Stupidly jump started e61, now not charging, help!
Stupidly jump started e61, now not charging, help!
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schmokin1

Original Poster:

1,223 posts

242 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
Hi everyone.

Yes, I was stupid (and sleep deprived) and I jump started the old e61 525d at the battery, not the jump terminal in the engine bay, and now the battery voltage across the terminals stays the same whether engine running or not. I have replaced the alternator regulator but no joy. I have a scanner and can’t find any direct faults - when I unplugged the exciter wire the correct fault showed for this, and went away when plugged back in. I am only seeing 7.5 volts in the exciter wire with engine running, though.

Battery is a bit shagged (which is why it broke down) so I will replace but obviously I have done something to it. Any help tracking this one down appreciated!

Cheers all
Schmo ( and feeling like one)

d_a_n1979

13,851 posts

102 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
Unplug the IBS cable, fit a new battery and see if it starts fine then…

If it does, then you need to replace the IBS sensor I’d say

schmokin1

Original Poster:

1,223 posts

242 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
It starts fine, it's not charging the battery…

naturalaspiration

639 posts

113 months

Friday 11th February 2022
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Red Alternator lamp is lit in the dash when engine is running?

V8covin

10,220 posts

223 months

Friday 11th February 2022
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Can you explain why jumping off the battery is a bad idea ?

naturalaspiration

639 posts

113 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
Notes for Service department
General notes
Notice! Charging and trickle charging of the battery
The battery may only be recharged with a battery charger that has been approved by BMW and that has a constant charging voltage of 14.8V.

If possible, the battery temperature should be between 15 °C and 25 °C during charging. Under these preconditions, the battery is adequately charged when the charge current drops below 2.5 amps.

If the battery is recharged at low temperatures, the charging procedure should not be ended until the charge current drops below 1.5 A.

On vehicles with IBS, recharging the battery directly at the battery terminals could lead to a misinterpretation of the battery condition and even unwanted Check Control messages or fault entries.

If the battery is recharged while it is installed, it must be recharged using the jump start terminal points, whenever jump start terminal points are provided in the engine compartment. Only then can you be sure that charging is correctly recognised by the vehicle electronics on vehicles with an intelligent battery sensor (IBS).

V8covin

10,220 posts

223 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
naturalaspiration said:
Notes for Service department
General notes
Notice! Charging and trickle charging of the battery
The battery may only be recharged with a battery charger that has been approved by BMW and that has a constant charging voltage of 14.8V.

If possible, the battery temperature should be between 15 °C and 25 °C during charging. Under these preconditions, the battery is adequately charged when the charge current drops below 2.5 amps.

If the battery is recharged at low temperatures, the charging procedure should not be ended until the charge current drops below 1.5 A.

On vehicles with IBS, recharging the battery directly at the battery terminals could lead to a misinterpretation of the battery condition and even unwanted Check Control messages or fault entries.

If the battery is recharged while it is installed, it must be recharged using the jump start terminal points, whenever jump start terminal points are provided in the engine compartment. Only then can you be sure that charging is correctly recognised by the vehicle electronics on vehicles with an intelligent battery sensor (IBS).
Thanks...... would a simple disconnection and reconnection of the terminals not reset it ?
What happens when the battery is replaced, does it need recoding ?

Edited by V8covin on Friday 11th February 19:08

schmokin1

Original Poster:

1,223 posts

242 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
On further reading of tinterweb it seems jump starting a Beamer via the battery tends to fry not only the alternator but possibly many and varied of the control modules. I’m getting quite a few error codes and having a bit of trouble finding out if 7.5 volts to the exciter wire is ok….

I’d be a bit fed up trying a new alternator and still getting no charge and being none the wiser why…

CarCrazyDad

4,280 posts

65 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
schmokin1 said:
On further reading of tinterweb it seems jump starting a Beamer via the battery tends to fry not only the alternator but possibly many and varied of the control modules. I’m getting quite a few error codes and having a bit of trouble finding out if 7.5 volts to the exciter wire is ok….

I’d be a bit fed up trying a new alternator and still getting no charge and being none the wiser why…
I jump started both my 320d and 330d (E9X generation) without any problem from the battery

Try the battery cable, but it makes no difference if it's on the battery or on the under-bonnet terminals, in my understanding

helix402

7,913 posts

212 months

Friday 11th February 2022
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Rtfm. Read the fault memory of the whole car. Otherwise you’ll be playing parts bingo.

naturalaspiration

639 posts

113 months

Friday 11th February 2022
quotequote all
If your battery voltage is 7.5V disconnected, and you cannot charge it with a smart charger Ctek or the likes it's shot.

schmokin1

Original Poster:

1,223 posts

242 months

Saturday 12th February 2022
quotequote all
The (somewhat reduced) battery voltage was 11.8v

Codes I got were E18C monitoring message, E18F config does not match and E714 KCAN: power management, battery voltage, 3 BE. Googling these makes me think they might be battery related for the first two and alternator output for the third.

Edited by schmokin1 on Saturday 12th February 09:53

V8covin

10,220 posts

223 months

Saturday 12th February 2022
quotequote all
schmokin1 said:
The (somewhat reduced) battery voltage was 11.8v

Codes I got were E18C monitoring message, E18F config does not match and E714 KCAN: power management, battery voltage, 3 BE. Googling these makes me think they might be battery related for the first two and alternator output for the third.

Edited by schmokin1 on Saturday 12th February 09:53
Have you cleared the codes ?

schmokin1

Original Poster:

1,223 posts

242 months

Saturday 12th February 2022
quotequote all
Yes, done several resets. There's no fault code directly related to alternator output or DDE function.

I’ll see if I can test the alternator diodes next…

Olivergt

2,267 posts

111 months

Saturday 12th February 2022
quotequote all
11.8v is not really enough. A lot of BMWs are very temperamental about low battery voltage.

How old is the battery?

Have you taken it out and given it a good charge?

RUSSELLM

6,003 posts

277 months

Saturday 12th February 2022
quotequote all
Any chance you’ve blown a mega fuse or the old battery has dried out and blown it ?

Check for continuity from the large red wire at the alternator, to the battery positive terminal.

E-bmw

13,501 posts

182 months

Sunday 13th February 2022
quotequote all
Olivergt said:
11.8v is not really enough. A lot of BMWs are very temperamental about low battery voltage.

How old is the battery?

Have you taken it out and given it a good charge?
11.8v is flatter than a flat thing.

A good battery fully charged should be around 12.7v, every 0.1v below that is a loss of around 20% of its capacity, so yours is stuffed.

You need to get it back up to full charge or replaced then reset codes before even trying to start the car or fault find further.

They are very susceptible to low battery voltage causing multiple apparent errors that then clear when the battery is up to scratch.

RUSSELLM

6,003 posts

277 months

Sunday 13th February 2022
quotequote all
One thing I missed on my reply…. I take it the alternator’s spinning ? biggrin

schmokin1

Original Poster:

1,223 posts

242 months

Sunday 13th February 2022
quotequote all
RUSSELLM said:
Any chance you’ve blown a mega fuse or the old battery has dried out and blown it ?

Check for continuity from the large red wire at the alternator, to the battery positive terminal.
Ok will do. I’m away for work for a few days so it’ll be Thursday before I can report back!

buggalugs

9,288 posts

267 months

Monday 14th February 2022
quotequote all
naturalaspiration said:
If your battery voltage is 7.5V disconnected, and you cannot charge it with a smart charger Ctek or the likes it's shot.
It was the exciter wire that was 7.5v which isn't unusual because it's ECU regulated not internally regulated, it may well be a PWM signal not a DC voltage anyway.

There are alternator faults that can give no charge and no battery light if OP can find someone who actually checks and repairs alternators rather than firing parts at things it would be worth taking it off and getting it tested.