E91 335i 6MT to sell, sort first or list for lower price?
Discussion
Evening all
I have a 6MT e91 335i that will be for sale very shortly. There are a couple of niggles that need looking at, nothing major.
1 - Rear arches are starting to bubble, not a big job but some people have a favourite bodyshop to do their work so some may like to see the extent of the corrosion before it is fixed, or indeed, do it themselves
2 - the thermostat is sticking and it can throw a reduced power/engine light, it only occurs at wide open throttle type driving so I've been living with it as it rarely occurs to me.
My thinking is that these cars are popular with the tuners as the 6MT, N54 and E91 is a well liked combo so if tuning is going to take place, I'm guessing the coolant system will be upgraded too.
What are people's thoughts on me fixing it and then listing over listing as is with a reduced price?
I have a 6MT e91 335i that will be for sale very shortly. There are a couple of niggles that need looking at, nothing major.
1 - Rear arches are starting to bubble, not a big job but some people have a favourite bodyshop to do their work so some may like to see the extent of the corrosion before it is fixed, or indeed, do it themselves
2 - the thermostat is sticking and it can throw a reduced power/engine light, it only occurs at wide open throttle type driving so I've been living with it as it rarely occurs to me.
My thinking is that these cars are popular with the tuners as the 6MT, N54 and E91 is a well liked combo so if tuning is going to take place, I'm guessing the coolant system will be upgraded too.
What are people's thoughts on me fixing it and then listing over listing as is with a reduced price?
Edited by megenzo on Saturday 13th August 20:40
IMO get the mechanical bits fixed, absolutely
The body work; leave that to the buyers to sort
Personally I'm happy to take on a car as a project that6's been looked after, but needs a certain level of TLC and mechanicals/cooling system/brakes etc, for me, need to be sorted preferably
Each to their own etc. You can only buy try
The body work; leave that to the buyers to sort
Personally I'm happy to take on a car as a project that6's been looked after, but needs a certain level of TLC and mechanicals/cooling system/brakes etc, for me, need to be sorted preferably
Each to their own etc. You can only buy try
E91 335i’s (N54 & N55) are great cars & they have a strong following. A manual is especially rare & sought after.
There are actually a few for sale right now, the number for sale swollen by enterprising souls who are importing them from Japan to feed the demand & make some money, & they’re asking good prices for them. You don’t say how many miles your car has done, if its been kept stock, has FSH + paperwork, & how well specced it is - some folk rule out these cars without extras like xenons & pan roof.
Personally my approach to selling cars is the same as selling houses - if you want top dollar I would save them the hassle & get the work done, have it documented, keep all the paperwork etc. & get some great pics taken. If its a well specced & UK delivered car with reasonable miles, will be step up from most & you should sell it easily for a good price.
I know, because I recently sold my immaculate E91 335i
There are actually a few for sale right now, the number for sale swollen by enterprising souls who are importing them from Japan to feed the demand & make some money, & they’re asking good prices for them. You don’t say how many miles your car has done, if its been kept stock, has FSH + paperwork, & how well specced it is - some folk rule out these cars without extras like xenons & pan roof.
Personally my approach to selling cars is the same as selling houses - if you want top dollar I would save them the hassle & get the work done, have it documented, keep all the paperwork etc. & get some great pics taken. If its a well specced & UK delivered car with reasonable miles, will be step up from most & you should sell it easily for a good price.
I know, because I recently sold my immaculate E91 335i
Sorry, its 163k miles, I've had it for 13 years, full BMW history, all documented, a drawer full of receipts, it had the extended warranty until January of this year and all the usual suspect parts have been triggers broomed. Engine and drive line is stock, always has been, I've replaced the front grill to black. Its a great spec and a fab car but Ihave a genuine reason for selling.
Did you have the codes read when diagnosing the thermostat issue?
The symptoms sound very similar to the well know issue with the inlet and exhaust solenoids on the N54. Had the same problem on mine; it was sorted simply by removing and cleaning both solenoids, which are identical part numbers, and also swapping the inlet and exhaust units when refitting them.
It's a while ago now but iirc the issue is caused by low oil pressure within the system when warm. When worn there is a slight step between mating parts which increases friction; the lower oil pressure when the engine is warm isn't sufficient to operate the solenoids as required to operate the vanos, as needed when using wide open throttle, resulting in reduced power / limp until engine is restarted.
Hope that is all it is for you, pretty inexpensive fix even if you have to replace the solenoids rather than just clean them.
Fault codes are 2A82 for a sticking intake solenoid and 2A87 for a sticking exhaust solenoid. Video here regarding the issue and how to clean them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rkr79T6yHKk
If this isn't the issue then it may be the camshaft hook ring seal also mentioned in the video..........it can generate the same fault codes.
The symptoms sound very similar to the well know issue with the inlet and exhaust solenoids on the N54. Had the same problem on mine; it was sorted simply by removing and cleaning both solenoids, which are identical part numbers, and also swapping the inlet and exhaust units when refitting them.
It's a while ago now but iirc the issue is caused by low oil pressure within the system when warm. When worn there is a slight step between mating parts which increases friction; the lower oil pressure when the engine is warm isn't sufficient to operate the solenoids as required to operate the vanos, as needed when using wide open throttle, resulting in reduced power / limp until engine is restarted.
Hope that is all it is for you, pretty inexpensive fix even if you have to replace the solenoids rather than just clean them.
Fault codes are 2A82 for a sticking intake solenoid and 2A87 for a sticking exhaust solenoid. Video here regarding the issue and how to clean them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rkr79T6yHKk
If this isn't the issue then it may be the camshaft hook ring seal also mentioned in the video..........it can generate the same fault codes.
Edited by Crackie on Sunday 14th August 12:12
Touring442 said:
Rust on an E90 is still quite rare and any mention of scabby arches will send buyers running. Generally buyers don't want what they perceive to be a restoration project unless it's cheap.
Get the arches and the other thing done, and sell it for top money as a sorted car.
This. Get the arches and the other thing done, and sell it for top money as a sorted car.
One of the big improvements over the E46 is that the E9x cars are much more rust resistant. There are lots out that without rust so if I was in the market, I’d skip a rusty car even if it was comparatively rare.
I'd agree with the above. Having dealt with a perpetually rusty E46 the main reason I moved on to the E91 was the much better rust resistance, otherwise I prefer the E46 in many ways.
Pretty much any other mechanical issue I'd live with and sort myself, but rust is a big red flag (especially on rear arches which can't be easily replaced like the fronts) as I'd never be confident of permanently fixing it.
Pretty much any other mechanical issue I'd live with and sort myself, but rust is a big red flag (especially on rear arches which can't be easily replaced like the fronts) as I'd never be confident of permanently fixing it.
cheers guys, good background info, looks like without doubt sort the issues and fire up for sale.
Crackie, I didnt read the codes, I have access to diagnostic readers, I shall look at the results again with what you have said on mind. In the mean time, I have ordered a couple of solenoids, wont do any harm to replace them.
Cheers all.
Crackie, I didnt read the codes, I have access to diagnostic readers, I shall look at the results again with what you have said on mind. In the mean time, I have ordered a couple of solenoids, wont do any harm to replace them.
Cheers all.
Edited by megenzo on Sunday 14th August 20:51
There were only circa 50 E91 335i Manual’s made so they command strong money.
I sold two at the end of last year, a LCI converted 08 Crimson Red & Lemon Dakota one on M359 wheels and a well specced Space Grey & Auburn Dakota 09 LCI one. Both cars were around 140k and selling both returned £18,600.
For what it’s worth I think I sold the LCI car a tad cheap (£9600) and should have probably kept at least one of them.
I sold two at the end of last year, a LCI converted 08 Crimson Red & Lemon Dakota one on M359 wheels and a well specced Space Grey & Auburn Dakota 09 LCI one. Both cars were around 140k and selling both returned £18,600.
For what it’s worth I think I sold the LCI car a tad cheap (£9600) and should have probably kept at least one of them.
hi Scott,
I knew there weren't many UK ones and a few will have gone to the graveyard hence the strong prices. I tentatively offered it up for sale a couple of times but I was a bit scared I wouldn't like the newer car as much and I'd never get back into a good e91 335i 6MT so I bottled out. I retire soon so will have a bit of extra cash so will get myself an upgrade, something with a v8 while I still can.
I knew there weren't many UK ones and a few will have gone to the graveyard hence the strong prices. I tentatively offered it up for sale a couple of times but I was a bit scared I wouldn't like the newer car as much and I'd never get back into a good e91 335i 6MT so I bottled out. I retire soon so will have a bit of extra cash so will get myself an upgrade, something with a v8 while I still can.
pmorg4 said:
I'd agree with the above. Having dealt with a perpetually rusty E46 the main reason I moved on to the E91 was the much better rust resistance, otherwise I prefer the E46 in many ways.
Pretty much any other mechanical issue I'd live with and sort myself, but rust is a big red flag (especially on rear arches which can't be easily replaced like the fronts) as I'd never be confident of permanently fixing it.
I'd agree with what others have said too. Pretty much any other mechanical issue I'd live with and sort myself, but rust is a big red flag (especially on rear arches which can't be easily replaced like the fronts) as I'd never be confident of permanently fixing it.
My E46 325ti Compact was starting to get crusty which is why I moved on to E9* models.
But my Compact was much more entertaining!
These are great motorcars whether they are auto or 6MT, they really wear their miles well. Unfortunately I've only just got around to reading the codes as my mother was taken very ill. She's on the mend now so getting back to normality.
Codes I've dragged up are listed in my VANOS thread
Codes I've dragged up are listed in my VANOS thread
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