotormec, as per I and a lot of others over on the 5 forums use. A long standing and trusted reseller of Meyle HD and Lemforder parts
But, speak to Cotswolds BMW on the 5 forums and get a quote for the OEM BMW top mounts. Personally I d go with them
However, please don t buy from ECP
Get all your parts from BMWmotormec, as per I and a lot of others over on the 5 forums use. A long standing and trusted reseller of Meyle HD and Lemforder parts
But, speak to Cotswolds BMW on the 5 forums and get a quote for the OEM BMW top mounts. Personally I d go with them
But I also use and advocate Moog as they're superb parts and have a solid warranty too
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