1997 BMW 728i E38
Discussion
Just saw a 1997 auto for around £1, 500. Around 100, 000 miles on the clock, service history and looks clean.
Never had a BMW before.
Are these worth a poke at this age?
Any things to look out for, and what are they good for in mileage?
Am looking for a daily driver, and do a fair bit of miles.
Never had a BMW before.
Are these worth a poke at this age?
Any things to look out for, and what are they good for in mileage?
Am looking for a daily driver, and do a fair bit of miles.
Nick England said:
Just saw a 1997 auto for around £1, 500. Around 100, 000 miles on the clock, service history and looks clean.
Never had a BMW before.
Are these worth a poke at this age?
Any things to look out for, and what are they good for in mileage?
Am looking for a daily driver, and do a fair bit of miles.
Solid engine, some say it’s too small for the car, but I loved my M52 728i and would have another in a heart beat.. They’re fine for a daily car too, proper waft bus and with parking sensors front & rear, a cinch to park Never had a BMW before.
Are these worth a poke at this age?
Any things to look out for, and what are they good for in mileage?
Am looking for a daily driver, and do a fair bit of miles.
Check sills, rear arches and rear bumper balance for rust, check front and rear jacking points too.
The M52, like the M54, engines need to have a looked after cooling system, so if there’s no paperwork to show recent work, then budget c£300 for a new state, water pump, top/bottom hoses and a coolant flush/refill.
Check the rad too, if it looks damaged or bowed, that needs replacing. Nissens or a Behr, c£100 from the likes of C3BMW or BMWmotormec on eBay.
Look up the website ‘meeknet’ it’s got loads of info re E38s, mainly the V8s, but the chassis/brakes/suspension is more or less the same, bar the 728i E38s got the 4 pot Brembo brakes up front.
They can wear badly on suspension, so again paperwork needed to show it’s been looked after. Any shimmy when driving at 50/60mph is the rear suspension arms, any wobbles when braking is either discs/pads or front suspension arms. Shocks and springs are usually solid
Check that the air con and heaters work as they should too
Parts for them are not expensive, so it’s not a worry if bits need replacing. Some stuff can rust seize as can any car and its parts at this age, if you’re great with spanner’s then spot on, most is easy DIY.
Body work is the killer of these, so check it thoroughly
Nick England said:
Just saw a 1997 auto for around £1, 500. Around 100, 000 miles on the clock, service history and looks clean.
Am looking for a daily driver, and do a fair bit of miles.
At that money & 23 years old, it'll be what Pistonheads calls a Shed. The kind of thing used for knocking around in, but if you need it to be reliable, I wouldn't count on it. It'll be juicy too. How many miles is a fair bit?Am looking for a daily driver, and do a fair bit of miles.
Thanks for the replies. Wasn't able to post last night due to PH policy for newbies when others have got a bit aggro with each other, and they stop taking posts.
5-7k miles a year really. Had a Mk1 BMW Cooper S before, so am used to s
t mileage. This seems like it would be the same.
Am aware that as a 23 year old car it would have issues, and is a shed. For anything I can't fix I have a local mechanic here who doesn't charge a lot.
Will wait to hear from the seller if it's still for sale, and then send in the inspectors to take a look at it.
Seems from what else I've read about them that they're pretty bulletproof.
Cheers,
Nick
5-7k miles a year really. Had a Mk1 BMW Cooper S before, so am used to s
t mileage. This seems like it would be the same.Am aware that as a 23 year old car it would have issues, and is a shed. For anything I can't fix I have a local mechanic here who doesn't charge a lot.
Will wait to hear from the seller if it's still for sale, and then send in the inspectors to take a look at it.
Seems from what else I've read about them that they're pretty bulletproof.
Cheers,
Nick
Nick England said:
Thanks for the replies. Wasn't able to post last night due to PH policy for newbies when others have got a bit aggro with each other, and they stop taking posts.
5-7k miles a year really. Had a Mk1 BMW Cooper S before, so am used to st mileage. This seems like it would be the same.
Am aware that as a 23 year old car it would have issues, and is a shed. For anything I can't fix I have a local mechanic here who doesn't charge a lot.
Will wait to hear from the seller if it's still for sale, and then send in the inspectors to take a look at it.
Seems from what else I've read about them that they're pretty bulletproof.
Cheers,
Nick
5-7k miles is nothing; it'll be perfect for that 5-7k miles a year really. Had a Mk1 BMW Cooper S before, so am used to s
t mileage. This seems like it would be the same.Am aware that as a 23 year old car it would have issues, and is a shed. For anything I can't fix I have a local mechanic here who doesn't charge a lot.
Will wait to hear from the seller if it's still for sale, and then send in the inspectors to take a look at it.
Seems from what else I've read about them that they're pretty bulletproof.
Cheers,
Nick
I only do c5k miles a year as I run my business from home; my previous 728i was a superb car (once I sorted both sills and some other patches of rust); the engines are bulletproof, my recommendation would be to keep the oil fresh, so change twice a year. I've used TripleQX 5W30 and 5W40 since about 2012 now, with Mann filters from ECP. Via their eBay shop (carpartssaver and carparts4less, all part of ECP) you can get 10l of the oil and a Mann filter for c£55 delivered)!
The M52 and M54 engines do have common oil leaks from the rocker cover gaskets and the oil filter housing gasket; they're cheap to replace, bit of a faffy job but easy enough to sort with basic tools
This was my 728i on refurbed Style 32s and running BC coilovers:
helix402 said:
Be aware that if the 728 has the original block and pistons it may be the type that wear out prematurely. Also do not overheat it as the blocks and heads warp.
The Nikasil blocks you mean?Good point!
Although if it's done 100k and no issues; it'll be fine as long as it's been well serviced & maintained
d_a_n1979 said:
The Nikasil blocks you mean?
Good point!
Although if it's done 100k and no issues; it'll be fine as long as it's been well serviced & maintained
Yes, the good old Nikasil blocks. I worked many hours of overtime changing M52 block and pistons due to bore wear. Used to fit short engines to the worst overheated ones after learning that overheating often warped the block and the head. Good point!
Although if it's done 100k and no issues; it'll be fine as long as it's been well serviced & maintained
Edited by helix402 on Thursday 27th February 21:06
As mentioned, engine wise, should be fine. IMO, even if a Nikasil block, if it has done 100k already and not failed by now, it's unlikely to be an issue. I took my Nikasil engined 328 to 214k with no bother. Still going afaik. Budget for potential cooling system refresh.
Relative to the E65, the E38 is a much more simple machine.
Relative to the E65, the E38 is a much more simple machine.
d_a_n1979 said:
Love Type 32s. 1997 will be the old single Vanos engine and it's simple E36 style cooling system. All easy stuff. The rads are far less prone to failing but I'd still whip the water pump out and inspect it. They're 30-40 quid new. Fuel tanks are all steel and rust in the seams, and only a brim at the pumps will tell you if it leaks or stinks of fuel. Front springs can break and can rip the sidewall out of the tyre. Rusty brake pipes are standard. The old pre '99 model year ABS units almost never fail. Older ones tend to rust less than later ones, just like the E39. The plastic trim around the base of the drivers seat that holds the switches will probably be loose or broken.
Not a bad old car, worth buying a good one now and looking after it.
Not a bad old car, worth buying a good one now and looking after it.
Nick England said:
Seller never got back to me about it, so I've written the idea off.. Am also slightly suspect about buying such an old lady on tight budget.
Thanks for the advice though.
Have booked the AA in to check out a 2004 318i Touring, and if that's all ok, will be buying that
N46! Run away very fast.Thanks for the advice though.
Have booked the AA in to check out a 2004 318i Touring, and if that's all ok, will be buying that
Nick England said:
Hmm. Have read so many mixed, and mostly negative reviews, that I don't think I would like to go ahwad with it.
Am now looking at a similar era 320i 2.2 E46 auto tourer. Better bet?
I agree with the above; stick with a 325i, 328i or 330i minimumAm now looking at a similar era 320i 2.2 E46 auto tourer. Better bet?
The 320i will be slow and lacking in power and you'll wonder why you didn't go for a 325i or above soon after
Where in the world are you and what's your budget?
None of these cars are a good buy if you plan to run on a shoestring budget FYI; a simple suspension & brake overhaul will cost you £hundreds without trying!
In Suffolk. Not fussed about boy racer performance, but do fancy dipping my toe into BMW territory.
Budget for the car is 1500, and having run old cars for years, appreciate they throw a wobbly every now and again.
Looking to pick one with FSH, and am checking MOT advisories, and will get an AA inspection done.
I realise this end of the market is risky, but am prepared for that.
From what I've read, parts are no more expensive than a VW, and that Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults are just as likely to go wrong. Not interested in Fords or Vauxhalls, or anything Japanese.
I do appreciate the advice that the N46 is a horrible engine though, and that an E46 is a better bet. Thanks for that.
Budget for the car is 1500, and having run old cars for years, appreciate they throw a wobbly every now and again.
Looking to pick one with FSH, and am checking MOT advisories, and will get an AA inspection done.
I realise this end of the market is risky, but am prepared for that.
From what I've read, parts are no more expensive than a VW, and that Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults are just as likely to go wrong. Not interested in Fords or Vauxhalls, or anything Japanese.
I do appreciate the advice that the N46 is a horrible engine though, and that an E46 is a better bet. Thanks for that.
Nick England said:
In Suffolk. Not fussed about boy racer performance, but do fancy dipping my toe into BMW territory.
Budget for the car is 1500, and having run old cars for years, appreciate they throw a wobbly every now and again.
Looking to pick one with FSH, and am checking MOT advisories, and will get an AA inspection done.
I realise this end of the market is risky, but am prepared for that.
From what I've read, parts are no more expensive than a VW, and that Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults are just as likely to go wrong. Not interested in Fords or Vauxhalls, or anything Japanese.
I do appreciate the advice that the N46 is a horrible engine though, and that an E46 is a better bet. Thanks for that.
£1500 isn't bad and there will be cars out there that fit that budget; but I still stand by that you're better off going for the M52 or M54 25/28/30i than any of the lower end engines... Budget for the car is 1500, and having run old cars for years, appreciate they throw a wobbly every now and again.
Looking to pick one with FSH, and am checking MOT advisories, and will get an AA inspection done.
I realise this end of the market is risky, but am prepared for that.
From what I've read, parts are no more expensive than a VW, and that Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults are just as likely to go wrong. Not interested in Fords or Vauxhalls, or anything Japanese.
I do appreciate the advice that the N46 is a horrible engine though, and that an E46 is a better bet. Thanks for that.
Just a quick look on eBay and this coupe looks well: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-325i-SPORT-AUTO-200...
Do you need 4 doors?
325i tourer here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-2000-X-325I-AUT...
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